KnifeCenter FAQ

[@Scablands_Scavenger]

I would highly recommend AGAINST putting a wedge in a slip fit hawk handle. Throw away the set screw and make your first "bushcraft" project how to properly fit the head to handle. The taper on the eye of a "slip fit" or "through the top" type hawk is opposite of a standard axe and a top wedge will not work well.

[@dennishurley1992]

Thanks for your ongoing knife education. I always know that I will learn something extra when the weeds pop up.

[@Knife_guy]

I’ve used a Condor Woodlaw blank to make a knife. While yes it is more expensive to add handles and a sheath yourself. It is a good way to make your own custom knife. I wish more companies would offer blanks.

[@michaeldbhawker3556]

No. Yr not making a knife. Yr installing handles.

[@unfi6798]

This would have to be the best episode for 2023. Just like DCA we all love bushcraft knives especiallt the LT & JFlowers design. Both are legends in their profession & designs but also just a real nice guys. One of our three wishes is to meet the two gentlemen one day. Cheers DCA & Thomas. Greetings from AUSTRALIA.

[@byronbrimstone5163]

I have the Nordico. The Joker knives are the best bang-for-the buck deal currently on the market. The value for the money down is mind-blowing.

[@TROLL-w7g]

yes. I got joker bushlord yesterday

[@StevanOutdoor]

Good video and for sure Joker knives are great. Not just Joker but also Cudeman, Muela, Nieto, etc. If you see the BS-9 stamp on it this means that the knife got the stamp of approval from Grupo BS-9. These are 9 (Spanish) bushcraft & survival instructors who tested the knives. The Joker knives are often designed by J. Sabater who actually is also inspired by Joe Flowers. A scandi to zero is indeed sharp but weak. Also you have to remove a lot of metal to keep it that way. A secondary bevel is the key to easy field maintenance. The benefit of a scandi is that you have more metal till where the scandi grind starts making them stronger than a flat grind of the same thickness.

[@c62west]

David C. Andersen: GREAT episode! I loved your responses. The knife, saw, tomahawk and strop answer was my favorite. I believe in caring ALL of those, not JUST A BIG KNIFE by itself (like so many people advocate). Also, I would love an episode addressing bow saws. Thank you, again.

[@ThunderstoneWV]

I quite appreciated this video. Being a primitive skills guy I always enjoy a little bit of bushcraft knife talk.

[@edwardschofield6692]

Great discussion gentleman.For general outdoor use other than Sears,Morhs,Mears and others.There was some pretty good designs by Hoyt Buck,Bo Randall, Bob Lovelace.Thankful for all the men who help us enjoy the outdoors.A lot of old designs made for decades or more that were refined and made better.Skillfull users get by with just about anything.Enjoy them.Have fun out there.

[@brianwhitelaw7483]

Nice and fairly comprehensive discussion of scandi grinds. Learned a bit today. Thx DCA

[@realbroggo]

The poor old Scandi is probably the most misunderstood of the various edge bevels. It certainly has its place and purpose - just need to understand the pros and cons. In reality, maintaining a true Scandi edge can be difficult and many users eventually put a micro bevel on it just to make it a bit easier to sharpen/maintain without losing too many of the benefits (me included). Have a great day.

[@richardkev3077]

Jokers! Nice to see them on your table. I almost bought a Joker Nessmuk. Changed my mind at the last second. Bad decision. The Ember is perfectly serviceable, but I still want a Nessmuk…

[@williamsekely1476]

The back side of Silky saws also make great ferro rod strikers.

[@miltons.2462]

Hey DCA, thanks for sharing the knife wisdom. Could you talk about the Rockwell hardness of blades? I see some knife reviewers lose their marbles when a blade has a hardness of 58 and they claim the ideal should be 60-61. Is it really a big deal if the steel is 2 points softer or harder? Thanks as always.

