Forming Tips for Nudura One Series

[@Clark-Mills]

Hi guys. Great work, you and your team do great work and we appreciate you showing us the tricky stuff that others don't show. Is there a reason why you couldn't do the pour in one day? With the appropriate ~60 minute setting up time between lifts? I guess it would require a long length vibrator and proper vibrating as the raw concrete is open to the world. Say "Thanks!" to Mike and your camera-man.

[@uptokode]

If it was a typical 9’ foundation then yes 1 pour is easy. This had a 4’6” frost wall plus the 9’ above slab height so we poured 2 separate times for 2 reasons. One reason was the obvious overall height of 13’6” (bracing shields only 10’) and more so was the mere quantity of forms it would have taken to do all at once. I planned this project with minimal use and purchase of the plywood forms. Great question and yes I’ll thank Mike and Greg for you.

[@mauricemaher8462]

Nice work guys, In Kamloops and I just finished 3 floors of one series on an addition. Some great tips here, I get the creep issue. I am 19x30’ outside dimensions and we had some issues with an eighth/quarter here and there. For bracing we cut 2x8 scabs and drilled them at 8 inches wide then used 3.5’ number 10 screws (so your bracing goes right through factory holes into the tie) and used 2x2 on interior corners and 2x4 on interior vertical seams with 2 inch nudura screws into plywood. On the top floor we split the pour at three courses (4.5 feet) and used 1x2 mdf baseboard to hide the cold joint and do a shadow reveal. Top, bottom and cold joint. Maybe for led reveal strip? I was really happy with that method. As an electrician I tried a bit of Coreline but ended up going mostly with PVC. The one issue was mix, I went 7 slump, 3/8 agg plasticisor (spelling?) and hot water....still not 100% happy aesthetically...what did you guys go with? Anyways I have lots of pics so maybe I’ll shoot a few to your company email. Cheers, Maurice

[@uptokode]

Hey Maurice! Thanks for the comment. I would appreciate some photos and I’ll include you in a fan feature film someday soon. [e-mail]. As for the mix, 5/8 aggregate and 5” slump. No other additives. Hit it heavy with the vibratory. What did you think of our finish?

[@arjunabernard8192]

@@uptokode great conversations here! That mix sounds really good to me. I don’t see a need for a larger slump at 6-5/8” wide if a vibratory is used. I’m curious what vibrator you used, Kody.

[@arjunabernard8192]

Hi Maurice, If you don’t mind, I’d like to see your photos of that job. I’m looking for an electrician down here to do work on the One Series so any info is greatly appreciated. My email is [e-mail] Let’s ride! :)

[@rodneydrake5308]

Thanks Kody.

[@uptokode]

You’re welcome

[@Extrmach]

Looks great 👍

[@uptokode]

It was fun to try something new

[@mauricemaher8462]

Hey kody, Your finish looks great, for us we had some issues with 7 slump running out a bit on a door and window jam. Because it is gym (basement) bed/bath 1st and open span kitchen/living up top we tried hard to have it perfect after strip...not so much. I think with a seven slump, small agg and plasticizers you really need perfect joints or som of the cream runs out. So now in a small office I am experimenting with different polish/grind. Basically I have two grinders and a low 3000rpm polisher. Tried a lot of different options but it appears the one I like best is: Half quicrete half mapei grey grout and some mat quicrete acrylic hardener instead of water. Mix to “peanut butter” let sit for an hour then polish at 3000 rpm 7 inch hook and loop 180 grit. Basically just buyin cheap discs from princess auto, you get about 16sqf then garbage. Anyways, it’s turning out well and need to be done before I get windows on Monday. I’ll shoot you an email, Cheers, Maurice

[@mikestronach4762]

Another great video. Mike seems like a character. I follow all your vids. I am finishing a fox block 4 plex now. Certified in fox. Nudura. Logix. Integrespec. I don’t think I would go this route unless the client has some need I am unaware of. I would hire a good form contractor and put 3 inch foam on the outside or use regular ICF forms and put plywood on the interior walls. I may consider one sided Icf for shallow frost walls. Just having a hard time seeing how to use this and make money. Thanks for the vid

[@uptokode]

Mike is a beauty. Fun to work with that’s for sure! I do see what you are saying and would tend to agree. I like the use of this system for the north wall in a passive house and this small cabin we are doing. It has its places.

[@squeekhobby4571]

@@uptokode : great point. Every system has its own use. Shouldn’t it be the south wall in a cold climate since it gets heated up during the day and dissipate heat at night

[@uptokode]

The north wall that faces to the south. Depends how you visualize it or phrase it.

[@squeekhobby4571]

@@uptokode : thanks , sorry for the misunderstanding

[@hameedtalebi2351]

Just an idea, what if we put the plywood outside and insulate inside. Then for all the wides aboveground, we leave it exposed concrete. It will be modern and beautiful and no need of extra spend on brick/stone. Is it doable? The challenge would be sealing around the windows.

[@rotaxrider]

Great channel guys So can you use this Series One to have exposed concrete for above grade to replace parging? Is this an option to use this and then continue with regular nudura block on top to the rafters?

[@uptokode]

Thanks ! Not sure if I would use the one-series just to avoid parging. It’s more labour intensive so there should be other reasons to do it. My opinion. It’s biggest benefit would be keeping the thermal mass on the interior side of a passive home or use that concrete as an energy sink.

