Land Rover Series IIa starting issues Part Deux

[@conrad1468]

Ha ha!! I’ve been shocked like that before. Proper reaction!!! Ha ha!! It seems like the starter is not getting the full voltage to rotate the engine quick enough. Maybe clean the high power wire going to the starter and ground?!?! I’m rewiring my floor switch to 3 house switch in my dash.

[@churchhouseclassics]

done all the electrics, I think there is a pole out on the starter motor, it does crank quite happily but could be quicker.

[@mattluszczak8095]

Dude battery abit flat aswell lol. Is if flat from continuous cranking?

[@churchhouseclassics]

Absolutely. This car usually starts on a very slow starter and about 2 turns of the engine. The battery was probably flat

[@neilmillar7073]

Good informative video as usual. How is your 'stunt' finger doing?

[@churchhouseclassics]

Thanks 😁 Finger is on the mend, feeling is still absent on the side nearest my index finger which is an arse.

[@highdownmartin]

Should be a parental warning for 2.40. !! Good old mechanics Tourette's. Couldn't have done my tdi conversion without it! Seriously though Isn't the cranking speed a little slow? Could be starter motor brushes?

[@churchhouseclassics]

All my videos need a parental warning :) and I am probably not allowed to release the "bloopers" as they will shock even the most hardened viewer 😁. When I get time I will pull the motor, last time I had one behaving like this one pole was completely dead

[@alanallington1001]

I think a new battery would also help.

[@churchhouseclassics]

had it drop tested and it is on the tired side but still efficient, it holds 12.5v, tested 1 day after a full charge, issue is that it has a mechanical pump fuel feed, I expect that the non return valve is not working anymore and therefore lots of cranking before starting and short journeys kills the battery off

[@philhealey449]

If battery is definitely healthy a jump lead from battery earth to near the starter will verify if the earth path is in trouble from corroded earth strap etc. My Series One does not have this desperate cranking speed. Also could distributor advance be stuck or timing too far advanced as it seems to fire before TDC which stops steady cranking ?

[@highdownmartin]

Britpart floor dips might look identical to the lucas item. They're not! Much too notchy and horrible. Put a gen one my 109. Instant improvement

[@churchhouseclassics]

I think both the old and definitely the new are Britpart, nasty and notchy. will look out for an OE switch

[@adrianbeech2363]

I do hope you didn't double dip the vaseline , you know that annoys Cearth !!!!!!!

[@davidtoyne3224]

You also have the timing too far advanced.

[@churchhouseclassics]

where should they be? this is now set as per the manual. did the usual trick of advancing and retarding either side to get the sweet spot 👍

[@davidtoyne3224]

@@churchhouseclassics At around 30 seconds in and 3:45 you can hear the engine hitting back against the starter. That means the ignition is too far advanced and it is trying to drive the engine backwards against the starter. As for timing, it will depend on fuel. I must admit I use high octane (98) in mine as it is better quality fuel and for the miles it does, it really doesn't matter. On that, I run 10 degrees advanced dynamic and it goes well. On 91 octane I think somewhere around 4 degrees. It was only an observation, but I have seen it many times. Well done with the landie by the way.

[@churchhouseclassics]

@@davidtoyne3224 Thanks for the info. I think now at the end of this video it is running sweeter

[@suacon]

I agree... check your timing. greetings

[@churchhouseclassics]

@@suacon it is running 3btdc and is now starting easily (once the mechanical fuel pump delivers)