Why English Boot Making Is Dying | London Update With Shoemaker Dominic Casey | Kirby Allison

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WHAT IS KIRBY WEARING
Jacket - Navy double-breasted jacket from Hemrajani Brothers/Divij.com
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Shirt - Bespoke Charvet Dress Shirt, White @charvet_official
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Tie - Sovereign Grade Amber Daisy 36oz Printed Silk Tie www.kirbyallis...
Braces - Albert Thurston bit.ly/2GjMN4k
Pants - Dark Grey Thin Moresca Trousers by Hemrajani Brothers / Divij Bespoke
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Socks - Sovereign Grade Super-Fine Over-the-Calf 920L Cotton Dress Sock
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Why Boot Making Is Dying | London Update With Shoemaker Dominic Casey | Kirby Allison
00:00 Introduction
01:19 Is Dominic Casey still making shoes
01:27 Almost getting stuck In New York
02:44 Why boot making is dying
05:49 Passion projects
06:15 Talking about Wellington boot and history of it
07:32 How a bespoke or custom boot is made
08:11 What's interesting about Wellington boots
09:01 Dominic judges Kirby's Balmoral pattern building
09:51 Secret addition to the Balmoral pattern
11:29 Benefits of relationship with an independent shoemaker
12:14 The mock-up and design process explained
13:41 How Dominic helps his clients find their perfect shoe design
15:32 Going through and discussing punching samples
18:52 Kirby and Dominic discuss the Burgundy leather samples
21:57 Kirby talks about why he likes the smaller punching in black pig skin
25:48 Kirby comes to a decision, but which shoe should be made first?
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DOMINIC CASEY CONTACT AND SOCIAL
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In this newest installment of Kirby Allison's London update series he takes a virtual trip to visit his good friend and bespoke shoemaker Dominic Casey and finds out how he's doing and what's in store for future businesses and how lockdown is effecting his ability to visit and work with clients in America. Viewers also get a sneak peek at what the next shoe Dominic is working on for Kirby as they discuss samples, punching and Kirby's decision on what kind of bespoke shoe he's looking to add to his collection.

[@greatbritain5626]

In the equestrian world, I’d argue that most riders go to more specialist boot making companies. I’m not impugning their work. But a lot of equestrians I know go to places like Schneider boots in London, and Horace Batten in Northamptonshire. As these focus purely on riding boots. Also the best boots a rider could wear, are fox hunting boots, which are made from stiff wax calf leather - perfect for years of riding.

[@corneliuswerhahn1220]

1:59 I am glad for Dominic! He is my role model in terms of customer relationship! Thank you Kirby for appreciating his craftsmanship!

[@RHBootmakers]

Really great video Kirby thanks for sharing 🙂 In the 1980’s and 1990’s my father was a well known custom cowboy boot maker in the San Jose, Ca area. My two older brother used to help him out making patterns and sewing the uppers while my dad took measurements and did making. It’s great to see Dominic speaking on boot making it really is going to become a lost art.

[@Iberian247]

Sir Dominic! What a treat. Thank you for passing down your knowledge to the next generation. Thank you Kirby for promoting these traditions.

[@austinhalvorson2041]

Great way to start thanksgiving morning. Happy thanksgiving everyone! An thank you Kirby for covering this, the boot making greatly intrigues me.

[@jasondortch2313]

I just had Stephen Lowe make a pair of trees for my Dehner fox hunting boots. He is absolutely amazing to work with. I took my boots over to England in December and within a month they were back. He suggested Schneiders for my next pair and I plan to get fitted for those this December.

[@ChristineARose]

I would so love boot making (English), to be done in a format, such as video, to continue the craft. Such knowledge would be so much more accessible to people all over the world. I've learned so much in just this afternoon of watching earlier videos with Dominic. But then, if the boot making knowledge was indeed preserved,,,,,,, What about the trees for the boots? I'm excited, yet sad all at the same time.

[@kirbyallison]

We are working on it!!

[@bish1979Gaming]

Great video and a big G’day from Australia Kirby, enjoying it with an Islay 10yr old single malt and a Fuente Hemingway Short Story. Kindest Regards, Mark

[@donovankirrane3058]

Few things better than waking up to Kirby on Thanksgiving morning! One of those things? Waking up to Kirby and getting a new goal: afford a pair of Casey and Co boots

[@SCRAMBY18]

Waiting to see Kirby's Texas Traditions boots!!

[@Ty_N_KC]

Me too! How first video is what brought me to the channel. I've been impatiently waiting for 4 days for my Ostrich boots, I couldn't imagine waiting over 3 yrs.

[@TheRacso2552]

I was fortunate enough be able to serve at the Swedish Royal Guards of Horse as a cavalry man a few years back so we got to ride with riding boots like that. I remember some of my fellow cavalry couldn't find any pairs that fit properly from the storage at base to they got their own bespoke ones, all paid for haha.

