5 TIPS for training your dog to like GROOMING and NAIL TRIMMING

Are you at a ROAD BLOCK with training your dog to like grooming, handling or nail trimming? Here are 5 game changer tips to get your training back on track!
THE GROOMING RECALL GAME - • The Attention Game! The KEY to this training game is your MOVEMENT. If you think your puppy or adult dog won’t move to you when you move away from him. I suggest first playing this game in multiple training sessions until you have a dog who you can’t get away from. This is the first game I would play with nearly every new puppy or new adult dog.
Often times dogs can be startled by the sight and sound of grooming equipment at first. So instead of jumping right to the step of using the tools, you can condition your dog to find the sight and sound of the tools a positive experience.
Teach your dog to lay on his back for grooming • How to train Upside Do...
How to trim dogs nails with dremel
• The best way to cut yo...
Go to your mat or bed • The EASIEST way to tra...
Settle calmly • Capturing Calmness- ho...
Stand calmly • How to teach your dog ...
Nose targeting • Touch - target trainin...
Paw targeting • How to teach your dog ...
Chin rest • EASY Chin Rest - Dog T...
Chirag Patel’s bucket game: • The Bucket Game Introd...
Chirag Patel’s youtube:
/ domesticatedmanners
Laura Monaco Torelli’s youtube: / lauramonacotorelli
#dogtraining #Puppytraining #grooming

[@Virus-vy7kp]

If my animals could speak they would thank you every day. I'm watching your videos for 5 years now and everything has changed. No more intimidation, no more horsemanship and all the animals are much happier and behave much more the way I want them to do. Positive side effect: I learned English 😀

[@kikopup]

Awe :) Thats awesome. Actually when I first began my career I help this friend of mine in mexico with lessons. He knew no english and now speaks it perfectly because he wanted to learn about dog training. I am afraid my spanish isnt too good though

[@lisah4117]

"Most likely you're watching this because your dog dislikes grooming" - Actually, I'm watching this because all your videos are awesome! I even remembered to click the like button this time

[@lisah4117]

Also, that bucket game is a lifechanger! I just had the most relaxed grooming session with my dog ever. He doesn't dislike grooming (thank goodness, one thing he's not scared of), but he gets bored easily and then wiggles around trying to lick the brushes. I can hardly do his nails because his tongue is constantly in the way. Giving him something to do (staring at the bucket) made him hold still for the first time and he got it almost instantly, which is no surprise, because he loves food.

[@kikopup]

Thanks :) It really helps. Honestly now that I ask people to like comment and subscribe more people see the videos exist! The views are rising so thanks :)

[@kikopup]

Thats so awesome! Chirag Patel is also a really lovely person. :) Hehe I can totally see that "before" scenario in my head.

[@lisah4117]

@@kikopup It's just that almost everyone asks for likes now, and I almost don't hear it any more because I watch lots of videos. But I'll try to do it more! It would be a better world for dogs if everyone knew about your videos.

[@bleuesteel]

I love how you are teaching people to think about training there dog, in a way that works for there dog. Not everything works for every dog, and we need to learn more about troubleshooting in ways to help our dogs learn more and faster.

[@kikopup]

yes thats a great way to put it, troubleshooting

[@judyweikumbenson199]

I like your saying..."It's worth a try."

[@jennifersanteler1063]

Hi Emily-do you have a training chart of daily habits/rituals/games to play with our puppies? There are so many important things to remember to do/practice/train/play, I would love to see a reference chart! Thank you for all of your amazing videos 💗

[@jeanettehopkins1639]

I love the clarity of your explanations. Always so thorough in everything you do x

[@amyrex3575]

I'm excited to watch this, will check back in later, good to see you back ♥️

[@judithmiro2610]

Thank you for this helpful video!

[@tiffanytamboury9548]

Your dog psychology is AMAZING!!

[@gabrielam2144]

I love the idea of trimming one nail at a time on each session, it is such an easy concept yet I don't think we consider it enough, as always, thank you so much for sharing!! 🥰

[@hanachelache66]

Thank you very much!

[@nicolehaworth6871]

I so so appreciate your videos and your energy. This is my first time learning about dog training, and I'm finding myself getting very excited about how positive it can be. Thank you so much.

