Kubota F2400 & F3060

This is a comparison of the the F series and a bit about the history. The things I like and don't like on an F2400 and a F3060 model. These two tractors came out of production years ago but are still working and reliable. They rank very high on the quality of build and in my opinion here is some of the reasons why. I didn't mention the engine, I think it goes without saying. Kubota build some of the best small diesel engines in the world. These two tractors weigh approximately 1300lbs. They are built very similarly to a large farm tractor but drive in the opposite direction. They both have a 9 gallon fuel tank. I think I said 6 gal in the video.

[@tedpruitt8691]

Thanks for showing the shifters on the f2400 for I bought one that has the decals worn out. The one I just bought had 1408 hrs now has 1409 hrs it runs real good. I'll have to rebuild the 6 ft deck.

[@JourneymanRandy]

Great. 1408 is low hours. I have one with 5000 hours and going strong. Keep up your maintenance like grease oil and filters. It will last many years. Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Seeing you go over these Kubotas makes me miss my BX1850 that got sold when I sold my acreage. Serious soft spot for 'real' orange tractors.

[@JourneymanRandy]

You can always get another. I love the sound of a Kubota diesel. Take care Everett

[@michaelmactavish1728]

@@JourneymanRandy there best engines and great feul enfishiond wich other brand engines goes way through feul

[@rayzunun929]

Love the mowers but trying to fix my grandpa’s mower. He left us an F 2400 the engine just don’t wanna turn over right now.

[@JourneymanRandy]

Hi Ray. The old F2400s are some of the best Kubotas ever made. You need a good strong battery. Clean terminals and a good ground. Good luck and thanks for watching.

[@rayzunun929]

@@JourneymanRandy Yeah, the problem with my grandpa‘s tractor is he was running at one year on a yard and all the sudden it just died and the battery was brand new since then it just hasn’t wanted to turn over anymore. Ignition will get power but the engines pumps I think it’s just a fuel pump or a fuse that’s out But I can never find anything on the mower because it was my grandpa’s since the day it was delivered to the show room floor

[@rhyslf]

Great video! I have a 3560 with the high dump bagger, leaves a great cut and has heaps of power! Only thing I wish it had is the wheel brakes... Keep up the great videos - very entertaining ☺

[@JourneymanRandy]

I have come close to buying a 3560 more than once. It must be nice to have the extra horse power. I checked years ago on the brake kit. That brake kit was around $300 it may be still available now, you should check. I might try ebay or the local dealer. Thanks and take care

[@rhyslf]

I don't have any experience on the 30hp mowers, but I know with mine, coupled with the diff lock, it has crazy climbing ability! Even with the bagging fan going too! That's a good idea for looking up the wheel brakes - might make some calls to dealers also, cheers!

[@D1rtyDog]

I know there's a following for these tractors, but I've never been able to find a good community/forum dedicated to them. I've always want to put together a history of the lineage (since I can't find one), but I'm hardly an expert in any sense.

[@JourneymanRandy]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/bGiWgmiwaMeopLs

[@michaelmactavish1728]

the kubota f2100 and F2000 and f 2560 now replaced with GF1800,F2680,F2690F3680 and F3990 now

[@D1rtyDog]

@@michaelmactavish1728 I'm aware of the current models, and of most of the lineage and previous models (you've left out a lot). I'm saying it'd be neat to have a comprehensive and detailed story of the models and how they've evolved over time, as well as covering the various factory attachments and odd-ball models (i.e. the "zero turn" F series models).

[@michaelmactavish1728]

@@D1rtyDog yeah at least they still have parts avaliable for older units plus the newr units got out now will fit the older units too acully wich is nice all same parts but the older kubotas makes a history when they started 1n 1950's sold at all 500,000 kubota dealers over the glob and still contintued to grow :)

[@dickditty480]

Wow, this thing is cool lookin' 👍

[@michaelmactavish1728]

yeah they dont have that model avaliable but parts still avaliable wich f2000 is replacednewer f series

[@dickditty480]

👍

[@dynoguy]

Interesting run down on these machines,...could you do a like/dislike on the normal tractors you have ? I am thinking of buying a compact tractor (its got to be cheap, so it will most likely be old) and looking for a bit of input what to look at. I know the Kubota engines very well from gensets, but don't know much about their tractors.

