KLX300 Test Ride with NO Secondary Plate!!!

OK, now I finally get to see what ALL the hype is over removing the SECONDARY THROTTLE PLATE in my KLX300 dual sport! Will it be a transformational mod? Will it be a big an epic fail? Or, will it be somewhere in the middle?
Come with me as I do a little pavement and a little off roading with the newly modified Kawasaki KLX300!

[@mikemathews1711]

I removed the secondary throttle plate by removing the gas tank, the rubber inlet as you showed in your video and rotating the throttle body upwards to use a screw driver. I was really easy vs the duration of special drilling and metal filings in your video. The screw is not flatten on the rear and it will screw right out...no drilling or destroying the screw is necessary. With the Twin Air filter, KX snorkel, and a few holes drilled into the stock exhaust the performance of the bike is really increased at the 3-7k rpm range. This is also proven on the dyno. This is really demonstrated on mountain trails with increased hp in the low rpm range. I think it is also better for road riding especially if you are trying to accelerate for passing at slow speeds. I does depend on the gearing you have on the bike. Your gearing is so high and above the 7k rpm range at slow speed it is difficult to have a true realization...stock gearing would show a difference and feel in throttle response.

[@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures]

That’s a great point that I forgot about. Thanks! I do hit 7k without even trying and yes, it’s due to the higher gearing. I know there are easier ways to get the screw out but I wanted to do as little work as possible, LOL. The first time the screw head twisted and started to strip I was done. So I went full send and chowdered it up! I contemplated doing something electrically to the circuit because with an error code, the ECU defaults to opening the secondary throttle all the time. But hey, now I have it removed and still don’t really see much difference except for off road. Not complaining, just observing.

[@jeffg3895]

Looks way snappier than my stock setup! Excited to make all the changes you did!

[@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures]

You can do it! Let me know how it goes please

[@OneLastPan]

I read a lot of people having problems getting theirs out without stripping it. Mine came out pretty easy using a small pry bar (I used a tire spoon) and a really short screwdriver. Apply pressure to the screwdriver using the pry bar against the air box and turn the screwdriver using a wrench that fits the handle of the screwdriver. Mine came out in seconds with zero issues. the biggest issue I had was getting the damn clamps back on the boot. Not a lot of room to work it back on. Hope this helps some people out. I ride a 2023 KLX300sm I bought brand new with 1 mile on it. I put about 4000 miles on it and about 50 to 100 since doing this mod and I really do notice a pretty big difference. I don't know if it has more power all around or it just makes more power when before it didn't but it really is a lot more fun to ride now.

[@Rantny-9mm]

Pull your spark plug and check to see if its white .... my guess it is running very lean. If it is crank up the fulel until the plug is nice and tan color. Im sure theres a few horse power to gain and better throttle response. Thes new bikes have severe emission regulations and are extemely lean.

[@billingsfmx]

Like I said in my comment on your last video it did smooth out that power bump in the high rpms and make the power seem more linear while at full throttle. It didnt feel anymore powerful over all but I dont have a fuel controller. To me it felt like the throttle response in the lower rpm to midrange felt more sluggish. After watching some other videos of secondary throttle plates it said the computer partially opens the plate to increase port velocities at lower to mid rpms. That actually made sense after riding the bike for a few days. Weirdly enough after putting the plate back in my throttle felt more responsive and smooth low to mid range. Idk I could be wrong but thats what I felt. Im also almost 5000ft elevation in Colorado so that could play a part too. Either way I love this bike. Another 10 to 20 hp would make me happy. Hopefully the dual sport options grow in the next few years. Klx 450 with more travel under 10k would be sweet!

[@DevDog67]

A big bore kit would likely net you close to that 10hp increase.

[@billingsfmx]

@@DevDog67 I sold the KLX and got a 450rl. Hopefully kawaski or yamaha come out with a more serious dual sport in the coming years.

[@danielgreen7159]

After doing all the usual mods on my 2020klx250, thismade more improvement than all the previous mods combined.

[@danielgreen7159]

I removed the throttle body entirely and used a dremel tool to grind the back/staked side of the screw off . Then it came out really easy. I don't think I'd trust leaving the rest of the screw in there in case it should unscrew itself from the back side from vibration.

[@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures]

I found it modestly beneficial. Changing the gears is my recommendation for most improved ride.

[@danielgreen7159]

I changed the front sprocket to 15t because I gained enough power that it handles it well and I can easily cruise on the hyway at 70mph. I take the dual sport label literally. I ride as much on pavement as off.

[@raygregoryride]

Seems to run pretty good my friend thanks for sharing keep the rubber side down

[@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures]

The little bike gets along quite well I think!