[@tedjack9184]

Thank you very much for posting. So glad there is good information on husbandry now. Mentioning other trainers: that is broad minded. You are one of a kind.

[@cangel520]

Thank you for such an informative video! I will check out more of ur videos!

[@AddAmilia]

Where have you been my whole puppy mom life?!?!?! Seriously, incredibly helpful and looking forward to a long happy life with my doggie bff.

[@kangakong]

You are brilliant! And beautiful!

[@marilynalberts4508]

Excellent tips!!!!!

[@mikag.6696]

Love your videos!! I've never thought about paying attention of the dog's body temperature for grooming nails. You totally blew my mind😁I'm also one of the person who learnt English from your great videos😻👍Thank you Emily!

[@kikopup]

Awe thats so awesome! I try to speak really clearly because I know a lot of people watch that dont have english as the first language but I do speak fast sometimes... sorry about that.

[@bretyoung1869]

Another great informative video. Thanks for all you do !! You are so sweet too ❤️

[@kikopup]

Thank you so much!

[@hannahkate5495]

Thank you Emily! We have also included consent behaviors in our grooming routine. So our dog has to touch the brush to signal she's happy to be brushed. If she doesn't touch the brush, she doesn't get a treat but she doesn't get brushed!

[@melissasilvestre2442]

Hannah Dingley that is a great description of what consent can look like.

[@kikopup]

Thats a great idea. But its good to also check their body language too as my wish might always want to touch the brush even if she didnt want it because she wants to do the thing I want her to do if that makes sense? She'd walk through fire if I asked her.. Where my chihuahua would totally say "no" if she didnt want to

[@hannahkate5495]

@@kikopup Such a good point! I will be sure to watch her body language too!

[@TeslaNick2]

Brilliant episode ! I was doing some counter conditioning with one of my dogs this afternoon. He hates the noise of my hoover so I've finally got around to helping the poor guy feel a bit better about it. Only two short sessions and he's already braver and now waits outside the room I'm hoovering instead of running up stairs. I find initially using the clicker (well loaded) massively helps get the dopamine spikes to kick start the process. It doesn't take many reps for the avearsive noise to become the predictor of the reward. Also, it's normal for dogs to regress and have off days when it looks like the training has failed, just push through and keep going - as long as overall progress is being made, it's just a matter of practice.

[@kikopup]

Awe thats great :)

[@karengordon9680]

That's a great tip - although I use a clicker and reward method it never occurred to me that if you start clicking and rewarding before=hand it predisposes them to feel good. Though of course, like all good ideas it's obvious once pointed out. Huge thanks!

[@TeslaNick2]

@@karengordon9680 Ahaa, I didn't mean using the clicker before the session. Sorry if I wasn't clear. To clarify: the object of the session is to pair a negative stimulus with something highly reinforcing. I my case I'm ultimately pairing high value food to the sound of the hoover. The hoover noise will predict treats. The clicker helps me create the association quickly because of it's higher "value" due to it's reinforcement history. So the exercise becomes -> hoover noise > click > treat. The click come immediately after the hoover noise. I then wait 20 - 30 seconds before another rep. I want to be sure the dog is connecting the sound of the hoover to the reinforcer, not some other part of the picture (like the rhythm, hand movements etc).

[@emjongill]

Really good tips, thanks!

[@kikopup]

you are welcome!

[@Croqueton]

Nice !

[@FodienArt]

Great tips! I am using a scratch board in the meantime while we work on this. All these small things add up!

[@nrogers1985]

You must have read my mind! I literally asked about the bucket game on a dog page a few days ago but I couldn’t remember the name of it! TY! 🙏🐾

[@caninebehavior]

Bravo, thank you, another great video. I tell everyone to check you out.

[@PotatoQueen1989]

Thank you for this, nail trimming is the worst thing ever for my boy

[@analarson2920]

We have come a long way, but today we had a regression, but she came right back and did not run away when i went to treat and train afterwards. This is typical of her, she loves it more after she has had a good chewing bone. I also found washing her paws to soften the nails. I will consider the sun or warm considerations, espeically since she is older now. Thanks for all these tips.