[@JourneymanRandy]

I'm trying to keep them short. I could have went on and on. I only own one compact tractor and not much of it I don't like. I like doing these videos. I will try to think of something. I hope you got my email. Take care Mike

[@michaelmactavish1728]

you can still get these engines wich from 18hp up to 26 hp is $1,799.00 for the 16 to 26hp engines at my dealer

[@scottpearsontoolsmore185]

Great video thanks. Great job on the way they work and comparison. Keep up the great work see you in the next video thanks again

[@JourneymanRandy]

As always Scott. Thanks my good man

[@nospam3409]

These machines are designed and built like tractors, not mowers. That's why they run so long. I used to run a 2100 and a 2400 mowing commercially in the 90s. I mowed 2 properties a week that totaled 75 acres including buildings, and parking lots. After I left they eventually moved to the 2560. All of them would mow some really tall grass at full speed without missing a lick. That's what sold us on them. One of the properties had a school being built on it. It was May and the grass hadn't been mowed yet. It was up over the hood. Several local dealers brought their machines out. The Kubota 2100 was one of only 2 machines that could make it down and back without a problem. The Kubota was obviously more durable, so that's what they went with. I agree about the L/R break. Wish they had kept that as a standard. Also wish they had left the engine in the original orientation with the rad at the rear. With it at the front, the screen tends to clog up a lot faster. Easy to clean, just sucked having to stop and do it. I've used an old 60" Dixie Chopper at the house for over a decade. It has done fine but it's on its very last leg. I have a used F2880 with a 60" deck on the way to replace it. Over kill? Yes, yes it is, but I can't wait for it to get here :)

[@JourneymanRandy]

Hi No Spam, You nailed it with those comments. Many contractors stay away from diesel equipment. I'm not sure why. Other than the cost. The engines are more powerful and fuel efficient. They last two to three times longer. The rest of the tractor is built much better. Our Kubotas weigh around 1300lbs and an air cooled equivalent around 750lbs and there are many more reasons diesel are better. I hear that fuel injected gas are much better now. I worked my entire career with Kubota equipment and glad I did. Thanks for commenting and watching.

[@JourneymanRandy]

Good luck with your F2880. Let me know how it works. Take care

[@nospam3409]

@@JourneymanRandy I'm not sure how badly the EPA has impacted these diesels, but if it's anything like they did the auto industry, I can understand why people would avoid new diesel equipment. Having said that, my '83 Ford 1710 CUT still runs fine ;)

[@Triumphwonderdog]

Hello, do you know how to release hydrostatic to push it around non running in pole barn?

[@JourneymanRandy]

That is very easy. Move the high low leaver to neutral. Good luck with your machine. Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@creativemaketools897]

machine good, nice

[@michaelmactavish1728]

the F series kubotas are alot cheaper then a $140,000 holder c992 and $130,000 trackless

[@JourneymanRandy]

Thanks

[@hyrumsimms9006]

What's the trick on the f2400 to put the pto into 2500 rpm. My mower will go 1100 all day but I can't seem to get 2500 to respond at all...

[@JourneymanRandy]

It might be blocked by the previous owner. I had an employee that ran my machine who couldn't remember the attachments that can't be run at 2500 rpm. I bolted a plate in the slot the shifter goes in so he had to run the snow blower at 1100 rpm. It might be blocked under the sheet metal. That's where you should start looking although it could be something else. Thanks for watching and commenting. Let me know if you find something.

[@westbygodoutdoors7036]

Needing a shop manual for f2400 pdf or free. Not trying to pay 30$ and wait a week can u help me out?

