Unboxing a Chinese 1800 Watt Induction Heater

[@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk]

150W induction heater: kzbin.info/www/bejne/d2mpiIawm62afcU 1800W induction heater: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oJ6ki5ugoZ2MmM0 36V 2200W server power supply: kzbin.info/www/bejne/roOknYt5r9iMabM 40V 2000W laptop power supply: kzbin.info/www/bejne/a5qwd4yaebKZjtE 1800W IH 10 minute stress test: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rF63pHWCe9Vrr9E

[@johnruscigno5738]

I like the idea of mounting the work coil on the back side. Nice review.

[@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk]

Thanks! 👍

[@dalenassar9152]

THANKS. I am still online looking for information on the gate resistors (resistance and power rating) used in paralleling the MOSFETS. I just (a moment ago) found a high-voltage forum discussing these drivers...was that YOU?? I will return to it and look at the links and videos...didn't see much detail on paralleling-resistors (just a quick mention on "too small of a resistor value". I am prototyping such driver, but am held back by these darn "paralleling gate resistors". I ordered the 2500W driver yesterday, through Walmart!!! largely in part to investigate the gate-sharing resistors. I plan to use the Allegro "ACS" series current monitors to shut off any overcurrent in the DC supply batteries (I don't quite trust power supplies just yet). I know first-hand what a hassle it can be to blow those well buried mosfets on the Chinese PCB units.

[@edgeeffect]

If you treat stuff you get from China as "a kit of parts" .... the quality is not so bad ;) Good Apetor moment when you drink the beer.

[@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk]

I had to look up what "Apetor" was, I was not disappointed and subscribed. I really should remember to get a beer for every video.

[@rahanule]

Bought the same toy (70$) in the USA and it clearly needs readjustments, Cu heatsinks in first place, the Al ones are not ideal and are fixed ont the PCB - there is no need for this i think (unless the manufacturer imagined vibration of the MOSFET). Another consideration: no need of mica sheet between the heatsink and the back of the transistor, only thermal paste. With a proper supply, this artifact (!) will generate some heat into the coil; smelting non-ferrous metals will be, alas, possible only in conductive crucibles (e.g. graphite). It seems the frequency is somewhere to 2000 Hz. I'm interested in higher temperatures (more than 1600 degr. C) and I intend to use an alumina crucible; for this, the frequency must be way higher. It seems the power is not a decisive factor for the obtention of bigger temperatures, but the final frequency is. On the other hand, experimenting with different coils (tube diameter, coil diameter, number of spires etc) and different numbers of capacitors will sure be interesting, but I don't know about the risks implied ....... blowing some parts of the instalation :)))))))))) To enforce the conduction some Cu wire can be used on the main traces, after removing the solder on the PCB back.... in fact this HF generator must be rebuilded !!!!

[@Vladimir-hq1ne]

Cheers! It should be interesting to watch parts 2, 3 and 4 soon too!

[@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk]

Soon it will be, got next video ready tomorrow :)

[@dalenassar9152]

Hello, I would guess that the mosfets are paralled in in TWO's (there are effectively two mosfets on the PCB). I have searched far and wide on how, exactly, two are paralleled...I would certainly guess that the drains and sources' could be directly connected. However, are the GATES directly connected OR does each gate have a separate 'gate resistor' ????? This information would be extremely useful to me! GREAT VIDEO!! Thumbs up

[@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk]

Drain and Source are just paralleled. Each gate should have individual gate resistors!

[@dalenassar9152]

@@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk THANKS A TRILLION!! I was thinking that it may be better NOT to use the "wirewound" type resistors, as there are already so many parasitic oscillation problems with stray inductance combined with the mosfet Cgs, etc. characteristics.