[@pawsitivelyterriers]

Great video and brilliant to have all the links below, thank you very much

[@kikopup]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/d6CwaqefqJinaMU I also have this new video I just made

[@pawsitivelyterriers]

@@kikopup - brilliant - thank you have shared it

[@kamhyde40]

Ur insights are so welcome. I just took my boy into a groomer --who said 'He hates trail trimming but we got it done'--after saying she'd muzzled him? n he so wanted outta there when I picked him up. He's not a biter n I found that an over reaction so I'm determined to do something better myself. Stop the use of intimidation, thank u!

[@michellearakawa1282]

I used these suggestions for my Shiba's nails---now he just goes limp in my lap while I work, only occasionally lifting his head to check and see if he gets a treat yet. It has been a life saver! Did a similar way with brushing and I can now mostly brush him myself, but he gets really excited and he still hates the slicker. Now if only i could figure out the whole shower thing. I hit on a bucket and rag to introduce him to water more slowly, but there is no way to change up the cues and whatnot. He is calmer if he gets a chance to really really run about and play before hand, but he is still extremely stressed during the water segment. I royally botched that one. He is a quick learner, since I am always teaching him...but this is going to be a tough one. Consistency is impossible because of the whole water thing, too. I'll keep trying until I figure it out, though. I hate how showers stress him.

[@kikopup]

Well every dog has some issue you have to try and crack.

[@michellearakawa1282]

@@kikopup Yup! It's a learning process. I am glad my shiba trusts me enough to let me do what I need to do, though. Some day, I will figure out his fear of water.

[@dortenielsen8253]

Thank you so much, Emily Larlham, for those small but extremely useful advices who can make the difference between success and fiasco. You definitely make a difference for the better in this world with your unexpectedly simple solutions 🤗♥️

[@kikopup]

Awe thanks for the comment, sorry im so behind on answering them!

[@alexareid7049]

I am watching this video BEFORE I get my puppy in 2022. This is how I prepare for my puppy.

[@dabodo932]

Thanks for posting another fabulous & essential tutorial with your expert explanation every time. Very much appreciated. Slightly off topic but I use ear drops on my Cavalier every week as a prentative maintenance. I am always uncomfortable doing this as she makes it clear she doesn't like it at all. She enjoys her ears groomed & pampering just not the drops. Warming the bottle up prior use helps but still uncomfortable for her. Any tips advise in this area would be amazing. As always absolutely loving all what you do & your fabulous channel. Thank you so much.

[@kikopup]

Hmm. You could try using one of those syringes to put the drops in see if that helps. Sometimes when you put ear or eye drops in its hard to do with the actual container and then it takes longer. I also do a thing where there is no "build up" to the event if its something they slightly dislike. So when Kiko is resting on the couch. I have the drops and treats in my pocket, I say "wait for it..." Put a drop in and give a treat. Sometimes that can help. Also something called blocking can help with certain things that are uncomfortable. the human dentists sometimes use it, when they give the injection they pinch you somewhere else so you dont focus on the needle too much. So one thing you can do is massage and scratch the ear you are holding open instead of just holding everything still so the drop is the most noticable.

[@dabodo932]

@@kikopup Hi Emily, thanks very much for your reply & highly valuable advice. Very much appreciated. Fantastic tips & advice as always. I especially like your tip (kind blocking) of massage her ear then drops in the other. Great idea, thank you so much. Think I will get her used to the bottle being near her also so she won’t pre stress on sight of the bottle prior to drops being administered. Thank you so much. Your the best.

[@helend2820]

Thank you for this video! We've been working on paw handling as my dog hates having his nails trimmed (due to a traumatic first trim at the vets...). Now I'm going to watch your dremel video (again) :-)

[@kikopup]

Actually I just put out a video on grooming! This bit starting at 15.57 kzbin.info/www/bejne/d6CwaqefqJinaMU I think might help, its about asking for the paw only 1 time out of 5 - 10 other behaviors

[@helend2820]

Dog Training by Kikopup ahh that you, I’ll watch that one too!

[@helend2820]

*thank

[@martinaluisetti]

awe your tee!

[@TrishHarrison]

Nail trims are so hard for shibas, these are great ideas!

[@kikopup]

Awe. I know. They can be such sensitive pups.

[@LLewis-vu9qf]

I used a dremel tool on my Shiba with no trouble at all from day 1. I guess I was lucky.