[@MountainFisher]

Because the Rockwell C scale is exponential and as such HRC 50-51 is a 4% gain. 60-61 is 5% and 60-62 is 10.3% harder and 58 to 62 is 20% harder, but that is not the whole equation. 14C28N at Rc 62 will cut 414 CATRA cards and at 59 it cuts 375 and Nitro-V at RC 60.3 only cut 363, but at RC 58 440C steel cuts 425 cards. So what does that mean? All those knives based on AEB-L chemistry are low carbon with the highest being 0.68% C and 440C is 1.05% and makes Cr carbides where the low Carbon steel makes little CrC and mostly iron carbides which are not as hard. So if you're using a low carbon steel like Buck's 420HC at .35% carbon you need to make it as hard as possible which is what Buck does. Seems knife companies won't do what Buck does. Companies that don't HT 14C28N or its stepbrother Nitro-V to at least RC 62 are cheating you, go buy D2 if you need some edge retention cutting cardboard if you're on a budget, but at 58-60 your edges won't get through one box without stropping, D2 will zip through at 58 hardness. That 1.50% Carbon in D2 makes a lot of CrC and if you need stainless then get good old 440C or 9Cr. 440C is given a 100 on the edge retention scale as an average like some baseball stats are 100 for average above is 120 and below is 89 like AEB-L and 14C28N. Some true super steels like K390 or CPM 110V are like 180-200. Now if you're talking a medium high vanadium steel like S30V it holds an edge pretty well at RC 59, but I want that extra 5% at RC60, but it gets brittle at 62 and 14C28N doesn't. I have a K390 blade for cutting leather and it leaves most steels behind at 2.47% C, 9% V, but only 4% Cr, but I don't care about it not being stainless it cuts leather and doesn't dull, vanadium carbides are RC 87, harder than tungsten carbide and K390's hardness is kind of immaterial between 59-61 and it is tough to boot. edit; Bohler 695 is 440C so make of that what you will.

[@mariaconcepcionrodriguezhe2850]

@@MountainFisher hey man. Carbide formation begins at .60%c Anything under has no carbides . Carbides are for babies anyway, real men avoid carbides like the plague and d2 is one of those abominations Merlin prophesied about in his book "manmade horrors beyond our comprehension". Here is the "real man" steel list to keep you on the straight and narrow: 1055 1060 5160 420 440B Aus6 If it is a very small knife 52100 is allowed.

[@MountainFisher]

@@mariaconcepcionrodriguezhe2850 What the hell are you talking about? Carbide formation begins way before .60%. Just ask Buck knives.

[@realbroggo]

I think some simplicity will help here. One of the features of a knife blade we look for is edge retention - how much use can it take before it gets dull/blunt. The primary factor related to edge retention is 'hardness'. As a general statement, the harder the steel the longer it will hold an edge. Rockwell testing determines how hard a steel is via the HRC scale - the higher the number the harder the steel. All steels have a 'target' or 'optimal' HRC range - below this and the steel will be soft, not hold an edge and not cut well; and above this is may become brittle, prone to chipping & cracking and hard to sharpen. Put simply, you're not getting the best performance from the steel if its outside the target hardness - this hurts if you've just paid $$$ for a premium steel and want the best from it. As you have obviously observed, there are a number of knife lovers who hold very particular and passionate opinions regarding the HRC of various steels (no judgement here) and want the very best from blades they've purchased. For me, if it's a display only knife I usually don't care too much about HRC but if it's a work/user blade, I always look to see if a blade is within the target range - if outside I usually won't buy it. I hope this helps. For more info visit Knife Steel Nerds website - really good info.

[@MountainFisher]

@@realbroggo I read it too.

[@chrischips1732]

Thanks DCA!! I love those joker knives, and I agree very underrated and great product for the money 🤘 Thanks for the wisdom as always my friend!

[@pauljosephbuggle3722]

I live in Spain. I'm glad to see those Joker knives. They are great value and well made. Spain has many great knives at good prices.

[@realbroggo]

Hola from Australia. Discovered Joker knives a few years ago and love them. Well made and good value. I now have several fixed and folding knives from them. Qué tengas un lindo día. (In case I got that wrong - have a great day.)

[@pauljosephbuggle3722]

Your Spanish is dead on (muy bueno).

[@realbroggo]

Bring on the fixed blades!! Up until a few years ago most of my small & mid-size bush/field/camping/hiking blades were Condor or Becker. They were well enough designed and good value for me also quite like the Condor traditional vibe. Then I discovered Joker knives. IMHO much better build quality (esp. edges & bevels) and better value - easy to recommend. Side note - glad to see the TOPS Brakimo on the Table, one of my top three fixed blades. Purely personal, size is just right and love the way it feels and works. Sharp blades all.

