Coanda Screen Intake Manifold for Micro Hydro

The Coanda screen has been installed on the micro hydro intake. Now its time to connect the intake the poly pipes that will carry water to the air separation tank. I know there are fittings that can do this but I wanted to make a manifold out of parts laying around the house. This manifold has worked well for a few weeks now.
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[@AbdicateDotNet]

You make it so I wish I had a mountain with a stream to mess with!! 😁👏👏👏

[@LandtoHouse]

For sure! Water was the main thing i looked for years ago when I purchased land.

[@muhammedcheruvatta5352]

I used this system in govt property and made a dam but cops 👮‍♀️ breaked it

[@diydarkmatter]

now your cooking with peanut oil . for them leaks i think roofing tar would work just fine . but if you ever wanted to make it last forever find a aluminum box or make one and ether rivet that other box with the screen to it with a rubber seal im sure you could use a ole tire . wood will work for a long time but aluminum will never rot is stronger and will look better . as far as sealing it if the other box with the screen is aluminum you could use alumawield get it at harbor freight . all you need is a torch and its just like brazing . or soldering . there is alot you could do . but if the wood is working out for you run with it . you just might have to fix it once in a while . good luck hope your doing good and had a happy halloween

[@udos46]

I would clearly see a primary grid above the wooden crate until it ends on the descent, the water and dirt enters the top and falls into the primary tank which overflows into the secondary tank but with fewer leaves and the like also try to build a twister sleeve to create a vortex that accelerates the flow of water in the pipeline use the orange road cones from the coanda filter to the down pipe instead of suddenly you come out of the tub with a small diameter and then it widens and tightens again so it is also good for a home plumbing pipe, but not for a micro hidro system some gate valves already have a revolving ball with an opening smaller than the diameter of the pipe, they create unnecessary turbulence with relative pressure drops wishes anyway for your great commitment

[@fyremoon]

A couple of suggestions: The first is that if you decide to fit a metal flap from the wood box, if you bend the end so that it sits on the top of the coanda, and apply some silicone sealant around the wood and this metal flap to prevent water from seeping under it, you'd rule out any leaks. The second one is that you can create a couple of baffles that direct the stream into the coanda so that when the flow rate is higher, it will be channelled through the coanda. Would lagging help to prevent the pipes from freezing during the Winter months?

[@RahmatTaluaks]

This tecnique is a solution for me

[@robertcooper9384]

Seph you should check out "Kris Harbour Natural Building" he built a really really good hydro system super similar to yours. See what you think!

[@LandtoHouse]

Yes I have watched his videos for a while now. Seems he has also gone through a lot of the same intake tests that I have haha.

[@NithinJune]

i have no idea what is happening youtube just recommended me this video

[@LandtoHouse]

Ha well thanks for watching. I have installed a micro hydro system and this is a specialized water intake.

[@MarkRose1337]

π 2² = 12.6 sq in. π 1.25² = 4.91 sq in. I'd definitely run the two inch line myself. Don't know if it would pay for itself, but it would be fun.

[@LandtoHouse]

Nice math. So three 1.25" pipes would cover it well.

[@MarkRose1337]

@@LandtoHouse I'd say so! Time to drill another hole in that manifold :D

[@patrickhoffmann8893]

@@MarkRose1337 Yes, the cross sectional area of a 1.25" pipe represent only 39% of a 2" pipe cross sectional area (1.25²/2²). With two 1.25" pipes you will get 78% (so still less than at 2"), and with three 1.25" pipes you get 117%. Considering the larger friction losses in the tighter 1.25" pipes you will need at least three 1.25" to not to restrict your flow.

[@aldos.308]

Hi, I’m from Brasil 🇧🇷 and I just to buy just some metal screen. Can you help me to indicate where I found it, please?

[@BobBob-il2ku]

Have you considered trying to cast the intake box out of cement it would bother me knowing that the pressure treated wood will eventually rot.

[@LandtoHouse]

Eventually I will probably have a metal box made. That way I can still remove it if I need to make some changes. Concrete might be a pain to haul up that far. Either way a better angle is needed for the coanda screen.

