KTM's Magura Clutch - how to pull it apart... in reverse

My clutch was a bit leaky so I decided to pull it apart and see how it works. Didnt look at the manual either. Better buy a seal kit at some point.
Happy to hear your tips!
UPDATE: Its now a month later and the system has not leaked another drop! Maybe just cleaning the seal is a good fix for a reasonable amount of time!

[@MonoLake02]

A timely video - I’ve got my 690 all stripped down while it’s cold out and I am going to be changing out the clutch fluid during reassembly - thank you...

[@horaciolodi6835]

Thanks, our video was helpful, greetings from brasilian KTM owners!!

[@TimKreitzAdventures]

You have reminded me that my ZRX needs all its hydraulic fluids flushed. So many projects to complete before springtime arrives, but I'll be glad to have the cold weather gone. :)

[@Tomdogful]

As usual, entertaining and informative vid Nerb. Embarking on a round Australia trip on mine this winter. Currently 27k on the clock so might get that clutch seal checked while in for valve clearance.

[@C_R_O_M________]

The slave cylinder disk/piston with the green seal is known to fail at the base of the short protrusion (spring side), where it creates a hairline crack from which eventually loses all the hydraulic fluid from the master cylinder. The permanent fix for my 2009 990 Adventure (and after two of these failing) was to go the Oberon slave cylinder way. It worked flawlessly and made it to 110K kms when I (sadly) sold that bike. In the market for another 990 atm. EDIT: Looking at your video it seems that your slave cylinder piston is an updated version of what used to be in 990s with extra material at the base. Ours was a straight cylindrical protrusion whereas yours looks like it's stepped with more material at the base. Lastly, there's a much better way to bleed the system than filling the slave cylinder from the top. Bolt the slave cylinder on but not entirely, leaving a small gap between the unit and the plastic baseplate behind it, then remove the bungee tube and fill the slave cylinder from its top while gently tapping the unit inwards to activate the piston, refill and press again until all air bubbles are gone. Then reattach the bungee tube and complete the bleeding from above (master cylinder side) by filling the reservoir, pumping the lever 5-10 times and keeping it in while cracking the bleed nipple open, repeat until the lever isn't spongy and all air has bled off the system.

[@markariewilliams]

Great tutorial mate, only change ive done on my 950 adventure and 990 SMT is to bleed the clutch slave conventionally, hose on the nipple and apply clutch lever just like brakes, less fiddly and easily done in the sticks using 5w fork oil, never failed me at all.

[@wobblysauce]

And as you pointed out at the end with the air bubble, Cable tie/secure the Clutch leaver in on the bar to get more out overnight... as the microbubbles come out of the fluid with the release of the pressure.

[@ianchivers585]

Very good practical demonstration

[@200xcBruce]

Best to push up to reservoir from slave bubbles will want to rise. Some of the caps allow DOT 4 or 5.1 brake fluids.

[@piersjohnstone9851]

Thanks for that👍 Just about to fix mine. 2015 1290SA

[@sic04250f]

My clutch lever on my berg stopped working altogether recently, new seals and all good. Mine has a nipple on the slave cylinder allowing fluid to be pushed up from the engine via a syringe. The seals at the lever went years earlier.

[@petermoygannon698]

I've got fc 450 17 and a 19 model I just used an o ring out of my metric eBay kit. seems to be working. time will tell .

[@AwesomePlayers]

Thanks. Great video.

[@ronanrogers4127]

Mine just failed 3 days ago. The OEM backing plate is plastic and when deformed it leaks, so a lot of owners install the Oberon billet backing plate, it won’t deform and runs cooler (£28 or so). The o-ring naturally wears, they’re around A$18, and when the cylinder is too scoured many owners install the Oberon slave, but the German Sigutech is better (3 O-rings). BTW, I used fragrance free baby oil, it’s 100% mineral oil, low viscosity, and gives a really nice feel...plus it’s dirt cheap. Also, if people retain the OEM backing plate, torque the bolts correctly or it will deform, it’s only plastic (10 Nm on the 1190/1290 from memory).