[@brettwarner719]

Love the Joker Nomad I bought a few years ago. 440C essentially with a convex grind. It was extremely well finished and just works great.

[@borislebeau524]

2 gomboy 240 here for almost 7 years, absolutely love them.

[@kevinstryker6440]

Most serious question candidate; Hey DCA, in an extreme survival situation, people have had to eat all kinds of crazy things. If you found yourself in that kind of situation, which knife sheath would you prefer to have with you when it came down to having to eat it to survive? Bonus points if you can convince Joe Flowers to eat a knife sheath!

[@Nudel-nc1cp]

Haha good one 👍

[@freestatefellow]

Oooo, you’d want to make sure it was a veg-tan as opposed to a chrome tanned.

[@jotade2098]

one made from beef jerky i guess haha

[@TechLeatherCraft]

You can chew leather and spit it out.... But eating leather = digestive problems... Plus where are you going to store the knife.

[@schmant1417]

I asked him, he said he can't :/

[@laurelrunlaurelrun]

Great call on the Silky Super Accel 21. The curved handle works insanely well with the pull-cutting action. Longer blade than a Pocketboy 170 for the same weight. Only consideration is: Watch that tip! I was warned and still broke mine off. Still works fine with a broken tip and of course the blade is replaceable (at a price).

[@dingusdog8687]

Ha! The quip at the end was great!

[@tomt5745]

A Mora Classic (1, 2 or 3) with the oval red wooden handle is just unbeatable for wood work. Built like a tank. Carbon though, so be prepared for a discoloring, and dont let it sleep in salt water ;)

[@charlescollier7217]

I expected a Nessmuk. Didn't see the belly coming. Well played, sir.

[@micahsexton4281]

Would love your suggestion for a max $60 knife with wood scales to pair with my Victinox Hiker! Thank you, DCA. Great video!

[@DeerUNIT42]

As a frequent backpacker (not thruhiking..), a Silkysaw has totally killed my need for a bushcrafting knife, I LOVE the saw! I then just carry a small light folder (Dozier Hunter) instead of my Mora Carbon I previously always brought. Get a Pocket boy! Won't need an hatchet or battoning knife for wood processing

[@dennisleighton2812]

Hi DC: Not a question as such, maybe more a request for you to consider. Many of us from the metric world (and I'm an OLD example) have great difficulty knowing instinctively what the old (Imperial?) measuring method numbers mean! I always have to look up what things like 5/16ths, or 5/32ths, etc actually convert to in proper measurement ... errr I mean metric measurement. Putting up the metric numbers on screen when these funny numbers are mentioned would really save us old codgers a lot of hassle (I'm not so good with switching digital platforms to do this while I have the video going). I will understand if its too much trouble, but that's what we feel like all the time! ;-) Cheers mate!

[@kevinjohnson9533]

This was awesome, great advice and shared knowledge.

[@DragonsinGenesisPodcast]

Another consideration when comparing n695 an 14c28n is the ability to strop. When doing bushcraft chores, both steels will lose some of their edge, but 14c28n will strop back far more easily than n695.

[@trentthornton4828]

I love this series. Could you give your top 3 do everything folding knives. The ones that can do everyday carry, to tactical and hard use. I'd still love for them to be under 5 oz. Thanks

[@stuartrollings602]

Very nice overview! Thanks for the ratings..have a very nessmukey day!

[@Ajaxykins]

For a hatchet at the $40 price range that will blow the cold steel out of the water, go for a prandi hatchet! They're ground nice and thin and cut well, the hickory handles are hefty so can be slimmed down but out of the box not too unwieldly and I kept mine pretty much stock. The steel is great, but not too hard that you can't use a file to sharpen it... just overall fantastic and tied for my favorite hatchet.