[@mikedurham4448]

2 pipes = more friction = reduced efficiency .. but still works ..

[@JaseTheAussie]

Hahaha - Pretty sure not tearing your hand up is called being smart, not being a pansy :) Great video, informative as usual.

[@Jsak666]

Your probably getting a lot of turbulence around your uniseal internally that will slow your flow rate, maybe something to think about.

[@davebean2886]

Do you have a source for the Coanda screen. I think they are very expensive. How much less debris do they collect compared to your initial screen? Thanks.

[@LandtoHouse]

Langstons Alternative Power is now selling them through Elgin. They are very costly. Roughly $600 to $700. The coanda is far stronger at taking rocks than the other screen. It also prevents much more debris.

[@davebean2886]

@@LandtoHouse Thanks. I'll probably start out switching to your screen box from the PVC drilled tubes with screens first to test the box concept first because of cost. I have a limited fall consideration with only 30 Inches of fall and a need for as much delivered water as possible for irrigation. Still reductions in frequency of screen cleaning may justify the Coanda cost. Two other ideas are to (1) increase the size of the input filter tubes to 3 or 4 inch drilled and screened PVC pipes so maybe can go longer between cleaning or (2) since we have quite a bit of extra creek water available, try sending much more water through the top of the box screen than it can take in. .... A variation might be to create a faster moving channel for the tubes rather than having them sit in a calmer water next to the berm.

[@aldos.308]

Hi, I’m from Brasil 🇧🇷. Do you know if we can found only the metal screen (filter). I think if is possible to do a box at home. Sorry my English.

[@aknighttrain]

Hi Seth. Been watching your vids for a while now, and I'm very interested in setting up a micro hydro, along with using it to provide fresh water to my cabin here in Alaska. We've got a creek much bigger than yours about 900' from the cabin, and I estimate that it would be a 110' head. I could get more head fairly easily if I wanted - the creek is quite steep. What could I expect, power wise, of twin 2" lines running to the cabin with a microhydro turbine with that kind of head?

[@LandtoHouse]

Thank you for watching! A single 2" pipe can carry around 30gpm max at that head pressure. Based on friction loss. So you could have around 60gpm flowing down that creek. The power formula is: (head pressure in feet X GPM)/10= power So (110 X 60)/10=660w. That is a lot of power. More head pressure gives you even more power of course.

[@aknighttrain]

@@LandtoHouse thank you! One more question - due to friction, would I be substantially better off using a single 4" pipe or would it be roughly the same? I have to haul everything on my jetboat or on snowmachine, as we're 20 miles upriver from the nearest road - 2" pvc pipe is a lot easier to handle and, of course, manipulate around trees running down from the creek to the cabin.

[@MarkRose1337]

@@aknighttrain A single 3" pipe has slightly more capacity than two 2" pipes. If you have the water for a 4 inch line, I'd consider it though, because the extra water can be used for electric heat, which means a lot less firewood chopping. I'd take a look at the MrHydrohead channel for inspiration.

[@rupe53]

@@MarkRose1337 ... the size of his turbine really doesn't have that much in the way of extra power. On a good day the entire system probably isn't 1,000 watts, and most of that will go to batteries or powering the house.

[@danwilliams4877]

looking good there mate. Seems you have been eating well and doing some exercise. Good for you! Thanks again for the video

[@OraEtLabora0]

4:44 put up removable wire mesh dome/cage above it do that it captures falling leaves.

[@ChrisWright7701]

If I remember correctly when you had the stanless box on your beach there was some holes in the side panel maybe that is where the air is getting in the pipes

[@thefreedomwarrior]

I’ve noticed all the folks with the opinions have no videos on their channels. 🙄

[@matthewallen1394]

Solar ,dirty pump ,to ram pump To pump up I hill please

[@neverbroke642]

Could you put a ram pump on this system to make more flow

[@careyjohnson1784]

Good job

[@LandtoHouse]

Thank you. The system is working well!

[@robwhite2282]

always love your vids bro. Your do a great job of keeping the camera on targets as you are working.