[@Nerb1]

Your comment went to spam! Have you been abusing people? Anyway, I fixed it. Your advice is back for public consumption ;). I will look up the oberon billet backing, sounds good.

[@ronanrogers4127]

Nerb1 ...I’m terrible. My wife won’t even talk to me. I take that as encouragement though.

[@diegogermancontrerasfajard6276]

Thanks for the video. Do you know if that spare parts fits on a 990 Adv slave cylinder?

[@in2ADV]

Love your work Nerb1! You're KTM (the new model) is up there high on my list of bikes I'd love to own (but can't afford). In your experience, are KTM adventure bikes reliable for a RTW trip?

[@Nerb1]

In my experience, get good at repairing your own bike! I dont think modern ktms are any more or less reliable than other bikes. It all comes down to being able to maintain it. But definately speak to someone that has been rtw.

[@garrettnolin9931]

As soon as I heard the tool I subbed haha,.love it

[@Nerb1]

Cant beat the eh! Well... maybe a perfect circle ;)

[@Shadower75]

Did you say 'Mineral Oil'? Don't go to Port Augusta for it then..lol Nice one Mr Clutch King.

[@rick8910]

Just a thought but I think it would be a good idea to put a little Loc Tite on those bolts.

[@ronanrogers4127]

Most importantly, don’t over tighten them. The OEM backing plate is only plastic, and over tightening the bolts can deform it, or create a hairline fracture, either of which causes leakage. 10 Nm torque is all they need.

[@hottfats]

Thank you for the video mate.showing where everything goes. I wanted to ask whether you knew where I could get that Rubber ring for the piston from as mine is damaged? thank you

[@Nerb1]

You can get whole seal kits from 'all balls', but if you only want the seal you might have to go to a ktm dealer. The O-ring has a part number, but im not sure if the piston rubber does? www.ktmonlineparts.com.au/partFinder/fiche/ktm/2015/1190-adventure-r-abs/clutch#next www.mxstore.com.au/p/All-Balls-KTM-Enduro-R-690-2017-20-Slave-Cylinder/18-6038?gclid=Cj0KCQjwp4j6BRCRARIsAGq4yMGAHCBxwv9GQBoGhLASU709UgEyuOyTsS4H0mugnaPsUB7ZZ5jBm38aAkKXEALw_wcB

[@hottfats]

@@Nerb1 thank you Mate. I have the o ring but the seal comes with a whole slave cylinder and too costly . Do you know the part number you got from All Balls for the seal Kit? They only have parts for a 1290 superduke . Cheers

[@Nerb1]

@@hottfats I would give them a call. I think the superduke will be the same part.

[@hottfats]

@@Nerb1 Thanks Mate. Safe riding

[@BennosShed]

pretty simple setup.

[@RedRupert64]

You've made an easy job very complicated! 😃👍

[@Nerb1]

Please explain. How do you propose to replace the seal without pulling it apart? Besides, this was to show how it works.

[@RedRupert64]

@@Nerb1 It's the bleeding. You don't need to fill the slave before fitting the piston. Simply assemble; slacken the bleed nipple; put finger over nipple outlet; squeeze lever while letting air/fluid flow past finger; then increase pressure with finger to stop air entering; let go of lever. Repeat until system full of fluid and no air. Maybe replace the OE slave with an Oberon one.

[@fabioextreme6202]

Hydrauliköl kupplung? ktm 65 sx 2003 Was wird das richtige Öl sein? Muss mineral Öl? Er ist blau, aber ich kenne die Marke nicht 😕😔

[@chris198004]

Great vid. Where did you buy the new seal? Ktm dealers say they don’t list it and have to buy a whole new slave cylinder !

[@Nerb1]

After I cleaned the seals, it never leaked, so I didnt ever replace the seal.

