My Saab 9-3 appears to have a Failing Engine! Here is a compression test

[@rao-foto]

It could be a sign of engine main end bearings worn to such a degree that oil is "leaking" past the bearings reducing oil pressure. Neither valves or piston rings would give low oil pressure, head gasket leaking oil is super-rare. I'm holding a bet on worn out components. Either main-end bearings or oil pump drive gear/timing cover. Also check that the oil pressure relief valve in the timing cover is moving freely in the timing cover. It's spring-loaded, but can score and get stuck. Looking at the timing cover from the front of it (through the wheel well) there is a screw mounted vertically up into the timing cover on the right hand side of the crank. Unscrew this and be aware that it is spring loaded as you remove it, and you'll find the relief valve. Your compression values aren't great, they're on the low side, but they're all within 10% of each other and wouldn't cause low oil pressure. Normally these engines are in the 150-200 psi range all depending on age and wear of course. Don't remember, but did you replace the O-rings for the crossover pipe in the crank housing when you did the sump drop on this? If not, then I'd do those first, those are very common to fail once you've worked in their vincinity and don't replace them. They will start leaking slightly and give low oil pressure on low RPMs

[@KylePancis]

good insight! how easy or hard is the main-end bearings? I did put a new pump in when i replaced the engine...not sure if it would fail so soon (43k miles).

[@rao-foto]

@@KylePancis You can do them from below when dropping the sump, someone else in the comments described it well how to check clearance and how to replace them if need be.

[@larijauhiainen8596]

@@KylePancis I would put a oil-pressure sensor (you can install it easily to the oil filter adapter) and check if the oil pressure drops in high temps.That would explain a lot.

[@brettkramer]

@@larijauhiainen8596 There is already an oil pressure sensor on the back of the block, it might not hurt to change it out, it's only a $20 part and if it's bad, it would be an easy fix.

[@jompemc]

AnotherSaabStory covered everything you need to check before doing a rebuild or tearing the engine apart. The crossover pipe o-rings, oil pressure relief valve in the timing chain cover. Same for the compression, low but within 10%. Also I thought I heard the chain rattle a bit when you started the car at 7:25 ish. The slow startup could be as you said the starter or battery, or both. Most likely starter, they go tired and I've changed a few with great results. Keep up the Saabin if you are gonna do a rebuild, do a T5/T7 hybrid build or go for forged pistons with all new bearings and chain etc.

[@KylePancis]

Yes, prob the starter as its original to car. That chain rattle does go away after car warms a little bit. Would the low compression have anything to do with the cross pipe o-rings and/or relief valve?

[@jompemc]

@@KylePancis No, those do not affect the compression. The only thing I can think of is if the low pressure overtime has worn the rings out prematurely. Worn valve seats/guides and/or worn piston rings would be the reason in your case. A tip is to do the compression test again one cylinder at a time. After the first reading on each cyl, put some drops of oil down the cylinder and redo the test. If the pressure increases, it's the rings. If not, the problem is in the head.

[@xb7659]

Hi Kyle, in my opinion, the best way to detect blow-by effects is the leakdown test. You can have very good compression results with high blow-by (recently approved on a B235E, 4 equal & good pressure values but big hissing noise around the oil filler plug during the test -> piston rings stuck due to carbonized oil) ! Best regards from France !

[@rucker225]

Here is my first comment to you. Last year, I bought a 2002 convertible identical to yours but with only 75,000 original miles on it. I’ve only driven it one year and only put 10,000 miles on it ( I am still in love with it!) This is my second Saab but my first convertible and first turbo. I’ve been working on cars since age 5 and I worked on Saabs back in the 1980s (just giving you my credentials). I am extremely familiar with the quirkiness of Saab’s and I would never drive my convertible when it’s 100° outside for about 10 hours, you are asking for it!!! Solution to the problem, don’t drive it for a long time when it’s 100° outside!

[@KylePancis]

haha. it is hot...not snowy thats for sure

[@MassiveTrackHunter]

Also make sure your compression gauge set is new. My ten year old gauge set scared the heck out of me when my 09 2.0T tested out at 120psi, when it should have been 210. Almost tore the head off, but at the last second I bought a new gauge set to double check. Tested out at above 210psi on all 4. The old gauge apparently deteriorated while sitting on the shelf...