[@LandtoHouse]

Thank you. Something exciting is about to arrive. A new camera with external mic !!!

[@patrickhoffmann8893]

@@LandtoHouse Oh, an external microphone, that is nice! A Lavalier with a wireless bridge? That got quite popular in the pandemic time.

[@phide01]

If you paint the inside with a water proof paint it’ll probably seal the leaks.

[@LandtoHouse]

Yes true. I would need to find a way to divert the water while I painted.

[@thelonewolf267]

@@LandtoHouse something like a beaver dam would work

[@rupe53]

@@LandtoHouse.... Flex Seal works underwater. They show that right on the commercial.

[@TheWolfster001]

You could get some silicone caulking and go all around it and that would work.. In the future I would dam it up a few feet higher to create a small pond and put your catchment higher up to it, that should increase your pressure by 10 to 15% or higher (when it rains)

[@LandtoHouse]

I do need to make the box more water tight. My neighbor has a hydro unit just up from my system so I am not able to go up any further.

[@dj.feddy.hotmetal.3DAT..]

Make a water dam up side it

[@fizzguts]

Move your barrel up to only just below the screen offtake and run your 2" line from there. This will increase your head. Same volume more pressure hence more power. You are wasting pressure by having an unsealed barrel well below the dam and screen.

[@LandtoHouse]

There is 150 feet of pressure currently. That extra 5 feet is approximately 15watts lost.

[@knighthauler4792]

I'm wondering if there is more friction with 3 smaller diameter pipes than 1 bigger one.

[@LandtoHouse]

Interesting idea. The drop and distance is so small I am not sure it makes much difference. But because the run is so short I could just go 2" in the spring when the weather is warmer.

[@portnuefflyer]

What's all this talk about air separation? My hydro's intake also uses a coanda screen, it's built right into the top of a stainless box, with a 3" outlet, 3" line runs downhill 147 vertical feet in 1/4 mile, to the Harris hydro unit. 14 years now and it works great, (a bit over 900 watts) this air separation thing is new to me. Any new commercial type building will have an EPDM roof, and there will be lots of misc. scraps in the dumpsters! Great stuff for misc. hydro uses.

[@LandtoHouse]

Wow to make 900w you must have a lot of water. My guess is that is the difference between our systems. I only have 10 to 30gpm so air is an issue.

[@portnuefflyer]

@@LandtoHouse That's my max, for my 3" line, late in the year, like now, it drops to 3-400 watts, before I bag it for the winter. It's not freeze proof, though i can run it until single digit temps, an overnight dip to 15 or 20 isn't a problem.I didn't mention that I do have a tee about 3' down from my collection box, with a screened opening, pointing up. That's so when I close the big ball valve on the box outlet, the line can drain without creating a vacuum, but maybe it also works to get air out?

[@jclowe735]

That's a nice micro hydro set up you have. Which between solar and micro hydro supplies the most power for you and did you think about a wind turbine or look into owning a wind turbine for when there's no sun or there's not enough water for the micro hydro?

[@LandtoHouse]

I now have 3kw of solar so that is currently the most power. Hydro for summer and fall only does 100w continously. 360w in spring. We have so little wind here it would not do well. Between 1 and 4 mph winds.

[@jclowe735]

@@LandtoHouse what do you do when there's little to no water flow for the turbine and no sun for the solar?

[@celticqaidbear]

I would extend the rubber into box. Or you could use silicone sealer.

[@LandtoHouse]

I actually filmed that a couple weeks ago. It has worked well! That video should be out Thursday or next Sunday.

[@thomasknight-wagener6630]

cheers mate, i hope you took my advice

[@LandtoHouse]

Sorry I have forgotten what that was.

[@jllaine]

I have been wondering just how tight of a radius the uniseal can work in, and sealing a 1-1/4" in the side of a 3" pipe is amazing. Thanks for sharing this. If you are going to pull and clean the main jet, I'd like to suggest replacing this one "always on" jet with a smaller one that won't deplete your barrel/catchment during the low water volume part of the year. It won't produce as much power, but some is better than none, and keeping it flowing during the winter will reduce the chance of it freezing up, and you have the other 3 to turn on during the "high flow" parts of the year.

