Machining a 2-Step Pulley for my Atlas Horizontal Milling Machine and Machining a Tapered Mandrel.

[@hopper1]

Glad to see another video from you. Nice work on that pulley.

[@jster1963]

Thank you so much!

[@specialks1953]

I have watched a large portion of your videos. I appreciate that you are doing things that you like and need. I also hope you keep up with video productions. It is easy to see that your dedication to detail is probably part of why you were a successful pilot. Thanks for sharing what you have shared and what you may share in the future. Kudos!

[@jster1963]

Thank you so much for the kind words! I hope to keep up with my videos, but I have so many irons in the fire. And thank you once again.....

[@jasonhull5712]

Wow. That worked out great man. I just came across your channel and I am impressed! Talented guy. I enjoyed the flight conversation as well. I’m from Ypsilanti Michigan but moved to Indiana about 16 yrs ago. Looking forward to the next project. 👍🏻

[@jster1963]

Ypsi? One of my best friends is from there! He lives in Tampa now. I'm in Cassopolis, Michigan now which is about 2 hours and 20 minutes northwest of Ypsi. And thank you so much for the kind words.....

[@sky173]

Nice work! I finally made that counter shaft (2-step) pulley for the same machine. The numbers you gave be were perfect. Unfortunately, other people on KZbin feel I own them something for that information, lol. Thankfully, that completed my machine rebuild and it's beautiful. I always appreciate the flying stories. I wish i could do it again, but age and health wont allow it. I hope to hear more soon. Keep them coming! Cheers.

[@jster1963]

Thank you so much! I don't understand why some people charge others for information. I'm just happy I can help. I did love flying, but it's nice to keep my feet on the ground and just tell stories. And thank you again.....

[@powaybob]

Educational and entertaining as usual. Thanks for your service.

[@jster1963]

Thank you Sir!

[@adamsheffield4704]

I’d be proud of that. Good job Sr. First time to your channel.

[@jster1963]

Thank you so much! I hope you come back....

[@cross13000]

Great work, well done.

[@jster1963]

Thank you so much.....

[@d62johnson]

Great video jster

[@jster1963]

Thank you so much Sir.....

[@pauldorman]

Armchair machinist here. Yep, removing the dross is very important, but seeing the depth of those pores I wonder whether or not you used any flux in your melt. My understanding is that flux would help bring impurities to the surface, including those which create voids through outgassing. Great to see more machining videos from you. You have a nice presentation style, and it is nice to see a channel featuring someone who is very much on their journey to journeyman, rather than someone who is already an accomplished machinist. In my view, both are equally worthy views for people who are just starting out their own machining adventure.

[@jster1963]

Thank you so much for the kind words! No, I didn't use flux or de-gaser for this pulley. I think it would have helped. By the way, I'm an "armchair-many things" LOL! So I totally get it. I may re-do this pulley again when time allows just to do it better. And thank you again.....

[@jimdean7335]

Your journey just keeps getting better. Whats up with the 618, need to get that little jewell tuned up, maybe a video on that….

[@jster1963]

I know! I love my little Atlas 618. I hope to adjust it and have it back on track soon. I think it just readjust the spindle pre-load. Anyway, thank you very much.....

[@RotarySMP]

Hi Jasper, Great to see that your back in the shop again.Moving house sure takes ages to get everything sorted doesn't it. Did you file a flat on the dog arms for the grub screw to act on, and give some resistance to rotation? Have you tried doing a casting using a real casting alloy? If you find an old gearbox housing or cylinder head, you will never go back to the pop cans. Remelting the swarf is also a recipe for terrible melts. The problem with aluminium is its atomic mass, is similar enough to oxygen, that the oxide doesn't either sink out or float off well. Charging your furnace with thin stock like pop cans or chips, means you have very high surface area (= oxide) to metal ratio. The result is a melt which is more like a margarita or slushy, with the oxide skins throughout the melt. There will always me some oxides in the melt. Do you have a tig welder? Use your argon bottle, and bubble some argon up through the melt for a minute or so before pouring does assist in floating out the oxides for skimming. If you start with material from industrial castings, you at least have a high volume to surface area, and also you get the alloy optimised for casting. Another great source for smaller castings is old hard drive frames. In your next video, please do yourself (and us) a favour, and show a clip of taking all of the pop cans, plus those foil wrapped corn cobs of chips to recycling, and coming home with a couple of automotive alloy castings and some hard drives. ... ARGHHH - kept watching, and you really did melt down those chips. :) That was hilarious. Request a level change to improve fuel efficiency, then hit the AB to impress the controller. Net fuel burn improvement for the flight = negative xxxx Lb's :)

