STOP Making Out-Dated Table Saw Sleds, Do This Instead

[@chriswilliams5498]

Very new to the tablesaw world. Straight away needed a cross cut sled. Went down the vast rabbit hole on how to make one....was a bit daunting. Then saw this. Made it in less than half an hour and works brilliantly.

[@kirill_gusev]

same here. Just finished cleaning my CL scored table saw. Going to build this sled next.

[@johnduffy6546]

I'm right there with ya. Table saws are great but can be crazy dangerous. Having the right knowledge can save some digits

[@BlessedLaymanNC]

My first couple of sleds were kind of like your heavy one. I saw some of the other options including the big red do-everything types of sleds you can buy. I was fascinated by the one where the right side of the blade was fixed but the left side slid. I made this same sled you show here, but with a slight twist. My first cut established the right edge of the sled. I used a square to align the fence to the edge I just cut. It was really good. But the twist is that I also made a right hand sled. I did the same thing without the fence. It was just a runner and the same height as the sled. Then I lowered the blade and flushed the right side next to the sled. The right sled was longer than my jobsite table saw so it would support 6 more inches than the saw top. I pulled the right side back, raised the blade and pushed the right side next to the sled together into the blade until the back of the right board was aligned with the back of the saw. This gave me no gap to the blade and zero clearance at the blade and I felt better about some pieces being supported on both sides of the blade. I did not need the right side many times, but I discovered that with this setup, I could use my blade guards. For my saw, the blade has to be fully raised. I used 1/2 inch plywood instead of 3/4 but I don't think that really matters. I also added a piece of 1x2 board that extends from the tables saw fence when it is flush against the right board, to the saw blade. It is over a ruler so that I can move the table saw fence to adjust the stop block to measure repeated cuts. This gives me 11+ inches from the piece I cut off to the table saw blade. That should be save enough. Again, all of this works great even while my blade guard is on my saw. Like you noticed, the sled is super light. I've been procrastinating using a 3/4 version where I add screw holes to mount accessories for things like angles and rabbits and finger joints. For me and my small shop, the smaller and lighter, the better. Great video, as usual. Keep it up.

[@bernym4047]

Thanks. This will transform my table saw.

[@iandodd7828]

The multi-cut technique to check for square is a good approach. But the results showed that it was out of square (0.025” over 4 feet). What would have been helpful is to show how to adjust the fence to bring it into absolutely square. For viewers interested, a quick search for William Ng’s 5 cut method will walk you through the process. When I built my “obsolete” sled, I was able to bring it to within 0.003” over 4 feet, approx. 1/8 the error. It’s easy, only takes a few minutes and a little simple math but will ensure square cuts from now until that plastic runner needs to be replaced.

[@alphaforce6998]

That level of precision for woodworking is well into the diminishing returns range. As the temperature and humidity changes that sled will be off by more than 0.003".

[@keathpolyak6469]

0.025" over 4 feet...or 0.006" over 12 inches is only the thickness of your hair over 12 inches. I feel for wood work that is a great tolerance. Even though this thought goes against my OCD side as I am a machinist by trade. Ie. Try making a sun deck after dealing with +/- 0.0005" every day at work...so 0.006" is nothing to sweat over. However knowing the technique to get it better will help help so many people.

[@acerjuglans383]

The 3 cut method is quicker, just as accurate, and zero math involved.

[@mckenziekeith7434]

@@acerjuglans383 you only need to do 2 cuts. Cut once, flip the piece and cut again and measure how much it narrows over whatever distance you are interested in.

[@imacmill]

All well and good in this video, but now I have to go hunt down another video that says how to correct the unsquare. Feels like it will be finicky, what with having drilled and seated the screws already.

[@themeat5053]

Thanks, Colin. The re-purposing of the metal runner is brilliant. I'm doing it. Thumbs up!

[@richardflanigan9475]

I agree you should adjust your sled’s squareness and William Ng’s method is widely thought of as the best method to get a high degree of accuracy. Two things that I think you’ll need to better explain are 1. While lining up the sled to the opposite miter track would be accurate, this does not mean the blade or fence is parallel to the miter tracks and can introduce issues - the blade to the sled and your projects not using the sled but use the fence. 2. Not sure why you aren’t cutting through the back of the sled and using the back of the sled to prevent tear out and provide a smooth cut to the face of your work. I still believe it is helpful in doing certain work like cutting small parts to have the sled on both sides of the blade. I like to laminate 2 @ 3/4” pieces of Baltic birch for the back - very stable. I also put a very slight chamfer where it connects to the sled as saw dust might build up in the corner. Final comment - something someone else mentioned was waxing the bottom… I do that and wax the top of my tables.