[@neemancallender9092]

Great session The Joker knives seems to be excellent and great value Lucky I have sworn off buying, otherwise... $200 I would spend 50 on a Mora Black, Kasbol, then a Hultafors axe for 50/60 The straight silky looks great

[@greekveteran2715]

Mora Bushcraft Black and a Bahco Laplander and you;re set !! No need to spend more, because you will not get better tools. Silkys break, and nothing works better, than a Mora for crafting in the Bush!! Add a Fiskars X7 if you need to chop some wood for the fire and you're set for the next decades.. I've already reached 1 decade, using these tools.

[@John5.56]

Not a fan of the Fiskars axes/hatchets with their synthetic handles BUT they are absolutely usable tools for sure. And if you have someone who’s going to be using it, or if you happen to be a little lackluster on proper maintenance/storage I can see the appeal in the fiskars.

[@donalddicorcia2433]

Casstroms are great tools. If you need to fit one into your budget, they sell their SFK as a kit with a blade blank, handle scale blanks, and corby bolts fir half the cost of a finished knife.

[@nickday7381]

Hey DCA. Do you know if LT Wright have stopped producing the Pronghorn range? Thank you for all you folks do.

[@vagabond4576]

I know I can look it up myself. But its good to see what type of sheath it comes with.

[@c3foto]

Thanks for another great video. If I’m not mistaken David, your surname suggests that you have ancestors from Norway 🇳🇴 Have you ever done a review of these excellent bushcraft/outdoor knives, made in Norway 🇳🇴 by Øyo? 1. Femunden, Sandvik 12C27 2. Svalbard, VG10 3. Falketind, Sandvik 12C27 BTW: When mentioning Mora and bushcraft knives, I’m a little surprised that you didn’t mention Mora Garberg. But then again, the range of good knives is enormous, and it’s hard to cover them all in one single episode.

[@robertfish6779]

Of all my knives I love my Chaves the most. What are other big beefy titanium folders with thumb studs to scratch the same itch?

[@JakeSmith-ps4vr]

Thanks for answering my question! My wife thought I cut myself cause I yelled so loud when heard you say my name🤣 again thanks for the insight. I'll think a little harder before my next question;)

[@BrianBolhofner]

I have enjoyed seeing the face offs between DCA and Seth where each tries to guess the others top picks for a given knife category. Have you considered doing one for machetes? Thought of this watching the video where DCA had the Joe Flowers Condor Makara in hand and a big grin to go with it. Also hi Thomas. Thanks for your terse and timely contributions.

[@abbeybremner4162]

Great vid. I find for hunting the sandvic steel holds edge a whisker better than the boler, both super ez to tickle up in the field. Joker knives are so terrific for the $

[@maureenleahy8292]

A few years ago, the Pathfinder School/Self Reliance Outfitters had an awesome bushcraft knife called the Bush Tool by Habilis. It is so pretty, tough, fun and claasy looking. The sheath is awesome too. Heard of it?

[@jimlahey5623]

I highly recomend buying just the blade, and do scales by yourselfs, it is harder than i thought!

[@arthursoto4285]

Those saws are awesome.

[@Mattisfaction]

Question. I have been in debate with members of the knife community and need you to settle it once and for all! What is the best cheese knife? I.E. A folding knife you can best use for cheese. Ive had suggestions such as Benchmade Crooked River, Spyderco Pm2 and so on. What is your opinion of the best knife to use for cheese?

[@Cz82]

you can get a bahco Laplander knife + saw combo pack for about 35$ the knife is made by mora I believe ,after that pick up a fiskars axe or crkt/cold steel tomahawk. can take care of all of them with a worksharp guided fielded sharpener. thats like 140-150 and you have leftover money for an opinel and a ferro rod lol

[@josephlilley9249]

Not much of a bushcrafter doing crazy things but I can build a fire and make a makeshift shelter and I do practice sometimes when I'm camping to make sure I can do it if the need ever arises. I do a lot of hunting, fishing, hiking, and camping so it's definitely good to have some skills I'm bushcraft. Hell I'd say even if you live in the city and never go out to the wilderness, it's still good to have bushcraft and survival skills as you never know if a natural disa9or something else happens that would force you to have to survive outside.

[@ccmogs5757]

Great knives Casstrom - check out the Woodsman 👌

[@MoFoDelicious]

Hey DCA, I’m a big fan of the channel and especially this series! While I know the topic of 5th pocket knives is often covered, I have yet to find one that beats my Spyderco Dragonfly 2! Are there any 5th pocket knives you could recommend that: have a blade point for piercing, some belly (so no utility blades) and are light yet still ergonomically friendly??? Would love to hear your thoughts!

