Keeping A KNIFE SHARP - What a DECADE of BIG GAME GUIDING Taught Me

Cliff shares his expertise on knife sharpening for hunting and camping applications. He discusses the challenges hunters face with dull knives in the field and offers practical solutions, including the concept of micro beveling. He also covers how to increase the longevity of your knife's edge in real-world hunting situations.
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Below you will find Amazon Affiliate links to products discussed or used in the video. I make a commission from your use of these links, but using the link will not affect the price you pay for any items.
Work Sharp Field Sharpener
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Kershaw Link Knife (Slightly updated model to the knife in the video)
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Pull Through Sharpener
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DMT Sharpening Paddles
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Ceramic Rod - The thicker one I mentioned. (Way to big for the backcountry)
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Kershaw Ultratek Compact Sharpening Rod
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Corona Tool Sharpener
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Victorinox Beef Skinner Knife (Skinning knife in thumbnail)
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Victorinox Boning Knife (I use this knife a lot on game animals)
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Victorinox Compact Ceramic Field Sharpener Mentioned
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00:00:31 The Hunter's Dilemma
00:01:25 The Danger of Using a Dull Knife
00:03:09 Replaceable Blade Knives
00:04:23 Factors Dulling Knives
00:09:49 Avoiding Uneven Sharpening
00:10:31 Proper Sharpening Techniques
00:12:49 Understanding Knife Sharpness
00:13:31 Stripping the Burr
00:15:42 Micro Beveling Knives
00:16:35 Honing Soft Steel Knives
00:18:52 Using Ceramic Rods for Micro Beveling
00:19:34 Benefits of the Work Sharp Field Sharpener
00:31:18 Final Knife Sharpening Process
#survival #survivalskills #archery #adventure #mountainman #pursuitwithcliff
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[@StrateOutdoors]

I don't have this problem because I can't even find animals. Chess not checkers gentlemen.

[@sstrongman1667]

I feel this, having these problems is a good thing, lol.

[@barneygo2010]

I’m the biggest JINX at our deer/ bear camp! All works out! Hahahahaha. They say that I dress like a hunter! LOL Peace Be The Journey!

[@gladeshunter8796]

You can find em nice and neat at the grocery store lol . That’s where I do all my fishing .

[@efficientinthefield]

Pin this comment. 🥳

[@patrioticspartan]

@@barneygo2010 thats rich! Ive yet to shoot a deer... plenty of attempts to see one. But i now have 2 black bears ive harvested lol i dont dress like a hunter 😂

[@DrWarman86]

technically disposable or replaceable blades were the first to be used. we got our razor blades and knives first for obsidian stone. we would take one stone then chip it to have flecks that were just large enough to be held. then when those would dull or more likely break we would chip off more. but sharpening a steel knife is a good talent to have.

[@darrensmall4313]

Thanks for the information and your time!

[@jamesdmyrick5809]

What kind of hunter has one knife or doesn't know how to sharpen it.

[@birdrs]

Strop, stropping (STRAW-ping).

[@krakentacticaledc]

As a knifemaker and having worked 17yrs in the commercial seafood industry cutting fish daily for hours. Fish cutters sharpen their knives every few fish every few minutes to maintain the edge filleting fish as you are cutting through the scales the majority of the time they don't have the luxury of time to sit as scale the fish like a casual fisherman would after a weekend fishing. Also a fish cutters knife cutting edge is not even on each side one side is say 10⁰ the other will be 18⁰ as a rough example because if it's a even cutting edge bevel whilst cutting at speed, the aim is to skin the fish with 1 pass if possible with as litle waste as possible. With a even cutting edge bevel you find the blade gets caught and will bite and you end up slicing through the skin part of the way through or you end up with alot of the flesh still remaining on the skin you removed. The uneven bevel actually gives you a sharper edge although not as pretty as it being symmetrical it allows the blade to glide through between the flesh and skin and not bite.

[@comfortablynumb9342]

Very interesting. Thanks. A few nights ago I had to use a really stiff big Buck Knife to clean a red drum/redfish because I forgot my knife and my buddy had the Buck. I figured it would destroy the fish. I was totally wrong. That thick blade was awesome for getting through the scales and I didn't lose a bit of meat on either side or when I skinned the filets. I was very surprised. I have always used a filet knife and now I want a stiffer fixed blade for fish like that. I fish for flounder all summer and the flexible knife is probably better for cutting off the meat, but the center cut and skinning might be better with a thicker blade. You have me wondering how to sharpen a knife like you described with different angles.

[@TheBudgetguy_K.T]

​@comfortablynumb9342 Just my thoughts I have no practical experience with multi angle edge but I'd reckon for practice you could buy a chisel ground knife and carefully work it up to whatever you want while the other side is already started at 20 or 18!?

