Datacolor Spyder X2 review. Monitor calibrating for editing and video. Matching lighting colour.

Review of the Datacolor Spyder X2. Monitor calibration hardware and software. Matching a screen for video and for editing images. How colour temperature and brightness is matched.
The Spyder X2 allows for calibration of monitors and projectors. The X2 Ultra version supports screens up to 2000 cd/m2 [2000 nits] for HDR and projection. The example here shows monitor calibration at the very low colour temperature of 4000K to match ambient room lighting for print matching and recording video with a screen in it.
The print viewing light show at the end is the Ilfolux, reviewed in this video:
• Review: Ilford Ilfolux...
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www.northlight-images.co.uk/p...
There is a video about soft proofing and test images at:
• Soft proofing, test im...
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[@bdv6083]

Thanks Keith, a very informative video.

[@KeithCooper]

Thanks - glad it was of interest.

[@grahamsmith2743]

Thanks keith. Another interesting video on one of the most baffling subjects in colour management! One tip that might interest your viewers on an iMac is "shift + option + brightness keys" will give smaller increments of brightness than those usually available [which are steps of about 10% I think] I am on Ventura 13.4.1 but it worked for me with previous OS levels. Sometimes it helps.

[@KeithCooper]

Thanks - I'd forgotten that

[@lynsmith1096]

Another good video Keith

[@KeithCooper]

Thanks

[@flol3266]

Great video. Thanks.

[@KeithCooper]

Thank you!

[@cloud-bytes]

Very useful videos. So far ive managed to make a camera profile, calibrate the two monitors. Next printer profiles.... or the scary part as i think of it...

[@KeithCooper]

Thanks No - camera profiles are the scary bit ;-) From my POV, they are only needed very occasionally for specialist lighting conditions and subjects - they are the absolute last bit of profiling I ever suggest people do. 1 - monitor calibration/profile 2 - printer profiles 3-7 other things... 8 [at least] - camera profiling

[@cloud-bytes]

@@KeithCooper 3-7 Other things… Is slowly rocking back and forth in a dark corner #7

[@wamp-aw]

Thanks Keith for the informative video. I am still using a very old “Colormunki Photo”. Do you see any reason to upgrade to a Spyder X2? There shouldn’t be a difference in calibration result unless aging hardware/sensors could influence the calibration…?

[@KeithCooper]

The only reason is if you are now using a monitor technology which didn't exist when the original came out - and - are using the old software. Essentially, not much reason if the old kit is fine...

[@FerrariCS16]

Hi, thanks for the video, going to buy my first sensor :D one question, what do you mean by "hardware calibrated"? my monitor have "lg calibration studio" software that will calibrate monitor itself automatically, but it requires some sensor(like spyderx). is the same in that BenQ monitor too?

[@KeithCooper]

Hardware calibration is where the process makes adjustments internally to the monitor. I don't know that software/monitor brand so I'm not sure - it sounds similar

[@FerrariCS16]

@@KeithCooper ok, thanks :) one more question, if i buy this sensor, is it possible to calibrate friend's monitors/TVs too? or software can be installed only on 1 PC and won't work? or for this purpose i need laptop?

[@KeithCooper]

I don't know for sure - you just need the code linked to the sensor device to activate the software. I've long run it on multiple machines It does not support TVs other than as an external computer monitor

[@paul5469]

Hi Keith,i have just bought a Spyder x pro and was instructed to calibrate my monitor in a totally dark room,my question is when i edit my prints do I have to do that in a dark room or can i edit in moderate light ?hope this makes sense too you. Relatively new to this game and still learning lol Regards paul.

[@KeithCooper]

The dark room is not strictly necessary - just keep strong light from hitting the screen. It helps make sure the calibrator is measuring the screen, not screen+room The same goes for using the screen. I don't bother with getting the software to measure room lighting levels. I've more info in my written reviews, such as www.northlight-images.co.uk/spyder-x-calibrator-review/

[@paul5469]

@@KeithCooper thankyou keith,keep up the great vids.

[@saigonzu9658]

Dear Mr Keith. I had i1studio 2 years ago, it just broken. I want to buy another one, but my "wallet" empty.... How about this Datacolor Spyder X2. Is it good just for calibritate my monitor. Thanks.

[@KeithCooper]

Yes - perfectly good for most applications.

[@johnhuntley5591]

If after calibration using a particular brightness prints appear dark I assume we should revisit the calibration and reset the brightness lower. Does it make sense to have two calibrations, one for with room lighting on for say evening time and one with lighting off for daytime work?

[@KeithCooper]

In general, multiple calibrations are a lot of hassle... [I only use them for video editing, where I have one monitor giving me REC709] I've found that opening a known test image on screen and comparing it with the one I want to print gives me a much better grounding and ability to trust my editing. The screen brightness helps, but the real key is learning to appreciate a screen as just that

[@johnhuntley5591]

Thanks for the reply Keith. One further question. If you adjust the contrast on the monitor does it change the way photos appear in lightroom? For example would a picture appear to have high contrast prior to ant being applied in LR?@@KeithCooper

[@KeithCooper]

@@johnhuntley5591 Any adjustment to a monitor control likely breaks the calibration - you only adjust monitor controls during the profiling/calibration process, as directed by the software. Ideally, the software can set this and you never need to go anywhere near monitor controls. Also 'contrast' on a monitor control is rarely the same as any contrast setting during editing

[@Ian-gp9xu]

Hi, would there be a benefit to using a monitor calibration tool for viewing and editing black and white photographs? I can't think of why it would be of use.

