How to Use an Ice Axe | Explained

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Want to get into mountaineering, winter backpacking, or thru hike the Pacific Crest Trail or Continental Divide Trail? Then you’ll need to know how to use an ice axe! We cover the different types of ice axes on the market, the anatomy of an axe, how to choose and buy your axe, how to self belay, self arrest, and glissade!
0:00 Intro
1:35 The Types of Ice Axes
3:08 The Anatomy of an Ice Axe
4:15 How to Choose an Ice Axe
7:13 When to Use an Ice Axe
10:21 How to Self Belay
14:57 How to Self Arrest
21:06 How to Glissade
21:58 Next Steps

[@Sirskibumsalot]

As a former back country , and resort ski patroller just wanted to say great job on your ice axe self arrest presentation ....thats how its done !

[@RadishUprooted]

Thanks, that means a lot!

[@BonuxCouleur]

I would go shorter on the ice axe, the reason is not weight, lighter is just a bonus. The main reason is that an ice axe is not meant to be a cane per se. If the slope is so gentle that you are going to use your ice axe as a cane then you are better off using carbon sticks, they will give you more power and more stability. But since the object of an ice axe is MOUNTAINeering, where you ice axe is going to be most needed is when it gets steep and when it gets steep it is not just weight that matters, it is maneuverability. An ice axe that is too long can prove useless and even dangerous. Steeper means your body gets closer to the slope and closer to the slope means there is less space between you and the slope to maneuver. In situations where you need to make a decision fast, a life saving decision maybe even, a shorter ice axe is far more adapted than the magic stick of Gandalf the grey which makes for a great cane indeed. Especially one handed. You want to be able to smash your axe into the slope quickly instead of juggling with it, getting it stuck into your clothing or your backpack while trying to flex your elbow. The distance should not be between your hand and your ankle, the distance is going to be the space that will allow you to make that quick decisive movement that will secure your balance. My advice is to buy both: get yourself a pair of carbon sticks that you will use all season (forget about aluminium) - they are much cheaper these days - and get yourself a shorter ice axe for what it was designed for. For me the ice axe should be no longer than 55-60cm. I would say even more, get yourself a climbing kit with a hammer and ice screws bag, a harness and quickdraw. Because if you fall into a crevasse and survive the fall somehow which happens more often than people might think, relying only on your crampons and ice axe to climb your way up is going to prove... complicated to say the least. It will take time, effort and a few failed attempts and you don't want to risk falling any further. Of course if you're not wearing the harness it will be pointless. Minimizing weight while optimizing your movements is what we're looking for ultimately. Meaning if something goes wrong (mountaineering even at low altitude is no walk in the park after all) what do I need for me and and maybe also to rescue others. Great video but on subject like these talk with people and chose something that is going to be adapted to your need and terrain. Listen to people but listen to yourself also and be honest with yourself. In some small mountains I have often read comments from people who have done it saying "it is much easier than we thought it would be" so the temptation of doing it with less is great. There are times when I felt like an idiot wearing my harness and helmet, and felt completely over equipped. It is always when it is a first time for me. One in particular started with no snow, no rain, sunny weather perfectly dry, light wind. It was a first and as much as it bothered me I took the whole gear. It was a one day climb back and forth. Steep but nothing too technical, I could see how people doing it in perfectly dry weather could find it easy. The I reached the plateau, took the drone out, took a few photos and within half an hour the weather turned to heavy rain, not even snowy, just cold rain. The slab of granite I found easy on the way up was absolute black ice on the way down. The track luckily has wires, I could stay put my tent up but I know the weather could get worst and the weather forecast quite frankly is always a gamble in this part of the World. Had I not taken my harness... which is heavy, I would have had to stay till it gets dry. The granite slab is only about 500 meters but there is nothing to stop you if you start rolling down, even though it was slippery as hell, I made it slow and back to camp in one piece. Later during my trip I was told that experienced mountaineers died on this easy slab about every two years. And I could really see why someone who has climbed super technical steep mountains would find this track easy but as often when you look at professional climbers or pro sports people, parachutists or gliders who died in recent years, it often seem to happen during routine training in terrain and conditions they have done a billion times before. So, listen to others and trust your common sense and judgement as well. At the end of the day only you know what you're capable of, you don't want to find you're dead wrong when your life depends on it. Be safe, play it safe.

[@CS-zb3km]

Yo this dude is right!!

