Kato Unitrack Switch Repair

What to do when an expensive Kato Unitrack turnout decides it's done! User error, of course, a bit of scenery glue gummed up the slide mechanism. Time to remove some scenery and the track and join the track gang in repairing the switch. This is a shorter video of what turned out to be a 2 hour ordeal, but in the end - a repaired and reliable Kato Unitrack #4 turnout is saved. Nothing on your layout should be temperamental. If it doesn't work correctly every time, you need to find out why for enjoyable, trouble free layout operation.

[@davestrains6816]

Great video. I had trouble with a 4 also but I think I damaged it when I was working on it. very informative video. Thanks for sharing. Dave

[@AlleghenyNorthern]

I've been there. Sometimes it's just time to get a new one. But you can at least say you gave it hell first.

[@mitchellbennis9236]

Hi, just wanted to tell you that I watched your video, I have 8 turn outs and most of them don’t work anymore. I’ve taken apart 3 so far, followed your procedure and between the glue and ballast, I have those 3 working again. If it wasn’t for your video I would have no clue what to do. Thanks 🙏

[@AlleghenyNorthern]

Glad you got them working!

[@whatsitaboutwithphilcraig6661]

Great tutorial and informative thanks for sharing 👍

[@mach37]

Arrrggh! You didn't show how to disassemble the point spacer! You jumped from investigating the problem, which is what I have, to 9:40 where the plastic parts are reassembled. I want to know how you disassembled it without destroying it!

[@AlleghenyNorthern]

so, just like all of the kato parts, they're just pressure fit together. if you take the back off using the screws you can grasp the top and bottom assembly and then gently pull them apart. They'll go right back together the same way. IF, in this is a big if, you somehow got them glued together during scenery - that's a lot more tricky but the process is the same. just be careful not to crack the part.

[@Vman7757]

Thank you for sharing. I looked at the broken switches. Not the same design in side. But mine are much much older. However? How the points are connected is the same. They are what is damaged. I wonder if Kato has replacement parts. Thank you for sharing. I will be contacting Kato USA on Monday.

[@AlleghenyNorthern]

It just so happened while trying to clean up the layout for guests I realized I had not one but two that were stuck! One cleaned up with the first trick and the other went for surgery. If you can't work the old parts back into shape, it might be time to just replace it. Unless you're like me and need to prove to yourself you can fix it, in which case I'd probably spend way more hours than it's worth tinkering until the damn thing worked! Good luck, hopefully you can report back with a success story, but don't feel too bad if a new #4 gets ordered either - might just save some sanity!

[@Vman7757]

@@AlleghenyNorthern Well I now use Fast Tracks switch jigs. It cost me around $5 a switch to make. And I can make as many as I need. And they preform well. That and flex track. It took Kato track to move me over. However I still have Kato track and still use it for testing out ideas on the layout. If I can't get the parts I need form Kato? Maybe I can 3D print them.

[@AlleghenyNorthern]

@@Vman7757 being able to move the track around is really a selling point. I sketch items out but sometimes after running it I find things I don't like. I like sectional track because i can run the line for a while, adjust it if needed, and then start scenery. I've never tried to hand-lay track but I have to admit, the results definitely look more prototypical - especially turnouts. 3D printing is always an option for hard to find parts. I'm impressed with the 3D printing capabilities available now.

[@jeffallen5698]

Don't quote me but I think I heard on a Mike Fifer video that you can use Kadee "grease-em" item no.231.. it is powered Graphite lubricant..it is for use on the couplers..I have used it on sticky switches with success.i squirt it in the 2 opening

[@AlleghenyNorthern]

i actually made a simple discovery that saved four of my turnouts. As it was, while ballasting glue got into the two small metal circles where the moving rails of the turnout are attached near the frog. By working these points with my fingers, i was able to free the mechanism up and they worked perfectly! Sometimes the simplest solution is the best.

[@kennyH20]

Great video thanks for sharing. What did you use to glue down the track prior to ballasting? Seems like it came up easy. Thanks

[@AlleghenyNorthern]

no glue. the track is simply laid down and the ballast holds it in place. my layout is permanent, so it's not getting jostled to train shows etc. the glued ballast is more than enough to hold track in alignment.