[@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk]

@@dalenassar9152 yes. Use metal oxide

[@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk]

@@dalenassar9152 I have a gate drive calculator here kaizerpowerelectronics.dk/calculators/igbt-gate-drive-calculator/

[@dalenassar9152]

@@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk I had just ordered 5w 470ohm MF resistors AND some lower values from 470 to 100ohm...trying to get the gate waveform to get a faster risetime. Eventuality trying for a GIANT driver. I wonder, just high big of a ZVS driver is practical?? I've noticed that designs seem to have, approx, an additional paralleled mosfet per kW. I have considered IGBT's, but at 'first thought', worries about the Vce. I happen to have some HUGE brick IGBT's...the monsters!...for later... One thing that I never liked was how the IH caps are connected. I always make the parallel string thick semi-Litz wire, and ONLY run out two diagonally opposite-end terminal connections (one other type connection works, but too messy). This came from the days of designing pulse-cap banks for flashing giant laser flashlamps, it REALLY can make a difference here. In series with the huge air-core inductors tuned for critical damping, I can get a very nice clean pulse. In cases, even with 'lytics. I knew I had been doing this too long when I could actually hear the ideal discharge thru the lamp before looking at the scope...makes that special sound like a fast thump of a high-power silenced (TV) gunshot. Just watched your MMLP video, a part reminded me of a desperate search for a huge cheap ultra-high current dummy load (when working with supercaps). I had some success with a 20kg train-brake resistor...but NOT adjustable. That was solved when I tore apart a (flood-victim) Carbon-pile 500A automotive battery tester and pulled out the load unit with about a dozen stacked carbon(?) disc's that are slowly 'squeezed' together with a multi-turn knob to vary resistance. ADJUSTABLE FROM ~0 TO 500+ AMPS AND CHEAP (~$60 ebay in a nice box with analog meters). You can buy a new one and don't have to modify it...just use it's heavy wire and clamps, and have a nice battery tester too...I seem to be rambling...

[@Magneticitist]

I'm still torn on heat transfer compound maybe being oversold as always necessary. I'd think it would be great when you don't have a perfectly flush mating of collector pad and heatsink due to surface scratches etc. Otherwise I'd think it would just get in the way a little bit and just do a little better than any other compound that could possibly add more insulation between the metals.

[@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk]

There is no such thing as a flat metal surface, its all a pointy land scape of broken crystals, when you zoom in far enough. A very thin layer of heat tranfer compound fills out these groves. The metal surfaces on both components and heat sinks are extremely rough, seen in this perspective and the real contact surface could be a really small percentage of the total area.

[@jimfrank4800]

Thank you for the review!

[@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk]

power supply and test videos are coming soon :)

[@dolphinceaser2105]

Sir, where to buy power supply for this board

[@Made2hack]

The coil seems to be oddly attached. Should it not be horizontally parallel to the PCB? Thanks for sharing!

[@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk]

Coil position is all up to the application, you can turn it any way you want. This is just how the coil I got with the unit was formed. Thanks :)

[@unknown-ql1fk]

I have been using thos heater for about a year for,melting silver and gold in graphite crucibles and can say the heat transfer compound is not needed. I run mine for 15-20 mins at a time using a 50v supply drawing 30 amps and the fets never get more than warm

[@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk]

Thank you for sharing your experience with this kit. I would still add compound any day, its cheap and is an improvement if applied correctly.

[@rajnadi9033]

I have this zvs induction but not work please help me

[@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk]

Return to seller.

[@IPMan200]

Do you know what the resonance frequency? How much current does it run through the coil?

[@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/roiUiKd3pJl4aMk this would properly be close to it

[@jonm4467]

Is it dangerous to remove 1 or 2 capacitors to make the tank circuit have a higher resonant frequency?

[@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk]

What is the original resonant frequency and what would the frequency be at 1 or 2 capacitors removed? There is however more to it. When frequency goes up, so does the losses and with less capacitors in parallel to share the current load. Switching losses rises in the MOSFETs with frequency, so more heating is expected and better cooling of the MOSFETs is needed.