[@andriibabarytskyi647]

That was one hell of a read. Just a few days ago I went on a hike as I thought overequipped, I had crampons, carbon sticks, a short ice axe. But as I was progressing to the 2000m point, I understood that it was barely enough to do what I was doing. The worst part, I didn't check avalanche zones and went alone. At some point I've encountered a super steep descent about 45-55 degrees, I've put crampons first time in my life (thank god, I've tried to put them night before and learned how to strap them on). Whatever divine intervention it was, I've managed to finish half of my plan and reached an asphalted road which I followed to get to the nearest train station. The summer hike that should have taken 3.5 h took me 6.5 to finish half of it and another hour to get to train station (it's in a Switzerland). After getting into a rather dangerous situation, and contemplating on all possible outcomes, I came to conclusions, that were in this video - getting a partner, checking avalanches. After reading your comment I've decided for the next winter season I will get myself the rest of the aforementioned equipment. This risky tour didn't kill my interest in mountaineering, but definitely highlighted week spots of my preparation and knowledge. Again, I was lucky, especially lucky that I am a type of person that gets into a hobby and immediately buys tones of equip that they may never need after one time. In case of mountaineering this practice is not a flaw, but a necessity.

[@hikingwithbarb9006]

What a great video! I loved the detail and it was very educational to someone who has never used an ice axe before. I am doing the PCT this year and need to go out and practice what I have learned from your video! Thanks so much for sharing!

[@RadishUprooted]

Glad you found it useful! Feel free to check out my videos from thru hiking the PCT in 2020, especially the sections in the Sierra where the ice axe was super critical. Good luck and enjoy the journey!

[@trexinvert]

Great instructions. I don't alpine hike, but it surprises me when talking to some california hikers when I mention ice axe their response is, "what's an ice axe". I was hoping you could demonstrate the ice axe on a small patch of icy 60 degree slope, because that's where you really need it. Keep on.

[@RadishUprooted]

Thank you! It’s not the easiest or safest to film on that type of terrain precisely because that’s where you really do need your axe-but the concepts are all the same!

[@Mr_J_J]

Ice axe masterclass! This Ted Talk make me feel ready to start practicing safely! 🙏

[@lifeoftheman]

Fantastic video! I’ve never used an ice axe and I’ve recently decided that I want to try more mountaineering. I sport climbed a lot in my years but mountaineering just gets you out there to some amazing places and watching your video, which is so helpful and instructional, got me even more excited. Thank you for an amazing guide and tutorial 🙏🙌🏼😁

[@user-nv5wj6xw1u]

That was one of the clearest mountaineering videos I've watched!

[@RadishUprooted]

Thanks, I’m happy you got a lot out of it!

[@warisarabarnhart1835]

Thanks for making this video. Very helpful for beginners!!

[@scottiehozment6696]

Really good information & instructions easy to understand and follow , thank you

[@melaniematta8580]

This is the most informative video! So well organized!! Thank you🙌

[@hiking1213]

Excellent video. Appreciate you going through the trouble of teaching the details.

[@phoenixkirchoff5268]

Great instruction. And so nice to see one of my fav routes in the background up White River to Timberline and beyond🤙

[@SomeDudeSomewhereOverThere]

Awesome. Great video! Going to still practice before my summit trip on Hood in June

[@michiestanley]

Fantastic video! 🤩 The last positions while falling look like you could hit yourself in the eye with the axe so I guess using these techniques will require a lot of prior training before you get out there in the mountain. This video will literally save lives. And so well presented. Loved the light weight axe by the way, very sleek 😎

[@KirstenBayes]

Good stuff, appreciated: really nicely presented! Black Diamond call the pointy bit at the bottom of the ice axe the "spike". I too think of it as the pick at the bottom.

[@miyahosaka8361]

This was great, thank you! I am going out to practice tomorrow :)

[@Kelly_Explores]

Super helpful in refreshing my knowledge and learning new techniques! Thank you!!

[@erickjuarez5044]

Thank you so much for this video! Super helpful!

[@EliasTragas]

Super well organized presentation. Thank you for putting the time into doing this so well.

[@burrianaUK]

Really simple to follow instruction. Thank you. And I now know what type of axe I need for winter fell walking in The Lake District 👍🏼🙂

[@silvermediastudio]

Phenomenal presentation! Covered all the bases.

[@bubba7626]

Great vid! seems like such a critical tool especially for a beginner that as for me, I'm going to leash it up....

[@wally1138]

Great video! Thank you!

[@SwiftAnthony]

Thanks for the instructions!

[@leontrotsky531]

Nice. Very informative.

[@eliomontes6898]

Thanks so much! Very useful!

[@carriebancroft3659]

Thank you SO MUCH for this!!! Now it’s time for me to practice!

[@RadishUprooted]

Practice a bunch and have fun!

[@azbacnikorange]

Excellent. Thank you so much for this video

[@debraonthego3960]

Great video!!!

