FBO Plate for Mopars!

[@Anthony-nw5zv]

Great video Joe, I needed you around when I was 22, it would have made things a lot easier for me.

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thanks brother!

[@thomasfisher2879]

Thanks for the tutorial. Installed an FBO plate today; diminished the off-idle stumble significantly!

[@JustMoparJoe]

Fantastic!

[@BigPaulsgarage-v9p]

Hey Joe, I have used the FBO plates several times in various engines. In my experience the plate slots are close to what they say they are but not exact. For instance the 10* slot may actually be 12*, etc. All in all they are so much easier than welding up the slot and then filing it open to get where you want to be. Great video.

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thanks for the info! Tall John has a video testing the plate on his machine. Definitely a nice piece, and thank you for the support!

[@318willrun]

I have the FBO plate inside my '77 van, they work great! Good idea putting he 360 in...

[@JustMoparJoe]

I gotta give it a go 318. Hoping to crack into the 7.90’s , but it may be a pipe dream.

[@318willrun]

@@JustMoparJoe You'll be ok. Light car, good gears, converter, you'll be there and maybe a little more...

[@davidcolegrove8818]

Hey sorry about the question I looked at the video again and saw that the info was in the very beginning and I hadn't caught that part thanks so much!

[@JustMoparJoe]

All good brother! If you have Facebook, send me a message through my Justmoparjoe Facebook page.

[@billsanchez2665]

Another good info video been wondering how to hook up the ignition Thanks for sharing I am ordering the fbo plate today

[@JustMoparJoe]

It’s a nice piece. Thanks Bill.

[@johnelliott7375]

As usual no nonsense getting it done and ready to go.

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thanks John!

[@BadTreeProductions]

360! Hell yeah dude. This summer is going to be a blast.

[@JustMoparJoe]

I prepped my cuda today for the engine. Cleaned and painted crossmember and steering box, installed shifter and trans is halfway in lol

[@BadTreeProductions]

@@JustMoparJoe I'm fabing up some bucket seat plates, then weld them in and hopefully get some interior going back in.

[@JustMoparJoe]

@@BadTreeProductions excellent! The last dart swinger I bought had seat bases made out of 2x4’s and were carpeted. I had no idea until I pulled the seat

[@BadTreeProductions]

@@JustMoparJoe no shit lol.

[@billsanchez2665]

Installing mine tomorrow thanks Joe!!!

[@JustMoparJoe]

Awesome Bill! Here’s another link if needed kzbin.info/www/bejne/naDbq5d6drqpsKc

[@keithhebert9334]

Wow you're all set you have probably have that going by the time I watch this video sure will be nice to see that one going you've made this an awesome bracket racer right

[@JustMoparJoe]

I hope so Keith! Prepped the car for install Monday 🤞🏻

[@johnwilburn]

Great video! That plate is such a good idea. I could see using it to measure one to weld up too.

[@JustMoparJoe]

For the weekend warrior, this might be the better choice. I like your idea for sure 👍🏼

[@deanjohnson2249]

Hey Joe. With that port job you did on those heads and that mild cam you put in there, I think in a quarter mile you should be in the 13s to High 12s in the quarter mile. Sounds like a winning combination. Just get that gear right in the back and you should do great in your 8th mile races. As usual great show.

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thanks Dean! I’m hoping to get it dialed in. Definitely will pick up time with the built 408. Someday lol

[@deanjohnson2249]

@@JustMoparJoe yeah I would just use it because you got it. when the 408 is ready it'll be ready. Right now you've got that 360 sitting there doing nothing may as well enjoy some track time with it.

[@JustMoparJoe]

@@deanjohnson2249 that’s how I see it! It’s just an old stock 360 with an rv cam if anyone asks 😂

[@deanjohnson2249]

@@JustMoparJoe 😂 ok 😂

[@JustMoparJoe]

@@deanjohnson2249 hope you’re well! I just had a big trip to Fife Lake Michigan. Hope you can check it out

[@terrybeck1581]

Hi Joe, wish you had covered the air gap between the pickup coil and the reluctant. I have a friend who says it doesn't matter and I am saying it does. I have always set mine at .008 with a brass feeler. Long story short, what.do you say? Thanks, keep up the great video's. Terry Beck

[@JustMoparJoe]

Very true! With the new fire core performance distributor, the owner told me it’s less crucial because of the higher power magnet used. In the older versions, I agree. It’s an important feature for sure

[@DuddiesAdventure]

Once again you show something I knew nothing about. Good deal! That motor sounds awesome!

[@JustMoparJoe]

Hope she performs well! This kit will do it

[@blakenorman4822]

From 12:20 on your timing light was out of view, so with your initial at 26 when you revved it up it went to 36? cause that fbo plate you put on restricted it to only getting 10 more degrees? when you first started it after putting the new distributor in it was only at 6, you rotated the distributor till it got to 26? sounded aaesome, thanks for video

[@JustMoparJoe]

I believe that’s correct, Blake. I like the 10 degree plate and their lightweight springs. I usually stay around 35 total.

