My UNTRACKED Milky Way editing workflow in 2021 - keeping it NATURAL and NOT OVERDONE

[@GusMcCrae01]

Very nice Milky Way processing work.

[@sianoshea]

Great video - always great to see how others process their images! Thank you ✨

[@DanYosua]

Subbed on the RF 16mm vid, came here next. I haven't watched many astro tutorials but this is the first I've seen that separates the stars, very cool. I think you hit a really nice pace/length in your vids!

[@kamilkp]

Thanks Dan!

[@anderslonn730]

Hallo Kamil, like your workflow very much. Think your way of edit this kind of shoots keep the natural look indeed, very helpful 🧡

[@kamilkp]

Thanks Anders, I appreciate the comment!

[@pich1337]

Great content Kamil!

[@kamilkp]

Thanks! Didn’t realize you are still a subscriber 😀

[@pich1337]

I am a day one subscriber. The Follower 0000001 :)

[@anthony_mungcal]

Thanks for Sharing your Workflow.

[@kamilkp]

You’re welcome!

[@stevenrobinsonpictures]

Kamil good tutorial. I was slightly weirded out with your blue tinged sky though as I know you are a clark vision fan. Appreciate you are astro modded here. I'd say because you are stacking, with a 24mm lens I'd drop down to 10 seconds. Main reason being is that you can with a big stack, and virtually eliminate star trailing even at pixel level and get better, rounder stars. Gotta love that sigma 24mm 1.4 art. Keep going, vids are great and I enjoy watching.

[@kamilkp]

Thanks Steven! Yeah I did a video about Roger Clark’s stuff but truth to be told I like a bit of blue in the sky. I’m pretty happy with how my Milky Way images turn out to look these days. You are probably right about the exposure time, 10 seconds would be better and maybe around 20 exposures to stack.

[@stevenrobinsonpictures]

@@kamilkp Yeh I'd give it a try. I do 10 max on 24mm on full frame and the stars come out better generally. Esp on a tracker. I know what you mean with the colours. I am sometime's in a quandry over it but to be honest I like the burnt orange look more. Some of your previous edits have blown my mind - the colours where great. Also, another thing to consider is, it differentiates your images from all the blue one's out there - but I do understand it is personal preference.

[@YAMNIKIN]

Kamil - Always sharing a detailed information on everything. Love this about you! Fan of your work and the way you have wide variety of topics in Astrophotography. This workflow initially looked simple..lol but then PS layers/groups came in where I got little confused. I don't have much experience with Photoshop so would you recommend any other video for me to go through so that the steps you followed during the PS editing process makes more sense to me. I do appreciate all your guidance. Thank you and keep sharing! Take care. Hoping to hear from you soon :)

[@YAMNIKIN]

Kamil - Is this workflow good for Milky Way images with no separate foreground shots? I will be stacking my images as mentioned in your tutorial but no foreground shot taken separately. I would like to try this workflow on those to see how the results come out to be, if I am able to follow all the steps in the Photoshop you described :). There are so many Milky way editing workflows online and I am confused as to which one to go with :( . Any advice would be appreciated!

[@travellingjournalist966]

Hi Kamil great tutorial as usual, do you know if there's a free trial for starry landscape stacker, thanks Jack

[@kamilkp]

I don’t think there is unfortunately

[@BurgerOosthuizen]

Good morning, thanks for your help! I am trying to decide whether to get a 400 mm lens or 600mm lens, they are both Nikon with aperture of 5.6, do you have any comments on this?

[@kamilkp]

Well, for what purpose? 😀

[@kamilkp]

Well, for what purpose are you planning on using them? 😀

[@southernexposure123]

First thing I noticed is your photos are oriented vertically. I can't get my camera and computer to work together that way. Everey time I rotate my camera to get a vertical shot the camera takes the picture vertically, but my computer always rotates the image to be oriented like a landscape photo. My vertically shot Milky Way image lays down horizontally. Can you tell me how I can get my camera and computer to show my images with the Milky Way to show up vertically on my computer screen? If it matters I'm shooting RAW. Thank you very much.

[@travellingjournalist966]

there should be a setting in your camera that says auto rotate portrait images the when you load them to your pc they should be upright, you can always rotate them on the pc

[@southernexposure123]

@@travellingjournalist966 OK Thank you. I'll do that. Based on setup advice from other astrophotographers I shut down that feature. Only now do I understand the reason. If the rotate feature is turned on some of the images taken during a photographic sesson will be oriented differently. That causes some of the images to not be usefl for that photographic session becaause RAW images won't rotate in the computer. At least that's the way my computer works. Thank you very much for the tip. Now I can make Milky Way Images with the camera oriented for portraits and have them to show up on my computer the way I intended.

[@kamilkp]

Yes exactly, you may end up with differently oriented images if you shoot e.g. straight up into zenith. But this is no big deal you can always rotate them in post one way or another

[@southernexposure123]

@@kamilkp Thank you.

[@edwarddebruyn8717]

Some more questions. For most of my landscape photography I’m using an Sony A7r4. But is it right to say that a 12mpix image from a Sony A7s has more than enough resolution for nighttime sky’s since otherwise we will use a star reducing workflow. And is it also right that the whole star eating problem is not a problem and largely exaggerated. Thank you for any response.

[@kamilkp]

I don’t see how star reduction would be related to the image resolution that you might wanna have. The thing is that stars are not that big but if you expose for long they will spill a bit into neighboring pixels so star reduction is a way to fix that phenomenon that happens in a camera

[@BurgerOosthuizen]

Star adventurer 2i

[@kamilkp]

With a 600mm you’re gonna have a huge challenge to point this where you want. Go for the 400mm

[@BurgerOosthuizen]

One last question, I already have a 300 mm prime lens, do you think I will gain much advantage with the 400 mm lens?

[@kamilkp]

@BurgerOosthuizen tbh I think that with an SA 2i the 300mm is better 😅

[@BurgerOosthuizen]

Ah, yes, for Astrophotography 😅

[@kamilkp]

What mount are you gonna put it on?

[@jrbfotocom]

cannot open starlet on my mac. they're all exe. files

[@kamilkp]

sourceforge.net/projects/starnet - there is an OSX version to download

[@echoauxgen]

To much work, one image in Lr using the different masks da dah!! If needed topaz denoise and gigapixel if a 12MP image!!! Use PhotoPills spot stars for NPF SS. It all can be done with a f/4 lens at 30s No fast glass needed.

[@ro3843]

Thank you. So sick of ridiculously overdone astrophotography. Is this photography or graphic design??