[@jster1963]

Thank you so much! I did not file flats on the mandrel, but I will now. Thank you. I have not gone and got real aluminum. The reason I use cans is that is what I have. I've always planned on going to the scrapyard and getting "real" aluminum, but just haven't done it. Soon! I don't have oxygen to bubble through the molten metal, but I have tried borax for flux. As far as using the AB to climb and save gas...that really is funny cuz the AB uses a ton of gas! I only used it for a few seconds to get to the altitude. The rest of the time I cruised and saved. I wish I could go back in time and look at the numbers. I probably did lose gas, but I needed that altitude. And thank you again my friend.....

[@RotarySMP]

@@jster1963 Hi Jasper, You dont want to blow oxygen through a molten metal, that would just be a turbo fire oxidation event. (Although it is the industrial process to reduce castiron to steel). You bubble an inert gas through aluminium it to help separate the dissolved hydrogen, and lift the oxide skins. The solublity of hydrogen in Al rises dramatically with temp, so you don't want to overheat you melt any more then necessary for the specific pour. As your part was a thick chunky section, you can get away with a rather cold melt. I bought a short stick of graphite arcing rod off ebay (e.g #303679311334) and used the lathe to turn that into a sheath for a cheap K type thermocouple (Ebay #/153864186332), bodged up a handle from steel water pipe and mounted a temp display I also got off ebay (#203265625735). Having a thermometer I could stick in the molten metal and nailing the pouring temp is probably the single biggest improvement I made to my Al castings. Are you a member on the thehomefoundry.org? A lot of really helpful guys, way more experienced at casting then I am.

[@RotarySMP]

Oh, and two more bits of advice :) 1/ It is easier to cut wood than metal, so putting a bit of time into your pattern, you can get much closer to your net final part size. On a pulley, you only really need a machined hub and belt grooves. The goal would be that everything else would be as cast. 2/ Dump the soda cans. It is near pure Al, except of all that AlO, and the plastic coatings on it. Use real casting alloys. :) Do you follow Olfoundryman? www.youtube.com/@olfoundryman8418/videos Oh, and one more thing, dump the soda can idea :)

[@jster1963]

@@RotarySMP No O2! I would love to make a thermocouple for my pours, and someday I plan on it. And no I've never heard of thehomefoundry.org. I will look into it. Thank you for the excellent information!

[@jster1963]

@@RotarySMP S0 if I'm understanding you correctly, I think you're on the fence about using cans, LOL!! If I get the time, I may make this pulley again with all the tips I've received from this video. I truly thank you for taking the time to help! I will try to check out those resources you gave me. Thank you.....

[@PhilsProjects]

well you made it. bravo. so how many negative G's did you push to level off or did you roll it on its back?

[@jster1963]

Wow! It was one of those, LOL! A man that understands aerodynamics;-) And thank you very much.....

[@PhilsProjects]

@@jster1963 I understand a little, I have been flying with my brother and His 182 for a few years not, i understand a little bit about flying, Cheers mate and nice to see you producing videos again

[@jster1963]

@@PhilsProjects Thank you again and ask your brother about the rules on Aerobatic fly in controlled airspace ;-)

[@JTL1313]

A little spot putty and paint and no one will ever see the porosity. Love the stories.

[@jster1963]

Thick paint too, LOL. And thank you so much!

[@aceroadholder2185]

A hardened and ground 5/8" lathe arbor is only $22. At that price, I don't know if I'd bother making one.

[@FrancisoDoncona]

From where?

[@aceroadholder2185]

@@FrancisoDonconaThat's the price in the Travers Tool catalog on line.

[@jster1963]

I didn't know that. However, I like making some things just to get experience with my machines. And thank you.....

[@aceroadholder2185]

@@jster1963Yes, it is good to know how to make something. Then you have to decide if you want to make more of them. When making them by the box full, mandrels are rough machined, heat treated, and then finish ground in several seconds on a centerless grinder. Hardened and correctly ground mandrels may be pressed securely into the work (where ..wait for it... you would use an arbor press. As an side you make notice that very old arbor presses have a V groove in the base. This was to allow the press to be clamped to the end of the lathe bed so you could run production work more efficiently). This tight fit is very important when cutting gear teeth where slippage would spoil the work.

[@jster1963]

@@aceroadholder2185 Wow! I had no idea! Thank you so much for the information...