[@tanmaybalutia]

Loved it the information is really helpful

[@Tids_]

Thanks for putting the effort in to give us this great info! A new sub from me! Thanks

[@yuliyanikiforets]

Very helpful!! Thank you so much

[@crephcrafterlp4899]

Great Video! Keep it up!

[@Kateyvr]

Amazing. Thanks.

[@UAPReportingCenter]

Great job

[@hahaurgd]

Thank you so much for this! This really helps a beginner like me! 😊

[@RadishUprooted]

Happy to help-Have fun and be safe!

[@Al-fr1bi]

Thanks for the great information.

[@81radumata2]

Tks!Good job!

[@JReylord]

Thank you for this!

[@LordQuiche]

Didn’t know any of that, thanks 🙏

[@BackcountryPilgrim]

Good info thanks!

[@michaelbarger2078]

Thanks this is a great video I learned a lot.

[@jackfabulous758]

I will be doing the mountaineers route on Whitney later this year and very thankful for for institutions brother 🤜🏼 🪓 🤛🏼

[@RadishUprooted]

Good luck, have a blast!

[@jimsagubigula7337]

Thank you sir.

[@mmihaitiganus2648]

Thanks for intel 👍🙏

[@AmericanDrainWorks]

Thank you. great help is getting up and down. Hope to never have to arrest...

[@franka7691]

Thanks a lot.

[@jenniferrussell-bickford5047]

Your background looks like a green screen! Thank you for this informative video. I am on my final stretch of Colorado 14ers in which some require an ice axe. Want to go in as prepared as possible. Thank you for the guidance!

[@RadishUprooted]

Good luck and have fun!

[@Kelly_Explores]

I stumbled across your comment and just want to say if you need a buddy, I'm trying to get in some class 3s and 4s this summer! ;)

[@jerryrichards8172]

I had to self arest going down glacier on Mt Shast. when the axe bit my momentum ripped the tool from my hand. I was useing a wrist strap to the ice axe was i hanging from that strap it was shocking and violent how fast it was removed from my hand.

[@RadishUprooted]

Glad you’re alright!

[@rwpavel]

I know it's July, but how about a video on using crampons sometime before winter. Very nice video on the ice axe btw!

[@RadishUprooted]

Great idea! Once we get some snow here in the Cascades this winter I’ll try to put one together.

[@crs1flo]

For the first time i used my first ice axe, the info in your video probably save my life, or at least saved me from falling of a sloap of aprox.500m. So thank you so much! One question: what snow shoes are in the video at the beagining?

[@RadishUprooted]

I’m glad you’re okay, be careful out there! Those are the Altas Heliums.

[@rockjays7926]

Helpful video, however you should note to remove crampons if you are wearing them before glissading.

[@patpodenski8465]

Good instructional video. Except when going uphill at an angle to the fall line, the ice axe should be advanced when in the position of balance. In other words when the uphill foot is ahead of the downhill foot. Climbing/walking in balance is fundamental good footwork that complements the use of the ice axe for self belay. Thanks for posting!

[@sschmitt6557]

Agree. If you really need the ax, you shouldn't be standing on one foot while you move the ax and your other foot. 1. move downhill foot 2 move uphill foot 3 move ax To always maintain two points of contact.

[@aspmos]

Excellent job, thanks I would prefer the demonstration would be done with a backpack

[@whitemexican3923]

Thank you for a fine video. One question: Is there any recommend as to placing tape on the long shaft in order that it night not slip from the hands?

[@RadishUprooted]

Good question! You’ll notice that the vast majority of the time, you’re really only holding the axe by the head, not by the shaft, in order to self arrest or self belay. So tape isn’t necessary. The only times you’re really holding the axe by the shaft would be on steeper slopes where you’re using it more as an ice tool. In these cases, you’ll want a more aggressive ice axe with either a curve in the shaft, or depending on the climb you may want an full on ice tool. Both of these styles have actual grips on the shafts for exactly the reason you were asking about.

[@TheHikingChick1]

Excellent video Kyle. I'd love to see this with full pack on too for PCT. For my PCT hike this year I was considering purchasing an ice axe on the way if it turns out to be necessary for Apache and San Jacinto. I'm assuming that would mean hitching to Idyllwild from Paradise Cafe to purchase. Would you recommend that or purchasing in advance. I start mid April and I know this is all weather dependent. Just trying to decide whether to purchase now or on trail. I've never used one so would need to find a place to practice before getting back on trail? How did you handle for 2020?

