Keeping the Cut Edges From Unraveling

Terrified to cut into your handwoven cloth? Don’t be. Lots of tips for how to handle those potentially unruly cut edges.
Yardage seen in video:
1:36 Phoenix Rising - made into a commercial Vogue pattern, #8134
-view the finished garment here: daryllancaster...
2:20 Frosted Florals - Made into a gown via free-form draping on a dress form
-View the finished garment here: daryllancaster...
-cut short into a top and the bottom portion sewn into the 900 Bias top, both seen here: daryllancaster...
the draft for the yardage is available here: www.weaversew....
2:45 Wildfires - made from a commercial pattern, Vogue patterns #1069 by Issey Miyake
-View the finished garment here: daryllancaster...
-the draft for the yardage is available here: www.weaversew....
3:20 Driftwood - made into two garments, a dress, that is on the right mannequin and motorcycle vest.
Vest - Drafted from a commercial vest
-View the finished garment here: daryllancaster...
4:12 Vertical Barriers Swing Skirt - made from the Daryl Lancaster Pattern Collection modified 1000 Swing Dress
-View the finished garment here: daryllancaster...
5:23 Confetti Vest - made from the Daryl Lancaster Pattern Collection 800 Vest with welt pocket variation
-View the finished garment here: daryllancaster...
-The draft for the yardage is available here: www.weaversew....
-directions for the welt pocket variation can be found here: www.weaversew....
6:18 Winter Florals Swing Coat with Hood - 400 Swing Coat with inseam buttonhole and hood variation from the 700/1700 Tunic
-View the finished garment here: daryllancaster...
8:00 Summer Rain Top - made from the Daryl Lancaster Pattern Collection 1000 Swing Dress with the 200 Jacket armhole
-View the finished garment here: daryllancaster...
-The draft for the yardage is available here: www.weaversew....
10:14 Bias Top - 900 Bias Top, made from the Pacific Sunset yardage
-the draft for the yardage is available here: www.weaversew....
30:25 Motorcycle Vest made from the yardage, Winter Sunset, using a pattern inspired by a commercial garment
-the draft can be viewed here: www.weaversew....
Other links mentioned:
11:18 Hong Kong seam finish - “First Steps: Stay Stitching and The Hong Kong Seam Finish” • First Steps: Stay Stit...
15:03 Tailors Tacks video: “Transferring Marks and Notations from Pattern to Fabric” • Transferring Marks and...
23:39 Overedge Foot - Janome has a variety of available overlock feet that will differ based on your model: www.janome.com...
-Bernina has their own version, called the Overlock foot, which can be found here: www.bernina.co...
28:25 Sapporo Gravity-Fed Iron - the model that we currently have is the Sapporo SP-527, which is available on amazon here: www.amazon.com...
-Wawak sewing supplies has a Sapporo Gravity-Fed iron, SGB-900, which appears to be an updated model. That is available here: www.wawak.com/...
Links:
My Blog: weaversew.com/...
Pattern Collection: www.weaversew....
-the pattern for the top worn in the video is Summer Rain Top; see above for details
-the jacket on the left mannequin is Winter Florals Swing Coat with Hood - 400 Swing Coat with inseam buttonhole and hood variation from the 700/1700 Tunic
-View the finished garment here: daryllancaster...
-the dress on the right mannequin is Driftwood Swing Dress - made from the Daryl Lancaster Pattern Collection 1000 Swing Dress and the 200 Jacket armhole and sleeve
-View the finished garment here: daryllancaster...
Free directions for Pattern Collection: www.daryllanca...
Monographs detailing various techniques in both sewing and weaving:
-print version: www.weaversew....
-digital version: www.weaversew....
Supplies: www.weaversew....
-25:53 Fusi Knit - www.weaversew....

[@UniversalEngineer]

At last, I found this video again. Whew! I needed this. This is the ultimate in educating on DIRECTIONAL SEWING-the best on the internet! My new mantra: “Directional sewing: a) wide-to-narrow (weft), and b) long-to-short (warp). Let the threads drop off as I sew.” Again, this is the BEST education on the topic. 👏🥰👏

[@rvgypsyquilter5283]

Great explanation on grain!

[@anndennis7163]

Wow all those 'scraps' would make a lovely quilt!

[@gerryivkovich1857]

I have been a self taught sewer for years and I learned so much from just this video! I have been weaving on a 32" rigid heddle for a number of years and the only garment I have made is a shawl. It is time for more!!! I can't wait to watch many other lessons you have compiled for someone like me. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. God bless.

[@ChiChi28493]

actually I haven't found any video in my mother-tongue Vietnam about how to handle and sew the hand-woven fabric. This is really useful knowledge and also the way you talk, so clear and slow enough for the abroad like me. Many thanks to you.

[@AndreaAlexander]

I am so glad I found your account!! I've been teaching myself how to sew with my handwoven fabric and haven't been super confident in my edges. I'm excited to find a resource to tell me how to do things correctly 😂 Thank you!!