[@comfortablynumb9342]

@@TheBudgetguy_K.T It should be possible to put 2 different angles with a Lanskey knife sharpening kit by using 2 different holes in the frame/guide part.

[@krakentacticaledc]

To be honest we never actually checked what degree the angles were as we would free hand sharpen so you don't have to be exact

[@edanpino-xt1ph]

Yeah, I’ve noticed this myself. My hunting knife has a 15 degree side and an 8 degree side and it works surprisingly well on both animals and wood

[@TeensierPython]

Nobody says pull through sharpeners don’t work. We just say they are trash. I use the work sharp guided field sharpener. Super cheap. Super fast. Super accurate. Use it a couple times when I’m field dressing. Highly highly recommend.

[@bockskarr6626]

Facts. The WSFS makes this long video pointless. I couldn't imagine doing this video unless it was requested 😂😂😂

[@timmyt964]

Also destroy your blade.

[@ChronicalsofAl]

I'm not carrying a full work sharp or lansky sharpening system afield. I will simply carry a 2nd or 3rd knife. If both my partner and I are carrying our primary blades and a backup - well I haven't killed a game animal that needed more than 4 blades to get through

[@TeensierPython]

@@ChronicalsofAl you’ve never seen the worksharp field sharpener then. It’s really small. Check it out. They are cheap. If you don’t like it you’re out maybe $30

[@ChronicalsofAl]

@@TeensierPython that's fair, I thought it was like a lansky

[@lapicker1010]

Holy crap…get to the point!

[@bansheep1]

I thought the explanation was excellent..

[@fancyhitchpin8675]

Ball danglege is an important factor to consider.

[@genin69]

this is also the same guy who doesnt hunt or guide with expensive knives, so he uses shit ass steel knives and complains that they dont keep an edge..

[@IcecalGamer]

​@@genin69 Even our shit-ass steels of today are orders of magnitude better than what the average was 100 years to 1000+ years ago. Don't diss the steel quality, even on budget knifes. A properly Sharpened shit-ass-steel knife can and Will outlast ANY top-steel knife (like s10v) that is half-assed sharpened and/or not properly stropped. IMO the OP seams more to me like the guy that buys a 200$+ tool and has no patience to learn and to sharpen it properly and complains that it dulls fast and is shit. Partially because lack of maintenance know-how, partly in fact BECAUSE higher grade steels (harder steels) are tougher to sharpen than budget knifes and being tougher to sharpen< takes more time < impatience kicks in... You get the point 👍

[@sammiches6859]

​@IcecalGamer You are missing a massive variable that has nothing to do with the ingredients and everything to do with the chef. Not all S10V is equal. Not all 420HC is equal either. Manufacturers that put good RND money into the tempering of each steel according to the knife's design are going to get a lot more out of even "sub-par" steels. This is why old steels like 1095 are still around. It's not just the steel that's come a long way, but metallurgy itself, which includes the manipulation of well-known metal compositions.

[@alphaomegasurvivalsupply6548]

Those pull thru sharpeners damage your edges because they take off metal parallel to your edge greatly weakening it, get a good sharp edge and strop it on leather as needed and it will stay sharp.

[@DinoNucci]

Correct

[@anonanonymous1988]

This ^ just sharpen correctly, then strop as needed. Carry a spare. 2 is 1.

[@reptileaustralia242]

absolutely correct thankyou 🤝👍

[@tolt1776]

You don't hunt.

[@alphaomegasurvivalsupply6548]

@tolt1776 what do you mean?

[@striderwolf687]

I honestly never have any issues with my knives. Always stays sharp the whole hunt. But I never end up getting a deer or elk.

[@chrisgunsandguitars1403]

I’ve had that same issue many times.

[@newrunner91]

😂

[@gladeshunter8796]

Got three decades of deer and hog hunting under my belt . I use two knives when I’m processing . One for gutting and one for skinning . I also switched over to CPM stainless steels for the excellent edge retention . Contrary to popular opinion they’re a breeze to sharpen with the correct sharpening tools .

[@Thekulprit92]

This is the correct advice, most modern steels will stay more than sharp enough to skin an animal

[@clintwestwood3539]

Why one just for gutting?

[@gladeshunter8796]

@@clintwestwood3539 I prefer a slightly longer heavier blade for splitting the sternum and gutting .

[@PeterPan-lo1ci]

Have you tried the EKA Swingblade?

[@sluggopixie11]

@@PeterPan-lo1ci I use one of those. Very handy.

[@Chasindinner]

The best method I have found is to not carry a knife and borrow yours. If I do get caught with my own knife, I use it as a throw flasher as soon as we see a cuda, then borrow yours

[@CliffGray]

Bwhaha that is a damn good strategy.

[@cainkopczynskie6296]

I always have either a ceramic rod or small diamond plate. Also a quality steel helps.

