making an aluminium casting flask (modular flasks 9) I make V6.7 prototype aluminium modular flask!

[@JulianMakes]

I have released the Modular Flask v6.7 files (see description above). Also included are the STL's and the STEP files. I've also made a little nut hole cover plate, that will hopefully fit the nut holes if you don't want to use them (untested the fit though). There is also a link to the whole spin trap / surge trap gate system, including the extending bits :)

[@noviceartisan]

Before I jump onto printing the v6.8 files in a few days, thought I'd best ask, have you made any substantial changes to this magnificent project in the past year that I should wait on release? It'll take me a few weeks to get all this done :)

[@JulianMakes]

@@noviceartisan hi David! thanks so much! the only update since, is the 6.8 version - i mention it at 4:10 in the video (link in the description above) it's been ages but i think 6.8 was even thinner and had slots cut out (so no holes required to assemble). Also i have not cast 6.8 myself. Also i think it had follower pieces to make mould making easier (but maybe 6.7 has them too? sorry it's been a long time :p).

[@noviceartisan]

​@@JulianMakes Yeah, i'll be trialing the 6.8, as i like the sound of the improvements. I'm guessing nobody has given feedback on it yet! Well, I'll be doing it, just dependant on my kiln been able to get a silicone carbide crucible hot enough to pour the ally lol My 3kg furnace is far too tiny for the assembled parts, adn the unassembled parts aren't made for casting alone (which would be what I'd call perfect lol I like the idea of casting a few dozen smaller pieces, then jigsawing them to size for the cast, then taking it apart again to put away ;) )

[@JulianMakes]

@@noviceartisan awesome! a few people have sent me photos of thier completed flasks, please let me know how it goes! i should really do a follow up video and show them off, but i''m so busy right now with 'life' unnnggghh that i dont have time.

[@noviceartisan]

@@JulianMakes Yes, you should haha ! I hope life gives you some space to make a new video soon! ^_^

[@4rowlands]

Julian, I really enjoyed your videos. Being that you're so humble, let me tell you, you are amazing and awesome! Always giving credit to others for their help, designing, executing and sharing your files! I truly admire you. You're a good man. But, I don't think you'll sleep much tonight! You'll be too excited and more ideas will be popping in.

[@JulianMakes]

L R haha thank you so much for that kind comment, lol I’ve actually had a lovely few days off since, no casting and no KZbin! I’ll be back on it in a week or so. Thanks again

[@garygenerous8982]

Julian, the flask looks amazing. I woke my wife up with my cheering when I saw how it all went together so well. Thank you for bringing us on this amazing ride and while I am sad this chapter is over I can’t wait to see what you do next. I am sure it will also be amazing though I think this project will always have a special place in my heart. Keep up the awesome work!

[@JulianMakes]

Gary Generous thank you so much for your kind words Gary! I really appreciate it :)

[@moltenmetalborn8417]

That flask looks amazing great job!

[@JulianMakes]

Thanks, it works really well!

[@barthanes1]

Really cool series. Nice work

[@paulriggs42]

Your enthusiasm is fantastic, excellent job !

[@RoyalBard.1]

1 month, 10 vids, awesome result😀😀 and the best thing was how you learnt from mistakes and overcame them.

[@raven92562]

Thank you for all of your efforts to help speed up casting and permanent flask making. Looking forward to casting some. Modular parts have ben printed, not we just have to get the Aluminum ingots to melt and pour. Using aluminum cans to make 'biscuit-tin' ingots, then, once we feel we have enough, will make the flasks.

[@JulianMakes]

oooh how exciting! i used aluminium ingots from a supplier so i hope the can aluminium is good for you. Would love to know how it goes :)

[@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006]

These are things of beauty, nice work

[@natemclain]

The round holes and slots for the pins are done that way commercially as well. That’s standard procedure for traditional jolt/squeeze green sand molding. Check out snap flasks online and you will get a good idea of what commercial flasks look like. Snap flasks are used so you make the green sand mold and remove the aluminum snap flask and place an aluminum jacket on the mold to reinforce and back up the mold during pouring to prevent runout. I really enjoy your channel. You have me in stitches mate! So funny and your enthusiastic commentary keeps me coming back. 🙂🤙🏼

[@JulianMakes]

Nate McLain thank you so much Nate! For the kind comment and your advice, thanks :)

[@JointerMark]

Congratulations! That is a fantastic result! This has been an incredibly inspirational series. Thank you for doing this and thank-you greatly for posting your process!