[@gtadude24245]

done to my 2023 day and night difference highly recommend

[@joshdoddadbod]

Don't attempt this without JIS bits folks. I did it just using vise grips and the JIS screw driver that comes with the klx tool kit.

[@Gabrielmtbgopro]

i did the same and also got a bigger snorkel that fits right in , good video ! thanks for sharing !

[@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures]

Since owning the bike I ran the stock snorkel, no snorkel, and now the KDX snorkel which has been installed for about a year now.

[@THEGONZALEZSQUAD]

@@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures so the kdx snorkel is the way to go?

[@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures]

@THEGONZALEZSQUAD I think so. No snorkel is not good and the OEM is too restrictive especially with a fuel controller. The KDX snorkel was a good balance for me.

[@loganwhite7361]

@@FloridaTwoWheelAdventurescan you elaborate on the no snorkel option not being good? Are you talking performance or mitigating debris?

[@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures]

@@loganwhite7361 so it’s been a really long time since I’ve run without a snorkel but I’ll try. First though, it does allow more debris and water to get it for sure. Now about engine performance, I just recall noticing a difference for the better when I put the KDX snorkel in. It’s something about how the air is sucked in through the larger snorkel that improves engine response. I didn’t notice it when I ran without a snorkel because I think no snorkel was better than OEM. But putting the KDX unit in, which has wider intakes, made the engine feel more peppy. Hopefully that makes sense?

[@CrustyMac300]

Too bad all you have is that flat sandy riding area. Get it out on some loamy or rocky hilly areas, you'll feel it. I have some videos posted in PA in the Allegheny National Forest. Although I didn't focus on this in my videos, you can still see the performance. Like you I have the Delkevic, KDX snorkel, DNA (K&N type filter), EJK and 13/43 sprockets. I certainly noticed the difference, no lag, no hesitation in the twist. Still with all of these changes, very little HP & Torque increases, just better throttle response.

[@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures]

One day soon (21 months) I’ll have time to load the bikes up in a trailer and head out to all kinds of new places! In the meantime, I’ll suffer with the flat sandy tracks I have around me. It could be a lot worse. I might’ve forgotten to mention it but I have the KDX snorkel too. My gearing is 14/46. I am pleased with the throttle response off road after this mod. You’re right, it’s not life changing but it’s noticeable.

[@flyinhawaiian9174]

13/43 gives a final drive of 3.30. That's pretty tall gearing. Good if you want top speed. I run 13/47 on my '07 which gives me 3.61. Still tall, but my old bike gives me more grunt and acceleration than your new 300.

[@flyinhawaiian9174]

14/46 is even taller at 3.28! Yikes! You want taller (numerically lower) gears for desert, lower (numerically higher) gears for tight trails like forest. If you also ride highway then obviously you can't go overboard with the grunt down low, but if I were riding in sand I'd prefer more grunt.

[@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures]

The bike ships with 14/40 (2.85). I moved to 13/42 (3.23) but didn’t like how the chain angle broke over the front of the swing arm. I settled on 14/46 (3.28) because it is very similar to 13/42 but safer on my chain guard. The terrain I ride in is sandy or muddy or both. The stock gearing caused me to go hunting around too much and I could never stay in a gear very long. It was the same way when I had the CRF250L. I lose some top speed but I don’t care. I ride 5 miles to the woods and 5 miles home.

[@CrustyMac300]

@@flyinhawaiian9174 going from the 14/40 stock, it was a good compromise for road and trail. I'm still on the stock chain, plan to do less road and more trail riding, so when I get a new, longer chain I'll up the ante on the sprockets, may go 13/45, but not much past that because there will still be a need for top speed on some roads and I don't want to have to wind it out for too long while trying to maintain a 60-65 MPH.

[@jordanfrangquist1474]

Thanks for the video. I think I’m motivated again to get that damn thing out.

[@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures]

Just be sure to get the tiny metal shavings out! You can do this.

[@flyinhawaiian9174]

A slip-on muffler does nothing for power, it only affects the sound. To increase power you'll want a larger diameter and possibly straighter head pipe. I don't know of a company in 2023 that makes one for the KLX 300, but a good fabricator who knows his way around a motorcycle should be able to make one. Other than that you could do some combination of boring/stroking, bigger piston, polish/port and 3-angle valve job. If you decide on any of these be careful with the polish/port because if you take off too much you'll lose bottom end power.

[@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures]

If I said the slip on produced more power, I misspoke. It’s kinda hard to think of shit to say on the spot as you’re riding and filming. Thanks for pointing it out.

[@flyinhawaiian9174]

@@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures I totally get that. It's kinda hard to breathe while riding at my age much less think and speak coherently lol.