[@billbriggs2309]

Once you have the guide attached to the sled you can run it through the saw for the first cut. This cut is what you want to set the fence to using your framing square. After preliminary setting you can proceed with a 5 step method or whatever you'd like. All your cuts will be the same as that first cut.....if the fence is square to the cut you should be good (unless there is sawdust between the fence and the work piece (as mentioned).

[@hockeyer]

Can’t believe I just watched another crosscut sled video! Thanks for sharing as always, Colin.

[@kirill_gusev]

After watching 10x of crosscut sled vides this is one I'm planning to build :)

[@howarddavies3744]

If you can't find the plastic for the runner, go to a kitchen ware department and buy a plastic chopping board of the right thickness which you can cut into strips.

[@raymondrobinson5251]

I have just been thinking the same idea. I was also wondering if you couldn't make a sled completely out of kitchen plastic cutting boards. Maybe find a glue for bonding the plastics together.

[@MarcGyverIt]

Thank you, because I've never seen a plastic store lol

[@simmyzee]

pieces of PVC trim boards work too

[@JugSouthgate]

Corian scraps would work too.

[@wulf67]

Or just use some hardwood scraps that you have around the shop. It’s not rocket science. Rip down some strips of Mesquite or Purpleheart or hickory and you’re good to go! KZbin is a trip.

[@bwillan]

Never saw the 3 cut test for fence squareness before. It's usually a 5 cut test and then take the cut off piece from the fifth cut and measure the thickness at each end. If it is the same, then the fence is perfectly square. It is the same principle of compounding or magnifying the error. Your method of checking with a square depends on your square being perfectly square to measure the error. This of course gets into the whole debate of how much precision do you need in your woodworking tools as wood is an imperfect medium. It moves with changes in humidity.

[@pocket83]

There's no such thing as a perfect medium, nor a perfect tool, nor a perfect reference, for that matter. Even metals like Adamantium, Duranium, and Mithril would all still be subject to temperature changes. Perhaps one might imagine something more perfectly crystalline, and thus less deformative, like Kryptonite? That'd still be susceptible to gravitational alterations, as per relativity-no matter the perfection of its geometry. The utility and extent of precision will be relevant in _every_ discussion concerning material transformation; when we craft, all we do is account for error, in every variety. Wood is as good a substrate as any. Plus, it grows on the trees around here. In the end, the only 'squareness' that matters will be the finished cut against its reference edge, which, by length, is usually only a small fraction of a framing square. As such, measuring compounding error often becomes more neurotic than useful. I'm not above checking both my "out-dated" sled and my fence with a rusty old square, but I'd still dare anyone to compare some of their highest precision against some of my finished work.

[@SpicyTexan64]

​@pocket83 Ever try living in reality? Just wondering. Someone's highest precision work equals your rusty old square. Sure thing bro.

[@Bob_Adkins]

@@pocket83 When lumber shrinks, grows, warps, and twists .005 from day to day, chasing that much precision just makes you crazy. All you need to do is take a good straight board 5-6' long, and cut it in the middle. Flip the pieces, butt them up, and lay a straight edge against them. If less than a .010 gap, you're good to go.

[@pocket83]

@@SpicyTexan64 Post some of _your_ work on video. Compare it to some of mine, tough guy.

[@Bob_Adkins]

@@terryharris3393 If 2x4 board is 6' long, the middle is 3', right? Cross-cut it at 3' and it will tell you how out of square you are with plenty of precision.

[@n8n51]

Only thing I would tweak with your base design is to add a small angled cut where the fence board meets the table board to allow for any dust that might accumulate and throw off the fit against the back fence. Otherwise it is a great base design.

[@Theexplorographer]

Was going to mention this.

[@flanagon360]

Genius

[@DrJuan-ev8lu]

An improvement is to drill several 5/8" holes through the sled every 4 or 5 inches along that angled cut. Be sure to bevel each hole slightly, top and bottom. These help empty the sawdust every time the sled is backed up beyond to edge of the saw table.

[@Bob-c4l9c]

Like a real sled that supports the offcut

[@dpeter6396]

I built a simple sled, very like your first "simple" one, using scrap wood and a bit of old 1/8" paneling. That was 40+years ago and I ain't worn it out yet. I've considered other types of sled design and materials but I just can't see trying to fix something that isn't broken! I think you've over killed this....

