Ken Parker Archtoppery: Bending Sides 2

[@guitarsofold100]

This is what YT is for! No need for crazy edits or annoying shredding tracks.Just vital information from a professional..

[@kenparkerarchtoppery9440]

Thanks for this, it means a lot. Just trying to help!

[@isaacbeckett1499]

This has to be some of the most incredible information on KZbin. Thank you so much for making this available! Truly a legend.

[@kenparkerarchtoppery9440]

Wow, thanks! I love building, and it's a privilege to have a plan and a place to share what I've learned.

[@occamseraser]

My generation’s Leo Fender. Thanks so much for this video series Ken, you’re amazing.

[@kenparkerarchtoppery9440]

My pleasure! Glad you're digging it!

[@TheAdambright]

This is amazing, thank you for sharing your knowledge.

[@kenparkerarchtoppery9440]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@martinlouden9005]

Well I'm well and truly hooked!

[@kenparkerarchtoppery9440]

Don't hurt yourself!

[@jeffreyjones4226]

Ken is there a video that shows the removal of these bending patches? Have you tried other glues in the past? last Q...how do you hide the glue leak thru staining?

[@kenparkerarchtoppery9440]

Yeah, I show how my ancient Sunbeam iron and I remove the patch with some heat. Very calm and easy.

[@thijs199]

Trying out this linnen method with some pieces of oak, how do you actually remove the linnen afterwards?

[@kenparkerarchtoppery9440]

You can use some heat, like an iron or hairdryer works fine. you'll have to get it above 100C or 212F to get it to get gooey and let go. Heat-defeated epoxy smells bad, so use a fan. Otherwise you can remove it with sandpaper.

[@FlesHBoX]

Have you considered doing the pre-wetting and blotting before applying it to the before laying it up in the cauls? Might prevent the need for cleaning up the edges.

[@kenparkerarchtoppery9440]

This is fun. Well, the trimming is easy, if that's what your referring to. The whole thing is quick, and goes easily if you don't use too much resin.

[@FlesHBoX]

@@kenparkerarchtoppery9440 I more meant wetting out the cloth separately, like on another surface, then stacking the layup on the cauls. That way you don't have to wipe away any resin that squeezes out of the cloth from the cauls. Similar to how fiberglass hand layup is done.

[@elluisito000]

Hello again! So, if i am understanding this correctly, one is to use the linen reinforcement only in the areas where the side board is going to be bent the most? Like Cut away curve and the waist? Thanks

[@kenparkerarchtoppery9440]

Right, you just need it where the wood sees lots of stress. If you have well behaved straight grained wood, it's not needed at all if you've got your technique together.

[@CKDz]

Hi Ken. Great video. Pardon my ignorance, but I noticed you called out each of the boards and noted which one was bass and treble side. What are factors you look at for that? Are they both the same thickness? Anything special to understand?

[@kenparkerarchtoppery9440]

Well, when you have a pair of sides, you do have some orientation choices to make. You can match them either inside or out, or flip one of them so they don't match, but most often, builders will go for the nicest looking match at the butt joint. When you decide which of these options is best, then they have bass or treble side identities. I like to draw a triangle on them on the outside of the the butt joint so I can tell what's what at a glance, and not get confused. Normally the sides are the same thickness everywhere. I like to bend perfectly sanded sides with no surface defects at .055" - .065", or 1.5mm plus or minus .13mm.

[@brocktechnology]

I missed something, didn't you do the second and third patches with a full wet bond to the piece and blot the side against the cull? More or less the opposite of what you explained while doing the first patch.

[@kenparkerarchtoppery9440]

You'll be getting your prize in the mail! I was waiting for your observation. I'm new to talking and working at the same time, and it feels like juggling while unicycle riding sometimes. In this session, as I was doing it backwards, having just explained how important it was to do it forwards, it was everything I could do not to just bust out laughing at myself! Fortunately, I found out that if you put exactly the right amount of resin on, and get it together promptly, it appears that it works just as well. Of course, mistakes and out - of - order work goofs are half of how we keep learning. Like walking, which although we do this all the time, we seem never to notice consciously that it is a loop of falling and then catching our balance, so, not only moving forward, but keeping our faces off the sidewalk. Thanks!

[@brocktechnology]

@@kenparkerarchtoppery9440 Excellent, I'm not crazy. Feel free to take a break and laugh at yourself, we're all friends here and it's very instructive. keep at it and before long you'll be smooth as butter. I Am looking forward to what's next, you've cleary got a lot to share.

[@roughcutguitars]

Damn - I missed out on the prize! I was thinking the same, but in a bout of 'Emperor's new clothes' was afraid to say anything :-D I'm years away from trying one, but tucking these tips away for that day, thank you!

[@robertthomas7644]

How and why do you mark the cauls this seems real important and you don't say anything but you must line the patches with them. Clear only if known.

[@kenparkerarchtoppery9440]

Sorry, maybe I wasn't clear about this, but there are marks on the particleboard cauls to show the position of the linen squares. Of course, the position of the linen patches is important, and I try to glue them exactly in the right place so that it helps me to visualize the position the apex of the bend, when everything is hot and wet, and needs to get quickly bent exactly right the first time.