I REGRET Doing This!

[@josfielden8622]

Mark, Viking supplies a (not very cheap, over $200, but nice, aluminium casting) spacer which gives a bit of added protection against an accidental prop strike. It gets bolted on top of the fork and the stem bolts on to its top. Two holes in the side of it makes it very convenient for the Zenith tow bar to be inserted. I really like the way you do everything. I am learning a lot while I build my 750 STOL

[@flyingkub]

I am sorry to say this but wouldn't it have been better to do the priming after the cross tube had been welded in as you will need to protect it and the leg (as the paint will burn off the area near the weld)? We normally use a wax film inside tubes. Like the can tip.

[@KitplaneEnthusiast]

Well, would you rather have your gear leg sit there for two or three weeks rusting away while you get a tube and make time to take it to get welded, or would you rather prime it now to prevent rust, and then drop in some more primer after it’s welded to cover any areas where the primer got burned off?

[@flyingkub]

@@KitplaneEnthusiast I would just put a bag of desicant near the end, keep in a warm dry place. The wax we use would penetrant and coat the fine surface rust if it formed and prevent further rusting. The problem with paint is if rust gets under it the protection is lost.

[@davejoynt6276]

Oh jeese, you are so right.

[@KitplaneEnthusiast]

@@SR-gs8zo I was going to offer an explanation to my process but after reading your massively long run-on sentence I have no idea what you are even trying to say. Perhaps when you complete the third grade you could try again?

[@SergePage-h7b]

@flyingkub 👍

[@darrenweston7549]

Hi Mark I drilled my Cruzer fork leg with it in place once the aircraft was completed, all worked out good, I also put in an S shape bend in the tow bar so it clears the front spat and prop.

[@richardturner6278]

Really enjoy your videos. I have been watching and learning for a couple of years now. Hopefully it will help me on my 701 build . You might want to think about drilling and installing that tube without welding now you have the inside primed. Any welding you do will melt all that primer surrounding the weld. You will have to go back and prime the inside all over again if you weld on it. I dont think its critical that it be welded anyway since its just for moving the airplane on the ground. Just my 2 cents worth. Anyway keep up the good work and i look forward to meeting you on day at a fly in or maybe on an airplane camping trip someday. Really appreciate the videos.

[@nathanmcguire1449]

Really really enjoy the content : ) Glad you do what you do!!! Great insight on a ton of things in your videos. This is the kind of video I really look for.

[@davelastowski2158]

Oh the set backs eh! But hey....all issues with the gear have been worked out...good stuuf...another great video..more...more...lol...oh and i like the tape on the paint can trick.. Cant wait to try it..i usually just punch holes along the rim with a nail..

[@KitplaneEnthusiast]

It’s a set back but that’s how I learn. I don’t always do things correctly the first time. It costs me $15 and some time to fix this issue, but now it’s in the memory bank for all future builds!

[@snowgoer540]

Primatex gasket remover makes short work of powder coat. As does aircraft (brand) paint stripper. I’ve used both successfully in the past, both are readily available at the auto parts store

[@KitplaneEnthusiast]

I originally was thinking of using the gasket remover because I heard that it removes powder coating. But then I researched it more and watched a lot of videos on KZbin about it and to me it just didn’t do a great job of removing it. I’m pretty happy with the $15 I paid to have it professionally removed! I think was cheaper than buying the gasket remover LOL

[@snowgoer540]

Indubitably; I didn’t intend to question your method, just to let you know of additional options in case you were previously unaware. Have a great day! 😊

[@KitplaneEnthusiast]

@@snowgoer540 It would still be interesting to try the gasket remover sometime. I’d like to see for myself how it works. I’ll have to see if I have any scrap metal that’s powder coated.

[@LTVoyager]

I think coating the inside of tubes like that with oil is likely more effective than primer. It is hard to get the inside of drawn tubes completely clean from oils used during manufacturing and the primer may not adhere long term. And flaking primer can actually hold condensation in place and accelerate rust. I think that is why tube style fuselages are oiled inside the tubes rather than primed.

