Ford 300 Inline 6 Engine Rebuild Part 7: Bottom End Gaskets and Seals

Time to get into the gaskets and seals - bottom end first. In this episode we deal with installing the timing cover, oil pump, and oil pan. We end with flipping the engine over, ready to install the head and accessories.
*Please remember, I am NOT a mechanic. I am a hobbyist, and so I may make mistakes in my process from time to time. Feel free to politely comment below. Please also do your own research before undertaking a project, and make sure to take proper safety precautions!*

[@brucesannino6181]

Old saying #218. "Oil and grease are cheaper than parts and labor." You have excellent work habits. A couple of assembly tricks I learned many years ago might be of interest to you. I accumulated a collection of various length bolts that I had cut the heads off. So I had a bunch of studs. When installing things like oil pans, timing covers, transmission pans and the like, after I'd cleaned the holes I would screw two or more of my studs in with my fingers. That would keep the gasket aligned and aline the mating quickly and perfectly. The technique is especially handy when the alignment is blind, as in water pumps with the engine and radiator still in the vehicle. Once I had a couple of the bolts started and snuged up I could unscrew my studs with my fingers. The other handy helper was, I had a bunch of firearm bore brushes from 22 to 45 ACP. The brushes are brass so I'd chuck them up in a drill and run them into the hole(s). Often I would finish cleaning the holes with the brushes and starting fluid. POOF! bone dry, no grease, no sparks. You do good work young man. Stay safe and keep in touch.

[@JeremyKamutzki]

Thanks for the tips! Those are both very good ones, and I can see immediate application for the mock studs! Thank you.

[@thefallenone7988]

Thanks for these videos because I just spun a bearing in my driveway Weighing my options of $275/3500 I'll go your way. But try to balance my own engine as best I can to the point of just checking it.

[@JeremyKamutzki]

Hope the rebuild goes well!

[@MasterMotoTv]

Awesome videos and describing everything perfectly!! 🙏

[@JeremyKamutzki]

Thanks!

[@logangould3081]

Good job completeing your rotating assembly it looks really good

[@JeremyKamutzki]

Thank you. It’s been working well for about 1500km so far, so I’m happy.

[@frankrizzo2157]

looks good am getting my 300 started soon after years parked

[@JeremyKamutzki]

Nice! Best of luck with your rebuild.

[@rdbii2882]

Great job so far Jeremy! I have just finished breaking down my I-6 and will be taking it to the shop to be dipped, fluxed, and surfaced. Any tips you can provide would be awesome.

[@JeremyKamutzki]

Hey, that’s great to hear! My tip at this stage would be to take your time with the work you’re doing, to ask the shop what THEY need (for example, what parts they want you to bring), and then also ask questions from them to be clear about what you’ll be getting back from them. Another item to think about is that the shop is good at checking surfaces for flatness - and it’s not uncommon for things like intake and exhaust manifolds to warp over time, especially on a long engine like this. I ended up having to take my manifolds back later on to have them resurface them. Might be worth bringing them now and doing it all in one go.

[@jeremys1976]

I’ve been waiting for this one! I just picked up a 77 f150 and I’m going to rebuild the 300. Your videos have inspired me haha. Quick question for you, what was that black sealant you smeared on the oil pan mating surface before the gasket went on?

[@JeremyKamutzki]

Glad to hear you’re following along! The black sealant was a permeated gasket maker. I don’t remember the exact type, but I believe it specified it was oil resistant and was for things like oil pans and valve covers. It helps the gasket stay in place while you position the part, and it also helps to fill holes/gaps in the mating surfaces that are now over 40 years old.

[@tommycrisman6067]

Do you have a link to the parts kit

[@JeremyKamutzki]

Great question. I did look into a parts kit, but it was a bit overwhelming, and there was limited availability as this work was completed right in the middle of the Covid supply chain crisis. I ended up letting the machine shop order all the parts for me, and they pieced together an individual kit. I suspect Summit or Rock Auto would have reasonable kits. You just need to know how much over/under your various components will be machined. I found it much easier to have a shop order for me. Cost a bit more, but I knew the parts would fit properly.