[@johnnymeyer4814]

That have to 25 initial to get 35 with only the 10 slot used!!!

[@soonerlegendspodcast]

Joe when replacing the distributor in a 440 does the mushroom end or the pointed end of the rotor bug point toward #1 cylinder

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thanks for asking , Mike. It absolutely does not matter. I believe the factory service manual says the the smaller end does. I think that was for quick and easy factory timing, on an assembly line. You can pull the gear and drop it any way you want. As long as you pull the number one plug, stick your finger over the hole and turn it over, it will poot on your finger. Stop there and look at what plug it’s pointing at. There’s your number one.

[@UnfinishedProjectDartSport]

After using the’10 slot, what is the initial and total timing numbers?

[@JustMoparJoe]

I believe I ended up at 34 degrees full advance, initial was 24.

[@UnfinishedProjectDartSport]

@@JustMoparJoe Thanks, were you getting much kickback on the starter at *24?

[@JustMoparJoe]

@@UnfinishedProjectDartSport no sir. This engine is only 9.3/1. With a mini starter from the 90’s model trucks. Neve had an issue. 👍🏼

[@dbc105]

You got me confused, you started with a 22 initial and 32-34 final. then you said you wanted about 34 final but wanted to lower the intial to make it turn over a little easier, all makes sense. Then you put in the plate on the 10 degree slot, looks like you stopped it from reaching 34 if you lower your intial from where you started. I see the value of the video showing the install of the plate, just though I'm missing something. Also, have you ever looked at Speeduino? There is a small one, NO2C that uses an Arduino board and you can lock it all out and program with a laptop. The device is for FI but I've read a lot where people are using it for just timing control. Just thought it might be something you would be interested in. Great vid and thanks for the link, I'm going to check them out. DC

[@JustMoparJoe]

Sorry about the confusion. I have t heard of their stuff, but I do have a programmable MSD box that will work with a locked out factory Mopar distributor. That would allow me to set ignition timing in any rpm band for cruising or traction needs. It would also work for pulling some timing up top if I needed to slow down a bit for index racing.

[@dbc105]

@@JustMoparJoe I have a vintage road race bike I think I'm going to try one on and if it works good I may get one with a map sensor and try it on my RR. The biggest advantage of it is the low cost. Now, I see you have your 400 build started, the one I've been waiting on. Thanks Joe, DC

[@JustMoparJoe]

@@dbc105 thanks brother. Hope to pick up heads this week and get them installed. Won’t be long

[@davidcolegrove8818]

I'm glad I watched your video because I hadn't heard of this FBO plate kit before. Where can I get it and approximately what does it cost? I have a 68 Cuda and 2 Chalkengers a 70 and a 71 and a 70 Cuda I'm thinking of starting a channel showing the trials and tribulations of your common everyday bracket racer lol 😆 I live in a area with very poor wifi internet speeds and I'm afraid it would be a chore trying to upload my content. Thanks for this video it may save me time when changing curves on these cars

[@JustMoparJoe]

👍🏼. Sorry for the late response. Shoot me a message if you want to know more

[@paullittle2037]

hey joe, have you ever tried the rev-n-ator ignition box and distributor. they work real good i had one in my 68 roadrunner and it made a big difference on that 383 and the prices arent too bad if you ask me. maybe you can check them out

[@JustMoparJoe]

They are no longer available. I wanted one since I saw it in Mopar muscle mag. They went on back order and have never came back. Fbo is the best stock style option. Check out Simpson’s speed shop. He dyno tests the FBO versus several other Mopar boxes.

[@JeffLeblanc-xb7qe]

Is this the same idea we’re uncle tony welds his distributor he put a spot or two so it won’t move I guess

[@JustMoparJoe]

Yes sir. This is the cleaner alternative.

[@moparnut6286]

Nothing like playing with a spark in time using your hands to do the work instead of a keyboard or a touch screen that's why I love these old cars! there is susposed to be a small circlip holding the reluctor to the shaft remove and it pops off but being a cardone it may not have one ok no i looked again and no the circlip holds the too plate they controls the weights movemend the reluctor should be a press fit with roll pin for location oh well only human lol!

[@JustMoparJoe]

I was trying to get this one apart like usual. It was stuck! The last 2 I did were like you said. Hopefully this one has consistent ⚡️

[@MichaelJohnson-cm4wp]

This is how to get the clip out of there fairly easily..First, you have to drive that roll pin out on the bottom of the dist. to remove that plastic ring..Be careful, that plastic will break easily.. Remove the whole shaft out of the housing...Drill a 1/2 inch hole in your workbench..Set the shaft in the hole right side up so that you are looking at the clip..Reach below and start pulling the shaft downward..At the same time with a very fine pair of nettle nose pliers, reach in and spread the 2 ends of the clip open..Pulling down on the shaft will unhook the clip and you are done.. Putting it back in involves setting the clip on top of the shaft carefully square..With a 1/4 drive 5/16 socket, you push the socket down and it will cause the clip to snap back on.. Easy right??..Now put the distributor back together

[@JustMoparJoe]

@@MichaelJohnson-cm4wp I stopped buying plates and started buying firecore billet distributors. Many great reasons that I like them.