[@frednoskillz5079]

Hi! Is that an upgraded clutch lever?

[@Nerb1]

Upgraded / Downgraded.... who knows. Its a chinese cheapie... but short. I love them.

[@martinvancamp7537]

Should only take KTM 10 years to acknowledge the problem & about 15 years to fix it.

[@Nerb1]

@Bob Sacamano Just cheaper i think.

[@martinvancamp7537]

+Bob Sacamano .. Bob it probably is, but then again they've never sorted their infamous fuel pump problems that's plagued models for years, there were still guys on private KTM's in the 2019 Dakar broken down in the middle of nowhere with shagged fuel pumps .. (stiff Shit is KTM's credo) & there go's the privateers life savings invested into the Dakar because KTM are too busy releasing new models over sorting problems with earlier models.

[@martinvancamp7537]

Bob Sacamano .. Don't know about that Bob but I reckon those covers around the bottom of the engine are for storing spare fuel pumps.

[@ricardomastroieni334]

Buy a Oberon slave cylinder to replace the KTM garbage.

[@toby7504]

Nothing's like a "how to do it" video to take your mind off things.

[@desigart1089]

My exc 400 clutch dont gain pressure when i pull the lever, the cap is filled and no bubbles. The clutch dont work, what could be?

[@Marzoochi]

If it's magura, just chuck it. They are very well known for this. Just suddenly no pressure. Get replacement slave from Rekluse. I believe it's even cheaper then OEM and it fixes this problem.

[@desigart1089]

@@Marzoochi hi thanks for the reply. Yes its magura, i replaced the "rubbers o-rings" in the cutch master cilinder and its ok now!

[@drappy2960]

Can you start it without the clutch slave

[@Nerb1]

What do you mean? Roll start it? You can just press the starter button to start it and then push it at a jog and clunk it into first. But roll starting it without the starter is near impossible without a BIG hill.

[@szucsl03a]

Just out of interest: why is the spring on that side? Isn"t it always pushing on the rod this way? In my mind, it should be on the other side to push the piston back to its original place.

[@Nerb1]

Because the spring is keeping constant light pressure on the push rod. Without that, the lever would have a bit of slack before actually pushing the rod, giving you a shitty lever feel. Well, thats my understanding.

[@alistairharris7891]

did you ever find a re build kit? i cant find one.

[@Nerb1]

It never leaked again so i never looked for one.

[@alistairharris7891]

@@Nerb1 thanks for they reply mate. I know you have a T7 to worry about now than these old girls. 👍😂

[@SeeItWithSimon]

Paper towel?! How could you!

[@DerikGeddings]

Don't use paper towels! Had to say it, best of luck stuff like that I just pay the dealership to fix. I'm not willing to take it apart to that level

[@ronanrogers4127]

Derik, it’s honestly very, very simple. I’d encourage you to try it. They can fail anytime, and it’s an easy fix, sure beats an expensive tow. Mine totally failed last weekend. I couldn’t shift up or down. I fixed it myself on the road while using the OEM toolkit. I reinstalled it and used baby oil from the chemist, fragrance free (it’s 100% mineral oil). Less than 30 minutes of work and it was good enough to ride 120km home. Now I’ll fix it properly.

[@DerikGeddings]

Ronan Rogers I ride a bmw anyway unsure if it’s the same style clutch or not on the GSA

[@ronanrogers4127]

Derik Geddings ...BMW are the same in principle. I had one fail on my K1300, but my S1000rr was fine, and I had three GSs without problems. Unfortunately these are a known weak point on KTMs, although some lucky riders get unlimited miles out of the slave cylinder, a lot of riders get 7000km or so. This same part is used on all LC8 engines, going back > decade, which is why there are a few aftermarket options...although you’ll never need it, take a look at the SiguTECH Flat Top for an example of beautiful German Engineering, a triple O-ring piston. Safe travels!