[@DinoNucci]

Correct

[@Mastermindyoung14]

dc3

[@kentcontreras4692]

If you can't break down an animal in the field without needing to sharpen it's probably one of three things. I wouldn't consider honing and sharpening to be synonymous. 1. Edge angle is too acute for the blade steel or the blade isn't hardened or harden-able. commercial stamped stainless, cheap Damascus and softer steel has no business running below 22 degrees. People make the mistake of expecting any metal to be able to handle an aggressive edge most mass produced knives come at 25 degrees because the carbide content is too low, they then sharpen it like a hardened blade and it dulls rapidly. cheap D2, 440c or better super steels can reliably hold 15-20 degrees. It's almost impossible to clean up a knife on just a stone or diamond plate and an inexperienced free-hand sharpener is more likely to mess up the blade worse field sharpening, a hard backed strop or ceramic hone is way more important for edge retention in the field since the bevel angle should already be set and the apex cleared before leaving the house. 3. You're in a rush and not letting the knife find it's way through soft tissue, when correctly angled the blade will find it's own path along hide and silverskin. You never want to force a high end knife steel along hard tissue as super steels and high hardness metals may shatter if they're used to pry joints or bones apart. Best of both world let the metal work for you. It's not a bad idea to have a separate knife for boning vs soft tissue to maximize how effective your blades at different jobs especially for beginners. A cheap tough blade like 1095, 420, AEB works well for areas that might chip or damage a high hardness blade; but a VG10, D2 , CM154, 390 steel will be much better for intricate work. This maximizes your efficiency and you'll be very unlikely to have to ever deal with a dull blade in the field.

[@reptileaustralia242]

Pull through damages knife edge . I know I sharpen knives for living and see the damage done. You only need to hone that knife in the field. Granted it was sharp to begin with.

[@5stardave]

When I was a meat cutter (butcher) at Safeway, we kept a 17 degree bevel and used a honing steel to realign the inperfections whenever there was the slightest resistance. Sharpening varied from a light touch up weekly to a full aggressive rebevel every couple months if there were nicks to remove.

[@craigoldsen1667]

FINALLY.....someone that knows what they are doing!👍👍👍👍

[@paulcox9366]

Only just started hunting. Moved to rural Australia a year ago. 6 weeks ago didn't own a hunting knife or even knew how to load a rifle. 6 weeks later 2 fallow does down. Shot, Gutted, skinned and butchered all by myself....feel fantastic but was very daunting. Takes me awhile but I'm learning how to keep knives sharp but it does take me awhile with a wet stone

[@michaelwaldeck7081]

I’ll save you some frustrations here in Australia. First don’t bother with wet stones. Spend a bit of money right up and get Sharpal ceramic stones 1000 and 6000. Get a half decent coarse stone from DMT. Learn to use the coarse stone first to get your angle management right and use a sharpel angle triangle to help you. The 1000 and 6000 will get it shaving sharp. Get a sharpening jig that lets you flip the knife. Use this to reprofile if you you make your edges too convex or get a chip. Do this and you will be set and in the end you will save a lot of money not buying junk for a total less than $400.

[@patgarrett3746]

That's great! I hope you have a long and awesome life there!

[@konnorwerth4906]

lol don’t listen to Michael just get good with the whetstone and that’s all you’ll need

[@MarkJSage]

Yeah... in a survival situation any old sharpening tool will work "good enough". But I'm not going to make it a habit of sharpening a $300 knife on $5 piece of junk.

[@jakef1977]

I personally carry 2 to 3 high quality knives and they usually get me through an animal in field conditions. I use a knife until the edge goes away then put that knife in my pack and grab another. When I get back to camp I have all my sharpening tools and work over the knives. It's always worked well for me but I've never guided.

[@redd8456]

I keep two Case Trappers in my pocket specifically for skinning. I only hunt whitetail though.

[@Thekulprit92]

​@redd8456 case steels are stuck in the 80s, get a nicer knife with better steel and you would only need to carry one

[@redrustyhill2]

It would best serve you to have a quality knife that will not go dull so fast. It is NOT quality knife if it goes dull halfway through a deer

[@patgarrett3746]

I do exactly the same thing. I always carry at least three knives in my hunting pack.

[@ianbruce6515]

Those pull through sharpeners work until they have removed enough steel that the blade edge is too thick and then it doesn't work worth a shit.

[@DJMoore-001]

After cutting meat for 15 years, Hunting for 40 years, It is not unreasonable to clean and skin more than one elk or deer with one knife, To many people think they know how to sharpen yet still have no idea how to maintain their edge. First who uses the blade to fully skin? Use your hand and skin while the animal is warm (fisting the hide off). Use a knife with a gut hook as well. Make your initial cuts with the gut hook. They hold an edge forever. But the only thing you really need is a quality set of stones to sharpen your knife. Norton tri stones work for every custom slaughter house, Grocery store, Big packing houses, All use them. It is the only system I use on hunting knives. Also edge angle, 22 degrees for boning, 25 for skinning. 25 for some reason handles the hair and dirt and doesn't dull as fast.

