Kevin Jorgeson - One-Hand Dyno on The Groove, E11 Second Ascent

Kevin Jorgeson on the 2nd ascent of one of England's hard traditional routes, The Groove, E11. From the feature documentary PROGRESSION. Rent or Download here: reelrocktour.com/collections/...

[@NebulousFound]

he never actually sent the groove, big up productions edited to make it look like he did but he never got through the second crux which he said on his blog was 'completely impossible' on his blog. He actually got through the first crux and traversed right one of the cracks and around it. I think its a little naughty of big up

[@krakenattackin7617]

And then he claimed to downgrade it, when he didn't even f ing climb it.

[@JimboWizbo]

The look he gives the belayer is priceless

[@inazuma3gou]

1:32 "What I am doing trusting my life to HIM."

[@ashardalon9999]

the look on kevin's face is even better, like "did I actually just trust you to belay me on this runout, impossible, E11?"

[@willdazns]

3:18 that noise euggghh

[@FroideGuerre]

It looks like an amazing road with this long long slap. Very nice nice nice

[@RedBaron3031]

show this guy how to belay pls

[@uuzumakifox9]

3:32 " I basically just cirumsized my finger" haha man he cracked me up

[@Zerofukstogive]

" let me just grab this pebble"

[@sounddiggers]

hahah love grimer at the end there ! hehee nice work lads !

[@benlohrman7415]

I love the way the guy is like "No dude no!" in a high pitched voice after he "rips his finger off."

[@Agriolimax]

Excellent!

[@ParkourKizzer]

some awesome climbing and a nice looking finger rip too lol gd stuff guys

[@satle987]

thanks bro

[@mahardikasaputra9350]

so good

[@sundomepharmd]

holy shiznizzle! the finger nubs are insane!!!

[@tomchaps1]

From the top, he'd hit the ground. This style of climbing on gritstone is famous for its insecure movements and the high degree of risk if you fall from the wrong place. The E11 rating is not just due to difficulty of the climb, but the danger from falling.

[@goldreserve]

First time the belayer had gone climbing, true story

[@GreenChorizo]

how could he possibly hold on to that freaking small thing!!!

[@vojtecha01]

soooo small holds, omg!! BIG UP!!

[@kevinward]

IF U CLIMB AND HAVE NOT SEEN THIS U HAVE TO WATCH IT. AMAZING caps4life yo

[@ClimbingChrispy]

0_o He was definitely cranking off that slap at 1:58. That hold was for sure bigger than 90 degrees and he's just sitting there absolutely crushing it.

[@evanescence1984]

"oooohhh - The Gritstone bites back today? F'cking Bastard!" Priceless

[@streetmirage]

Superhuman!

[@mkpadovani]

Nuts !

[@harrisric128]

very nice... i guess its time to stop putting off buying the DVD;)

[@chmellen]

I actually felt that too.

[@paintsaint10]

3:17 i doubt i was the only person that stared at the scream in horror for that guy.

[@franzschneckenbauer]

@iwasmexican the song is from Grand National - Going to switch the Lights on

[@inibikini]

"noo dude noo" :o

[@davidfierro1233]

Man this level of climbing is god mode...

[@kaedenz]

I like how he can grip something about the size of a pimple.

[@bizmonkey007]

I’ve seen some ridiculously small holds, but he’s holding onto stuff the size of a pinhead.

[@earthdalekjor]

ha 1:30 the look on his face is like "wow am i going to put my life in your crappy belaying hands

[@W00TTANG]

This is done in situations where if the belayer was just standing by the wall with no extra slack and the climber fell they would hit the floor before the rope goes tight. If, however, the belayer can move quickly and get a few metres out quickly enough a ground fall can be avoided. To not have the slack in the system at all the belayer would have to be off the ground ;)

[@franzschneckenbauer]

@Shreddzilla look on the bigup homepage there is a list with all the songs from the movie try to find it there

[@loganmott2015]

Holy shit!

[@camerongingerbrown]

You can't really translate E grades into other grading systems as the idea behind them is that everything is taken into account when a route is graded. The difficulty; how hard it is to place gear; how exposed and committing a route is all plays a role. Some routes have low grades but are technically difficult as theyre very safe to climb.

[@chris_matthew_climb]

@franzschneckenbauer thank you very much

[@medicman3769]

10 years ago. Wow

[@MrSimonblunt]

Amazing and his finger injury is discussing

[@scottfawcus9231]

That flapper will heal up perfectly - i speak from experience when I did 3 finger pads worse than that in the vid and all in one go and got pretty smashed up in the process - thing is though I wasn't climbing - I was trying to stop a sheet of steel weighing about 1/2 ton and literally had my fingers trapped between the steel and my knee that was supporting the weight I had to rip them out and lucky for me the heals on my trainers was strong enough to stop my ankle getting smashed too... Anyway - well done on the attempt :-)

[@kariskaulitz]

This is so fucking cool.

[@ziooleck]

Amon Tobin - Always

[@snowreck]

what a fucking beast, he gripped and dominated the bird shit on the wall

[@MrTwinkieC]

Ouch!!

[@philosophiliac]

That's some spiderman shit right there...

[@analogjac4444]

What a flapper! That hurt me watching it.

[@NinjaBenification]

2:00 what the frig did he just grip?! a pinch the size of a kidney bean!

[@simonjacques3634]

That's not the full route, he only did the start (1st Crux) and then finished up Fern Hill (E2) = no tick

[@Novum87]

I really would love to know the name of the Song bigup!

[@EZPrAnCs]

let me switch the lights on by Grand National

[@campagnolo14]

what is the song at the very opening ?