[@SergePage-h7b]

Fling kub 👍

[@davidkoogler5266]

Two words. BEST TUGS ! You can do it!!

[@KitplaneEnthusiast]

If only the Cruzer could haul around the tug! A Best Tug would be awesome for the hangar tho.

[@johntyrone307]

You can tape off the top with with high temperature tape, then powdercoat the rest. That's what I did. Seems to work okay

[@KitplaneEnthusiast]

That’s what I want to but I’m guessing that will burn off the primer on the inside. Maybe I’ll get the bottom repowder coated and then prime the inside again?

[@greket1]

They can probably powder coat the inside, too. My headers were coated inside and out. The cross tubes may cause issues, I suppose. Worth asking.

[@wb6anp]

instead of the towbar how bout a remote control tow dolly. It goes under the nose tire and and you drive it remotely

[@KitplaneEnthusiast]

That would work for the hangar, but I can’t take it with me!

[@scottroberts5625]

SPI great paint, thanks for the recommendation from earlier video. I use a 1 ounce ladle from W** mart to transfer to paint cup, you don't get any paint in paint can rim (ever), plus if mixing small batches like in this operation it's easy to mix the activator in correct amount too. Easy paper towel clean up as well.

[@woodturner1954]

Gave up flying due to age so flying videos are 'almost' never boring.

[@Ronzola1]

Seems as though it would have been much easier to use a drum sander to remove a thin layer from the inside of the pucks.

[@KitplaneEnthusiast]

Actually I spoke with a guy that tried that. Doesn’t work!

[@alanverity341]

Bogert aviation make a really nice tow bar that fits across the axle. I didn't like the idea of drilling through the nose leg and potentially compromising its strength.

[@rocroc]

My first thought was why drill a hole to begin with? Surly there is a way to grip both planes and move them as needed. Make an attachment for the tow bar and sell it in the online store.

[@simitarknut2201]

Do split collars come big enough to go around the nose gear leg? I'd weld the tow tube to one of those before I would drill into the nose gear.

[@edwomer2969]

Kinda of interesting after you have built a few planes that you don't know or have used flap wheels on an angle grinder. I have been into the car racing scene for nearly 40 years and when the flap wheels came on the scene I was ecstatic to say the least. they are very good at sanding and polishing things. I have done frame repairs for some people and when they bring in a chassis that has powder coating I usually tell them it will be hard to remove the powder coating before I can weld. The really tough spots are inside corners in tight locations. People really like powder coating since it is a nice and pretty tough surface coating for rust protection. That is fine if you are making something for show but not for things that might get damaged. Obviously race cars fall into that but so do planes that get used for bush flying. For those who are assembling projects for show that is great, but not good if there ever is the possibility for damage that would need welding repairs. Ed

[@KitplaneEnthusiast]

Also interesting that you’d pop in, watch one video, and tell me I don’t know about flap wheels. I think I have about 4-5 videos showing me using those flap wheels. And you certainly haven’t used a flap wheel if you think a flap wheel could be used to completely remove the powder coating on this gear leg.

[@edwomer2969]

I was surprised to see an email from KZbin this morning. When I opened it I saw your response to my question. I didn't realize you would be so touchy about asking why you never tried a flap wheel to remove powder coating. I have NOT watched all of your video's so might not have seen you use them. If you actually read my response, I have used them to remove powder coating especially for weld repairs on steel tubing. They do work if you use the course grade. I didn't say they were perfect, but way better than trying to file it off. I didn't mean to try and insult you. I have been watching KZbin for a couple of years and really like seeing what other people have done differently than I have. But one thing I quickly realized is not everyone does things the same. When it gets to something I do and have for many years and have tried different ways to get things done, and see that I wasn't happy with that approach. I just made an observation and didn't think you would be so upset. Ed@@KitplaneEnthusiast

[@brucemorton13]

Just curious: Will the heat from welding in the other tube effect the integrity of the primer protecting the inside of the strut near that point? Or, are you already planning to re-prime the new tube anyway?

[@KitplaneEnthusiast]

Yes I plan to dump in a little more primer after the other tube gets welded. I wanted to prime it right away though to prevent rust from starting on the inside. Who knows how long it will be until I get that tube and take it to get welded!