[@vicjs216]

Hi Colin. You can save some time and material by using a table saw dial indicator alignment jig to set up your sled if you have one (best measuring tool investment I have made ). Simply place the jig in the miter slot opposite of the jig. Clamp the builders square firmly to the fence. Set the dial to read zero at the base of your builders square. Move the jig to the far end of the square and note the reading. If it is zero you are good. If not move the fence back or forth to bring the gauge to zero. Repeat just to confirm your reading. I don't trust builders squares and usually use a very large plastic drawing triangle for the alignment. I have never been off more than .003" using the 5 cut method. Your blade must be aligned with the miter slot for this to work!.

[@fishhuntadventure]

If you’re going to use a dial indicator you don’t need all those extra steps or most of the parts. Even the dial indicator isn’t necessary if you own hardwood scraps and feeler gauges or a business card… Tool setups aren’t as much about /measuring/ runouts as they are about a quick go-no-go test with a gauge of some sort- even a business card. That even alleviates compounding errors 99% of the time, and checking parallel pretty much eliminates checking for square if you set your tools up well. Measurements are usually a fraction of the value of fitment

[@vicjs216]

@fishhuntadventure You are right. Before I bought the indicator I used a brass screw in a board set perpendicular to my miter gauge. Just kissed and marked the front tooth of a sawblade and revolved it the toward the rear of the table. Moved the miter to the tooth and adjusted the blade. An indicator is easier and quicker way to cut down on boring stuff leaving more time to make sawdust.

[@matts.8342]

I have one sort of like your old big one. Mine is smaller and I used a oak 1x4 for the back and the fence is 2 pieces of 3/4 inch cabinet plywood laminated together. The base is from the same sheet as the fence. I used 1/4" plywood for the runners. I haven't had any issues with it at all, and I like that I can use either side of the fence depending on what I am doing. It glides smoothly in my slots and I haven't had any issues with the runners moving or binding up. My shop is small so being able to extend boards off either side of the saw depending on where I have it positioned that day in relation to my other tools is a plus. These single sided sleds do work great though, I have one I use for making rings for segmented turning and another I use to hold down rough cut pieces so I can get a nice straight edge on one side without having to dig my jointer out (it's a board with a couple flip clamps that has a straight edge I can run on the fence for rough boards that don't have a straight edge). The jointer is in the garage, shop is in the basement, haven't made room yet for the jointer downstairs and it's cold out there in the winter! Plus that thing is too heavy for my wife and I to carry, I would need my Dad or brother to come help me get it downstairs, it's a 1950s Craftsman 6".

[@Motocicleiros]

Thank you for shedding some light over this subject! I am done with my traditional big and heavy crosscut sled that is always getting stuck in the middle of my cuts, to the point that pushing it harder makes my saw to move forward! I came after a solution for "sticking sleds" and stumbled against this wonderful video. I am going to make one of these simplified sleds and this time I will use nylon runners. Sometimes simpler is better. Edit: For whose don't have an horrid miter gage to disassemble to use the track, I recommend the nice and cheap t-tracks available in Ali-Express with adjustable washers that allows you to set the track to the exact width of the gutters of your table saw.

[@eldritchpalmerable]

That’s it! For some reason I never liked the idea of this elaborate double walled sled, instinctively I knew there is something wrong about this design. This very simple sled design is perfect and all that is needed. Thanks Collin!

[@hfaria80]

Amazing video. Relaxed, without background music and the right pace, and complete step by step instructions. Thanks for sharing.

[@alexdeburie5261]

I used t-track for my sled's runners. Worked great, and I had some 36" t-track available which was better than a shorter miter gauge.

[@scillyautomatic]

2:15 "...my local plastic story..." I wish my town had one of those! 🤣

[@chriswilliams5498]

If you have an engineering supply store locally they will get you the plastic you need, or go online

[@scillyautomatic]

@@chriswilliams5498 interesting! What's an example of an engineering store?

[@chriswilliams5498]

@@scillyautomatic a store that sells engineering supplies!!!!!. Bearings, transmission hardware, tools, safety gear..engineering PLASTICS. Etc etc its huge business. They are everywhere.

[@controlcenter1967]

I wish my country had one of those 😂

[@Buflonob]

Just bought my first table saw, and was looking at sleds, now i'm glad I watched this as it looks a lot better to just have this and i'm tight on space, thank you.