[@prakashrathore4163]

What price

[@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk]

Some 40$

[@brinkshows2720]

They don't use hollow copper pipes for water cooling. They use it because of the skin effect. Its a waste of material if you make a super thick copper pipe and then there is almost no current running throught the inner parts of the pipe. It is just useless cost.

[@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk]

Water cooling and skin effect is the two reasons to use hollow conductors, I wrote an article on that long ago kaizerpowerelectronics.dk/tesla-coils/drsstc-design-guide/busbar-and-primary-circuit/

[@blc6464]

Right now my money is on the beer working better than that unit Cant wait to see the rest of your vids

[@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk]

The beer was gone faster than the unit malfunction, it is still running!

[@johnalexander2349]

You countryman Stefan Gotteswinter would call it a Chinese induction heater kit.

[@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk]

If it the Stefan with a machinist channel, he is German, I am Danish :) I would only call it a kit if there was more self assembly like soldering.

[@johnalexander2349]

Shit, my mistake. Sorry. He considers tools to be kits if he has to disassemble and rebuild them. Still the cheapest way to acquire some things .

[@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk]

@@johnalexander2349 I get the kit joke now, good one :D

[@skynjaydensdaddy]

Mine came in a bubble wrap bag with a label on it, nothing more. Needless to say it was DOA.

[@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk]

Aww man, I hope you get your money back. I only got a 5$ discount for repairing it myself.

[@raydiofolk]

hey man, i am in my bed watching your video, at two a clock in the night, and you make me, no wors, you force me ,to get out of bed get dressed to get a pils!!! dont do that !

[@heinzhubbuch5167]

wtf

[@thrashingpanic]

@@heinzhubbuch5167 3:50 ;)

[@nicholaslombardo9696]

Am I able to attach wires running to coil in different location

[@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk]

Only over a very small distance, in the order of 10 centimetres, you add more inductance and resistance to the LC circuit with longer wires, so you would have a lower resonant frequency but also higher losses in your LC circuit. You have take into account that it is a high frequency, high voltage and high current circuit you want to extend, so be sure to choose a wire that is suitable for it. Flat band copper, litz wire or extending the copper coil tubing.

[@nicholaslombardo9696]

Kaizer Power Electronics ok thank you just didn’t want to do this and fry the mosfets

[@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk]

@@nicholaslombardo9696 You won't fry the MOSFETs, but you will lower the power output in the work coil, just be sure to check the new resonant frequency and higher losses from the wire you want to add.

[@nicholaslombardo9696]

Kaizer Power Electronics ok

[@aakasoto]

Why do you use euro?

[@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk]

Because I live in Denmark, part of Europe, its the most common currency to speak of here. Denmark has its own currency Kroner and on the other hand I never really deal on ebay in USD, mostly British pound and Euro.

[@aakasoto]

@@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk Strange you pay with euro and British pound. What site do you order from? When i buy from china i usually pay with USD. I am Swedish and convert Swedish Krona to USD. Where are your subscribers from? If most are from the blue countries in this image en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Eurozone_Internal.svg then it would make sense using euro. *If not then please consider using USD in you videos.*

[@josepht.jervisiii8279]

Sir could you build me one of these? Mounted to a piece of wood With a power supply , switch to the power supply, plug in and the necessary cooling hoses and pump? I could pay you whatever you think is reasonable? I need to create scaler waves with it to avoid electronic harassment I am enduring from a sociopathic neighor.

[@pa4tim]

The heatsinks are outside the airflow of the fans. This is really very bad designed and constructed.

[@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk]

It does however work quite well! At 1800W the heat sinks remained cooler tha my hand after 5 minutes of run-time and at 1500W they rained cold. Here is the 10 min stress test at 1500W: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rF63pHWCe9Vrr9E

[@dalenassar9152]

...and a subscribe!

[@Mausercolt]

Hallo, leider keine deutsche Anleitung, schade!

[@heinzhubbuch5167]

you said you get what you pay for ? you paid for but didn't get!