[@The4cp]

I'm a lager folder guy. My "normal " size folder is 3.75 to 4 inches. What are some of the best new knives in this range?

[@SliceyMcChop]

You’re great at your job🙏👊

[@fordmanfisher]

great video as usual. thanks feller.

[@daveyvick7157]

Hey dca and knifecenter crew. A few weeks ago I lost my most beloved manix 2. It jumped out of my pocket never to be seen again. It was my first "big boy" knife at around $200 and I loved it as much as a man could love something made of metal and plastic. Anyway, other a sheath knife, could you recommend something that's less likely to jump ship in a grocery store produce section? Thanks in advance.

[@geico1975]

I have a fixed blade "Camillus Titanium" I picked up from Walmart about 8 to 10 years ago that has a scandi grind come to think of it. Overall length is 9.5" and like a 4 3/4" blade. Rubber handle, it's like a smokey gray color with a small black imprint of a fixed blade knife near the blade and on each side of the handle. It also came with a black nylon sheath. Anyway, just wanted to mention it because I can't find it anywhere anymore, and didn't know if anyone had it and/or remembers it. Picked it up for $10.00 I think:)

[@Limicola1]

Nice video. I love bushcraft knives and recall many years ago being ridiculed by the knife community for trying to popularize them. But they took off and they are here to stay. A tip of the hat to Ray Mears who popularized the full tang bushcraft knife. it took some time for Swedish and Finnish knifemakers to warm up to that but again, times have changed. Finnish knives historically general came with a small secondary bevel (almost a micro bevel) and Swedish blades were mostly full scandi but not always. As for blade thickness, I much prefer 1/8" or less. If you want to baton, you don't have to beat them to death. I have dozens of 1/8" or less scandi knives that have held up well to batonning and because of the thin blade, they are great for carving AND other camp chores. One of the fathers of modern bushcraft, Mors Kochanski, commonly used a thin-bladed Mora for everything. The Joker Nordico and Casstron No 10 are incredible bargains (although I wish the blades were a bit thinner) and the Joker sheath is amazing. The Joker sheath/knife combo is over the top. Joker knives have been popular for many years among bushcrafters but they were hard to come by in the US. Glad to see a wider distrubution.

[@StevanOutdoor]

Actually Mora, and many other manufacturers, had full tang knives before anyone ever heard of Ray Mears. Also Ray Mears did not invent bushcraft but he did make it more popular. I do agree you don't need a crazy thick blade for batoning.

[@Limicola1]

@@StevanOutdoor Somewhat true. Full tang knives were common but not ones with a Scandi grind. Mora had several models (I have them all) but they were not widely available and they were pricey, with heavy brass bolsters. From personal experience, I can tell you it was a challenge to find even a custom maker who would make a full tang bushcraft Ray Mears style knife with a Scandi grind. Now they are as common as dirt. Finnish and Swedish makers also made full tang knives that were flat ground and aimed at the hunting market. Still, most preferred rat tailed tangs. The knife popularized by Mears was relentlessly criticized by Finnish and Swedish knifemakers who felt their knife tradition was being "Americaniized" and the strength of their knive handles were being challenged. In addition to the "full tang debate" there was the "sharpened prybar" debate (sparked by the Chairborne Commandos and American makers) and the "finger guard" debate, notably sparked by Mors Kochanski and his popularization of Moras without finger guards for bushcraft. As for Mears not inventing bushcraft, I never said he did. Long before Mears, Kochanski, and Graves, there was Kephart and Nessmuk and many others who wrote extensively about Woodcraft. But Mears, far and away, popularized the bushcraft phenomenon in Great Britain. If you are familiar with the magazine Tactical Knives (now out of business) there was a GREAT article (imho ;) ) on the knife designed by Ray Mears. I wrote it. :)

[@StevanOutdoor]

@@Limicola1 I agree these Laplander series from Mora were hard to find and expensive. I agree Ray Mears plays a big part in the popularity of bushcraft and in his 'Woodlore' model design knife with the scandi grind. Traditional Scandinavian is usually a stick tang because of the cold climate. There will always be discussion between traditional and newer. Brisa from Finland adopted the true full tang long time ago but still very few other Scandinavian knife makers do. For me a stronger full tang makes sense since I don't want to carry an ax with me.

