Kawasaki W650 carburetor synchronization

[@mikerieck306]

A few years back I tuned a W650 with carbs and hit on a good combination. I went up 1 size on the main jet, shimmed the needle .020" and drilled out the idle mixture screw plugs. If I remember correctly I seated the mixture screws and backed them out 2.5 turns. It really woke the engine up. I really enjoyed riding that bike....it is light and is easy to toss into corners....it is a fun ride.

[@dirtyadventure8481]

I currently have my idle screws backed out 2.7/8 turns and thinking about changing the pilot jet to one size larger. The stock main jet seems to be ok for my riding style. I wonder if can just replace the pilot jet and not touch anything else ?

[@mikerieck306]

@@dirtyadventure8481 Sure....you can replace just the pilot jet. The fuel screw is effective up to 4 turns out but I don't recommend going over 3 as the idle screw spring begins to lose tension. You should try using the .020" shim under the needle. Dime City sells a pack of 12 or so for 4.50....many other people sell them as well. It really revved better. Those are the last of the carb bikes so they were jetted very lean to meet emissions. I

[@dirtyadventure8481]

@@mikerieck306 The reason why I was thinking about getting a bigger pilot jet alone is that I don’t feel that the bike is sluggish at above 4000rpm which is the range of the main jet. The problem I have is from 2500 to 4000 rpm which is a standard cruising range in the city. It feels real sluggish in that range and vibes are bad 3000 to 4000 rpm. That is the range of the pilot jet. I tried cranking up the idle screws but after 2.5/8th turns the effect is minimal on anything above 2500rpm which makes sense. I’m happy with 2.7/8th turns on the idle screws and I’m going to leave them alone concentrating on upgrading the pilot jets and see what happens. You’re right the factory settings 2.1/8th turns out are way too lean. I found that 2.5/8th is acceptable, but it takes a long time to warm up the engine and fuel consumption is high as you’re forced to open the throttle more while the choke is on. With the current setting of 2.7/8th I still need the choke to start from cold even in +19c weather, but I can safely turn off the choke after about a mile down the road and not stall. Anything below that just requires to leave the choke on for longer periods, but in the end when engine is warm it doesn’t matter much.

[@JamesDeVile]

Glad to see your meter is working backwards too - I was confused as thought it should move into the "normal" area but I guess we just ignore that...?

[@dirtyadventure8481]

Yes, these manometers are generic. When you measure pressure the arrow will move to the right. When you are measuring vacuum (opposite of pressure) the arrow moves in the opposite direction. The coloured markings on the dial we can ignore. We are after having the arrow to point at the same values.

[@JamesDeVile]

@@dirtyadventure8481 thank you! Really appreciate the explanation. Makes a lot of sense.

[@aleksandertesenkov1421]

It was very helpful

[@rogerthedodger5788]

Thank you very much for posting this video. I have just bought a W650 and love it! This is on my list of to do's. May i ask you a question? Its about the fuel tap and i just cant find the answer. and would appreciate your answer @ 3:02 is your fuel tap set to On or to Reserve? Thanks again.

[@dirtyadventure8481]

You’re welcome and your question reminds me to make a short video about this. I’ll post it shortly. It is hard to tell from this particular video because I moved the camera too quickly. In general, the tap’s square end is the pointer. Also take a look at my fuel tank video Winterization 1. I think I went over the petcock there too.

[@dirtyadventure8481]

Tip: I use the “trip 1” function on the dash to approximate how much gas is in the tank. I reset the meter on every full fill-up and put the petcock to the ON position. My bike gives me ~190km and then I have to switch to reserve. You have about 50km on reserve. You can switch to reserve while you’re riding, but it’s much safer to ether stop and switch or just fill up at the gas station.

[@briantremblay9157]

Hey there, so I just bought this same bike, the last owner made a mess of all the lines from the tank, I am new to dual carbs, I was wondering if you could help me out? the tank was rusted very bad, I had to pry the gas cap off it was so bad, I cleaned the tank to almost new, but not sure how to hook up all the gas and vac lines... Thanks for having this channel, I will never get rid of this bike. but I can't wait to get it started and hear it run and ride it for the first time.

[@dirtyadventure8481]

Good job on cleaning the tank. Your best bet is to download a service manual for the bike. In addition, you should check out the sub-assembly diagrams on spare parts websites like this for example: www.ronayers.com/oemparts/l/kaw/500b0766f870023ba4c1e7e2/2001-w650-ej650-a3-parts If you have concrete questions then leave comments under my videos or suggest a new topic for the video and I’ll show you the answers in the new video.