[@TrishHarrison]

@@LLewis-vu9qf We have a 11 month old and he's much more keen to the Dremel since we've worked with him on it, but he still doesn't like us holding his paws and actually trimming his nails. Our first two shibas you couldn't even think about the Dremel without them panicking.

[@tylerevansfoothill]

Love this video, thank you! Which grooming tools would you recommend? Ive seen some people say certain tools destroy coats and i would like to avoid that

[@kikopup]

oh my gosh I'm not an expert about that by any means, I would ask someone who is a groomer by profession.

[@tylerevansfoothill]

@@kikopup I will contact someone then 🙂 thank you for your hard work! My dogs are so much happier from implementing your training techniques. Friday we are beginning our journey with your Reactivity Program! So excited for our boy to feel secure in the world again

[@astrid_is_astrid]

I’m just commenting to make it 100

[@Jackysutarrodetierra]

Great stuff! I'd love a compilation video of general safety tips. I've run into some problems when having dog on a long leash (clipped to a harness of course) and I'd love to know your opinion

[@kikopup]

I should make a safety tip video on long lines they are so dangerous

[@Jackysutarrodetierra]

@@kikopup my own dog has had trouble in the past with those. Nothing serious, but I'm now extra careful when she's on one and it's quite impractical because I can't let the leash on the ground to do training stuff because I fear injuries

[@MamaInTheMitten]

My dog doesn't mind washes (if I give them since I know not to get his head wet til last with just a damp rag) but OMG we've had to use both my husband and I, a muzzle, a grinder and shop vac while I'm sitting on him and comforting him and hubby does nails. So I'm taking all these tips in because I hate how bad my dog's nails get but I also hate to torture him, which is what it feels like.

[@verversniki]

I’m looking for some help on handling and trimming my dog, because he is OVER excited. He loves it when he get touched by me, so he can’t stand still and is “biting” in the air, as if we are going to play. How do I teach him to stay calm and this isn’t a game, but still keep it a enjoyable thing to do? 😊 He is only 1 years old, so no need to rush, just looking for some tips to make it easier in the future

[@kelliethorman5953]

I walked in on the groomer trying to groom my labradoodle the other day and I was crying, he was misbehaving so bad and she was so mean and frustrated! It was a shitshow! I’d like to try to do it myself...let the training begin!

[@kikopup]

Oh gosh. I am so sorry about that. What an awful experience.

[@mariiasavenko7090]

Thank you a lot for your video! Is it enough for DS/CC to do training 3-5 times a day for 1-2 minutes each? Should I do more? Will it be faster with higher value treats? Thank you a lot for your work. I enjoy your self study course of Leash walking! Just 5 days of first week program made things be slightly better! You are my hero!

[@kikopup]

You can do multiple training sessions but make sure your dog is still interested in the treats. Sometimes if you train too many times a day the dog can start to become disinterested in the treats because they get so many so many times a day if that makes sense. It would be more effective if the dog is finding the treat highly reinforcing. But an interesting thing happens though if the treat is TOO exciting for the dog... the conditioning is not as effective because the dog is just stressing over the treat. If that makes sense?

[@mariiasavenko7090]

@@kikopup that makes sense. I know that you treat with cheese and chicken, but for my dog it's far too much. He jumps and starts whining, so training is not possible. I have a question of pure curiosity: how much do you train your border collies a day? I mean all the things together. People write everywhere how to train, how long the session should be, but I never seen a recommendation for daily training. I know that it depends on the dog and the day, but should be some general formula, I guess. Thank you very much for your answer.

[@bsteck777]

Hi Emily. My wheaten is perfect for me when I brush his teeth and hair. When my family members try brush him he whines and snarls/snaps at the brush, even when he is barely being touched. I understand he seems to trust me since I've been doing this since he's been a puppy. How do I get him to trust my Mom/Dad when they brush him?

[@dji0205]

How do you get the dog used to the sound and feel of the clippers?

[@7thCobweb]

hi! great video as always! i have a question: u mentioned warmth - how do i actually know my dog is feeling cold? my dog never shows signs like shivering or a cold nose, but i'm a bit worried she might catch a cold some day. she loves snow (and even goes into cold water in the winter without hesitation). this seemed strange, bc she is a german shepherd and i wouldn't know why she is so crazy about snow and ice. do u have any general recommendations? is a bit of extra warmth w a blanket appropriate in the winter? i know warmth helps humans w sore or tense muscles. my dog wouldn't know how to tell me about that, so i wonder ...