[@Limicola1]

@@StevanOutdoor Brisa became a great resource when people didn't want to pay the big money for a Mears Woodlore. I bought a couple of their blades and put handles on them. Things eased up a bit when Sheffield started making the Woodlore. That was the knife I reviewed and I still think it stands up very well against the clones today, including many customs. The sheath, especially, was excellent. The other problem was that US knifemakers had gotten used to making skinny handles and it took a lot of convincing to get them to make fat handles. Manufacturers and many makers made hunting knives mostly for field dressing game and a thick handle was not needed for that, so handle thickness began to shrink (stag stick handles excepted). Woodcraft was a whole new concept. But if you go back and look at the old Western fixed blades with wooden handles for instance, they were quite comfortable to use for woodcraft. I bought/reviewed a lot of custom kniives with skinny handles, even though I asked them to make them wider. Painful to use for woodcraft. Now you can buy whatever you want over the counter for reasonble prices that will be more than serviceable for bushcraft. I've don't a lot of batonning over the years but now, mostly I use a hatchet for that unless I don't have one handy. In the old days, no one batonned their knives and would be shocked at the notion. Most carried a hatchet or in the case of trappers, for sure an axe, the one indispensible tool for the wilderness. You are not going to build a trapper's cabin by batonning logs with a knife.

[@StevanOutdoor]

@@Limicola1 Brisa is for sure a great supplier for all stuff knife and sheath making related. My favorite model this far is the Enzo/Brisa 'Elver'. A small blade more in the traditional Finnish Puukko style. I think the 'Trapper' is still their most popular model. Over in the UK there's Bernie Garland who also makes knives including 'Woodlores' but you can also buy just the blanks. I have one with homemade handle but also made some handles for Brisa blanks. The original Woodlores are not only expensive but also have a long waiting period. In the US people like Kephart and Nessmuk had a big influence on the 'woodcraft' scene and they did not use their knives for batoning since they also brought an ax. So the more 'traditional' people are against batoning with a knife. But carrying an ax around is usually only in the northern 'Boreal' parts of the world. If you look at Latin America, Africa and Asia you'll see more machetes. Batoning, also with a knife has been used for very long time but not to build log cabins or split big logs of course. I fully agree on the importance of the handle. It's a totally underestimated aspect of the knife in some cases. I call them all just small, medium or large camp knives (and machetes). They way I want my handle depends on the task for the knife. But, having bigger hands, thin handles will give me hand fatigue for sure. I think these 'bushcraft' and 'survival' models you see today also has a lot to do with marketing and making the knife look more 'fancy'. So they add 'jimping' and 'grooves' in the handle that have no function and actually make cleaning the knife much harder. For me there's a difference between the knives you need and the knives you want. All I need anywhere in the world to survive are an SAK (model Pioneer), Hultafors GK and a Tramontina latin style machete with around a 12" blade. But it's not all I want so I have a lot more knives.

[@aPoxOnUsernames]

Good episode, but i did find myself wanting more of a dive on the axe... perhaps in a future episode?

[@MGT308]

Hey DCA, I am also a fan of fixed blade EDCs. The two I carry most frequently are my Boker Plus Vox Nessmi and Schrade Old Timer. Both are compact, versatile for camping, and great for food prep. I am interested in adding another option to my rotation. Can you please suggest something three inches max under $200? Many thanks.

[@zdbrownie]

mora bushcraft $40 Bahco Laplander $30 Fiskars hatchet $35 can find a leather strop for under $10. $115 and all you really need imo. Yes I understand there are advantages to stepping up to higher end options but for anyone looking to just get into some bushcraft and just get out and enjoy it. This is plenty good enough.

[@shrooman777]

Hey DCA, i was wondering if you could help me understand, sort of from a physics perspective, the difference between having a kukri style blade with the blade bent forward, versus something like a parang (?) with a blade that sweeps back. What are the advantages of each? Does one have a mechanical advantage over the other? LOVE your videos, thanks!!