[@natemclain]

LOL ohhh you little beauty!!! LOL You crack me up! Great job!!

[@crookedriver2079]

Julian, on next iteration of printing the drilling guide, make them twice as thick, and size the template holes to accept a _tranfer punch_ ! any size punch you find convenient. That way you don't have to try and locate the exact center of the template hole with a centerpunch -- the transfer punch does it for you. Just a thought.

[@MeltandCast]

Just had a quick flick through this video as it's very late. I'll watch the full video tomorrow. They look really really good mate, very impressed. You got there in the end, what a result !! Best wishes Andy 👍👍👍

[@JulianMakes]

MeltandCast thanks Andy! I’ve been having a couple of days off from KZbin and casting, it’s been lovely!!!

[@MeltandCast]

@@JulianMakes Me too, I've had terrible flu recently - wiped me out for nearly 3 weeks, hence no videos !!

[@JulianMakes]

Oooh horrid... get well soon mate, I had it a couple of weeks ago boooo :(

[@MeltandCast]

@@JulianMakes Yeah it's a nasty one isn't it ? Never had anything quite like it before. Feeling a lot better now though thanks, just gotta shift the darn cough... hehe 👍👍

[@Penofhell]

Hi Julian, been following the flasks development and it's been both so interesting and intertaining! You've done so well in explaining your though process, listening to others and implementing big changes while keeping the focus where it should be. Congrats! Might I suggest you releasing .STEP files beside the STLs? That would really be the cherry on top, as it would allow others to make their own modifications without having to toy with the STLs which is a real pain. Thanks for all the effort and sharing anyway!

[@JulianMakes]

John Hue hi John thank you so much! If I can get fusion to make step files I will do that too :)

[@Penofhell]

@@JulianMakes that'd be amazing. I'm sure Fusion can do that, STP/STEP is a standard exchange format for this kind of software, and it really much easier to work with than STLs, although STL is indeed needed for using directly on a slicer. You seem to be doing quite well on the CAD side as well, but just in case : I have over 20k hours on each Solidworks and Inventor and I'm getting into Fusion at home, so if you're ever stuck on something I'd be happy to help. That's u/Johnhue on reddit and from what's you've been saying I think I'll join that metal casting forum as well ;)

[@JulianMakes]

@@Penofhell yes it can i've just checked :) i'll def do that. I wonder where the best place to put these will be, i guess thingyverse. i'll do some research! cheers o/

[@ChatterontheWire]

Congrats on getting to this point! We're looking forward to the first time you ram a pattern up in it.

[@SJS826]

really awesome!

[@JulianMakes]

thank you so much :)

[@robinson-foundry]

Damn those look good!!

[@charliedoesit6708]

Hello, I do castings myself and I've always used wood flask but I have wanted to cast my own flask since I seen another youtuber made some from wood patterns and I've never gotten around to carving out some patterns, without giving my life story,, lol.... I watched your video the other day and was an awesome video and flask you've made. I wanted you to kno I've downloaded your patterns, (Thank you By the way) and am go in to try and cast the 6.8 untested version.. So I wanted to Thank you for designing those patterns the 6.7 & 6.8 got them both... enjoy and keep up the good work..

[@JulianMakes]

thanks so much Charlie! some have said the fingers are too tight for them (i assume it's different tollerances on their printers) and have found they can largely overcome this by snipping off some finger length :) please let me know how it goes! cheers :)

[@charliedoesit6708]

@@JulianMakes I sure will, looking forward to casting them and thanks for that input about the tight fit..