[@RadishUprooted]

I’d recommend checking out both my “PCT Gear Picks” video on Sierra Gear and my trail vlogs from the “Major Passes” of the Sierra to see how I carried the axe on my pack setup-I go over it in those! As far as San J, you are probably fine with a mid-April start without an ice axe, but conditions may change so you can hitch into Idyllwild from Paradise Valley Cafe to grab one if it looks like you’ll need it. You’re more likely to only need micro spikes. Otherwise, just buy one from Triple Crown Outfitters in Kennedy Meadows before entering the High Sierra! I practiced with my axe before I set out on trail (I also started mid March so I knew I’d need one early on), but if you aren’t purchasing ahead of time, just find a small slope with a safe runout on trail and practice a bunch before you head up to dangerous terrain.

[@TheHikingChick1]

@@RadishUprooted Thank you! That's kinda what I was leaning toward. Just a little sketched out because of what happened to Trevor. I'll go rewatch your videos. I so enjoyed your 2020 trek.

[@RadishUprooted]

For sure, that was incredibly sad. He was super early in the season so conditions were very different from what you may encounter. One week of weather can change everything. Keep on eye on the forecast and Guthook comments, and prepare to hop off trail to get the appropriate equipment if needed! Best of luck, have a blast!

[@TheHikingChick1]

@@RadishUprooted that's the plan! Thank you!

[@wileycoyote556]

It's probably too late for this to be of much help, but if you are on the fence about bringing an ice axe, then check out the camp corsa nanotech. It's aluminum with a steel pick and spike, my wife has one and has found it to work quite well, and it only weighs about 280grams.

[@u37dsb]

Thanks for your video. These basic techniques are very useful to me. If I drop my Ice Axe, could a hiking pole act like an ice axe in some situations?

[@RadishUprooted]

If you drop your axe and find yourself needing to self arrest, use anything you can to dig into the snow and slow your fall. It could be a trekking pole, an elbow, another piece of gear you may have. If you’re worried about dropping your axe, you can look into using a leash-but these have pros and cons for different scenarios so just be sure to read up on them first.

[@darianlow4296]

Great video! I'm new to backcountry travel in the winter but am quite addicted already .. I've taken an avalanche safety skills course but have always been curious at what point/terrain people start using ice axes. I've done some pretty steep routes this year already and I imagine falling on this routes would not be fatal but could lead to unwanted tumbling .. I suppose something slightly steeper / harder may require ice axes. Some trip reports I have read on future routes have mentioned ice axes as a recommendation... Thoughts?

[@RadishUprooted]

Ice axe terrain is really any snowy or icy terrain that if you fell, you could enter an uncontrolled slide or fall. Usually that means a slope of a certain steepness, or dangerous terrain traps below you-but it’s not always limited to just those cases. When in doubt, take one with you, and eventually you’ll get an intuition for where it’s needed and where it’s not. Glad you’re having fun out there, stay safe!

[@darianlow4296]

@@RadishUprooted great thanks for the feedback! Cheers..

[@escapeartist6546]

Is it a good idea to keep the handle spike end elevated? im just thinkn that if you got up speed and accidently dug the end in it might catapult me?

[@RadishUprooted]

It’s highly unlikely given the dynamics of your fall that the spike would “catapult” you. Your main goal is to drive the head of the axe into the snow as quickly and securely as possible, before you begin to pick up speed. Pivoting on your body to leverage your own weight is key. The main concern with the spike is to keep it away from your vital organs (ie down and out).

[@ericclaptonsrobotpilot7276]

Being average height but having short arms is weird when it comes to ice axes. I have to use a Grivel G1 axe that is two sizes longer than it should be to reach the ankle.

[@angelak.french9340]

In practicing, it is relatively easy to grab the shaft near the spike. In reality though, in the split second, how easy is it to find the shaft/spike to grab?

[@RadishUprooted]

It all comes down to muscle memory honestly! Practice, practice, practice until it becomes pure instinct.

[@SenatorNyxen]

Is that adze end for anything in particular? Looked like it was always the pick going into the snow.

[@RadishUprooted]

The adze can be used for cutting steps into ice and also aids in building snow anchors!

[@SenatorNyxen]

@@RadishUprooted thanks!

[@pell222]

Gave this a try today on some closed ski runs probably 25 degrees. I was surprised at how instinctive "keep the feet up" is, because that is what happens when you dig in with your knees, which you need to do to leverage your torso onto the pick. I thought I would have to actively think about that but I didn't and when I stopped and looked my feet were up. Highly recommend a helmet though it was NOT easy to convince my brain to purposefully launch headfirst and backwards down a mountain. I also think that in addition to head up/down, and back up/down, it is also important to practice uphill hand left/right, making 8 positions to practice. I realized that I really favored one side and had to remember to switch. I dont recall if you said it explicitly but i also noticed that you always first move towards where the pick is pointing to get it in the snow ASAP rather than move the pick to some other position e.g. when you fall on your back and have to roll over, you roll towards the pick direction.