[@JoeyB7615]

I have three jokers nordico,lynx, nomad I customized the nordico by regrinding the scandi to full convex..for the money these cannot be beat period..you want a user knife your not going to be afraid to eat to death but at the same time can be an heirloom quality knife..only gripe is the billboarding on the blade

[@MitProdanII86]

Great video as always

[@zachm5274]

Hey Dave, I'm having trouble finding a good EDC knife that meets all of my criteria. I currently have a Kershaw volt II and I really like it, but I want something bigger and a little better steel. Looking for around a 3.5-3.8 inch blade, assisted opening with flipper tab, and tip-down carry. Right now it's looking like my main options are the CRKT PSD, ETE Kelly Worden WorTac 3.9", and the Boker Plus Gemini NGA flipper. I like the D2 and lower price on the Boker and ETE, but there aren't many helpful reviews on them. For the PSD, I'd feel a little ridiculous spending $80 on what seems to be sub-par steel. What would you recommend between these three? Any other options I'm missing? Thanks!

[@Hectorszenshopedc]

dang holding my F3 2 Carbon in my jewelry BOX.. Thank you, Knife Center

[@zetterberg]

I have the accel. Something about it just speeds through wood. Moreso than other silky’s ive had. Msybe it is the flat blade and handle as you said. The teeth look different too

[@mcsquirgle]

Hey DCA, I have come to prefer traditional Slipjoint knives to have a half stop feature. It has made it difficult to shop for the traditional pocket knives I prefer with a crisp mid stop. Why do some come with this feature while many do not? Shouldn't they all have it?

[@SzBubus]

Hi DCA! I've been looking at coated blades for some time now but I am unconvinced how durable the coating actually is. Are there different types, hardness, etc? Thank you for your answer! Tibor

[@ryanwaltemate9591]

Can you use a slack belt to polish up serrations and bring a knife back to life? Long time viewer, thanks big fella.

[@happykt]

I'd pair my LionSteel M4 Bushcraft knife with my Bahco 396-LAP Laplander folding saw.

[@HarrisonmarshCoUk]

What knife or knives would you take with you if you were visiting the uk?

[@jakeberg2266]

On the $200 bushcraft set I'd replace the joker knife with a Morakniv Kansbol with survival kit so you can spend more money on an axe like the cold steel Trailboss which is a Hudson bay design and is more robust and keep the strop and saw

[@Ulf_H]

Hi D.C. I have had a question for a long time. I am looking for a modern kukri / khukuri, with a good handle. However, I want one with the traditional notch, which is the Cho (or Kauda, or whatever it wants to be called). Do you have a recommendation?

[@r.j.macready8328]

Becker BK-16 and a Crkt Woods Chogan ftw

[@bryangravely]

How do the pros store their knives, specifically fixed blades? I have yet to find an elegant solution for my fixed blades. Currently, they're just sitting in plastic bins. Not only does this make them prone to scratching, it's also a pain to dig through a bin looking for a specific knife. I'd love some suggestions on not just storing, but storing and organizing my fixed blades.

[@jasondominguez2806]

The knife that represents you, although not a bushcraft i would say is the xl Espada for the "slightly larger than average hands"

[@VirginiaHapa]

Hey DCA and Thomas, I have learned a lot from you, so thanks for that. My knife collecting/fever has grown and has reach an … apex ;) I’m in the market for a quality camping hatchet and admittedly know very little. Any thoughts in the various price ranges?

[@bradjohnson4787]

Scani equals chisel like, good for opening up wood or bone. Flat equals kitchen knife good for slicing pastrami!

[@ronanmccotter2453]

Hey DCA, are there any knives similar to the winkler f3 folder? I love that knife, and they have stopped making them. I figured you were the one to ask. Thanks

[@claytonfinley488]

Hey guys! I have a few tanto blades in my collection but I’m hesitant to use them as I’ve never sharpened one. Any tips for sharpening a tanto? Thanks!

[@joeriley5059]

Any reviews on a Jackloreknives, I own 2. My favorite bushcraft knife.