[@christophercarson3143]

Just recently had my b204 tested and got 180 across all 4 cylinders. Iv no clue what it's supposed to be but my mechanic was very pleased to see something so equal across all 4

[@un-_-known688]

You can put a diffrent bov on try get more crank case preasure also adjusting the bov gives you more idleing power

[@brettkramer]

Your starter is most likely old and worn out, when I put a new / rebuilt starter on my 9-5, the difference was night and day, the new one was spinning much faster. Also, I was using Pennzoil 5W-30 Full Synthetic oil + Amsoil engine flush with every oil change, it was amazing how this combination cleaned all of the varnish off of the inside engine components, ( and I have the photos to prove it). A clean engine is bound to have better oil flow. I wouldn't have messed with the idle speed, I would reset to normal and solve the problem. I've never heard of sludge clogging your oil cooler, but it would be simple to take it off, flush it out to make sure. AnotherSaabStory has some great ideas as well.

[@simond.2957]

Hi Kyle, i think you have tow options. 1. You have an issue with your Oilthermostat. The Oil is to hot and you loose pressure. 2. You have bad bearings. - Crankshaft, Balancershaft or Rodbearings. I have the same Problem on my B235R.

[@KylePancis]

where should i begin?

[@simond.2957]

I removed the engine and the engine builder checked all the bearings. The balancer bearing was the issue for a destroyed turbo and crankshaftbearing.

[@larijauhiainen8596]

Scratches in oil pump, or worned oil pump can cause oil pressure drop particulary in high temperatures.It is fairly easy to chanche and can save your engine.If you have had oil light, i would defenetly check main bearings, because in SAAB cases, if oil light is on, it is usually already too late.

[@Jonjs99]

That compression is verry good!

[@mario110360]

Drop the pan and do a bearing clearance check. Any auto parts store sells the tape the green one i believe. I replaced My rod and main bearings in the car not that hard. The main bearing by the flywheel was a little challenging but not hard. Keep checking Craigslist for engines, found a 03 SE with 410000 smashed for $750.00 complete.... turbo, alternator, starter and and everything to drop in and drive. Good luck and SAAB ON.....

[@mds2465]

It probably is sludge buildup honestly. Unfortunately I think with Saab’s it’s just one of those things that happens with age. Regardless of how well you maintain the car. Of course the previous owners lack of maintenance or lack there of on this engine could have led to this happening. I would also recommend checking out the turbo as well because I know those often get carboned up with age. I would try the liquiMolly stuff that Randy used on his channel. That often does wonders in situations like this. It’s worth a shot if anything for a first try.

[@mds2465]

Jx Po believe it or not that problem went away after he did that. I would’ve also pulled the oil pan myself as well as the valve cover and cleaned it out manually but that’s just me.

[@md-detailing]

Hope the 93 will make it ,i mean that the Saab will be fixable,great video as always Kyle :D

[@KylePancis]

Thank you! shes not going anywhere!! will get it addressed

[@BenzFarm-o9o]

I've got a 2001 93 convertible with similar compression numbers, I get lots of gasses pushing out of the oil filler and the low engine light flickering. Car runs great, no smoke from the tail pipe. Don't know what to do. P.S. pcv system was upgraded a while back.

[@waynehung4801]

I am 2000 9-3 owner. It is recommended to have 5W50 or at least 0W40/5W40 with specification of over 14 cst under 212F(Amsoil 0W40 can be referrence). In our Saab 9-3 owner group, even with 5W50 in hot days above 90F with high loading driving, the oil pressure will drop significantly compare to cooler days specially when oil has been used 2 or 3000 miles from oil pressure gauge indication. If you are running 5W30 or 0W30, it will not be suprise d the oil pressure is low in 100F environment and when the car slow down or idle, the oil temperature keep climbing then further thin out with dropping oil pressure. However, in cold weather you may consider 5W30 or 0W30. Hope this will give you some references of the oil pressure issue.