[@dirtyadventure8481]

In short, on the right side of the tank underneath you’ll have two lines of breather tubes. Any long tubes will do. On the left you have the vacuum operated petcock. The bottom L shaped metal tube is for the gas to come out into the carburetor. The smaller diafragm pipe is for a vacuum line that connects through a T shaped connector to the vacuum lines that I show in this video. Search for my video called “Carb Anatomy” and Winterization part 1 Petcock.

[@briantremblay9157]

@@dirtyadventure8481 I will look for those videos for sure!! and thank you kindly.. So the right side, I just leave unconnected to anything? My bike is set up with two aircones, I think I heard you say you have an air box? should I try to find the airbox? My tank is even painted the same as yours. I wish whoever painted the bottom end black had not done that! But I will work with what I have. I also was wondering if you source parts thru Partzilla?

[@briantremblay9157]

@@dirtyadventure8481 So I have never changed a gas sap before, I bought one off Ebay, and I don't think its the right one!! its too small lol. I thought it was simple to screws all done installed.. The ring in the center will not compresse and close right. Not sure if I am missing a step. I feel kinda dumb but this is all new to me. I am a dirt bike kinda guy. This is my first road bike.

[@dirtyadventure8481]

@@briantremblay9157 so on the right side under the tank, just attach 2 long rubber tubes. Look at the aforementioned service manual for instructions on how to route the hoses. They are at the back of the service manual. Don’t ride without those tubes because if fuel leaks out from there onto the hot motor you might have a fire problem. If someone removed the airbox and installed external air filters you’re stuck with those and default carb settings can only be used as a ballpark figures. Avoid rain when riding with those. I wouldn’t look for an airbox unless you want to go back to stock settings and ride in the rain. I’m shopping for parts on Japanese websites as I’m based in Canada and US exchange rate and Canadian import duties prevent me from shopping from US parts stores.

[@DiezelKat]

Дам совет, для лучшей синхронизации. Этого даже в инструкции нет. С левой стороны у вас есть "инерционный обогатитель", крышка на двух болтах. В нём есть клапан, который соединяет между собой два карбюратора. Из-за чего разрежение перед цилиндрами уравновешивается. Из-за чего невозможно точно настроить вакуум. Вроде давление одинаковое на вакуумметрах, а дроссельные заслонки - неравномерны. Поэтому на момент регулировки уберите пружину из "обогатителя" Клапан закроется и отсечёт один карбюратор от другого. И тогда настроите точно.

[@dirtyadventure8481]

Здорово! Спасибо большое.

[@DiezelKat]

@@dirtyadventure8481 Кстати, если просветите, для чего этот обогатитель нужен - буду премного благодарен. Это редкая штука на карбюраторах и внятного ответа никто не дал. При резком сбросе газа он кратковременно обогащает смесь. Из-за чего только хуже - хлопки в трубах из-за недожига.

[@dirtyadventure8481]

@@DiezelKat Насколько я понимаю, если выжать газ потом резко бросить ручку газа и резко выжать газ опять то произойдут некие рывки при управлении. Именно эти рывки этот клапан пытается сгладить давая маленький кусочек бензина.

[@DiezelKat]

@@dirtyadventure8481 kzbin.info/www/bejne/e2Wwi32gfMSnh5I Вот здесь показана работа похожего клапана. И тоже говорит, что он для того, чтоб не хлопало в трубе. Но по логике, обогащая смесь, наоборот создаёшь условия для хлопков - хлопает ведь переобогащённая смесь.

[@dirtyadventure8481]

@@DiezelKat Ну не всегда. Когда слишком бедная смесь то в трубе хлопает тоже. Если есть хлопки это означает что часть топлива неполностью сгорела в камере сгорания. Это может быть не только если в смеси слишком много топлива на единицу воздуха, но и когда слишком много воздуха на единицу топлива. Т.е. топливо не горит из-за того что смесь слишком бедная…. И взрывается в горячей трубе где условия для поджога более благоприятные из-за наличия там достаточно бензиновых паров из предыдущих недовзрывов.

[@VS-vo3rd]

Привет ! Значит нужно балансировать карбюратор для точного значения. Одним винтом, который находится внутри между двумя карбюратора ?

[@dirtyadventure8481]

Да. Если это не делать регулярно, то мотор будет барахлить и жрать бензин. Как только чувствуешь что потерял мощность проверь что воздушный фильтр чистый и нет вакуумных потерь (я сделаю следующее видео про это) и проверь балансировку карбов. Если все нормально, то скорее всего проблема в электричестве.

[@kealanmcateer9690]

How difficult to remove carbs , airbox difficult to remove from frame? Thanks