[@summitrmk]

I disagree 100% on ur statement. 3 bikes to compare side x side. 1st bike mod, slip on muffler. Quite the difference in a race. 2nd bike mod, 45tooth rear sprocket. Evened out the race with the first bike. 3rd bike still stock, getting his azz kicked. 3rd bike mod, 13tooth front and delkevic 14in slip on, now in first place racing. Second bike installed Delkevic 14" stainless with spark arrestor, now in first place.

[@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures]

Interesting opinions you have on the 3 bikes and mods. Not sure I’d agree necessarily. While it’s true that you remove some restriction by swapping out the stock muffler, I don’t believe it’s quite enough to notice a race difference. And as for increasing the gear ratio, you reduce top end speed. The race in a straight line for 1/4 mile would likely be much closer among all 3 bikes. The higher gear ratios would get going faster but they’d have a slightly reduced top speed. Not to mention, all 3 of the bikes need fueling modifications. Each are too lean in stock form. If you increase intake airflow, which you overlooked, then the lean condition is even worse. If a person wanted to improve the bike with as little modification as possible, I’d say change the gearing first. It’s cheap and easy, and as long as you don’t drastically change it, you can use the factory chain. Off road use, I’d say a 14/42 or 14/44 would probably be good enough. The second change is make is a fuel controller if you’re going to swap the air box snorkel at some point. The fuel controller is needed in any case as Kawasaki restricted the bike to meet EPA standards. Ultimately, it’s still a rather heavy 300cc bike that will never punch too much above its weight.

[@flyinhawaiian9174]

@@summitrmk My initial comment was made knowing he'd already made a gear change. As far as a slip on muffler goes, I stand by my comment. Other than sound, the only thing you might gain is weight reduction and not enough all by itself to make any kind of difference in performance.

[@bigbowlbrown]

Use the screw driver out of the tool kit. It's fits the screw perfect and comes out easy and no metal filings to deal with.

[@tieoneon1614]

Im leaving mine in. Its intended purpose is to smooth out the throttle, and after talking to several people who disliked the low rpm response and feel that confirms what its doing. And thats my favorite part of the KLX and past 250's is that it was super smooth tractoring while woods riding at low rpm. It would idle up hill in second gear instead of bucking or stalling when cracking the throttle open. If u ever ridden a efi MX bike or 450RL u would appreciate why Kawi put it in, the on/off snatchy throttle is horrible unless u are racing.

[@charlesdembofsky8208]

Just found your 2nd vid .thanks. sounds like you probably have to plan on drilling out the screw. I guess I'll find out

[@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures]

Opinions vary! Some guys claim they looked at the screw and it twisted itself out while others had to drill it like me. If you take the throttle body out, it’ll be easier because you can get a good bite on the screw head. Good luck!

[@pinkiewerewolf]

Excellent video and thoughts on the modification.

[@st1nkh3ad]

its the same principle of a dual runner intake on some cars the computer opens and closes when necessary you will feel little to nothing doing this in fact you could lose low end torque

[@natielou143]

That was quite a head snap eying up that bike for sale on the side of the road!

[@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures]

Only a few things in life are worthy of whiplash. A roadside motorcycle deal is right up there!

[@evlutionzllc5519]

In a nutshell, it gives you what you are asking for at lower RPM exactly when you want it, not when the computer allows it. If you don't do a lot of full throttle acceleration it will be hard to nice anything. The screw on mine stripped immediately. I ended up using a mid-sized set of Kobalt vise grips to get it out. Whatever you do, stick a magnet in there afterwards to remove any metal particulate and wipe anything that is stuck out with a damp cloth, paper towel, etc.

[@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures]

Well said!

[@ShinyKnife]

It’s too lean, you will feel it better if you add some more fuel. I can hear it breaking up on decel

[@dannichols67]

Snorkel delete IMO is helpful!

[@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures]

I took the snorkel out for a time. It made the situation worse. The KDX snorkel is the best for my bike.

[@discoveror9576]

I would think that removing that secondary throttle plate (low-rpm restriction) might DECREASE low-rpm torque.- something I haven't heard mentioned - just as larger diameter header primary pipes do. People concentrate on opening things up (air intake, vacuum-driven throttle plates, primary header pipes etc.) without considering the low-end torque LOSSES by/from doing so. They forget the Bernoulli equation, describing pressure and velocity going through a venturi.

[@tieoneon1614]

Exactly. Its there to maintain velocity to keep the motor and throttle smooth at low rpm. Which is my favorite part of the KLX when trail riding, is this bike lugging and tractoring at low rpm and the throttle not being jerky.

[@d_ward4871]

🎯

[@blacknight7201]

Nice bike, I have a klx300 also. with so many mods already, its difficult to notice a small percentage gain. Maybe if you did this with no mods, you would feel it more. That's my guess. Definitely going to do this mod. Thanks!