[@nelsondog100]

It’s nice that you were able to square up to the fence the first time but you never showed us how to correct the problem if we’re not as fortunate. Thanks a lot.

[@JR-lx8nn]

WOW - DANG! I need one of these. So simple and straightforward with virtually no material or time - really cool. Video is very nicely done, with excellent and obvious visual demonstration and clear, understandable narration. No wasted words, no BS and it all moves me to the proper result. THIS is how to make this type of training video. THANKS. JR

[@robinharris4826]

I like the simplicity of this. I’ve been thinking of building one of these for a while... so it’s off to the workshop now... nice work & thanks Colin!

[@gorak9000]

All you need to do with the stock miter gauge is to put a flat and true piece of hardwood on it as a fence - that's why it has 2 holes in it, for screws to screw the wood fence on. It also has an adjustment setting to true it up at 0* so you don't need to continually adjust it. Yes, a sled is slightly better in SOME circumstances, but 90% of what you need to crosscut you can do with the stock gauge WITH a fence attached to it.

[@worldtraveler8571]

Many stock miter gauges are no good especially on job site saws

[@johnirwin1837]

@@worldtraveler8571ever hear of adjusting them?

[@ken32708]

I actually made one similar over 30 years ago. The idea came from "New Yankee" Norm, but he put the square portion on the other end. In this manner you're pushing the piece against the stop and it is much less "tippy" when you start since much more of the weight is on the front of the sled. Also, by extending the guide bar well past the end of the panel you can literally cut VERY large pieces since you're always assuring that the board is against the square stop. Although that can depend on your saw size and outfeed situation. Norm called it his panel cutter. And then they invented the track saw.....

[@DrJuan-ev8lu]

Fence extensions way off to the side of the saw also help when cutting plywood as do all manner of extension tables. Its crazy trying to guide big panels with a short stubby miter gauge. The fence is better.

[@MarkMoore-xk2rn]

what I like about old school is that nothing falls down onto a blade. there is no stressing when using the sled.

[@ckmoore101]

I would argue, if you aren't stressing while using a table saw, you are being complacent. There is such a thing as too safe, if it creates habits that rely on safety features, and not proper usage, to be safe.

[@gogotrololo]

Saw cuts are never my finished edge, this technique will work perfectly to get me a good straight cut! love it

[@kasbakgaming]

Personally, I also like to add just a thin coat of wax to the bottom of my sled to help keep it smooth running on the table. I use simple furniture wax, and before applying I take a heat gun and apply a slight amount of heat to the surface to help the wax run a bit and get just that little bit further into the fibers. It's not a perfectly smooth surface, so I still have a bit of friction to help with control, but it's just enough to make my cuts run that little bit smoother.

[@MrColdhell]

Me too! Johnsons paste wax. Use it on my joiner and even my miter saw.

[@edmartian]

Came here to say this. Also mix 4 parts beeswax and 1 part linseed oil. To make your own. This stuff is cheap so you can use it on metal and wood parts for general purpose protection. Use Tung oil for a fine wood finish.

[@Bargle5]

Oh yes. I changed over to this style of sled years ago. Still have the big one for the rare occasion I need it, but the little one does what I need 99% of the time.

[@SaintFredrocks]

I got rid of my behemoth sled a while ago. The smaller sleds are so much easier to use and store: those big ones take up way too much space. If you counter sink and put a slit in the plastic runners, you can over-tighten the screws to make the plastic bulge a little and you get a perfect fit. Wood runners only seem to fit the day you make them. Thanks for the video.

[@chriskythreotis4686]

I haven’t used the mitre guide since I brought my table saw years ago ….now thanks to you I have repurposed it to make a table sled like you in this video ….it looks great…thanks again 👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧

[@andrewbieger5004]

Great stuff. I, too am planning on building a similar sled for final trimming of cabinet carcass pieces. It is a great design for larger pieces and not limited by the physical size of the sled. Your three cut method seems fine for most items, if the work pieces aren't very large, IMHO. I want to try William Ng's five cut method (using a much bigger test piece ) to maximize any errors in the squareness of sled fence to saw cut. It is extra work, but errors on cabinet panels (UN-square corners) can add up fast to make cabinet construction a pain, if drawers are involved. His method worked VERY well on my last sled build, and I was out only .0015" over 28 inches after two attempts to set the fence. I was able to get that accuracy on a 1980 vintage Delta Contractor saw, so take that SawStop!