[@TheWeaverSews]

You are so welcome!

[@MoniqueAO888]

Thank you so much for these helpful informations !!!

[@solangemerino9351]

Excelente maestra, gracias por compartir sus conocimientos.

[@mastinomama8939]

Never learned so much in one video! You are the perfect teacher. Thank you for sharing this tremendous knowledge.

[@cerwelt]

Great video. I could visualize before you demonstrated the “presser foot” exactly what stitching the wrong way would cause. Excellent. I’m betting that’s why patterns give you stitching directions! I’ll remember that when I finally weave and cut my first pattern for sewing. Thanks.

[@Jill4Today]

I love this channel!!

[@AngelaG-lt7my]

Really useful information for both handwoven and commercial fabric. Thank you!

[@TheWeaverSews]

Glad it was helpful!

[@tsecord7111]

Ohhhhh…..I learned so much in this video. Thank you!!!

[@julsbendandi9374]

Thank you for terrific content! Absolutely essential information!!

[@TheWeaverSews]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@JustinDOehlke]

Very well made presentation, thank you ma'am.

[@teacat55]

Thank you for this video

[@worksofhands]

Interesting and useful tips

[@atrinka1]

you are a well of knowledge and a wonderful teacher! Thanks!

[@TheWeaverSews]

You are welcome!

[@kathyinozarks9320]

I am sooo happy I found you too-someone mentioned you on fb sewing for weavers group-I love your videos thank you

[@TheWeaverSews]

You are so welcome!

[@anamariasilvadiaz4968]

muchas gracias, excelente !

[@matthewsaul3533]

Thank you!! This video is so helpful on so many levels. The only question I actually have at this moment is: what is that ironing board? I need something like that! What is it called?

[@KnittingsAndSewings]

Your video is very helpful. I'm excited to be taking your class at MAFA in a couple of weeks on "Combining Warps and Structures for WOW! Yardage"

[@TheWeaverSews]

Wonderful!

[@amysceri3591]

Thank you for all your wonderful information.I wove a beautiful diamond pattern fabric that I wanted to make placemats or a table runner. I have been so scared to cut it. I want to make a folded edge. Should I stabilize the edge first with a straight stitch before folding and pressing the fabric edge and sewing down the fold? I made a table runner for my daughter that I put a backing and an interface. It was sewn on the grain and it still buckled. I now see that if I stitched the weave first to stabilize it,I would not have had the buckling.

[@TheWeaverSews]

There are so many variables that this is tough to answer. Usually fabrics stitched on grain, don't distort, I'm not sure what you mean when you say 'buckle'. That could mean a number of different things. A spongy weave structure might distort as you are trying to hem it, where the hem shifts off the main fabric and the design lines get distorted. A walking foot can help this problem. Stitching to stabilize is usually one of those techniques where you can't go wrong. Unless you stitch against the grain and then cause distortion. Each situation is something to be resolved, there is no one way to do anything. Since my videos are specific for handwoven garments, not hemming placemats or table runners, I suggest different techniques than I would use for hemming a mat or towel. There is a patch pocket video which we haven't released yet that talks about stabilizing the top of the pocket with a stay, so that might be of help. I think that one is the next up for editing. We try to stay ahead with what's filmed and what's edited for scheduled release. And sometimes, the only way to get things to behave is to hand stitch them.

[@madamesasquatch]

I appreciate this video so much! Thanks you! Also, your shirt is beautiful. I can't see a pattern for a summer rain top on your website, is it still available for purchase?

[@daryllancaster9137]

The shirt is a combination of my 1000 swing dress, and the armholes and sleeves from my 200 jacket. I take you through making this combination, step-by-step, in the video, How to Combine Pattern Elements. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bqOZfqJ-aK58ibM

[@madamesasquatch]

@@daryllancaster9137 Thank you!

[@debbief7276]

I am afraid my fabric will travel while I wash it. Tencel warp and wool weft. Sett 20-24 epi. Been sitting in a bag for 5 yrs!

[@EverleyStPeter-pw8ni]

Do you sell a pattern for the woven Tshirt you are wearing in this video? I couldn’t find it on your site.

[@daryllancaster9137]

This is a variation of my 1000 swing dress combined with the armholes and sleeves of the 200 jacket. Center front and back are cut on grain. I have a video on how I did this. I'd have to search to see which one.

[@lindahurd9717]

I watched two videos that I can find again especially the one where you made a purse with a flap over it. I have searched for that video. Is there a way I could find that one again?

[@daryllancaster9137]

The only video where I can remember a purse with a flap over it was the Monday Mini about work I use to do in craft fairs. kzbin.info/www/bejne/a4vPcnSJl6l4pqs

[@PeaceLoveAndRico]

would pinking shears help with fray in handwovens?

[@TheWeaverSews]

not really. Handwoven fabrics will dull pinking shears very quickly and they leave the edge uneven. if warp threads are unraveling, you can still clearly see the weft line as the cut edge for reference. pinking shears will blur that line. best to use one of the methods i describe in the video.