[@kikopup]

Hehe. With the feet you just hold them. Tug my terrier has arthritis in his feet so if I hold his foot and its cold... I make sure its warm before clipping his nails. I am not an expert on cold. When I lived in sweden we had heaters the dogs would lay near, and when on walks we didnt go too long and checked to make sure their feet werent getting cold. Splashes feet would feel like hot coals but my little dogs would get cold feet more quickly.

[@7thCobweb]

Dog Training by Kikopup thank u for the answer! it makes sense to watch out for cold feet. i tend to turn down the heat in the living room, bc my dog has itchy, dry skin (allergy with yet unknown cause, but i fear that dry air exacerbates the problem). thanks again!

[@samanthaburns9117]

I'm getting a shitzu cross pug her fur is already long but my last dog HATED being groomed and obviously they can't be muzzled how can I ease my puppy into grooming.

[@lilamacguinness1232]

Thank you for sharing great content I’ve subscribed recommended by Dr pawfessor he’s great too .❤️❤️❤️

[@bluesky4255]

Hello , my problem is my 1 1/2 year old maltipoo gives my groomer a hard time when on the table to be groom , he doesn’t like his chin to be held . What r somethings I can do at home so my dog is not so stressed when he goes to the groomers ? Thank u

[@BoyAmour]

Hi Emily - could you please link the tool you use to drell nails, not cut. ❤

[@kikopup]

www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU0XG4?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_ypp_rep_k0_1_10&amp=&crid=7WT6KIWGVMJ&amp=&sprefix=dremel+dog its 30$ on amazon

[@PanosLa]

What about the opposite of aversion? Overexcitement! When I started to trim my dog's nails, I had the feeling that because she has a high sensitivity level she will just hate it. So, I started to condition her first to the nail clipper, then handling her paw, then handling her toes, then taping the clipper on the nail as I would do when I am trying to position it and finally a small bit at a time. It went great.. however, over time she becomes too excited when she sees the nail clipper. She gets on the bed and she has that look like "yeah, let's do this" which is great... But she moves too much and I am worried that I am going to injure her... She thinks of it as playtime.. she is not avoiding me, she is not trying to escape.. she just becomes playful. Any tips there? 🙂

[@kikopup]

Id work on a calm settle in a specific location, kzbin.info/www/bejne/rZbWnmWFpaqSaMU where you just work on calm stuff, then after its a habit you can add in a little grooming here and there.

[@PanosLa]

Thanks for the reply! I will try to do that 😊

[@donperegrine922]

Yyeesssss

[@brokenangal]

What clippers/grinders do you recommend?

[@kikopup]

I like the brand dremmel

[@ayatrees1974]

Thanks for the great tips Emily❣️ I have a question, I’d be so happy if you reply back to me. My sheltie is totally relaxed laying on her back but when I try to clip it or grind her nails she pulls her paw away quickly. I really don’t know what to do anymore...help please!!🐶

[@kikopup]

I suggest working on the feet where the dog is in front offering them then combine having the dog on the back with holding the feet after she builds confidence. Here is a video at the end that shows where the dog is getting their nails dremeled and then throwing a treat away so the dog has to approach again and offer the foot kzbin.info/www/bejne/d6CwaqefqJinaMU

[@ayatrees1974]

@@kikopup Thank you so much for your tips! I’ll try my best and not to give up!

[@raudelgarcia8096]

What kind of dog is that puppy? It’s so cute

[@kikopup]

The first is a border collie puppy and the second is a german shepherd

[@emmamemma4162]

Such a great video, as always! I have a problem with putting on a collar or harness in a specific situation. If anyone has any suggestions or ideas I would appreciate it! So, my dog does not mind me putting the harness or collar on her before a walk, but when she has been off leash playing with other dogs in the dog park she's nervous to let me get close with the harness or collar. I know it's not because she wants to stay in the park, because I always ask her "do you want to go home?" and she knows to go to the gate or go play with her friends depending on what she feels like doing. The park only has a single gate, so perhaps the problem is that she does not want to be leashed while still inside the park with the off-leash dogs? Sometimes I can get her to follow a command like "wait", "touch" or "between" to get her close enough that I can put on her collar/harness, but she quickly figures out what's going on and then does not listen to those commands when we're at the gate. I'd like to find a solution where I don't outsmart her and grab her, but rather something she will be comfortable with long-term. The park is often empty, so I am able to train with her in the park when there are no other dogs around, there are also similar parks nearby where she does not go as often and does not necessarily exhibit the same behavior, and I have some very special treats she does not usually get that I could use for this training. I'm just not sure what I should ask her to do that is the least uncomfortable behavior for her in this scenario.

