Ford 300 Inline 6 Engine Rebuild Part 8: Head and Manifolds

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Installing the head on an engine can be a daunting task - but with some research and planning, it’s very doable. In this video we install the head onto my 4.9L ford, and then we get the intake and exhaust manifolds installed as well. These are the last major steps before it’s time to get the engine into the truck!
*Please remember, I am NOT a mechanic. I am a hobbyist, and so I may make mistakes in my process from time to time. Feel free to politely comment below. Please also do your own research before undertaking a project, and make sure to take proper safety precautions!*

[@calvincrews3885]

The Ford 300 inline six cylinder engine has the best sound and fun to build

[@JeremyKamutzki]

It was certainly fun for me to build!

[@mattdonna9677]

That engine is why I bought a 1980 F150 short bed 6 years ago at an auction. 74,592 actual miles on it, garage kept.

[@JeremyKamutzki]

Wow, that’s amazingly low miles! Have you done much to it since purchasing?

[@bmxluiscom]

Que buenos videos. Me ayudaron bastante igual estoy en la reconstrucción de la mía. Con ayuda del manual y tus vídeos se facilita mucho. Saludos de Guanajuato México.

[@JeremyKamutzki]

Thank you for the comment. I am glad that the videos were helpful! Are you done your rebuild yet? What vehicle is it in?

[@jeremygalema8922]

Nice 👍 I got one going into my 1979 bronco

[@JeremyKamutzki]

Nice! Are you replacing an existing engine?

[@yeboscrebo4451]

Nice job!

[@JeremyKamutzki]

Thanks!

[@yeboscrebo4451]

If you notice the original washers were a two piece design - a thick washer with a convex top and a thin washer with a concave bottom. The thin washer sat on top of the thick washer and was designed to provide even clamping force between two uneven surfaces.

[@JeremyKamutzki]

Hey, thanks for your comment. Interesting that you note the original washers were in a pair - mine were not. When I purchased the truck, it had one thick washer (with convex top/concave bottom) per manifold bolt. So, perhaps someone before me did some work and removed the thin washer you speak of. In my case, I adapted these washers at the recommendation of several knowledgeable people on the 'FordSix Performance' and 'Ford Truck Enthusiasts' forums. I was generally happy with the double washer technique, though I did have some frustration with the larger of my new washers - they were thinner than expected, and did exhibit some flexion under proper torqueing. Anyway, it all seems to be holding still, so fingers crossed that it's good!

[@deadcarnahans1932]

These so called 'washers' went into scrap bucket. I never cared for this concept. They eventually come loose and exhaust gasses shoot down the side of the block. I machined steel pieces that have a step on the head side which matches the different flange thickness of the intake manifold and the header. Used a stud in every hole that I could with an extra jam nut. Loctite. Loctite. RTV blue on the intake port. RTV red on exhaust port.

[@jeremys1976]

Awsome job! I can't wait to watch the final results. Question for you on the pushrod length-- is there a way to know if your rods are too long before putting the head and rockers on?

[@JeremyKamutzki]

That’s a good question. I don’t actually know the answer, but my hunch would be that it is no, because if you need custom pushrods, you measure the length that you need with the head installed.

[@deadcarnahans1932]

Head needs to be on. This was the last thing I checked. Stock pushrods were way too short on mine. Smith Bros made custom length rods for me. Important to get this right the 1st time.

[@marcovazquez6146]

I have same engine i remove the pistons but rings need to replace and cramshaft bearings shoulbe installed standar size all the parts back on ty

[@JeremyKamutzki]

You should measure everything carefully, or have a machine shop measure it. If there is too much clearance you will need to do over or under sized bearings.

[@WilliamMunny-d8s]

did he mention all the block and head machining costs, if they were done?

[@JeremyKamutzki]

It was a bit of a side job for the machinist, so I didn't get an itemized cost unfortunately. Both items were indeed machined.

[@ZOOKA601]

Are all the lifters supposed to set flush when you drop them in? I see a few didn't go flush and a few of mine didn't fall flush either, wondering if that's normal.

