Pitts S-1D Rebuild #1

[@scottyeo6417]

Just a suggestion in place of sand or bead blasting the air frame look into, having it blasted with Walnut shells. It is less destructive then both sand and bead.

[@TheTigerpilot]

Awesome to see! looking forward to more videos around the Pitts as I am currently rebuilding one here in NZ. I do like the idea of the fuel cap fairings!!!!

[@Gmoney_72]

As I do little things on my plane. You have set a new bar. Just doing the carpet isn’t enough. Now I am constructing all new trim pieces. I’ll take the flitz to my ignition next. I’ll need a second hangar soon. One flying plane and at least one project plane. Someone has to save these things.

[@joshuaclark9831]

God that Super Duty is Beautiful, and as an 82nd Airborne Veteran probably a similar scheme to what I would use. I just started my PPL training in a Cirrus SR20, I’m debating between STOL plane or something like TL stream that has more of a fighter feel. I guess time will steer me towards my mission. Late start in GA for me at 49, but I can finally afford it. Great Channel!

[@trevorfurlotte]

thanks for the video. The pitts is what brought me to your channel.

[@danielbasovitch5087]

Mark, 304,304L & 316 are all Stainless Steels. To drill these properly use Cobalt bits and a slow RPM for the best results. You can either Polish the surface to a mirror finish or Burnish the surface with Scotch Brite pads to get a beautiful Brushed finish. You just need to make sure you use pressure and continuous linier strokes all the same direction. I am a retired Stainless fabricator & welding repair Shop for kitchens and accessories.

[@KitplaneEnthusiast]

I’ll have to get some detailed instructions from you on how to polish it. It sure would look good super shiny!

[@danielbasovitch5087]

You can also do an old time swirl look with a cheep buffer and Scotch Brite pad attached. Start with a Green pad then go to a Red pad. Common stuff at a good hardware store.

[@loveplanes]

Soooo cool… thanks for sharing

[@jaideld1]

when using a white top coat you should use a buff primer , it take less paint to cover the undercoat saving weight on the air-frame and always looks a brighter white

[@GrimshawAviation]

what happened to your recent videos?? They disappeared

[@danielbasovitch5087]

are you going to get the Fuse frame Sand blasted so that you can verify that there are no more Cracks or breaks anywhere else?

[@KitplaneEnthusiast]

It's easy to inspect for cracks even though it's primed. The fuselage is in great shape. There's just a few issues on the front half and those issues are 100% due to improper build.

[@duncanclausen8906]

Just a thought, have you considered getting the welding done before bead blasting thereby eliminating the risk if getting the bead media in the frame.

[@KitplaneEnthusiast]

I can't weld on a painted tube, so the paint has to be removed before sand blasting. I may strip the paint off the areas that need welded, then weld, then have the whole thing blasted.

[@danielbasovitch5087]

Mark, are you going to use Plain steel or Stainless Steel for the fire Wall?

[@KitplaneEnthusiast]

It's 304 steel, but off hand I'm not sure if it's stainless or regular steel.

[@johnfitzpatrick2469]

G,day Mark from Sydney Australia. Has your paint booth enough mechanical ventilation to remove paint particles from the air? Do you wear a respirator? 🌏🇦🇺

[@KitplaneEnthusiast]

Yes. If I just point the paint gun in the air and pull the trigger, the paint particles immediately turn and head for the exhaust fan. I do still wear a resp but about 2 minutes after I’m done painting a part I can go in the booth without it and barely smell anything. The booth works really well.