[@TeslaNick2]

Practice away from the dog park...lots and lots. Change the "picture" of putting the leash on so she doesn't relate it to your usual "ritual". She may also be experiencing some conflict related to the leash so you may also need to change her mindset towards being leashed. Triggers could include your hand reaching, your physical position (towering over her) and other subtle things you might be unaware of. Break the whole thing down into it's components and work on each component separately which in turn builds a complete "picture" your dog loves. The most important thing to remember is to prepare properly before trying it in the "real world". If you're not successful at home, you will fail in "real life" situations. Sorry it's all a bit vague, but without more information I can only explain the concept.

[@emmamemma4162]

@@TeslaNick2 Thanks, those are definitively some things I should consider! I guess it's the fact that she voluntarily puts her head through the harness/collar at home that makes me unsure about what part of being leashed at the park she dislikes. Maybe I should still be training her to enjoy the process of putting on the collar or harness at home even more, and generalize it to other places than at the front door (lol), and hopefully that should help with the dog park situation as well.

[@kikopup]

@@TeslaNick2 that was awesome :) I try to say " you might be unsuccessful" instead of "you will fail" hehe with clients.

[@TeslaNick2]

@@kikopup Great tip ! Thanks as always !

[@kikopup]

I suggest going to lots of different places in the park, calling her putting her on leash for a milisecond then letting her go play. I know the people at the park will roll their eyes at you... of course in an amazing world you could simply leash her somewhere away from the gate where shes comfortable then walk her to the gate and the other dogs would keep a distance. But that wont happen. There also could be the factor that its just the 1 gate that you have to open it just a little for her to go out, and she doesnt want to leave because she doesnt like going through the tiny opening but I am not sure if that is the issue. The other thing you can do is have a cue called "lets go to the car" and in the car she receives treats or water. That might build the motivation to go to the car. It could also be that she doesnt want to go in the car and the leash is the first predictor of going in the car. If shes reluctant to get in the car at other times this could also be a factor. If it is a combination of factors including the leashing up, then do keep working with leashing up training

[@MK-kz6ob]

😁

[@missylarsson3517]

My dog allows me to cut her nails no problem and I can handle her ears but she had an ear infection and I need to clean them and she really hates the feeling of fluid in her ear. I have trained step by step to get the bottle near her ear but as soon as I put liquid in her ear all trust is ruined, she really hates it and she tries to run away from the bottle and I will have to start over again to get back the trust. Any ideas how to handle this?

[@kikopup]

I suggest getting those 10 cc syringes, and fill it up with just how much needs to go in and then warm it so its not cold, then start massaging all over her head and ears and keep massaging as you put in the drops and after. Scratch the areas she likes on her body after that and you can give her a treat too. By creating other stimuli while the thing you are doing is going on, it makes it less of a shock that it is happening than if the dog is really still and then suddenly the drops hit into the ear canal.

[@missylarsson3517]

Dog Training by Kikopup Thanks I will try some of these tips.

[@i.am.OK.]

Great video, as always! I have a few general questions for you (they aren't related to the video, but I'd love it if you could answer them) : 1. Do "positive trainers" really only use positive reinforcement or do they use other non-aversive methods like negative punishment as well (for those who don't know, that means removal of an appetitive stimulus aka reward) ? Because that's technically not an aversive method, or is it? 2. In what category would body blocking fall? Is that negative punishment (because it blocks the dog's way to the stimulus), or is it just considered management, or ...? 3. I've heard trainers say that gentle leaders/head collars are aversive. Is that true, and if yes, why? 4. I've read about methods on the topic of how to pick a puppy which include: - laying the puppy on its back and placing your hand over its throat to determine if the puppy is dominant (it struggles a lot) or submissive (it holds still) - whining while laying on the ground to determine if the puppy acknowledges you and runs up to you. This is supposed to show whether it is "easy to train". - making a noise like throwing your keys on the ground to determine the puppy's noise sensitivity I feel like there are too many factors which could alter the result of these tests, like distractions, or whether the puppy is tired or just woke up etc. So, what are your thoughts on these methods? Do they really work, aren't they uncomfortable and intimidating for the puppy (especially the first one)?