[@JeremyKamutzki]

No. They are sitting on top of the camshaft lobes, which are arranged at different spots around the camshaft. They will not all sit flush at one time.

[@ariellongwood3862]

So did you set tdc and just torque them

[@JeremyKamutzki]

@ariellongwood3862 for my year engine, yes. They are pedestal style rockers that generally don’t require adjustment

[@FrankChesser]

What year is the motor ? I have the hydraulic lifters and its a different valve adjustment on it. My engine is a 77 do you know about the adjustment on them ? Thanks

[@JeremyKamutzki]

It’s a 1979. I do believe 1978 and 1979 are the only two years with non-adjustable rockers. In you case, you’ll likely need to use a feeler gauge to make sure there is enough gap between the valve stem and rocker tip when the engine is at TDC on compression stroke for each piston. There should actually be a bit of play between the valve and rockers, to ensure the valves COMPLETELY close.

[@deadcarnahans1932]

No, No, No.@@JeremyKamutzki

[@deadcarnahans1932]

None of these engines have adjustable lifter preload. 1977 has pressed in studs with a positive stop nut. Torque it down and hope it's right. 302s were like this and Comp Cams has a simple kit part # 4610-16. Makes it fully adjustable. Have not used it yet on 300 but planning on the attempt.

[@ronmichels7914]

what about setting the lash on the valves?

[@JeremyKamutzki]

That’s an excellent question. As far as my reading and understanding goes, my particular year 4.9L actually does not need the lash set. It is generally not adjustable, though I suppose you could perhaps find some sort of shim. There were a small subset of the 4.9L engines which I believe had ‘pedestal’ rockers, and you just torque your rocker arm nut down, and you’re good to go. It is interesting for sure. If you have other knowledge/info though, please let me know!

[@yeboscrebo4451]

@@JeremyKamutzki your rockers look exactly the same as other videos I see where they set the preload on the lifters. I’m confused

[@deadcarnahans1932]

@@yeboscrebo4451 1985 and up had pedestal bolt down rockers. Just like the earlier heads you torque them down and hope it's right. I had head machined for screw-in studs for adjustability. My head was millled. Block was decked. Custom Manley valves. Custom grind cam. All of this made the stock pushrods 0.400 too short!

[@jalendagosta8886]

What lubricants and oils did you use?

[@JeremyKamutzki]

Lucas oil stabilizer for assembly lube, and Lucas break in oil for the first 1000km

[@tomj16601]

Is that the same as the 4.9

[@JeremyKamutzki]

Yes, it's the exact same displacement. Generally the carbonated engines are referred to as '300 cubic inch' and the EFI ones as the 4.9L. There are small variations to the block and head, but generally most parts are interchangeable between them.

[@tomj16601]

Thanks

[@JeremyKamutzki]

@tomj16601 no problem!

[@FrankChesser]

What kind of pistons did you put in it ?

[@JeremyKamutzki]

Honestly, not actually sure! I believe they’re hypereutectic, but they’re just a stock shape/displacement piston. I’ll look into that for you.

[@claudiolujan8017]

Enginetech pistons...from Argentina..I have a 4.9 efi

[@jeremys1976]

Do you have a part number on those arp studs?

[@JeremyKamutzki]

Yep, for sure. It was the ARP 152-4001 6-Point Head Stud Kit

[@jeremys1976]

@@JeremyKamutzki awesome! Thanks man!

[@JeremyKamutzki]

@@jeremys1976 You’re welcome. I was really happy with them.

[@jesseschultz2041]

@@JeremyKamutzki Jeremy, love the videos, they are helping me so much with my old 77 truck. I think the part number you gave is for the ARP head studs, do you have the ARP number for the intake / exhaust studs??? I have not been able to come up with a part number. Thanks!!!!

[@JeremyKamutzki]

You’re correct that it’s for the head. I don’t have an arp number. I used McMaster carr. Studs: 94358A330, washers: 98025A133, 98025A034, 90850A200, lock nuts: 99291A240. Best of luck!