[@bdkirsh]

Honestly, this is the best design I've seen. It is simple, it is light-weight, and it works. Using the table saw fence and the stop block means you can make a lot of cuts without a stopper on the fence. I have a small table saw, so this does the trick.

[@bobvanwest]

I made a small parts sled years ago because I was tired of hauling out my table saw sled. I used the miter slot to square up the fence. Thanks for this video.

[@virtualDon]

Great video! One small suggestion I learned from Norm on the New Yankee Workshop - put the fence on the leading edge. This way you are not limited to the size of material on the sled. The sled can rest on the table and engage the miter slot and the material can hang off the sled between you and the blade.

[@blackz9058]

If the sled is, measured from the middle of the miter slot, as wide as it is to the blade u could turn it 180° you can use it both ways

[@vincevanderbijl2203]

New Yankee work shop made these years ago I love mine ,better than the old bulky one I had before ( which I dropped and oh yes cut in half because of a larger cross cut I made ) good job !!

[@barryirby8609]

This is funny. I have had one like your new one for maybe twenty years and sort of felt bad about it because it was not one of the giant sleds. Kind of the poor step brother. Got a new table saw and was thinking about making a real big one. Thanks, I am sticking with the version like yours. I made mine with a 1/4" thick base so I could cut through thicker stock.

[@proximodaniele]

Colin .... FANTASTICO come sempre 👏👏👏... Ti seguo sempre ! Un slitta per tagli a troncare "leggera, rapida, veloce, pratica" . Un caro saluto dall' Italia

[@HiroProtagonistak]

I use the extruded aluminum channel for the fence. Gives you options for more attachments.

[@artiefufkin3292]

That's great. I would be able to use the blade guard on my saw with this type of sled. I am going to make one.

[@reginaldhairston2871]

Worked like a charm. I used the valet key first, followed by the programmed key, and then the new key. Thanks❤

[@doc2help]

Thank you, i am not a very good woodworker but I did make a crosscut sled two years ago and use it a lot. This will make an improvement on the original!

[@knecht105]

Woodworking is a process of learning and trying and I still have lots to learn too :)

[@gvanderkrieken]

Ah, nice. A while ago I made the same kind of crosscut sled, exactly for the reasons that you gave. I did not see it before being made in a YT vid so I assumed that this was not truly what a pro works with. So glad to see that it makes sense to pro users too. This is also much simpler to make and really in a few minutes you can start using this. i did make mine with a wooden runner. Seeing your vid motivates me to make a new crosscut like this and this time with a plastic runner to compensate for the wood movement. Thxs.

[@milenbojinov8384]

Great idea! Thanks for sharing. The only downside I can think of is the lack of 0 clearance feature for fine projects.

[@mikeclark2720]

You can clamp a flat spoil board to the the sled and get your zero clearance.

[@BrettMasek]

You can also cut dadoes using this style of sled.

[@akquicksilver]

Went the same route several years ago. When I got my new SawStop, i built all these gucci jigs and sleds. My miter sled hand built in 45s for mitering. It is a nice piece, but too big and heavy, so I built almost exactly the same thing as you with a metal bar off a miter gauge with the adjustable ball bearings.

[@Jose-ce7ko]

Great !! did one similar 15 years ago... still works fine !!

[@johnpugh5747]

Well I made your sledge and it is fantastic for me. My runner is just plain simple wood because that's all I have,it all works great. I am not a joiner, a carpenter just a man with a bench saw that likes to to projects.I try, I modify, I experiment..plastic, metal ,wood for the runner they all expand and contract. Please keep these videos coming. I suppose I have given plenty for the wingers and I do it better people.

[@brplatten1273]

Thank you I'm a 66 years old great grandma and I'm finally getting my first hobby shop just for gifts and such Emma's wondering how I was going to man handle one of them big sleds

[@thetony1973]

Wonderful, I just made one, thanku, you remind me so much of my Dad....I miss him.

[@robertpatishnock8222]

I made one just like that many years ago . Plastic was not available then ,so I used hickory strips for the runner . You are spot on ,easy to make , accurate and easy to use , and when they get beat up you dont have much in it . Make a new one

[@herbsu4330]

I would like to see how and where you mount the hold down clamp.

[@alonzohollingsworth7712]

Thanks Colin, this is something I need for my table saw. It's simple and easy to make but the bonus is that you can modify it with accessories such as a stop block or clamps. Great video.