[@kikopup]

1- Here is the training manifesto I wrote… progressivereinforcementtraining.com/manifesto/ the need for a new term in dog training, because the term “positive trainer” really means nothing and everything. So I cant answer your question regarding people who call themselves positive because I know a lot of trainers and they all do different things and call themselves positive. So I avoid that term. I suppose the common term is “force free” but I avoid that term too… And say I train using Progressive Reinforcement Training as defined in the manifesto. Here is a video were I talk about how to interrupt undesirable behavior without resorting to physical or psychological intimidation.- kzbin.info/www/bejne/r33VZJSjmp6Dqs0 This video talks about creating a behavior modification plan I think it will make more sense kzbin.info/www/bejne/bKeknGxuZZVjrcU People who train similarly to me / use Applied Behavior Analysis concentrate on changing antecedents to prevent rehearsal of the undesirable behavior while building a stronger NEW behavior to replace undesirable one. For example, if the dog barks out the window, keeping the curtains closed and music on inbetween sessions and training the dog in small achievable steps the new behaviors that are desired when looking at things out the window. Negative reinforcement is sometimes used by trainers when things go unexpectedly, say for example when my BC was reactive to dogs, another dog would appear from around a corner, and she was still calm, Id tell her how good she was and I would create distance. But the way I train, I would just use counter conditioning with the importance being on not over stressing the dog and being able to read the dogs behavior. A “positive” trainer who doesn’t know how to raise or lower criteria or read body language can end up raising criteria too quickly when doing Counter conditioning and actually is using positive punishment by mistake (punishing the dog for standing calmly and instead now the dog is barking etc) but again I don’t think in the quadrants. Its really hard to know if something is in a quadrant because its only the dogs future behavior that tells you. Using quadrants to explain things is in my opinion is useless. Even BF Skinners daughter Dr Julie Vargas who I spoke alongside at a conference said that her dad never talked in terms of quadrants and he invented them. My colleges use a technique called CAT especially for circumstances where nothing else can be done… For example, in a zoo, when people enter the cage to clean or feed the animal the animal panics and freaks out… Its causing the animal undue stress. Using a technique based on negative reinforcement, they can improve the quality of the animals lives. The trainer could move toward the enclosure, the animal alerts and looks at the trainer, then the trainer stands there in the least threatening way, and when the animal continues to go about his business. The trainer leaves. The trainer keeps doing this over and over and getting closer over training sessions until the animal no longer panics when seeing the trainer come and then can start working for food because they are not stressed. The thing is… you could call this desensitization… So again… I really am not a big fan of the quadrants as to me its ALL about reading the animals signs of stress. If your puppy was humping another puppy and you pick your puppy up and he humped less in the future… someone could put that in the box of negative punishment… or if your dog was barking and you stroked him and he barked less in the future… positive punishment. So you can see talking about quadrants its REALLY subjective… For me its all about how the dog looks. I made this video on reading dogs body language in training sessions kzbin.info/www/bejne/pXLOaZiDh62MoLc 2. People and trainers tend to “label” things as intrinsically aversive/punishing or reinforcing. This video might interest you kzbin.info/www/bejne/bWK3Z35vfrpshpI Watch the bit with the microphone, you can see I could If I wanted turn it into something punishing and aversive to my dog just through conditioning or turn it into something reinforcing… Some people actually turn giving treats to there dog as a punisher. .. Some things most dogs (and people) find intimidating without any prior training like being leaned over, stared at, walked into, touched, restrained or blocked. The way I train is that if I am going to do any of these things to a dog I would want to condition the dog to have a positive emotional response to the stimuli first before doing them. A video on Teaching a dog that a person moving into them is simply a cue to back up kzbin.info/www/bejne/pHOkq2Ohpsp9j8k Conditioning a collar grab kzbin.info/www/bejne/bGOxf6qQqcenf6M Conditioning pressure on leash to have a positive emotional response and be a cue to mean move toward me kzbin.info/www/bejne/h2XZdpSvp7eseJI The key is reading the dog to see if they are having a positive emotional response or a negative emotional response and that can help you know if something is possibly a punisher or a reinforcer to the dog. 3. For me equipment and gear is about if it can be causing the dog pain, physical discomfort or is a risk to their physical health. I don’t use the gentle leader because if the dog hits the end of the leash it twists the dogs neck and a lot of times it can cause discomfort and damage around the eyes. I don’t use collars because they can damage the neck when pressure is added. But some harnesses can be just as damaging as collars. People label equipment, but each dog is an individual and each dog decides whats reinforcing punishing or aversive. For some dogs being stared at or touched gently is probably more aversive than another dog being kicked or choked… In a previous video I linked you can see you can condition anything to be a punisher… and you can condition something painful to be a reinforcer (think animal husbandry and blood draws). And things are fluid and change over time… So at some point the dog might like his harness then one day something happens and he now refuses to put it on… etc. While another dog has a positive emotional response to putting on and wearing a gentle leader or a muzzle because the owner conditioned it to be a strong reinforcer. 4. I have never heard of these tests. But there are some that do puppy temperament tests… But honestly… A lot of service dog breeders and trainers find the tests have 50% 50% results but Ive never heard of the tests you talk about, those sound a little bit like they are from old wives tales. I myself see things in young puppies that would be big red flags but they are based on my own experiences and learning. Big red flags are signs of resource guarding or antisocial behavior for me.