[@MassiveTrackHunter]

That start up sounded a bit like worn rod bearings, but barely. T-in a digital oil pressure sender and good stepper motor pressure gauge to check true oil pressure at that pressure port. My gauge is mounted on the driver's pillar, and a big peace of mind to see how she is doing. Rod bearings can be swapped out when pan is dropped, as long as the crank rod-bearing journals are still pristine and the wear is within spec, but closer to factory minimum. Plastigauge the main and rod bearings after dropping the pan. It is not hard to do. The bearing shells will give you clues depending on how they look, so take pics. Only remove and replace one cap at a time and make sure they are the correct direction before retorquing. Spec on Mains is like .012-.067mm, rods .02-.067. Mine are around .025-.035 all around, so not bad, but 10w40 in the warmer months is a must at this level of wear. The oil pump on these can go bad eventually. It is inside the front timing cover, driven by the crank, and the pump housings have been known to wear out. I have yet to check mine. I did go from 12psi at idle to 22psi at idle by just replacing the 3 o-rings in the pan, after taking your advice. Thanks for that!!

[@MassiveTrackHunter]

That slight rattle could be the A/C compressor too. Turn it off and see if the noise goes away.

[@jompemc]

The rattle is definitely the timing chain, had that rattle on various 9-5s.

[@MassiveTrackHunter]

@@jompemc well if he does go the timing chain route he'll certainly be easily able to replace the oil pump and housing too since it's in the same area on the front of the motor.

[@jompemc]

@@MassiveTrackHunter Yes!

[@MassiveTrackHunter]

Keep the oil fresh in the meantime. Pretty tough motor.

[@theweslles]

What do you use to repel water an snow on the soft top? If seen 303 be used just wondering your inputs

[@MassiveTrackHunter]

Honestly that last start and engine running hot sounded fine, just needing a new battery or starter most likely. I will be suprised if you have bearing issues. Are your spark plugs fouling up? Bad rings will cause oil fouled plugs pretty quick.

[@KylePancis]

plugs are fresh and look good! no fouling

[@jackom11]

Agree it sounds like a new battery is in order

[@un-_-known688]

How did you change the rpm idle ? Tec2?

[@KylePancis]

Yes!

[@jeffschmitt7244]

I have a 2002 Saab 9-3 SE Convertible that I've applied three treatments of Xado (Xado.us) to, and that does at least seem to noticeably restore compression. That's only my personal opinion, however, as I have not measured with gauges. That was over 3 years ago and no negatives at all to using it with constant driving (primary vehicle) and a maintenance application of once per year. I've also tried Pulstar plugs for higher humidity environments, which work great for that. However, my cassette was very unhappy with those Pulstar plugs, so I've since switched back to using the NGK plugs. Maybe these? www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/6602/Spark-Plug-Platinum-PFR7H10/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1M7N-7ip6wIViJyzCh0PgQaaEAQYASABEgIkqvD_BwE FWIW I'm located in Atlanta, GA.

[@darenwilkieson6676]

Hi...how’s the engine sound when the oil light comes on...if it sounds fine a quick change of the oil pressure switch to rule it out 👍

[@KylePancis]

sounds and runs perfect

[@darenwilkieson6676]

Kyle Pancis you could try changing the oil pressure switch to rule it out.I have experienced a pressure switch that throws a light when oil gets hot and thin

[@djr4840]

I would reach out to a Peter Robson out in East Long Island. He’s reputably one of the most knowledgeable and honest Saab techs in the northeast.

[@KylePancis]

awesome. thank you

[@martinclapton2724]

Compressions on test show each cylinder within 10% of one another so would assume reasonably ok. You can re- test by first putting a drop of oil into each cylinder and if readings increase will possibly indicate valve wear. However, might be just a sensor. . Take her for run ,do oil flush ,drain her overnight , new fresh oil & filter in morning ( I'd stick to W5-30 ) . Then perhaps oil light sensor . Cheaper options 1st before thinking " this is a big Bill ahead"

Well known, all older Saabs sounds like they have bad battery, its the starter motor wearing. Just replace dont try restore it yourself.

[@tomjonese8852]

re torque the head bolts 1st