[@keen1957]

I wonder what an anodized coating, where the pucks ride, would cost. Or even chrome?

[@rickwiggins283]

If I recall correctly from the earlier video, some folks said they just jube it up real good for slickness as well as corrosion protection.

[@jamesneirinck413]

I used the best silicone grease I’m aware of which is the Honda Shinetsu silicone grease. I use this wherever silicone grease is needed. Works very well, prevents corrosion and parts slide/move easily.

[@pilotarix]

What I learned today, is do not powder coat the nose gear leg and, prime it inside. 👍 Your videos are really invaluable for a Zenith builder. However, if I am following all your little tips I will likely need more than a decade to finish my Super Duty. 😂

[@n206ja]

On the tape trick for pouring paint, I extend the tape straight out to form a V-shaped end and then pour ... otherwise, you have wipe the paint off if the tape is turned-down and can still run down the side of the can. In areas where you can't easily slosh a tube with primer, such as the spar carry-through on the cabin frame, I used SEM cavity wax. It comes with a flexible tube with a fogger tip so you can fog the interior of the tube with the sealer wax. You can extend the flexible tube with polyethylene tubing if you need to get down a really long tube such as the interior of a strut, etc.

[@KitplaneEnthusiast]

Where did you get the SEM wax?

[@LTVoyager]

I’ve used the tape trick for years also and found it works great on water based paints, but not so much on solvent based paints. I suspect the solvent softens the tape adhesive and lets it come loose. This trick worked great with the Stewart Systems paint, but when I switched to Axalta (formerly Imron), the tape came loose almost instantly and made a mess.

[@johnfitzpatrick2469]

I'm a little hesitant to drill through the steel nose wheel tube for the towbar kit and bolt. Purely because of decreasing structural strength. What about from the wheel axle? 🌏🇭🇲

[@rickwiggins283]

Looking good. After reading the comments from your last video I thought you'd probably choose to replace or strip that strut. I would have done the same. ;-)

[@jamesneirinck413]

Another option for corrosion protection inside 4130 steel tube which is easier, but also a bit messy, is the tried and true boiled linseed oil. Creates a waxy like film coating on the inside of the tubes. It’s low cost, you can recover what drains back out and use it in other tubes, and just simply works.

[@KitplaneEnthusiast]

Very true. But what’s easier-using primer I have right there, or going out and finding and buying oil?

[@jamesneirinck413]

Agreed if you have that material on hand then use it. My comment was aimed for those watching your video and reading the comments to provide another alternative or option. Good luck with the build.

[@sipet214]

Just wondering, wouldn’t it be cheaper to get a new part instead of removing powder coating.

[@KitplaneEnthusiast]

That was my initial thought. But the 8 holes in the bottom of the gear leg are matched drilled to the nose gear fork. If the holes in a new gear leg did not exactly match the original holes, then I’d also have to replace the fork. I spent more in gas driving back and forth from the paint strippers than the $15 they charged me to remove the powder coating!

[@rodfrank7617]

Why not remove the powder coating only in the area of the pucks?

[@KitplaneEnthusiast]

Two reasons: first, you can’t just bake the top of the gear leg to melt it off. And I didn’t want to blast it off because I want the metal smooth so I can polish it. Second, I want to weld in the little tube at the bottom which means I’d have to remove the powder coating around that area too.

[@user-tl5fi9lz9z]

Don’t powder coat the front landing gear strut. Got it! Count your pucks. Got that, too!

[@electoplater]

i would never powder coat anything on a aircraft its rubbish , a nasty cheap finish great for cheap items rust encouraged by the micro pores in the powder , before i get shot down i owned 2 powder coating companies in the uk

[@wiplashsmile]

Instead of drilling holes in the gear leg, why not fabricate a clamp-on attachment?

[@michaelspunich7273]

Or just weld some nubs on the strut for the tow bar to grab hold of.

[@KitplaneEnthusiast]

That just might be a great idea!!

[@Tryagain205]

Good thing your viewers give two pucks…

[@Tryagain205]

Forkin’ Pucks…