[@bornonthebattlefront4883]

So Some points Tbh, I couldn’t get through the video cause there is ALOT of rambling, and repetition 1. Outdoors55 did a video on pull through sharpeners, and steel rods They 100% destroy your blade, and do not hold an edge well, because THEY DO NOT WORK They create mini serrations, which does ACT like a sharpened blade, but because all of that serration is very very small, and based solely on burrs, it crumbles after just a little bit 2. I firmly believe that you have never used a knife with Vanadium or more then .7% of Carbon in the steel Idk what steel you use, but something like 20CV/M390 (same thing, just different manufacturers) or something lesser like CPM 154 or VG-10 Will cut through rope over 200 times before going dull You should be able to field dress a full elk, and still have a sharp knife You might run into a situation of trouble if you have to do 3 dressings in a day, but at that point, you should really spend 15 minutes between dressings to sharpen your knife ANYWAYS 3. I don’t believe you are putting on a good edge for your purposes, a 20 degree angle is better for some things over 12 degrees, and in yet other situations you want something even less aggressive at like 27 degrees, but if you try to cut through thick hide and hitting bones and such, you should have around 18-21 degree angle 4. I don’t think you are using the right types of knives for the situation A skinning knife with a hollow grind cannot be used as a butchering knife Something like a convex or scandi grind is gonna give you hell with skinning All things being equal, in a situation where you need to field sharpen, a double sided diamond plate and a leather strop, with about 15 minutes should get you from a 4/10 edge, to a 8.5-9/10 edge, even with “difficult” steels like m390 or s110v or M4 If you are running into a situation where you are constantly needing to sharpen your knife, then your edge is likely completely destroyed, and needs to be properly flattened, sharpened, honed, and zeroed This isn’t guess work anymore We have significant scientific white papers with evidence for all this D2 with a 300 grit & 600 grit stone and a leather strop, set at 19 degrees, with a proper 59-61HRC heat treat should be able to go through 2 elk before needing to be sharpened to cut through paper

[@RichardPoogerman]

Great video, been microbeveling for years but I'm pretty sure my Spyderco in K390 at 12 DPS could field dress a dinosaur.

[@MisterDeets]

I'm wondering what kind of knives these people are using. I think any knife made by Spyderco with their typically superb heat treat and an excellent blade steel like K390, S90V, S110V, Rex 45 etcetera would hold their edges well enough to fully process several deer. I think they are just using knives by manufacturers who don't appropriately heat treat their blades and they get subpar performance from the knives as a result.

[@clintwestwood3539]

@@MisterDeetsI recommend virtuovice on this. He tested most knife steels (hunting deers in Japan) and talked about this topic extensively.

[@capolot]

Seriously, my maxemet para 3 could do the same. Using cheap knives only get you so far.

[@rwstubbz]

​@@MisterDeets don't take only an s110v knife into process. You can use it for soft tissue forever, but it can chip on bones. In order to have such superb edge retention it has to be hardened past 60 hrc but then it becomes a bit chippy. Have something like s45vn for the work around bones and joints. It's easy to sharpen and still holds an edge forever.

[@DanielBrown-nb9zz]

Here is how you don't ever dull your blade... 1-Buy a nice overpriced scabbard or case. 2-Sharpen Knife. 3-Put knife in scabbard. 4-Never touch the knife again... The knife should stay sharp forever mostly... Yes I'm joking here because the idea that a tool will either never need sharpening or maintenance, is absurd. Also the quality of steel has the most to actually do with this process.

[@sepehryekebash]

Buddy.. I understand your frustration and you make a lot of good points but what you're forgetting to mention is that you're using a 30$ knife... With entry level steel... While skinning a moose... And you're expecting it to stay sharp... And blaming and insulting knife enthusiasts for your own ignorance and feeling self righteous about it Maybe try a rex 121 ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[@1mataleo1]

It’s not that those pull through sharpeners won’t put some type of working edge on a knife; the problem is that they ruin a knife, especially if used frequently. Using a pull through to put a temporary microbevel on the blade isn’t really what people are referring to when they say those sharpeners are useless. They mean that they are useless when used for actual sharpening. However, even if a pull through sharpener is only used for microbeveling , it sucks at that as well. A good microbevel should only be a hair more obtuse than the secondary bevel. Unless you measure the angle of the sharpener and then reprofile the knife to an edge angle a few degrees lower,, the microbevel will be too large. Even the carbide sharpener or ceramic rod are better than the pull through sharpener since you can at least control the angle. Though too aggressive to use on a good knife, the Corona carbide sharpener is great at one thing: striking a fire steel. I’ve tried many strikers, and it (Carbide sharpener) is hands down the best.