[@johnwest4492]

Hi DCA, Quick question I hope lol as a knife designer and maker how do you heat treat you steels? For instance 1095 Hi Carbon VS S35 VN how do you determine your heat treat and Rockwell? How do you know to heat the steel S35 to 900 degrees for 10 minutes. I hope this question makes sense Lol

[@FallHuntsman]

Hi DCA, love the channel. Have you ever reviewed any of the excellent knives made in Ukraine by BPS, especially the popular Adventurer?

[@random_eskimo_in_the_rockies]

One note about saws: I see that folding saws get all of the love by bushcrafters. I think this is a mistake. A Silky with a fixed handle, something like the Gomtaro, Sugoi, or Zubat seems like it would be a much better choice than any of their folding saws. The fixed blade design is so much sturdier, and the size difference is so miniscule. Unless you're going for something like the Pocketboy you might be better off going for a handle that will last as long as the saw will regardless of how much you use it. One other thing: Silky is THE brand. Samurai just doesn't cut it. Corona is okay, but Silky is the Gold Standard.

[@chinachusetts3197]

Can you do a series on iconic modern knives?

[@TheTl33]

Hoping for a little help. I was wondering if you had any tips on if there is a way to fix a frame lock/liner lock with lock rock at around 30% without making the detent stronger. I’ve fixed it before on other knives by adding tension to the lock bar, but that increases detent strength. Having the issue with the KC exclusive Rike Tulay, but the detent on it is perfect.

[@jamesparker6383]

I've watched a number of your reviews on knives and i respect your opinions, so I'm wondering if you have ever reviewed Puma knives?

[@figtreeprophecy]

Cold Steel Trail Boss is a better option. Optics planet has it for $28 today, Love the Silky Super Accel 21, can scrape fatwood and ferro rod with the spine. Look into an Odenwolf Wolf-1 for a good bushcraft knife for a third the price of the Joker. I have that Joker and it's very nice but that's not really cheap. You can make your own. strop, check you tube tutorials.

[@Stevenobody]

I have a small joker and there is daylight between the spacer and the tang. I don't know if they would exchange my Amazon purchase

[@seniorfrog6622]

Joker knives are no joke

[@lifeorliberty3086]

Can you do a video for left handed bushcraft knives?

[@JoeyB7615]

Speaking of Lt wright any advise on getting one they are always out of stock

[@bryangravely]

Pitchers and catcher reported to MLB camp today. What should pitchers and catchers keep hidden in their sock for protection when hitters come rushing the mound with a big stick?

[@DanDannyDanielleBob]

Mr. Anderson, what is the run down on bird and trout or small game knives? I have been fascinated by the idea of a good compliment to a larger field knife that could also be used to skin or clean fish and can be pocketable and usable for self defense in a pinch. I have been looking at the benchmade flyway, white river small game, and smith and sons shoal. What features make for a good precision secondary field knife, and what would you choose

[@Scablands_Scavenger]

The Shoal is a fantastic knife, very thin and at 1.5oz easy to pack. I found it to hold an edge very well while skinning, a little flex to the blade but not too bad, still able to cut sinew and fur. Great slicer for food/camp work.

[@donalddicorcia2433]

Rumor has it that Joker Knives is run by the descendants of Domingo Montoya, the greatest swordsmith in all of Spain.

[@neok1945]

Hi DCA, i hope you are doing great. Are soft steels bad? It seems to me that many people don't like them. If they are not bad at all, what are they good for? Thanks.

[@marcausedc9521]

Are you talking steels like 8cr13mov for example?

[@tomt5745]

So called soft stel uses to be tougher. Not as easy to chip or break the tip.

[@FrThen]

14:55 Casstrom is a swedish brand, but the manifacturing of the knives is subcontracted to Joker in Spain.

[@SodaPopCurtis808]

Junkyard Fox’s snake eater is worth a look. In my humble opinion….

[@Suit_and_tie_reptile_guy]

It would be cool if on the knifecenter website we could like or dislike knife designs and then that information be sold to the knife companies

[@BabakPA]

Dear David, please don’t cut yourself😇We need you👊🏼

[@GreeneBasses]

Hey DCA, I hike a bit with my kids and am looking for a knife that is large enough to hack bushes and small branches but small enough to do camp chores and pack on my body.

[@etherealicer]

Isn't a Scandi grind a full flat grind with an extremely high secondary bevel?