[@donf3739]

I made a couple of taper jigs that way, but I also made one "dummy" sled, just a slab and a runner, that runs (or sits) in the other slot. It not only supports the offcut side, but also prevents tear-out, in case you want both sides clean. The dummy can be pushed with the main sled, but it works just as well just sitting there stationary. You would want to mount the runner a little farther from the edge than the distance to the blade, then trim the slab by running it through once.

[@jimblack5596]

Colin, Nice build. I see this as very useful and a good substitute for some cases where I use a crosscut sled. However one of the benefits of a traditional crosscut sled it that it supports both ends of the piece you are cutting in order to have a very clean cut on both sides. This jig does not do that. I would probably just use my miter gauge instead.

[@DrJuan-ev8lu]

That added support of a big sled can reduce chances of tear-out at the end of the cut.

[@bluepeakwoodworks]

Nicely done. Norm Abrams on the New Yankee Workshop often used a panel sled of similar design only his had the fence mounted on the leading edge rather than the trailing edge. With the leading edge, you're pushing the material rather than the sled which keeps the material pressed against the fence. I built a 'prototype' of his design 25 years ago that I'm still using.

[@woodstover]

I've always liked that design of fence at leading edge.

[@larrymiller9894]

finally, someone that could explain the 3 cut angle checking method that I can understand.. thanks .

[@norm5785]

Great video. I have a similar sled, but the back rail is in the front with clsmps and you push it through. Thank you for sharing. Everyone stay safe, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia

[@stephandelange1776]

Just a good old panel cutter just like that, is a thousand times better than any bulky sleds. True sleds have some advantages. But Ive been woodworking for over 30 years and I prefer my old panel cutter. It's straight, it's solid and it doesn't take the entire shop to store it. Good video and a good lesson to other woodworkers out there.. Thumbs Up!

[@knecht105]

Thanks Stephen, I agree

[@jamesmorton7881]

Well done. The how to check for square alinment was totally worthwhile.

[@LeonardoAguilar2020]

Colin. Thank you for this info on using the miter slot and not the fence. I've always had a slight deviation on my previous sleds because as it seems my saw isn't parallel to the miter slots. I've tried adjusting and it's almost imposible ti get it perfect. I tried your method and it works flawless thank you.

[@Dipperdap1]

That the only type of jig I've ever used for about 30 years now. I made mine out of 1/4 inch baltic birch and a 3/4 in inch back. Its very light and very accurate.

[@florentbled4697]

I recently purchased a new table saw, and I still have to make a new miter sled for it. This design solves a lot of the issues I had with my previous one. Think I'm going to end up using it. Thanks Colin!

[@fergusrb]

I looks like a New Yankee Work shop sled. I made one years ago and with the fence at the front you could cut small panels. You could also turn it around with the fence facing the rear of the table saw to cut large panels. Thanks for the video. I had the same problem with my cross cut sled, it was big and heavy to lift on and off the table saw. Thanks for your video. Now to find a place to get that plastic you talked about.

[@G.I.JeffsWorkbench]

I agree that this is much more versatile than the big one that I’ve been using (overbuilt & heavy, kinda like yours). Thanks for sharing your idea. I can’t ever seem to get rid of jigs, so it looks like I’ll need to make room for 1 more.

[@grady9752]

Like many others, I drank the "Ultimate Crosscut Sled" kool-aid about 8 years ago when my Saw-Stop arrived. Best saw deserves the best sled right? 3/4" birch ply, big, thick front and back verticals, T-tracks for stop blocks, embedded steel tapes and a set of adjustable T-track angle supports. It lacked for nothing. And then, I had to live with it. Two years ago, I did what most of us probably needs to do occasionally and rented a roll-off and did a merciless purge of the barn, garage and basement. There was still a little room in the roll off. I anguished over whether to do it or not but finally took that behemoth of a sled and threw it out. BEST thing I've ever done! No more trying to find someplace to put it when it was not in use, no more knocking it over when it was in the way (which was always) and no more weight lifting getting it on and off. I built something very similar to Colin's sled here and I'll never have another giant sled again. With nothing more than clamps, stop blocks and two through bolted hold-downs I can do anything that big clunker did. When I'm done, I can hang it on the wall. Try doing that with an "Ultimate Sled." Thanks for the video Colin. I'm with you all the way!

[@donf3739]

Weren't you able to cut the big one up and make a small one out of it?