[@wizardofahhhs759]

Everything you said in this video is what I've been telling hunters/outdoorsmen for decades.....but they just don't listen, maybe you'll have better luck.

[@edanpino-xt1ph]

I disagree on the bit about that pull through being the best sharpener. I prefer Arkansas pocket stones myself, keep a soft one on me because a coarse edge is better than no edge

[@philliprobbins2170]

Carry a strop,strop it back to life. Easy button engage. If a true hunter can’t field service his blade he probably shouldn’t be hunting.

[@AC-ut8pl]

I typically carry 3 lightweight knives when I’m backpack hunting. One is a replaceable blade knife which I use for caping/ skinning cuts, one is specifically used on cuts going around joints and dirty areas, and the other is used for everything else. I do carry a small worksharp sharpener, but rarely have to use it in the field. I prefer to sharpen my blades and do a quality job back at camp.

[@TheLyingFigure]

This is exactly what I do too

[@jlogue751]

Big gamehunter guids don't get it, what a decade of knife YouTubing taught me

[@nicholaswilliams5587]

This why I carry 2. One for the hide then one for everything else once the hide is cut. The hair is hard on the edge and I like to sharpen at home when possible.

[@steveb1776]

The truly scary situation with changing Havalon blades,etc. is- your exhausted, your hands are wet and probably cold and your fumbling around with a “razor blade” in the snow mud, etc. No thank-you. How many of the Havalon type knives blades are lost, thrown down, etc.! Just “waiting” to slice someone. I always carry an extra knife and a diamond honing rod-two is one and one is none!

[@perfectweather]

I hunt occasionally, but I'm a farmer I butcher about a thousand pounds of meat a year. I have two knives made by a local knife maker. one with a 8inch blade and one that is about 3in. I sharpen on a whetstone and use a leather strop. Great video, spend the money on a good knife fellas

[@benchase7537]

What steel are they made from?

[@bodhisattvya]

Cliff Gray: What make & model is the folding knife with the green handle that you're holding in this video? It looks like a Kershaw, but I can't tell which model.

[@CliffGray]

It’s a kershaw knockout

[@peterparadis6788]

Pull throughs are terrible. Learn to use a stone and strop.

[@sbrysch95]

Good points. However, what you did not cover is convexed edges. I've got a Bark River in 3V that is wonderful to dress a deer with and I don't ever worry about the edge. I'll take it to sandpaper and a mouse pad about once a year at most. Normally, stropping brings the edge right back really quickly.

[@Oblivionwolf38]

honestly that's why I switched to a scandi grind for every use simply because its so easy to resharpen in the field. a cheap paddle sharpener and a stick to rip off the burr and away you go.

[@CliffGray]

I totally get it

[@supernoobsmith5718]

Carry a couple of knives, no big deal. I've never made a big deal out of sharpening. I use a cheap 2 sided Norton tool stone, and sharpen my knives like you would an axe, bringing the stone to the knife. That's for hunting and bushcraft knives. Kitchen knives I use more involved method for finer edge. People who try to make perfect fine edges for outdoor knives are always unhappy and looking for the next super steel.

[@alchemykitchen777]

I am a knife maker and a hunter. Most common problem I see, especially with wild boar is just the grease build up, good to keep some burlap scrap to clean blade frequently. My second go to is a leather strop. Soon as I feel it's not cutting optimal, a strop makes quick work. When i am skinning, processing in my barn, I have a cheap harbor freight 1" grinder with a leather stropping belt, that thing is my best friend to quickly get my knife back to scary sharp in seconds, so long as the blade is not too far gone and needs to get to a whetstone.

[@LeoDaniel-27]

Just wanted to shout out and say how helpful your videos have been. Believe it or not, I am a first time hunter at 61 years old. Applying for big game draws in the western states. Training hard and learning to prepare for this upcoming season. Awesome videos that are very helpful. Thanks

[@CliffGray]

Thanks man! Good luck

[@sheepdawg6946]

I respect the fact that you are starting something new and a challenge. I started riding a dirt bike at 54 as something my son wanted me to do. Been hunting big game for decades and at times, I feel like I don’t know anything. Good luck this season.

[@vlogsurfer]

Started 2 years ago, at 60. Best of luck to you.

[@ericm425]

I don't care about the heritage of resharpening a bloody knife. I just want to get the job done well. I carry multiple knives & replaceable blades

[@CliffGray]

that's awesome man. we all have different personalities... I like knowing how to sharpen and know that all I need is one knife.

[@michaelwaldeck7081]

A lot of your info is good but unfortunately your information on pull through sharpeners is just wrong. Watch videos that show you with a microscope what is actually happening and you will see that it creates a bur that seems sharp but quickly breaks down and leaves the working edge quite blunt and it does not create the bevel you need. This point was made for sharpening during the video but not for pull through.