[@ArashMoto2000]

Muscle power

[@natedcruz]

@lightspeed82 yeah it probably had nothing to do with the fact that he's a professional climber who makes a good portion of his living from climbing and that wound prevents him from doing so, or the fact that because of it he had to wait even longer to send his project in bishop.

[@W00TTANG]

The idea is that if he falls the belayer moves away from the wall as quickly as possible to try and take away another metre or so of slack. Yeah this may pull the belayer quite awkwardly, but could save the climbers life.

[@albertocasanoval]

min 2:28, bad belaying technique, quite dangerous

[@pok3ypup]

Alberto Casanova He's using a grigri, so that's not as bad as it seems. Should probably still have both hands on tho, but jus' sayin'.

[@psk246]

Alberto Casanova I saw a guy falling 20 meters because the belayer was using the grigri like that

[@nerfzinet]

It's exactly as bad as it seems. You never let go of the loose end of the rope no matter which belay device you're using. Petzl have made instructional videos for the GRIGRI in which they explicitly, over and over again repeat that whatever you're doing you keep that hand on the rope at all times. I'm sure it's mentioned at least a few times in the instruction manual as well. There is literally a life on the line, you don't mess around with this shit. For once in your life, read the fucking manual.

[@MrYetidesigns]

I'm pretty sure it's just a joke

[@Psychid5]

It is bad, if climber sits down on the rope instead of clean fall, grigri might not lock. We tested it out in our climbing gym and there have been really bad accidents while belaying like that.

[@madelinepindell7870]

3:32 i died holy shit

[@chris_matthew_climb]

anyone know what the song is when hes actually climbing it...?

[@robert.hucknall]

I feel like ripping his tip was grit karma for trying to claim an ascent of the groove

[@FutureInsyte]

it does look it but the grit is so much more grippy that the holds look terrible but are way better then if it was on limestone, hard scary stuff but not as physically demanding as some of the stuff they do

[@wadlow23]

Where is this it looks like the Peak District ...?

[@isakkane97]

i feel like an E11 on there rating system is like a 5.50 on the yosemite rating system!

[@TrackpadProductions]

....wasn't the title of this video different a few days ago?

[@CPeyser08]

OUCH!

[@AtrumAethra]

it's all feet. he's literally pushing 99% from his left foot. the nipple in his right hand is just to hold himself on and give a little extra direction to his push. regardless, he pretty much gave that rock the hardest nipple pinch this world has ever seen

[@DustinKeiser]

3:19 when I heard that, I grabbed my finger and squeezed it

[@BlueThistleFeather]

OUCH

[@415customs]

my god! tiny jibs! AAAAAH

[@riedstep]

ive never seen holds that small

[@JordyaMattson]

look how young Alex honnold is

[@NikySportsPromotion]

does he know how to use a grigri (hint: lift the lever)

[@r2Kd0ugernaut]

@odum1002 what hes holding on to is your awwww, and thats about it. i 100% garantee you that "hold" does little more then mentally assure your ballance and make people think your an awesome climber.

[@guppish]

how does the E grading system translate into other ones?

[@TesterAnimal1]

It’s like this mate: on limestone it’s E for effort. On gritstone, it’s E for extermination.

[@kazo0ie]

he skipped the second crux.

[@Pepavalenzuelacorrea]

what is the name for the first song??

[@supaaznman648]

omg

[@grandeTO9]

Did anyone else at 2:00 go, "wait, there's no way he just pulled up on that little jib." Then subsequently at 2:11 your confusion was confirmed, and you were just like, "what in the fuck is that. that's fucking ridiculous." Then your confusion was remedied at 3:18 when reality kicked in.

[@barutsuomiei]

@Pepavalenzuelacorrea Amon Tobin - Always (0:07 - 0:11)

[@suuchi]

He didn't pull himself up by grabbing a nipple of rock, he's using his leg plus the rock climbing shoes gave him the an excellent friction to withstand himself on the rock. By grabbing the rock it just to give him the stability. Overall I learned a few technique by watching this vid tho. This vid is great make an episode 2 already.

[@MrPengwin95]

1:32 "you set it up wrong?"

[@Damned_Burnouts]

nooo dude! noo!

[@aaronmermis5858]

whats the music that starts at 1:31 ?

[@PanWilku]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/i5Kod6h8rtV-mbM

[@zks4sk]

3:47 ducktape over fingertape

[@MrRockspot]

"i just circumcised my finger"

[@eldiagrama]

nice 3:19

[@Pstoned]

Yes but it's mainly for balance

[@atomicdogg34]

fuckin hell, ouch

[@freebustar]

Oh man i just open my mouth 10-15 secs after that rip on the finger ...3:16 aaauggh

[@cstorms85]

grit

[@wumpascott]

wouldn't wanna get a purple nurple from that guy 2:12

[@satle987]

song?

[@johnwishstobefree]

he went the wrong way at the top, back around youth.

[@Cascademenace]

Absurdly small holds.

[@oihnbn]

is this real? is that hold possible. why would you even grade that

[@BatmanProject777]

Dang it, I'm a big pansy ! ha ha ! I had shivers when he slashed his finger ! Makes me wonder if any climbers are doing finger toughening exercises, like martial art type stuff....like to toughen the skin actually.

[@TheNawshit]

looks way harder than something sharma or ondra has ever done

[@zznosnos]

ゆ、指！！

[@Cyberbob182]

The red guy is Alex Honnold, the amazing soloist. !

[@iGoetzi]

lol if he falls the belayer will pe pulled horizontally towards the wall.. he will fall and maybe get hurt..

[@navidkraszczynski524]

1:58 2:11 this shouldn't work 3:18 this won't work, it didn't