[@scottgrafelman2390]

What brand are those gloves, gaiters and crampons?

[@RadishUprooted]

The gloves are Gordini Fuse, gaiters are Outdoor Research Crocodiles, and the crampons are Grivel Steel Air Tech 12pt

[@SigfridSWE]

The crampons you used, brand?

[@RadishUprooted]

They’re the Grivel Air Techs!

[@j.w.2093]

Any tricks for descending slopes instead of climbing?

[@RadishUprooted]

Nothing particular unless you have a specific scenario you have questions about-just keep in mind the majority of injuries happen on the descent so don’t over exhaust yourself on the climb-that’s only half of your trip! Specifically for your ice axe, remember to keep it in your uphill hand even as descending. Depending on the snow conditions you can try plunge stepping (if soft) or side stepping (if crusty).

[@amonster8mymother]

Do I sharpen the adze? When I am walking how do I use A Lanyard to my harness?

[@RadishUprooted]

Unless you hit a bunch of rocks with your adze repeatedly, you shouldn’t need to sharpen it. It’s mostly for cutting in steps to a slope, doesn’t need to be razor sharp (and shouldn’t be). As for a leash, that depends on the terrain and tools you’re using. I tend to not use a leash for glacier axes, as I don’t want it tethered to me if I fall and don’t have a good grip on it. Plus I don’t like switching hands that the leash is attached to with each switch back. If you’re wearing a harness and want to use a leash, you could girth hitch it to that. For anything vertical, you’ll want to use a dual leash for your ice tools and attach them to your harness. Basically think about your tool and terrain in each specific case and choose what you feel is best.

[@amonster8mymother]

@@RadishUprooted ok thanks. I was thi king of girth hitching a walking axe.

[@amonster8mymother]

Is glacier axe and walking axe same?

[@RadishUprooted]

I haven’t heard the term “walking axe” but it might be used in other parts of the world than where I live. My guess is they’re the same. Longer, typically straighter shafts intended for low angle glacier.

[@patrickprice3230]

I use a spork

[@jerryrichards8172]

did I miss the part where you cover the proper hand grip on the tool and why ?

[@RadishUprooted]

Hi there! You should find some info on the correct grip for each use case (self belay, self arrest, etc) during their respective demos. If you have specific questions I didn’t cover, I’m happy to answer them here!

[@healthcoachadrian]

Absolutely no one has a video on how to descend a mountain safely. & that’s where most people get hurt in mountaineering

[@user-ki4cg5xz7i]

Are you sure that's the Raven Pro and not just the Raven? The Raven Pro ice axe has a curve in it where the Raven is straight like in your video.

[@RadishUprooted]

Yep you’re correct! The one we use in the video is the standard Raven model.

[@christyph3382]

Where is your helmet 🪖. Thanks for sharing how to use an ice axe.

[@darian4131]

Sweet jacket. Is than at Atom AR ?

[@RadishUprooted]

Thanks! It’s the Atom LT. Found it in a used gear sale for $50, and it retails for $270😆

[@darian4131]

@@RadishUprooted that’s so sick! How’s the warmth? Would you have replaced your nano puff on the pct with it? Super torn between which to get for my upcoming thruhike! 😓

[@RadishUprooted]

It’s great! Warmer than the nanopuff but also more breathable than the nanopuff. The hood and the sleeve cuffs are extremely well designed. I’d def replace the nanopuff with it (not taking into account the huge price difference).

[@darian4131]

@@RadishUprooted Sick !! Thanks for the response. Just purchased. Bank acct sore but stoke is HIGH

[@Eightball69]

What about self arrest wearing a backpack?

[@RadishUprooted]

It functions the exact same way, but a bit harder to maneuver if you fall on your back. That’s why it’s critical to practice and build that muscle memory for more difficult arrest scenarios.

[@hiddenverses]

How are you liking the BD ice axe? I was wondering how the epoxy is holding up

[@RadishUprooted]

No complaints or epoxy issues so far! I personally like my Petzel Sumit Pro a fair bit better but they are all fine axes.

[@jinx7995]

I don’t even own one it’s just 1Am and I’m sick

[@zoldrin]

1:59 story of my life

[@fouziakhan9324]

Love your fake falls.

[@jaymontgomery3330]

Probably want your crampons off when gissadeing.

[@Chris-tw3jr]

Great video. Thank you!