[@JourneymanRandy]

I would keep looking for a downloadable version. I managed to find a repair manual for my backhoe. You have to dig. It might be out there.

[@jackzicroskyclips3563]

Nice

[@allenjohnson3763]

QIs it necessary to bleed Hyd lines after draining and replacing the fluid? If so, would you shoe the process? I have a 2400. I bought it about 3 years ago. It was abused by the previous owner. It is still a good machine. I am a novice at mechanical work. But, I am trying to learn. Thanks from Georgia.

[@JourneymanRandy]

Hi Allen. No, it's not necessary to bleed hydraulic systems. I thouht the same thing my first time working on them. The air just simply makes its way back to the tank. I would suggests changing all your fluids, engine oil, hydraulic oil, gear oil in the steering axle all three. I have a video on how to do that. If you look in the play list titled Kubota. Even the antifreeze because the anti corrosion breaks down with time. Also all the filters like fuel, hydraulic, engine and air. I like the early F series Kubotas. They are way over built and with good maintenace last for years and years. Our first F2400 has 5000 hours and is still going strong. Dont forget lots of grease and i always put a cup of engine oil in the diesel tank each fill up. Todays fuel is very dry and not good for the old injector pumps. Good luck with your machine and let me know how its going.

[@77vindiesel]

Hi Please can you make a video on how to maintain a Kubota F3680 or F series .. like regular greasing , oil change , spark plug .. and hydraulics maintenance etc ..

[@JourneymanRandy]

Most important is oil changes and filters. Grease and keep the radiator clean to keep engine temp. down. I have quite a few videos on repairs and maintenance. Check kzbin.info/www/bejne/bGiWgmiwaMeopLs. Check my play lists. Diesel engines have no spark plugs.

[@77vindiesel]

@@JourneymanRandy Thanks Randy !

[@JourneymanRandy]

I mean all filters, air fuel oil and transmission. What model did you buy? A F3680 isn't much different than our F3060s. I have had great luck with kubota. They are more expensive but are much better built. Less likely to break down.

[@77vindiesel]

@@JourneymanRandy I bought F3680 , with the front mower and Snow broom .. it’s 2008 model though and had some hydraulic leak that the Kubota dealers here are asking 2k to fix . Saying some unit needs to change otherwise hydraulic fluid will go low every time .. This is my first time buying such a big machine , I can’t even move the Mower on my own .. Thinking I might have bit more than I can chew 🤔

[@CASG93]

Can you still find parts for the f2100 easily???

[@JourneymanRandy]

I just picked up new parts yesterday. Two trans filters an air filter, fuel filter and the bushings for the rear steering. I guess some things are discontinued like body metal but you can find many parts like that on ebay. Quite a few parts are the same for many years of different models. Even the Kubota B series have many similar parts so they should be available for years into the future. Thanks for commenting and watching.

[@michaelmactavish1728]

yeah parts are still avaliable on the market for these older models

[@CASG93]

Journeyman Randy thank you

[@stevedoll3535]

Hi Randy. Thanks for the video. Very helpful with the 2400 I just purchased. Having issues with the PTO. Lever snapped off where it attached to crank case. Tacked back in place but now PTO will not engage. Any suggestions???

[@JourneymanRandy]

Glad it helped Steve. Have someone shift it while you look at the transmission input shaft to see if its moving back and forth. You may need a flashlight. There is a shift fork inside the trans housing. I had an employee who broke that piece forcing it too hard. It was a big job to fix. Let me know how it goes. The Kubota website has all the exploded pictures and parts list for all models. Thanks for watching and commenting

[@randypoonai819]

Hello i have a F2400 when i hooked up my snow blower attachment and raise the attachment the wheel lock up any idea why that might be? With my lawn mower deck it was working fine

[@JourneymanRandy]

Hi Randy. The only thing I can think of is the part of the snow blower must be hitting the brake linkage under the floor pan. There is a lot of moving part under there. Some newer models have stoppers to avoid this from happening. Try lifting it halfway up. It's a good machine. I hope you have good luck with it.