[@grady9752]

@@donf3739 Embedded metal tracks, tapes, wood screws, etc. The decision was admittedly an impulse but believe me, I don't regret doing it.

[@joracer1]

Made my 1st one 10 years ago made it about like the one you made. I installed pull down clamps on mine so I can easily cut tapers

[@jamesklein7997]

"Your local plastic store." You know the brick and mortar plastic store right next to the 1970 International Harvester Scout Accessory Mall.... 🤪

[@rapid13]

I googled “plastic stores near me” and all I got back was directions to a local Lions Den…

[@HENJAM48]

I think it's a Starbucks now.

[@ffinnegan24]

We've got a plastic store where I live. It's near the wheel store, the fastener store, and Costco 🤷

[@jamesklein7997]

@@ffinnegan24 great

[@homefrontforge]

We have an International Harvester Scout museum/sales/service center nearby in Enon, Ohio. Must be a plastic store nearby!

[@riaannel3053]

Hi Collin. Just an observation: at 11:47 in the video you said it is an MDF board. It is not an MDF board, it is in fact a Particle board (Chip Board). Thanks

[@ihrescue]

Thanks I am looking to make one myself and appreciate the timing. Also thanks for the link for the UHMW plastic stock.

[@kellyvcraig]

I have some plastic guides I keep around for jigs, but have a lot of aluminum ones too. I go to the metal salvage place and buy 3/8" thick flat aluminum stock, then cut it on the table saw. To smooth the cuts, I use canning wax by rubbing it over the cut line. You can actually hear a difference in the cut when using it. Too, you can see the wax melt just ahead of the kerf. In the past, I've used one of my 60 tooth, ten inch carbide blades, but bought a dedicated blade for nonferrous metal (I like the cut quality of the 60 tooth wood blades a bit better). I cut with the blade guard down (mine swivels out of the way), but still wear a full face shield because hot metal can get tossed. Because I make my own guide bars for far less than they would cost from a commercial supplier, I have no qualms about keeping several bars around and making them long so I can use whatever length suits my fancy. For example, a few of my jigs have the bar extending several inches out the back, which would be perfect for this sled, to add stability at the start of cuts.

[@flipmcdonought5835]

Thank you very much; I’ve watched several of these type of videos and, for me, this was the most useful.

[@brianfraneysr.5326]

I learned to make that same sled from Norm Abrams New Yankee Workshop about 30 years ago. Very handy device. You’ve made some nice upgrades to it. Thanks for the idea with the steel. I have about 3 of those laying around and now I have a use for them!

[@waynew7175]

Why wouldn't you use the slot on the left of the blade to set the right angle for the back fence? Great video!!

[@briannelson4122]

Like a lot of things woodworking, we tend to over complicate things. Simple, effective and LIGHT! I've been thinking of making a new sled, mine has wood runners and is pretty sloppy after moving from the beach to the desert. I'm on it! Thanks!

[@peternewman7940]

First rate. Very useful and a much better way to cut accurately than by using the guides supplied with table saws. Also simple and cheap.

[@brandingforentertainers]

Oh, I am definitely adding this to my "To Make" list. Thank you very much!

[@daveabercrombie3446]

That’s a great sled. I like the laminated back piece. It reminds me of one Norm Abrams of the New Yankee Workshop made years ago. Thanks for the video !

[@dondwyer3679]

This is what I've been waiting for...a simple idea for me to understand and build. I'm a medium diy intelligence guy and you have all of the answers to help guide me down the path. Thank you so much for showing this sled!

[@randycosgrove3608]

Made one very similar to this 10 years ( or so ) ago based on a design I saw from Matthias Wandel. It's worked very well in many awkward situations. I also have a "traditional" sled that is for much smaller work ( max about 10" wide ) and since it's so small and light it gets most of my jobs. But this style is very very handy as you show.

[@michaelpatrick6950]

The small sled is exactly what I built to cut my tenons. I squared with Ng's 5 cut method and I get perfect shoulders.

[@dy1an]

Reminds me of the simple sled that Norm Abram used 30+ years ago 😊

[@andrewarmstrong5764]

Genius. I never thought to square everything up to the miter slots. Makes absolute sense.

[@trahtrebor]

Thank you sir. Gonna build this one myself. I have a sled now that looks almost exactly like your old sled. Lol it works, but as I'm getting older, it gets harder to set it in place. I think the accuracy is fine. Its not like you're machining steel anyway.