[@CliffGray]

softer metal knives, they work well. Harder steel, generally more expensive knives, they will sharpen the knife to a point, i.e. they will make a really dull knife, usable. A lot of the microscopic images in the videos you see are comparing edges right off the whetstone/strop versus a pull through sharpener... obviously they are going to look different. A $4 pull through sharpener edge is going to be more "rugged" then a super fine whetstone finish. On the burr front, yes you should remove the burr regardless of how you sharpen.

[@abandonedotter4270]

I swtiched to using the Havalon system. Replaceable razors. Quick, inexpensive, done.

[@michaelsubi]

City slickers use replaceable blades

[@jimathybindlenim6359]

Not a single youtube knife guy said the pull through sharpeners don't work. Not a single one

[@anonanonymous1988]

They do work, they just create a weak edge. It makes grooves parallel to the edge instead of aligned towards the edge.

[@michaelfredieu-ec6we]

I feel like much of this is essentially understanding profiling, sharpening, polishing and honing. They are all different steps that accomplish different things.

[@philipheileson9720]

One of the absolute worst things that you can do to a sharp blade is cut from the outside in. I found that by cutting from the inside out I can get through an entire animal without dulling the blade. Small change with a huge improvement.

[@maxnemo1643]

Could someone tell me what that orange thing was that Cliff said was the best sharpener? I’d like one of those

[@bockskarr6626]

Idk I'm tapping out before this goes any further. Work sharp field sharpener works like a charm without pull thru plus there's many more this is starting off weird 😅

[@robertlennie7466]

Of course, you could just carry more than one knife and sharpen them when you get home.

[@qsikbk1]

One word; Virtuovice

[@HalfInsaneOutdoorGuy]

It'd be swell if knife steels and manufacturers wouldn't keep using 50+ year old steel, and it'd be equally as well if super steels like the CPM steels weren't so so damned over priced.

[@ericjohnson8001]

When I was in poultry processing I went to the tool crib and traded my deboning or whatever knfe about every 3000 to 4000 chickens or roughly every 3 hours. We ran about 25-26 birds per minute. The maximum number by law was 23/minute but the company didn't exactly care about rules. It was the hell!!! The pain from RMI repetitive motion injuries- was unbearable. At night I would wake up with my hands literally feeling like they were on fire while being crushed in a vise. They would lock up in a claw position and stay that way for hours.

[@seagray5727]

😮

[@TimothyIrwin-n7c]

Ok here’s a plan I don’t see discussed as an option in the field… bring several knives sharpened so when you feel a blade loosing its edge you can easily just grab another knife with a perfectly sharp edge! I grew up as the Son of a butcher so having sharp knives to work with has always been a topic of discussion! Why sharpen in the field when you can just have additional tools available?

[@CliffGray]

Why not ever sharpen… just use a replaceable blade knife? It’s just personal preference. I think knowing how to quickly sharpen a knife is a good skill, limits gear, limits cleanup.

[@mikemelina7395]

A buddy had the Worksharp up at camp this past Nov., I liked it and forgot what it was called, thanks to you reminding me, I just ordered one from your link, I hope you made a couple cents on the sale and thanks.

[@simonsparks5738]

Hoooray and thank you Cliff. Outdoors is one environment where sharp knives are essential , though knives are used a lot indoors as well for a multitude of tasks. So if a man can't sharpen a regular knife blade , there's a fundamental flaw in his most basic of skill sets. Greetings from South Africa.

[@CliffGray]

thanks!

[@Gillespie91]

Idk what type of knife you are using to field dress but my TJ Schwartz overland sport in magnacut steel I've never had to stop and resharpen. I've skinned and processed entire alligators,white tails, and hogs with it. Also I'm in SC and never had the money or opportunity to kill/ process a elk or moose or that type of big game. But I've tried several knives before including my MKC and alligator skin would destroy all of them in minutes except my Schwartz overland sport. I would spend twice the money to buy one again if I had to knowing what I do now.

[@BeepTalford-nu8mm]

Use a longer blade. How much work to you think you can actually do with a 3 inch blade? Use a six inch properly shaped hunting knife. I recommend a proper clip point with a blade that is more narrow.

[@vlogsurfer]

Great video! I've been working on my knife sharpening skills for a couple of years now, and you touched on plenty that i hadn't thought about before. To the "get to the point" comment, i would say, shut up and pay attention! You might just learn something here.

[@DaryooshF.Sh.P-vq6mu]

Dressing and butchering big games often leads to fat, tissues, silver sims cover very edge of blade every few minutes. It’s not dull, you should clean the blade with some steel rod or a rack or towel or even your butt once every couple of minutes.