[@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures]

You’re welcome! You’re probably correct too.

[@drumwhacker]

Do t to get to add more fuel at the low/mid rpm range as you're getting more air without that plate. More air without more fuel make it lean which causes the decel backfire.

[@chugginwheelie300]

how could i have more fuel that mods is complete garbage now that my plate is off i have big backfire because to much air and i short my spark plug everytime

[@neebob2]

If the bike was run a a dyno before and after removal of the plate you would see the difference . Others have done it and it fills in the midrange nicely . Often tough to tell with only using the " Butt Dyno "😄😄

[@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures]

There’s no doubt a dyno would show me a graphical display on the improvement. But I’ve never seen anyone carrying around their dyno sheets on the trail so I rely solely on my butt dyno which told me there was a modest gain but likely not worth the time to do the mods for anyone who rides primarily on the road.

[@billbob9304]

Put the plate back in and ride it again. I bet you would notice it then..

[@travisprice3368]

Did you add an EJK? Or any form or electronic tuning? Asking because I was wondering if it’s a requirement once the secondary is removed. Thx in advance 😊

[@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures]

Yeah, I've done the EJK but it was long before this secondary throttle plate mod. I don't think it would be necessary to do the EJK if you're leaving it stock. You start modding the intake/exhaust, then definitely. Your fueling will need tweaking.

[@godw1ll99]

after seeing a dyno on the results and my personal experience hammering it on the road i am connecting the dots between the flatline at mid range where i expect it to keep pulling at an increased rate. this is annoying for me considering the majority of my riding is at mid range. it makes me prefer my 2 stroker because if im going to have any dramatic change in power id rather have a top end burst than a mid range lag. the low end is very snappy and the high end is for the most part. i just dont like how getting up is snappy then it feels very sluggish right away after take off until i get up to 7-8k which i dont feel i should have to do. on a freeway its fine because there is enough airflow but when i ripping through the trails i worry about over heating a lot. its a choice between staying in the snappy low end of first gear or the high end of any other gear. first has such a short range it seems impractical and is hard to maintain consistent throttle when needed on bumpy trails but at the same time there are many moments where i needed quick power and i just dont get it in a practical manner.

[@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures]

The benefit is indeed most noticeable on trails during mid range, no doubt. I never have overheated on any bike in the woods so that’s not a concern for me. I do enjoy a snappy throttle while cruising some of the sandy and wet trails so I think it’s a worthwhile mod.

[@Mr129718]

? do you know if there is a secondary throttle plate on the 2020 and up klx300r

[@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures]

There is not.

[@jeffg3895]

Did you have to put in extra chain links to fit a 46t rear sprocket?

[@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures]

Yes, you need a longer chain. Don't add links, just get a new chain. The factory one is usable until it's possible to replace it with a better one.

[@jeffg3895]

@@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures Ok. Jesus, all the boxes of Amazon orders I have sitting in my garage. What’s one more box right? Lol.

[@jeffg3895]

I just installed the EJK and was able to remove the secondary throttle plate this afternoon. I did not do the O2 delete and my check engine light is on. Do you know if that’s normal?

[@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures]

Make sure you plugged everything back in. If you started the bike or possibly even just turned the key on with something unplugged, it’ll trip the check engine light. A run cycle should clear it if everything is plugged in properly. Otherwise just doing those mods won’t trip the light.

[@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures]

You can also unhook the battery for a few minutes to clear the code. But if something is unplugged, the light will come back on.

[@Matthew-zw9su]

You dont ride bike consistently high enough in the rpm range to notice a difference.

[@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures]

The secondary plate is wide open by 7k

[@liviosinibaldi3632]

Placebo effect?

[@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures]

Mostly. However, there is some noticeable difference in the sandy parts of the woods. Would I remove it again if it somehow grew back? Probably not but I’m not upset about doing it. I could take it or leave it honestly.

[@d_ward4871]

It’s very possible. Just like new super loud exhaust usually makes people think it’s way faster

[@tg8150]

Why does it sound like this guy’s speaking Chinese when I know he’s speaking English?

[@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures]

It’s nothing to worry about. It’s due to you having Covid in the past. Just turn on the closed captioning if you can’t manage to understand me!

[@eljuano28]

Thanks, Obama! 😂

[@liviosinibaldi3632]

A waste of time probably yes.

[@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures]

I might not be inclined to do it again. It does have some benefit but I’m not certain the juice is worth the squeeze.

[@beekeeperbrad6251]

Its only for emissions

[@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures]

That’s actually not true but if you choose to keep it or lose it, the gains are really insignifcant.