[@johnwhitley2898]

Very cool 😎! I just had to move recently and, alas, the table saw is in storage....... However, right before I moved, I had to run off "a pile" of cuts, and I was not going to construct a giant sled just to throw it out in the move. I remembered the Norm Abrams panel sled and I threw one together in reverse similar to yours, again in scrap. Thin base , couple of hardwood off cuts. Not heavy and it worked. It will get remade as soon as I get the saw set up. Better piece of Birch ply, thin; Delrin guide, with a finish. Kudos to you 😊!

[@paulbrackett60]

Small sleds are great but the larger one helps support the off cut if it’s of any size. And with that it keeps the offcut from bouncing off the table and possibly into the spinning blade.

[@soobz]

Exactly, this is not going to replace the standard sled for those reasons. Look at the waste go flying in his test cuts, no thanks.

[@richardlug6139]

You can counter that by using a stationary piece that sits on the opposite side of the blade to support the off cuts. Rockler sells this to support off cuts with their similar jig they sell.

[@KimosKreations]

Thank you Colin, I have one of those heavy cross cut sleds, I am building your design!

[@michaelwerner1836]

I thought my sled was heavy at 21 pounds, glad to know I am not the only one! I was looking for something lighter but reliable, and like your design, so will give it a shot. And, as I live in the real world, the 3-cut method looks like it fits my needs. Thanks for the video!

[@LarsonGuitarPlayer]

Now this was full of smart things! Will copy!

[@robertadams8971]

Love it! Keep my life (and work hobby) simple.... Thanks

[@DonovanCYoung]

Colin; I always appreciate your candor, thanks!

[@GarySevior]

Hi Colin, it is a pleasure watching your KZbin

[@almosthuman1398]

I switched to a half sled many years ago. Since I had already put all the work into getting my full sled tuned in, I just cut it in half and removed the remainder of the bridge fence. No regrets.

[@steveoshaughnessy3736]

This is awesome! I have a cheap table saw, a.k.a., loose tolerances. This will really help me make better cuts.

[@jayejaycurry5485]

Something I noticed about your old sled is the massive amounts of unnecessary wood. You could cut away much of the far fence, and maybe quite a bit of the fence nearest to you. I'm wondering if you could cut holes out of the panel to save weight. Also maybe you can get away with only half of that sled. But that depends on what you use it for.

[@terryrogers1025]

Thank you, finally found a very simple and functional cross cut sled. Great video sir.

[@DGLaserCraft]

My sled ended up in the scrap pile. Believe I'll give it another try with your instructions - thanks for the great video.

[@fishhuntadventure]

Interesting video. I have like 3 different plywood small/light table saw sleds in addition to a more robust sled, and 3 for router table use. I’ve had people on job sites and glitzy-magazine hobbyists tell me how I wasted my time constructing them cuz rockler has this, and garret wade has that, and they are “so accurate.” Maybe they are accurate but I’m capable of repeatable accuracy on my own. The next progression in my mind is that for a few hours of my time and essentially what is scrap-bin materials versus thousands of dollars of extruded aluminum- I’ll build my own stuff, thank you. I never have to check to see if my jigs are adjusted correctly and they fit my hands comfortably. I wouldn’t be buying anything of those shiny magazine cutting aids if I was Warren Buffett, either. Tools that do exactly what needs call for quickly and accurately are more important to me than adjustability, shiny parts, or bright colors. That’s what it comes down to for me. Does it save me time or enable me do better work? If so, maybe I’ll buy in. If it’s just another mousetrap? Then, no- not interested. Good video

[@SJKile]

I just kind of stumbled on to this, but this is a very interesting & intuitive design. I’m going to make it & I’ve also subscribed. Thanks

[@Akdale777]

Nice job. My first and last sled is where you ended up. I saw those huge sleds in all my magazines...yes magazines 😂😂. Decided the smaller version was a better fit for me. Works great, 20 years later.

[@MrExamplename]

I have a similar sled that is just slightly smaller. When searching the scraps for a runner I found an undersized piece with a bit of a loose fit, maybe 10 thou, and decided to give it a try. It's fantastic - i just need to keep a small amount of pressure towards the blade when cutting, and after i clear the blade I can pull it the 10 thou away from the blade and safely pull back to start position with zero chance of damage on my clean cut. I dont think I'll ever make a snug rugger for a single side sled again!

[@tedcook8749]

Nice outside the box ideas, very clever, thanks!