[@kennyH20]

@@AlleghenyNorthern Thank you

[@angelmora7755]

Hola amigo. También tengo algunos en mi trazado. Cometí el error que señalas. LE entró adhesivo al mecanismo. Los desarmé y limpié, la mayoría volvió a funcionar bien, sin embargo, uno o dos, se calentaban, lo que generaba fusión en el mecanismo trabándose. Los tuve que retirar el layout. Si tienes algún dato para repararlos, te lo agradeceré. Que líquido empleas para limpiarlos. Muchas gracias y feliz navidad,

[@AlleghenyNorthern]

Bien, trabaja conmigo Estoy usando un traductor de Google, así que me disculpo por cualquier error antes de tiempo. El líquido de limpieza es un limpiador de dispositivos electrónicos, puede usar casi cualquier cosa siempre que sea seguro para plástico. CRC hace el que estoy usando. No he tenido ningún problema con el sobrecalentamiento y existe la posibilidad de que el solenoide esté averiado. Si ese es el caso, la única forma es reemplazar ese componente. Probablemente sea mejor que reemplace todo el interruptor.

[@angelmora7755]

@@AlleghenyNorthern Muchas gracias por la pronto respuesta. Como verifico que sea el el selenoide? se puede testear o algo?? Muchas gracias y feliz navidad...

[@AlleghenyNorthern]

@@angelmora7755 Los solenoides de las máquinas de conmutación son de potencia momentánea, por lo que una sola ráfaga rápida de energía los activa hacia la izquierda o hacia la derecha en términos de los puntos de conmutación. Si se suministra energía constante a los solenoides, se calentarán y eventualmente se quemarán, lo que resultará en ninguna acción. Si acciona el interruptor con el control remoto y no se mueve, el solenoide está quemado. Si aún mueve los puntos del interruptor, pero se está calentando, revise el cableado, parece que de alguna manera pasa energía constante y querrá volver a cablearlo para que solo haya un breve contacto cuando lance el tiro electrónico. Las unidades Kato tienen sus propios interruptores remotos diseñados como plug-and-play con sus máquinas de interruptores. Estos proporcionarán energía de ráfaga momentánea para mover el interruptor. ¡Feliz Navidad!

[@angelmora7755]

@@AlleghenyNorthern Muchas gracias, lo revisaré. Un abrazo.

[@Nscalescenic]

Will this help take out straight piece so i can replace failed power feeder joiner

[@AlleghenyNorthern]

if there is a failed power feeder which is simply a brass contact strip, yes, you could carefully slide the rail out, repair the damaged contact, and then carefully slide the rail right back. be very careful not to damage the tie clips that hold the rail in place or your gauge will be out and the turnout will never work correctly.

[@Nscalescenic]

@@AlleghenyNorthern ended up just needing to loosen screw at the crossover to stop the shorting

[@Rustyrailhead]

Wish you had covered where that copper/steel wire connects to as mine doesn't throw well and the point doesn't sit well on the outside rail. But you just cut the video and came back with that process done. UGH

[@AlleghenyNorthern]

The issue is probably not your copper wire. That thing is very flexible, hardly has enough tensile strength to move the switch point. There is almost certainly something in one of the moving parts of the switch. Clean around the points with an electrical solvent, also, clean the opening where the point mechanism goes through the ballast into the switch machine below. Your problem is going to be there. Whatever you do, don't try to bend or reshape the point rails or the metal wire connector - that'll pretty much be the end of the switch if you do.

[@dougdunlap5889]

very interesting video. music makes it hard to listen to. many times less is more. thanks tho.

[@marcleslac2413]

3:46 is in part what Im dealing with

[@AlleghenyNorthern]

You have a piece of ballast or other scenery stuck. Try using a brush or a vacuum to make sure the area is free of junk. Then, using a track cleaning fluid on a Q-tip, clean the small circular metal attachment points the moving rails use. As a last resort, grab the rail, one at at time, directly on the moving metal circular attachment points and rotate them back and forth. Do this for both rails - it'll free up the moment if you got glue or other adhesive in there. That last one is aggressive, so use it as a last resort.

[@richharris9489]

Not a fan of the #4

[@AlleghenyNorthern]

Did not realize how much of a problem they were until i went through KZbin and saw how much people hated them. They're really not that terrible if you have them placed correctly with enough space to allow the loco's front trucks to straighten out. But i will admit, i have more problems with them than i do the #6.