[@randypoonai819]

@@JourneymanRandy thanks but it also happens if i lift it up slightly off the ground. The only time its not locking up is when it down all the way

[@JourneymanRandy]

I would still look at the linkage under the floor pan. That is where everything happens. I bet part of the snow blower mounting frame is hitting the brake linkage. Get someone to raise and lower the blower while you look under. The left side and right side have independent brake linkage. Maybe just one side is being applied. You may have to take a wheel off to see in there. Good luck Randy. Let me know haw it goes.

[@randypoonai819]

@@JourneymanRandy thank you

[@JourneymanRandy]

Hi Randy. Did you figure out the cause? Winter is coming.

[@michaelbrodhagen8250]

I just picked up a f2019 plow, do you have any pictures or video how the plow would hook up on the 2 point hitch?

[@JourneymanRandy]

The two plows and the snow blower I have attach to a quick attach frame. It has one leaver that pulls a latch to lock the attachment on.

[@nospam3409]

Have you ever added a 2" receiver or a trailer ball to the back end of an F series machine?

[@JourneymanRandy]

I did make a 1" vertical hitch years ago and it works great. Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@lexop4214]

Great video! My F2400 has a slipping clutch and I can see clean oil on the flywheel after undoing the plug halfway the clutch cover. Does the F2400 have a wet clutch? Or is this oil coming from somewhere? If so, should not there be a drain hole at the bottom of the clutch cover? Another question: Am I right in thinking, that the clutch is between engine and mechanical pto as well as between engine and hydraulic drive pump? The steering servo pump seems to be working constantly, so will be directly coupled to the engine. Thanks for any answer, Lex

[@JourneymanRandy]

I believe that its a dry clutch. The only thing that the clutch operates is the PTO. The oil could be leaking from the input shaft on the hydrostatic trans, hopefully it's a simple fix. Maybe it's a loose oil filter or a fitting. What kind of oil is it? If its engine oil or hydraulic oil it will point you in the right direction. Jack up the machine and get in there and look with a good flashlight. I pressure wash thoroughly then look for leaks. Hopefully you will see where it's coming from. The steering pump should be working constantly. Those machines are know for needing the steering cylinder to be rebuilt with new seals. That's a simple job. Good luck and let me know how it goes. Kubota have all the exploded parts online. I often print out what I need before starting something like that. Thanks for watching and commenting

[@lexop4214]

@@JourneymanRandy Thanks Randy. I have the users manual for the F2000, in which a dry clutch is stated. For the F2400 I still am not sure. I opened the big 22mm plug at the bottom of the clutch house and some 100cc of black oil came out. Either it comes from the engine, or if hydraulic has been blackened by the slipping clutch. I don't believe that little bit of oil is used for a wet clutch, so it will be leaking from somewhere. I don't understand why so big a a plug is used; generally it is just a little hole to get rid of drops of leaking oil. I rinsed several times with dilutant, whilst operating the clutch. It now feels a bit more yerking. As with the plug the oil might have been accummulating for years, I first will try the machine without the plug, just a piece of rag will keep dirt out. If more oil comes out, it will be necessary to have a look at the clutch. I suppose it is the easiest way to take the engine out? Does it come out as u unit, together with radiator and exhaust, or do I have to strip everything from the engine? Cheers, Lex

[@JourneymanRandy]

Very little is different between the two. I have two F2400 and one F2100. The only things that are different are the engine and cooling system. All three have different pedals. It's possible the cluch is different but probably bigger on the F2400.

[@JourneymanRandy]

The machine split in two. I have split one of our F2400. It is pretty simple to do. You should get a shop manual. When you reassemble it you will need the torque values.

[@nifty12321]

Wondering where you hooked up your Aux hydraulics on the F2400?