[@BeepTalford-nu8mm]

I just take a 6 inch pocket strop board with diamond fluid on it. It weighs a couple ounces and will bring an edge back super easy. I think you are over thinking all of this. I completely field quarter and bone my deer and pack them out of the woods.

[@chrishenry5945]

A knife with high quality steel especially one made by a custom knife maker (Erickson Knife Works)is worth its weight in gold. Make sure it’s sharp before you go in the field. Have a honing steel and a ceramic rod. Use the part of the blade closest to handle to cut that dirty hair around the legs. When you have to cut the skin get under it and cut up towards the hair not down through the hair.

[@DinoNucci]

Correct

[@michaeljust3577]

Upgrade your hunting knife steel to something better than 420HC. Something like S30V, S35VN, S45VN or similar will easily stay sharp for an entire elk or 2 or 3. Now these steels aren’t magic. As you point out, being sloppy around the joints will be a problem . Also don’t try to open the rib cage or pelvic bone on a deer with your blade. Finally, I totally agree with going into the field with a sharp knife.

[@cabochris100]

Previous hunting knife vids, you suggested 3 inch blades, like your little Buck knife. In this intro, you're using big-ass knives! That's what I thought and will forget dinky hunting knives😅

[@nafzgerforge349]

Balls, Biceps, and Bevels. Asymmetry in Nature. I enjoyed your TED talk! 😂

[@dougclarke4540]

I can’t comment on Elk, or western style hunting. I’ll probably never get the opportunity either as it is very expensive, and at my age, opportunities are dwindling. I do hunt the Northeast and hunt whitetail deer. I also make knives, however I don’t consider myself a “knife nerd”. I can say that I use my handmade knives for my hunting purposes, and I can field dress, skin, and butcher a whitetail buck with one of my knives, without having to sharpen it. And, it is not a danger, or an accident waiting to happen. I’ve had customers tell me that they’ve been able to do multiple deer without having to sharpen their knife. I guess I get the point you’re trying to make, but I think you’ve gone about it in the wrong way. Insulting part of your subscribers is not a great way to go, and kinda irresponsible if you’re trying to build a channel.

[@wswillett]

Outdoor Edge kicks the shit out of these ridiculously expensive knives....and as a back up, use a Buck Knife

[@lyonknives1784]

Well us pro's.... Wait for it.... Know to carry a sharpener. The end.

[@michaelogden5093]

"Community"... I'm getting sick of that word. Non-relative rant over.

[@tyscam]

Everyone should check out Outdoors55's recent videos. His macro photos are game changing. I will never use a pull through sharpener ever again for example.

[@kadmow]

(or just for a butcher breaking a carcase - the steel in the scabbard or on the belt is handier than the back-room sharpening stones. Maybe a rigid strop is incredibly useful too - but al that fat and gore impregnating the leather can't be good. - Appropriate tools for the knife steel is important. Simply going to a "$300" knife, doesn't the better hunter make.. ) All ceramic is harder than the knife you have in your back pocket, so yes it will remove metal. Separating joints, learn the anatomy and cut the ligaments - the joints basically "fall apart" then... ha ha, if a blade is "accidentally" sharpened to a (near) single bevel - the angle will be approaching half that which may be needed (unless you intended to do it - at 25-30 degrees (or whatever the total edge angle you need for a single bevel, is.) ) - sharp, but weak. Users must realise a working knife is a consumable tool, not a multigenerational heirloom.

[@justified_edc]

Nobody is saying pull through sharpeners don’t work, they’re saying they suck and they remove way too much material for the edge you get

Actually if you’ve ever used a flake of flint to cape a deer you will know that it keeps a sharp edge longer than or at least as long as the best steels! Quite simply whatever knife you have you need to know how to keep it sharp in the field and that skill comes with practice.

[@jujimbo]

I have a smal medium/coarse stone and a lansky dogbone ceramic rod in my pocket when hunting, but almost never need to shapen knife during gutting, has taken out deer, skinned and take of head and legs with same knife, I use the same guideline as you tog Keep blade sharp longer, greetings from Sweden.

[@danlaclair01]

I'm not pro by any means but why not just carry a ceramic honing rod. I seriously doubt breaking down an animal will require sharpening. You just need to align the bevel a couple times with a rod.

[@woodworkerroyer8497]

Knife steel. Get a decent quality butcher knife with a steel that takes an edge and is tough, then get a Frederick Dick knife steel. Carry a second knife as well. Problem solved. You have a second knife to get it done if needed, and you have a reliable way to get an edge back on the knife that WON'T destroy the edge that's on it, and won't become a biohazard with guts and goo in crevices you can't even get into.

Whatever type of grind you have when keeping a knife sharp out in the field you will always end up with a convex edge.