[@OliGreenaway]

It would be wonderful if Kirby commissioned a pair of boots from Dominic. Being able to document the whole making process would not only be unique and interesting to watch but act as a valuable archive of bookmaking skills and knowhow which are close to being lost forever.

[@kirbyallison]

On the bucket list! I actually am very keen to do an entire series in boot making. I find the subject so fascinating, and there is no information available about it.

[@MustafaHirji]

Suggestion: I would love to have a video with Dominic Casey where he goes over the various styles of long boots. Unlike shoes, I don't think most of us know the styles of long boots, and he'd be the expert who could teach us all!

[@minnesota-hk1vp]

Dominic Casey what a gentleman

[@Iberian247]

They’re going to be nice shoes: Option 1: Deep Burgundy (almost black) with no cap and add a nice medallion. Maybe create your own standard medallion like The Prince of Wales has. Perhaps the medallion could take the form of a bird’s eye view of a canon firing a shot. Option 2: Deep Burgundy (almost black) and use the Anthony Cleverly punching to create a faux cap along the vamp. No medallion.

[@DJ-jq8if]

Hey Kirby, had a question regarding the care of Kudu leather. Want to take advantage of your Black Friday sales and snag some show care for my new boot. Am I able to call during business hours and get a list of things I need for care?

[@Jim58223]

Honestly go with the pig skin with the small punching. It's unique but versatile enough to go with most outfits. I also feel like Dominic was more into that design too.

[@redwoodsquirrel432]

Those suede shoes that Dominic made you are absolutely beautiful. I spent most of the video looking at them😃

[@kirbyallison]

Haha. Lovely shoes.

[@johncas1]

Wellington boots officially are worn by army officers and are leather sanders make them in the UK where not talking about the rubber ones you wear in the garden

[@johncas1]

Do you have a pair of boots great for winter Kirby

[@TrondOleJensen]

Hey is there a special shoe tree for Chelsea boots?

[@harryvendryes]

Some years ago, RM Williams sold special boot trees for all their Chelsea models. Since being hoovered up by LVMH, I've no idea if that's still the case. Its defining feature is that the front of the wooden block sweeps upwards, higher than on a normal shoe tree, providing pressure against the beautiful curved leather front of the Chelsea. Note: there is nothing to fill the funnel neck of the boot, but as they are unlike the ones in this video it really doesn't matter. Never found then to flop or sag using these trees. I found the largest size to amply fit my enormous boots. Hope that helps :-) Edit: let me go and check... Okay... boot is size 12H and the XXL fits nicely. They are (maybe just were ) made form that higher quality wood (cedar?). Unpolished with lots of grain. There's a nailed in brass plate and leather pulling tong. The mechanism is the single sprung bar variety, with a single lump of non-expandable wood to fill the front of the boot only. Wow!... I'm becoming a shoe nerd.

[@edf2953]

I’ve never seen a Chelsea shoe tree. I’m only familiar with shoe trees which are generic to many if not most styles of boots. You might consider checking with Woodlore, a subsidiary of Allen Edmonds, a U.S. based shoemaker. You can go to www.woodlore.com and look for Woodlore’s shoe tree which is made of quality cedar unfinished wood. I use them for all my styles of boots and they seem to get the job done. Good luck...Ed

[@harryvendryes]

@@edf2953 Yep, think you're right on this Ed F. Seem to recall someone mentioning the RMW trees were just rebranded Woodlore models. The addition of brass logo plate and leather tong hardly justified the 1000000% price increase. RMW are no longer the cheap work boot they once were.

[@omkarande7375]

Sir which is the higher quality of the leather sole, what name of higher quality leather sole?

[@surinderjitsingh8954]

It's one of those colonial things I adore

[@sheet-son]

Use a 3d scanner to scan a model of a clients foot/leg and then 3d print or cnc the boot trees. Problem solved.

[@Ayztv]

Great

[@omkarande7375]

Hi sir. Am from india I want to know which Lether is good quality, carrected grain leather or full grain leather?

[@kirbyallison]

Full Grain Leather is higher quality than corrected grain.

[@surinderjitsingh8954]

But I'm learning boot & shoemaking next year in Florence

[@edwarner3826]

Boot making isn't dying. Go to Paul Bond Boots.

[@johncas1]

Thats cowboy boots where talking English riding boots leather Wellington boots

[@edwarner3826]

@@johncas1 they will make whatever you want.

[@Javi_C]

:)

[@lindensd6273]

I am looking for vintage traditional western American cowboy riding boots but you will not find anything similar or in good quality. These new boots are gross and ugly. The shape and colours are disgusting.

[@MikeFreesinger]

Too too bad you've contracted covidiacy 😱

[@kirbyallison]

Beg your pardon?

[@MikeFreesinger]

@@paul-gs4be Ya I was born in Wuhan with a virtue signaling face diaper on 😂

[@gqedpbeicq]

so british

[@surinderjitsingh8954]

Pardon me, I love boots, but bookmaking is little colonial