[@JulianMakes]

@@charliedoesit6708 aweosme! i've got a few pics of some awesome completed ones people have made, i should make an update video on this i think. Maybe i should cast the newer versions too :) thanks again!

[@charliedoesit6708]

Hello there, I have completed the prints of the 7 files in the 6.8 and I'm not sure how to send you the photo's, I'm not that KZbin savvy yet.. but I am planning on a short video of cast your flask design myslef and yes I think you can't go wrong by casting the 6.8. I'm sure you subs will love it... Thanks again

[@JCSalomon]

Adding clamping points can help when the flask is being used also, for the same reason people weight down flasks for large iron pours. Also, this method is easily extended to three-part flasks, with a cheek between cope and drag.

[@hemeoncn]

Well done.

[@WarGrade]

Thanks for the big UP Julian, Drill, the smaller the faster you spin the bugger! Once you get going you don't half get a lick on lol As the flask is not subject to vibration I don't think you need nyloc nuts let along lock tight too. Alu is not as weak as people think, besides, yor bols are putting it under compression and your not going to do any damage that way. once in use, put a little parting powder on you pin's it helps lube them! (I think Martin uses graphite powder). If you look under the table of your drill press, you will see a bolt, this is for tilting the table, I suspect it's just a wee bit out of square. I am SUPER CHUFFED for you mate, they look great.

[@TheEvanovitch]

Hey Julian, im not an casting expert by any means, but it might be worth a try casting the flasks upside down. By wich i mean dont add the feeder and riser, while making the mold, but cut them through the bottom half after opening the mold. This way i think your flasks will turn out better because then the handles will shrink instead of the flat inside

[@davidmpye1]

I'm getting there too! I have cast 4x 'short sides' with handle from my prints successfully, just need to set up and make the longer sides :-D Thanks for the STL files for the pouring hardware!

[@JulianMakes]

David Pye awesome!!!

[@natemclain]

FYI - typically commercial flask you only use a pin long enough for the job your need to make. If the pattern is short you use a shorter pin. A tall job that is 8” with a deep draw you change the pins to something longer so you don’t damage the mold while stripping it

[@charlescamen5225]

I suggest you keep the pins the length you have as this will help align the cope and drag over high components so that you pull them apart vertically. shorter pins may allow some sideways movement before you clear the patterns.

[@JulianMakes]

Yeah it’s a good idea :) thanks

[@stevejohn]

they look good

[@gwheyduke]

Very nice, I need to make some of those!

[@mamamheus7751]

It's not even 7am. I just woke, looked for the time on my tablet (alarm's not gone off yet. Can't see the clock, it's too far away lol), saw the notification aaaannnd turned this on 😂. Yay!!! Edit: Fantastic result! Considering this is your first aluminium project, it's worked a treat! And now, because I do this, I came up with a dumb idea lol. Working on the basic premise that I know very little about casting anything (wish my dad was still with us, he was a metallurgist and long-time steelworker, he'd be a brilliant brain to pick!), and because of the initials you managed to do before, I had a little, possible idea for future castings. Could you put a T & B (for top and bottom, or D & C for drag & cope of course!) and/or F & B (front and back) "built in" on maybe the central part? That way you'll know which way each one goes? Just a thought! I know it would add to the complications, but it would be a permanent, obvious "notification" for you. And is it possible to cast small holes where you'll need to drill in future, to act as bigger guides? 🤷 Btw, hope you're better soon :)

[@JulianMakes]

Thank you so much mam! Sorry it’s taken a awhile I’ve had a few days off from KZbin :) lovey ideas with the lettering, I did start with thinking I’d put in some words like modular flask or something. I could include some flat letters for people to print if they want to add them to the patterns (superglued on maybe), that might be better than having seperate designs of all the modules with letters and without, although now you’ve got me thinking... I could put a couple of tiny pinholes to locate letter plaques, I’ll have to have a think more, great idea :)

[@crookedriver2079]

It really is incredible ! I LOVE IT! AND AM LOOKING FORWARD TO THE NEXT INSTALLMENT ! Brilliant! I did mention a video or two back (part 6?) I have 110 lbs. of 6061 Aluminum waiting, to make the final version flasks.