[@JourneymanRandy]

I have planned for a long time to do a video on that. I have an F2100 I bought all the parts I need to do just that. I hope before the end of this year to show how I do that. Thank you for stopping in.

[@99MikeHamilton]

Your video is great, I was looking for some background on these F Series machines bcause I just bought a F2000 at auction, I tested it all before bidding, everything seemed to work fine, never having run an F series it took a few min to figure everything out. I am a John Deere compact tractor guy normally , but the Kubota F2000 looks good, I saw a couple of things that concerned me minorly, in the fwd reverse (side by side) pedal area, the linkage seems to be a bit sticky or lazy or something move into reverse, fwd seems to be pretty snappy, perhaps a good cleaning and tightening up may help once I get underneath it. BTW I picked this hidden jem up for about $1000 US with 2800 hrs... Engine also seems very clean looking and a good starter.

[@JourneymanRandy]

Hi Mike, you did well. That is a 1986 or 87. All the early F-series are built the same just the engines and pedals are different. There is a sort of shock absorber under the seat. Disconnect it and check to see if it works smoothly. It will work OK without it. The adjuster looks like a big slotted screw head. Its accessible by a hole in the frame I believe on the right side. To reduce speed forward and increase reverse speed loosen the lock and turn it a tiny bit. It should go a bit slower in reverse but not a crawl. I had to adjust one I bought years ago. It would go fast in reverse and very slow forward. The pedal linkage is complex and often worn so you loose pedal travel. I used a mig welder an built up the worn spots. Change all your fluids and filters. I have a video from last fall changing the gear oil in the rear end. This often goes without new gear oil for too long. You should have great luck with your machine. It's always nice to get a JD guy over to Kubota. Take care Mike.

[@D1rtyDog]

Awesome video. I'm a huge fan of these tractors. I ran them when I was a teenager landscaping and then bought an old F2100 when I bought the house. Thinking of a next gen purchase at some point. I'd love a PDF of that repair manual if you could ever manage. Quick question: Do you ever has issues draining the rear hubs? I open the plugs and oil barely seems to come out... even when I top it up with new. And I can never seem to get the hubs to take near as much as the manual calls for.

[@JourneymanRandy]

The Kubota dealer can sell you a repair manual or look on Ebay. I changed the gear oil on the F2400 and the F3060 last fall. I have a video on that. I had the same problem, one side seemed to be plugged so I took the cover off. I was glad I did it was full of metal dust that made like a mud with the oil and blocked it from draining. I sprayed brake cleaner, cleaned it and put new oil in. I plan to do the F2100 soon. You don't need to upgrade. The older machines are built as well as the new ones, maybe better in some ways. Just maintain it well and they last a lifetime. Thanks for commenting and stopping in.

[@D1rtyDog]

@@JourneymanRandy Thanks for the response. I'll have to check out the video and get to taking my hubs apart soon. I remember running F series back in the day and I always loved getting on the F2560 over the F2400 we had. They just drive a little nicer and the bigger back tires seem to be more forgiving to the grass. I'll probably hold onto the F2100 forever though, even if I upgrade.

[@michaelmactavish1728]

the new f2680's and f3990 has same setup and same parts

[@JourneymanRandy]

I would like to compare a f2680's and f3990 to what I have. Maybe in the future. There is also a F3560, F2560, F2880 and F3680. Thanks Michael

[@michaelmactavish1728]

yeah the GF1800,F2680,F2560,F2880,F3560,F3680 and F3990 they uses the same parts and same axels and same drum breaks and same parts wich is nice but the new 2017 Fseries made bit more floor plat form room with 39hp and key is on the side of the steering wheel wich did some gangeing on the new F 3990 wich is huge hp for a front mower but there all beefier and solid steel wich deeres and newhollands are all plastic and parts at deeres are rediculas pricey wich kubota is cheaper

[@michaelmactavish1728]

i find kubotas alot cheaper then other brand mowers out there

[@JourneymanRandy]

Hey Michael. How are you? I just bought an F3680. Any thoughts?