[@karlsracing8422]

I ran for 9 years with no ballast resistor never burned up the stock coil.

[@JustMoparJoe]

Definitely. Our racecars did the same. Never failed years in a row. That was with msd coil and chrome box.

[@MoparMan-ff8fb]

As always great video Joe 😎👍🏁 . If you ever need your distributor or distributors rebuilt properly and re done with NOS and or new made in america parts check out Joe's distributor repair on Facebook . he's a mopar guy and very knowledgeable and will build a stock unit or modify it to fit your modified engine/ vehicle. even the parts store units he will rebuild. he also rebuilds chevy distributors

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thanks brother! This one was a freebie from a guy so I figured I’d give it a try.

[@MoparMan-ff8fb]

@@JustMoparJoe that's cool no problem

[@JustMoparJoe]

I’ve heard of Joe’s before. Definitely well known.

[@gtdart970h]

Good video. Dude, get rid of that Edelbrock carburetor and put you a nice brawler750 on there.

[@JustMoparJoe]

That carb has been a good one. I do have the AED 750 that I just put on my black truck. I may switch it over and tune it for the engine.

[@MichaelJohnson-cm4wp]

That Chi-Com distributor has a screw down the center of it..A stock American made has the clip down the center..And that clip is nearly impossible to reach in there and remove..I guess that is why you showed doing this job on that particular distributor..I bought the plate and springs but they are useless till someone like you shows how to get that clip out of there!!

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thanks! I’ve got a special pair of pliers left from my dad to do that. I’ll try to get video of it sometime.

[@mikehannahs]

Am I understanding that this fbo plate doesn’t let the weights fly out past what degrees you set the holes to? I ported heads and put a four barrel intake and carb on my 318, dropped in a fbo plate at 14 and set my initial time at idle to 18 degrees and it falls flat on its face around 2500RPM almost if my secondary’s aren’t kicking in or something, do you have any ideas? It screams off idle until I hit that rpm or 45 mph ish.

[@JustMoparJoe]

You are correct on the plate. Depending on your cam, you may want to try the 10 degree slot. Also not sure on that hat springs you have. With that vacuum secondary carb, you might need to change the spring for it as well. Check out 318willrun on KZbin. He has several helpful tuning videos.

[@mikehannahs]

Thanks, I’m fighting covid now so I’m down and looking for everything I can, I love his channel too, between you and him and uncle Tony I’ve come a long way, I have the stock cam in this build, figured I’d save the aftermarket cam for my 360 build I’m fixing to start on after I make this 318 run right, I’ll try another spot on the fbo plate and maybe take out one fuel filter, I’m running two and thought maybe it’s slowing down the fuel to much, worth a shot, thanks man

[@JustMoparJoe]

@@mikehannahs awesome. Hope you’re feeling better soon. One filter should be enough if it’s a quality one. I’d try that first.

[@mikehannahs]

Thanks I’m on the mend today 😎 I’ll go ahead and pull one filter out

[@HFG]

Awesome 👍🏼👍🏼

[@JustMoparJoe]

It’s a nice piece. Fun to play around with and see what works best for your ride

[@HFG]

@@JustMoparJoe I'm going to talk to Hot Rod Jay about it. I'm not an expert with performance stuff, tbh.

[@thomasmoller6526]

Hey mopar Joe . Why you dont need a balast resistor?

[@JustMoparJoe]

Hey there! The engine will run without one. If you use it for short periods of time, you’ll be fine. But the FBO box is intended to not use one. That’s one of its great features.

[@thomasmoller6526]

@@JustMoparJoe Hey thanks for the answere. I was a little bit confused. All other guys say you need a balast resitor. The ecu will burn you when you drive it without. I have the Blaster 2 coil + stock electronic distributor + chrom yello ecu. So I would drive it in a 1968 newport 440 cui. Yesterday was the first start after engine swap and the engine starts perfect but the coil got very hot.

[@JustMoparJoe]

@@thomasmoller6526 it’s true. For my dads old racecar, his orange box lasted 6 years at the racetrack, making 1/8th Mile passes,burnouts, etc. It was never street driven.

[@thomasmoller6526]

Hey joe. Understand right?For daily drive balast resistor better?

[@JustMoparJoe]

@@thomasmoller6526 yes sir. It’s is necessary

[@mopardad3959]

What cfm carburator is that? Joe

[@JustMoparJoe]

That’s a 750 afb, that I had on my black truck. The 360 is .060 over that’s 9.5/1. I may even switch my AED over and get it tuned for the engine when it’s in the racecar.

[@mopardad3959]

Sounds good as it is with carter!!

[@TheProchargedmopar]

👍

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thanks brother!