[@rotaxrider]

@@uptokode That was my thought also. I’m just trying to find an alternative to finish the icf above the grade line

[@uptokode]

I have videos on it. Or just ask me.

[@arjunabernard8192]

I’m curious why you would need a cold joint in the middle of a floor. I’ve poured over 9’ walls with forms that have 12” web spacing in 2 lifts with no issues at all. Nudura has 8” spacing so should be pretty much bomb proof I would think except the corners - which need to be braced very well.

[@uptokode]

There a 4’ frost wall below the front wall for the garage door and then steps on each side. I planned it so I didn’t have to buy a ton of plywood forms for 1 job.

[@arjunabernard8192]

@@uptokode That’s smart!

[@uptokode]

I thought so too! Hopefully I can do another One Series job soon

[@arjunabernard8192]

@@uptokode For sure! I’m curious how easily the formply inserts come out. They are removed when you remove the plywood?

[@uptokode]

Those cones are attached to the form. So once you remove the screw, the plywood and cone comes off really nice and easy. We had zero issues! Just don’t let it sit too long.

[@lowkeybc6369]

Thanks

[@SteveP-vm1uc]

Am I missing something?? I don't understand the problem with the 8'+/> ply ~v~ the 8' +/- Nudera as one is on the inside and the other is outside. One will always run longer than the other, so I'd say make the outside of the building to plan and the inside will have to have some throw away ply. Or maybe even think about standing your inside corners and use 2x6 on edge to create blow proof corners. To me, I'd still be looking at insulating the inside anyway. I like the idea of a 2x4 frame on the inside with a 1" or more space between it and the concrete. Install all your plumbing and electrical and A/V/coms and when ready, blow an inch or better of foam. That will make it a solid envelope from slab to roof peak while allowing rapid wiring and box and plumbing placement.

[@uptokode]

I like this comment. This would be a good discussion some day.

[@fredjohnson4772]

short stubs of vert. rebar on first pour would never fly with an inspection in my area.... why 2 pours ?

[@SteveP-vm1uc]

So Kody, how much price difference is there doing this ~V~ 2 sided insulation and why would you want to go this way?

[@uptokode]

That’s a tough question. I don’t know a good answer. 1 sided is more and I made a video about the advantages of the 1 series so that might help answer this question

[@fredericguyon1449]

Quite interesting but it seems like a lot of work for building a wall. Is it really more cost efficient to compare with more conventional method as seems more laabour intensive.

[@uptokode]

It’s hard to say. I think the main advantage to this over conventional with foam attached later is the 1/2 ICF has attachment points built into already. If you attach foam to a concrete wall you have attachment issue that need to be solved and this is where the labour and time catches up to you.

[@fredericguyon1449]

@@uptokode thank you for taking the time to answer. By the way, i just finished to redo my kitchen using Ikea and your video are the best as i learnt so much from them. Thanks for sharing

[@scottt6753]

Hey Kody. I’m considering an ICF pool using Nudura. I know of someone using the 1 series to do a pool but haven’t seen the finished result. I’m considering just the regular block to 5’ depth throughout with a three coat parge layer behind a vinyl liner finish held at the top by a track. Do you think I may be looking for trouble with dimpling of the foam or crumbling of the parging behind the liner? There is someone with a video doing something similar (DIY) I believe in Quebec so a cold climate. Just curious of your thoughts

[@uptokode]

Hi Scott. I would definitely use the standard block as it’s easier to form plus you can curve the walls with relative ease.

[@uptokode]

As for how to waterproof...I don’t know the proper way at this time. I would contact the company called “Tremco” who now owns Nudura and a few other companies who cover all aspects of building envelope. Therefore waterproofing and stucco are part of their system now.

[@scottt6753]

Good suggestion. Actually in conversation with them now about another item. Anxiously awaiting engineering for fibre reinforcement vs steel for OBC compliance. This will be a game changer in my opinion.

[@hr1551]

is there a particular reason for using this 1-side ICF vs regular? I don't see advantage of using this 1 side block.

[@uptokode]

I made a video on the advantages of this type of ICF. There’s quite a few and I’m offering another perspective is all.

[@gregfitzpatrick1824]

At approx 00:35 of this video there's a link to a video on advantages of 1-sided ICF. I guess it depends on the finish or functionality or future-planning you want for that surface.

[@panayiotiskoutoulas1753]

Whats the purpose to do it this way ?

[@uptokode]

I have a video on the advantages of the 1-sided ICF.

[@Trident_Euclid]

Your Instagram and Twitter links don't work.

[@uptokode]

I’ll look into it. Thanks for the heads up.

[@paulnovak833]

Are you paid by Nudura?

[@uptokode]

No I am not. Just familiar with their product line.

[@uptokode]

Plus when I looked online for info on the One-Series I didn’t see much at all. Decided to make some for anyone in the future

[@24revealer]

@@uptokode I really appreciate it. Any plans for videos on the insulated floor forms? I am designing a 2 storey house with a covered porch all the way around.

[@CougarLand]

Nudura has their own video for the One Series... the foam is on the INSIDE.

[@uptokode]

That’s the beauty of the system, you can install the foam on the outside or the inside. All depends on the situation