[@5shotsr611]

18° is way to fine. I'd suggest Nothing less than 20° And for the steel I'd go with a performance steel . This guy just likes to hear himself talk

[@itypefaster]

Bottom line up front - TLDW So I was hear to see what you had to say sharpening a knife, but you have spent so much time rambeling about still knives I'm out and probably will avoid your videos in the future.

[@brandyhouston2105]

Knife dorkary , now I know whats my problem..lol thanks doc.😊😊😅

[@centerimpact]

Comparing your balls to a knife edge lol pretty sure that’s the one and only analogy haha

[@TheGuidedSharpeningGuide]

Nah ill continue to use the professional sharpening system i have and when I'm in the field i carry a work sharp guided field sharpener.

[@outdoorsythings2573]

I carry 2 knifes when hunting. My good knife, cheap but good, ( bps adventurer ) and a exacto knife for the fur. He is right nothing dulls a knife as fast as say elk or moose hair around the legs, i like useing the shingle cutting blades for that. Its basically a gut hook knife. Run that sucker down the hide and good to go on the meat with your good knife. Also practice stroping. Can get it hair popimg sharp and you go to remove that bur with a strop and bam.your knife is dulled, and even worse you start rounding the point. Practice on a cheap gas staion knife

[@alchemykitchen777]

I would use a pull through sharpener if I had no other option, and only on a cheap knife I don't care about, as it removes too much steel and a good chance it's not set to the same edge bevel

[@DetailedbyDon]

I posted on your other video, but sorry to say that you and the "Better" "Knife Dorks," - at least the ones that I pay attention to on KZbin, ARE NOT that different in the ways and methods behind proper knife sharpening. The biggest difference is your end use of the knives. You do a lot of field work - dressing large game animals in the wild, and they (seem to be) geared more towards the culinary (kitchen) aspect of knives and knife sharpening They pretty much ALL preach burr creation, then removal is key to proper technique and getting a truly sharp apex and not just a sharp burr, with a marginal apex ... Love your videos, BTW

[@derekstetzer6388]

Give your bãlls a tug and get replacement blades I still rock with my Kabar 1237 but replacement blades are less hassle.

[@ziruk-king4466]

Always bring two knives - one ultra light very sharp fixed in backpack and bring your go to carry hunting fixed. I never use them until i have animal dow. Common sense to have them paper sharp.

[@jimbob465]

I just run my blades on high grit sand paper then switch to a leather strop when i feel the blade dulling. Takes all of 1 minute and doesnt cost much.

[@mab0852]

Pull throughs are fine as long as they are the round rod type and not the carbide ones. I use those on a lot of thinner knives with softer steel. My hunting and camp knives are all thicker 60+ RC crucible steels with convex grinds, so they get hand sharpened and stropped.

[@jeremyjjbrown]

Ceramic pul through sharpeners are OK. What knife nerds scream about it the silicon carbide ones. Either why with a worksharp field sharpener super cheap and light why use a pull through at all?

[@howitworks3607]

“You’re not a real hunter if you can’t sharpen your knife. Our ancestors did it on a rock.” Proceeds to use hundreds of dollars worth of fancy blade steels and ultra manufactured diamond sharpening tools that he carries around in modern gear made from extremely technologically advanced materials all while using a precision engineered rifle or bow I love the idea of tradition for sure, but it takes a lot of mental gymnastics to say that some modern things are okay to use and others are not. If you just admit that it’s your preference I think that’s a lot more honest and respectable. There’s plenty of honor, tradition, and sportsmanship in hunting itself, depending on your attitude about it, no need to gate keep and tell others they aren’t doing it right because it’s not the way you think is best

[@vasuhardeo1418]

Having a sharp knife is always important even in your own kitchen

[@tbjtbj4786]

How is this such a problem? Case has been making 2 and 3 blaes knives for over a hundred years. Close one open the other

[@newlifely7849]

I dont have this problem. Make your first incision through hair. After that cut from underneath. When you get to joints etc if you know where to cut the right tendons and connecting tissue limds fall off easy.

[@boringoldman]

Real knife guys know this. I think you are actually talking to non-knife people. Also, there’s a thing called a strop. Look it up. God bless

[@ArrowVelocity]

Wait till this guy experiences a premium steel on a fixed angle system like cpm rex 45 with 17dps.

[@CrimeVid]

Anybody that does not know these things, should not go outdoors, make sure all your knives are sharp, take half a scythe stone and a snapped off honing steel.

[@cintage]

Tungsten Carbide pull-through sharpeners are a lot harder than even the hardest steel. That’s why you have to be so careful with those things.

[@jwdory]

I have yet to see a knife KZbinr test blades on any real meat. Know your knife steel and how to touch up and edge. Modern steels will hold an edge several times longer than older or cheep steels.

[@russholcomb]

who the frick only carries 1 knife hahaha Noobs

[@CliffGray]

somebody that knows how to keep a knife sharp