JYE Tech DS0150 15001K from Banggood

JYE Tech DS0150 15001K
DSO-SHELL
DIY Digital Oscilloscope
Kit With Housing
Purchased from Banggod.com
www.banggood.com/Orignal-JYE-T...
Unbox 00:20
Step 1 02:43
Step 2 08:14
Step 3 15:00
Step 4 18:14
Step 5 19:54
Step 6 21:46
Demo 22:46
Music from KZbin Library
and
"Music: www.bensound.com/royalty-free-..."

[@colinsmith4185]

Built the kit today,very enjoyable,worked first time after construction,tested all ok,this is a very well thought out design and my regards go to the designer,I have not tested the upper frequency range but it will only be used for general checking of audio related projects,superb kit.

[@iFlyByWireless]

I’m using a Hakko FX-888 solder station ( or at least a good imitation of one). I set the temp to about 350c. The solder is 60/40 lead based. I used the HAKKO 191 Solder Iron Tip Digital Tester to calibrate the station. Solder tips are cheap and plentiful on ebay or the like... Good luck with the build.

[@JuanManuel123ify]

Fantástico trabajo amigo mío....muy buen vídeo demostrativo. Me gustaría saber que tal han sido los resultados y manejo del mismo. Un gran abrazo.... Great work, my friend .... very good demo video. I would like to know how they have been the results and management of it. A big hug....

[@GroupDenmark]

thx for the video, nice journey to have on hand while doing it oneself, as an rookie and firsttimer in this electronic DIY world. but my result was not up to standard-. i was a little in doubt at the ceramic caps and none of my multimeters goes down into the fx 1pf, i then used occams razor and concluded the two with 121 on them had to be the part where there is two as to (120pf) (C6 & C7) and the one with just 1 written on the cap was the 1pf (c4) and the one with 331 on the caps was likely the 300pf (c2) and lastly the 0.1uf was the one with written 104 on the caps the big one was the (c1). anyway at finish and testing, i set my bench psu to 9.2 and 108ma so it stay in constant voltage, and tested the test values.(v+8.15)(AV+6.74)(V- /-7,24) AV-/-5.66) and all the ones with cero was right, but my V4 was only +1.39 and V5 -0.95) the manyel says if the V4 is bad, one should look at V5 (where mine was close to correct) or look at bad soldering on the r13,r14,r15 resistors) can see any problem there either. (but was does the sentence bad, relates to, how "bad" does the V4 need to be before we charatise it bad? my main issue is that my rotary dial doesnt seem to work on the turning/dialaction when i have my analog board attached, without the analog board attached and just power attached, i can change values to some point by turning the dial, but when i attached the analog board, there turning input is dead, the dialclick switch does work. but no effect at all on the turning the knob and doesnt matter if i hold the click switch down, or try to select one of the first two buttons above.. annoying, and likely a mistake on the analog board that are tumbling the function.

[@GroupDenmark]

it was the soldering from the little knobrotary-board to the main board that where at fault, but after taking the soldering of, i notice that the main board was very profound to also loose the 4-tracepads if you use an solder-suction tool, so atm dont got any tracepads to attach the knobboard too, they are gone.. instead assumed that i could just take the rotary part out of the little board and attached it to the place in the main board where the pins and all actually fits perfectly, and then just have the annoyance of an high reaching rotary knob, but naahh after i have soldered it to the place on the main board, it does work the rotary knob, but there aint any reverse feature, of the 3 main direction (back and forvard and click) i onlu got forward and click and dont got enough electronic comprihention to actually sense how to proceeed and get the knob to go back.

[@Penfold8]

my square wave didn't come out. I checked all voltages and they were within parameters as stated on the sheet. It looks like I just have a DC line with little fluctuations of a square wave here and there. Any thoughts on how to fix this?.

[@Wicked_Core]

Thank you for excellent video. What exact soldering iron station do you using and what temperature set ? I'm asking because I've faced some problems soldering parts to ground. My iron on 275 deg.celsium instantly got cold and stick to pcb when I solderend elements to ground.

[@EscapeMCP]

I'm thinking you need more heat. That way you can get in and get out faster. Using less heat, you have to hold the iron on the pad for longer to get the solder to flow. This ends up transferring MORE heat to the component than when you use a hotter iron. Yes, I know, it seems back to front - more heat=cooler components, but I didn't make the rules! Your rhythm should be In > 2 seconds > out. If that doesn't work, then I'd opt for more of them degrees. Best of luck

[@macrolog]

you heat the component lead not the pcb trace

[@chopper680]

A nice kit but the old Heathkit were better

[@macrolog]

your not a very good solderer

[@iFlyByWireless]

Mac Carmona , Thanks for noticing...

[@mikehauk6079]

lol!