[@JulianMakes]

Crooked River thank you so much crooked river!!! I’ll be releasing this version 6.7 design any day soon. It might be a while before I get time to test out version 6.8

[@crookedriver2079]

@@JulianMakes I'm not seeing anything but STLs in the thingiverse folders. It would be nice if you could release x_t file types and : (especially!) Fusion 360 file types so folks like me can make any small changes or modifications that they would like. Thank You!

[@RotarySMP]

You need to use the drill press pulley and speed up the spindle for the little pilot hole, and use some WD40 for lube. As cast the aluminium is very gummy.

[@JulianMakes]

RotarySMP good point I didn’t do that

[@smallcnclathes]

Hi Julian Pilot drill needed a lot more speed, 3000 rpm would have been good. If 3000 not available, the maximum you could muster.

[@johnhomer4509]

Great information and awesome work. I would buy one if you were to sell one?

[@tobhomott]

The flask looks awesome! And IMO the pins seem to be square enough for anything you would be likely to mold up in a flask that shallow. Printing out some followers so you don't have to cope down to the slanted ends every time as you mentioned is a great idea too. Great work! Is the flask big enough to mold up the short ends of the next version, with Wargrade's end pieces? 😀 Thanks for the shout-out too by the way, I'm glad you found my forum post helpful. I got the idea for the slotted bracket from seeing pictures of flasks used in commercial foundries that someone else had posted on the alloyavenue forums.

[@JulianMakes]

Thanks mate! And my pleasure on the mentions/links, is that what they are called... followers? I love it. Thanks again mate.

[@tobhomott]

@@JulianMakes a lot of these terms vary somewhat by region, but that's what I've heard them called before, presumably because they "follow" an irregular parting line.

[@rodneypickering8774]

Ok how much they go for. Looks good

[@JulianMakes]

the designs are free.

[@lawrencedeans1433]

Printed two 40mm modules and the fingers lifted from the bed and curled up, not your problem. I am trying again with a brim and it seems to be okay, so far, many thanks for the files.

[@JulianMakes]

oooh exciting Lawrence! keep me updated! i know a few people have sucessfully made a flask, you can do it! Are you using PLA? (you're prob all finished! sorry i didnt see this before now)

[@blitoris]

"I don't really know what I'm doing..." Do any of us? xD

[@JulianMakes]

Khane Betrayer haha cheers khane you are so right.

[@AndrewMurphy8383]

Here is a idea i have for the pin on the bottom drill a hole on the pin were cotter pin can fit threw just more reduent incase the nut fails @Julian HG

[@unperrier5998]

Instead of one pin on each side, how about a number of "teeth" every side of the top of the bottom bart (bear with me!) that bites/fit into the "holes" in the bottom of the top part. A bit like how lego fit, but in your case the contact is on the side between the two halves (top and bottom halves)

[@JulianMakes]

hi Un Perrier, i'm sorry i dont undertand, i'm not much good at complex descriptions without a picture, if you'd be happy to email me one, i'd love to see it. My email address is at my channel's 'about' page i think or contact? cheers!!!

[@stevehonour9668]

Must be over the moon lol

[@RotarySMP]

Hi Julian, I cast the first two flask parts. Sand was a bit dry so they are not a nice as yours. www.alloyavenue.com/vb/showthread.php?14118-Making-my-first-metal-flask-(modular-flask-idea)-giving-it-a-go!&p=214798&viewfull=1#post214798 Mark

[@OldIronShops]

R.p.m. looks to slow on the piolet drill that'd probably why it broke.

[@crookedriver2079]

more than likely it was inadvertent movement of the workpiece while using such a small drill, not rpm. Wouldn't happen most likely on a Bridgeport with workpiece secured firmly.

[@OldIronShops]

@@crookedriver2079 but he was not. He was using a drill press

[@AlexanderWright1]

If you are worried about the nylon lock nuts melting, try Aerotight nuts (Other brands available): www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/A2_Nut_Aerotight_UNCoarse.html