[@KeithCooper]

Linearity...

[@Ian-gp9xu]

@KeithCooper Thanks Keith

[@stianaas2733]

Takk!

[@KeithCooper]

Thanks!

[@green1mantle]

I have the old spyder 5 the software isn’t being updated, should I upgrade my spyder to the latest version . Regards Richard

[@KeithCooper]

I've not followed updates, and at what point the S5 sensor was no longer supported on different systems. The sensor should be fine still - that would make me loath to update if I could find a work-round. The version I'm looking at here is the full whistles and bells version - so the standard one would be fine for most people.

[@biotheif1]

hi Keith how can i tell if my monitor is able to be calibrated or can they all please

[@KeithCooper]

The calibration for a basic monitor is set in your computer - more advanced [expensive!] monitors may have internal settings which are adjusted/set as well. The Spyder software here provides the computer side of calibration/profiling for Mac and Windows Once you have the hardware measuring device, you may find other software which can be used - but the device comes with Mac/Win S/W

[@biotheif1]

@@KeithCooper thankyou for your reply the monitor i have is an msi optixmag301 rf i have googled if my monitor can be calibrated and found various results i just dont want to spend 700 pound of the printer and 255 pound of the spyder if it wont make any diff, im sorry to bother you a second time but its 1k i will waste if it dont work, all i need to know really Keith is if i use the spyder on my screen willk it help my printing on a decent printer

[@KeithCooper]

It should, but I simply don't know that monitor at all - it also depends on the computer it's connected to and [for win PCs the graphics card] However...I've not used a win PC for 20+ years though, so my knowledge there is very outdated ;-) I''d start with just the printer - the printer test images I've got on the Northlight site are great for testing things.

[@protestagain]

I may have a new subject for a new video. My laptop screen can manage to view 100% aRGB. What is the difference between that screen and an expensive stand-alone screen with maybe 12 lut? What about those new laptops, there is one with 100% DCI-P3, 300 nits screen to choose or Pantone-calibrate 4K-screen with 100% aRGB, 400 nits?

[@protestagain]

I see you use apple products, while I am a PC man. Apple has for a long time bragged about their Retina screens, and in forums the various debaters have tried to brag about how wonderful these products are, but I've never really understood that. I had a laptop many years before an iMac came with an IPS screen and now I have one that shows 100% aRGB. What does Apple's Retina displays show, sRGB?

[@KeithCooper]

Ah there I don't know for certain. it's not by choice that the laptop in my videos is a 2010 MacBook pro and the iMac a 2012 model which used to belong to my Mother. I've just not researched this area in any detail of late - big monitors like my SW321 just give a very good even performance, with hardware calibration. I'd note too that I don't have the equipment [$$$] to do accurate measurements/comparisons, so my coverage of monitors is quite specific: www.northlight-images.co.uk/category/articles-and-reviews/monitors/ Given that I calibrate monitors to 100-120cd/m2 - one that goes to 400 is of no real relevance whatsoever to any actual use I'd have for one. I don't edit HDR or high level video for example. Nor do I work with one outdoors or any other bright environment

[@protestagain]

@@KeithCooper I configured my laptop purchase so that it should be able to handle Fuji GFX files, but also to be able to work with them in the camper when I'm on a trip. It is primarily landscape, architecture and fine-art photography that I do, and I can spend a long time travelling. For me, it is important to have the best screen and laptop for under 2 kg. I understand that this topic, like many others, is difficult, but I see that some geeks point out the importance of 10 versus 12 LUT screens. I don't know, but in any case, I won't have the opportunity to have such a top monitor with me.

[@KeithCooper]

I'd suggest the key is good calibration and working in the right lighting conditions. Even the best screen is let down by not paying attention to those aspects.

[@protestagain]

@@KeithCooper This is also what I believe to be the best solution, instead of going all technical and buying the best monitor available, which you still cannot take with you on a trip. I think my 4K - 15.6" screen with 100% display of aRGB should last for the most part, possibly check before printing, because it only happens when you are at home, or at the place where you are going to print and where you can do the latest adjustments.

[@michaelranger9104]

intresting point the colour checker must be plugged into the computer not a usb hub as it refuses to work so my mac only has a single usb 3 socket which runs the second monitor so there is no way to calibrate the two screens to each other as it detects is going through a splittr or hub, and refuses to work

[@KeithCooper]

Sorry, that's one to take up with datacolor - I don't have any macs with just one USB - is there not a USB A socket - the device comes with an adapter

[@michaelranger9104]

@@KeithCooper the adapter is seen as a hub because you need to split the plug one feed to the external monitor and the calibrater.

[@KeithCooper]

You'd need to check with Datacolor - their support is quite good. I've just never had a Mac with only one USB port, so it's not something I've tried on any of mine during testing