[@TeslaNick2]

@@kikopup Best reply to that question ever ! I call myself a "conflict free" trainer (to try and avoid being pigeon holed. I've done my best to be as force free as possible, but having discovered the power of the judicial use of pressure/release to guide and motivate, I'm not force free. The bottom line is to look at the dogs. Dog training is an art and every trainer is unique.

[@i.am.OK.]

@@kikopup WOW thank you SO much for taking the time to answer my questions so elaborately! Now I finally understand why there is such a controversy around the quadrants and why you always speak about "trainers which don't use physical or psychological intimidation" and not about "positive trainers". And although I technically knew that many things are subjective in dog training, your explanations have made everything a lot clearer. I have to stop thinking in categories so much; I now see that I was simply confused by all the different labels trainers give things, because they often contradict each other, while it really depends on the individual dog. That's also why I asked my first question; I've seen so many "positive trainers" do so many different contradictory things. I realised I should forget a lot of things I was told or "learned" (from so-called positive trainers!) about dog training before I found your channel. I never believed in any form of training relying on punishment, but when I first started researching dog training, I was simply unaware of the fact that the title "positive trainer" doesn't guarantee that the trainer really uses the type of training associated with this term. (And about these strange puppy tests, I honestly thought that they were, well, trash, but I wasn't sure :p) Thank you again for clearing up all my doubts, you are absolutely amazing! PS: I love your manifesto, it feels like the exact description of all the things I want dog training to be :)

[@TipsyTurvy17]

@@kikopup ]

[@_fukunicorn_164]

My beagle freaks as soon as I grab a cotton ball cuz he knows he’s getting his ears cleaned. Even if I grab them from a new area. He gets real scared and even snaps at me if I get close just to let him sniff it, which he does in no other situations. I think I’ve successfully cleaned them twice and it didn’t seem traumatic at the time but he cannot handle it now.

[@kikopup]

Im sorry you are experiencing that. You could try giving him a bath and while you are going over with the towel you casually go into the ears with a soft wash cloth, for a second before then going to towel dry areas he loves to be rubbed and scratched. Sometimes its just that its invasive, sometimes it can be that there is an issue in the ear. Perhaps a yeast infection etc. So its good to while hes sleeping lift the flap and look in with a flash light to see if its infected.

[@_fukunicorn_164]

He’s been scratching one of them a lot lately. He will let me look and it doesn’t look infected but, ya. Anyway, good tip. I’ll try that, thanks. You’re the best!

[@bicnarok]

As soon as our dog sees the nail clipper, or even senses sonething is going to happen she runs off, never cut her nails.

[@OrgnlProductions]

My new Pom pup loves bathes but HATES being brushed🤦‍♂️

[@davidrhodes4300]

You went on and one with out ever showing the subject nail trimming. Felt like it was mostly filler on your part.