[@MrJFoster1984]

2:33 Lube is over rated lol

[@LandtoHouse]

Haha

[@patrickhoffmann8893]

A couple of 2"-T-pieces (or actually only one T-piece) would have worked also. And you would be able to easyly extend it to a 3rd outlet: Just add another T-piece. Are you going to let the turbine run over winter?

[@LandtoHouse]

Yes so many ways to make that connection. I had these things laying around the shop and I always look for a chance to use Uniseal haha. I am going to try running the system all winter. I might turn it off when the temp is going to be 5 degrees for a week.

[@jllaine]

@@LandtoHouse While other ways would have worked, this one has been waiting its turn for a long long time and I'm glad to see you finally tested this and that it worked well putting a uniseal in the side of a 3" pipe.

[@patrickhoffmann8893]

@@LandtoHouse > ... and I always look for a chance to use Uniseal Haha, I somehow was anticipating this.

[@gordonwilloughby8793]

As long as there is water running of the screen the leak in the space above it you were talking about putting rubber over the wood won't make much difference until you add the 3rd pipe or water flow reduces. I think aluminum flashing might work better because you could bend the edge up to reduce loss in water on the edge.

[@micks9580]

I see you are wearing your wedding band. Did you and the Missus work things out? I hope so.

[@LandtoHouse]

I am of the belief that marriage is more than an agreement between two people but with God as well. So until I am legally divorced I will uphold my end of the covenant. :)

[@kletusbobby7029]

@@LandtoHouse That's integrity right there.

[@LandtoHouse]

Thank you. It just seems like the right thing to do.

[@donbavol9672]

Just found your channel. Been going through the hydro series. I have a lot of engineering background with a big emphasis on heat transfer and fluid flow. Two 1.25" pipes have 50% less flow rate than one 2" pipe. So, if your flow for a single 1.25 is .5 gallon per second, two is 1 gallon per second, the single 2" is going to be 1 gallon per second. That is calculated using a 10 foot pipe length with standard friction and a 2 foot drop over the length.

[@donbavol9672]

UGH. The single 2" is going to be 1.51 gallon per second.

[@LandtoHouse]

Thank you for watching. So I really need to add the extra (3rd) 1-1/4" pipe to the manifold to make sure all the water is getting to the silt barrel?

[@donbavol9672]

@@LandtoHouse Yes, to match the flow of a 2 inch. The problem isn't diameter, it is friction. You have way more friction on more smaller pipes. It would be ideal if you could just use a single 2 inch. The flow is optimized for that. Far less friction and backpressure.

[@LandtoHouse]

@@donbavol9672 because a 3rd 1-1/4" pipe is still sitting next to that unused I will use it. Buying 2" pipe is very costly at the moment.

[@donbavol9672]

@@LandtoHouse Totally agree. Just wanted to put the science out there so everyone else can get that information. It is important to understand all the dynamics that make up fluid flow, but the basic idea is there is far more friction involved than people will give credit. Once you start thinking around those terms, you will be able to more carefully chart out your usage.

[@michaelfisher3217]

Good one bro

[@LandtoHouse]

Thank you.

[@jdendsleyutube]

WHERE CAN I BUY THESE UNISEALS

[@AppalachianLife]

Amazon has them

[@LandtoHouse]

I like to get them from here: www.aussieglobe.com/uniseal1.htm

[@danieldragota2985]

Hi,....

[@LandtoHouse]

Hello.

[@ob1kamoody242]

Just a quick calculation … 1x 2” pipe should move approximately 20% more water than 2x 1.25” of course there are more forces such as friction but I’m only using internal area to figure that …. Keep up the videos very interesting 👍🏻👍🏻

[@LandtoHouse]

Thanks for the math! I will add the 3rd 1.25" pipe so there is no issues.

[@ajithkannan4818]

Wonderful way to learn I'm very curious about learning new things you made it very much interested and thanks for sharing info.

[@LandtoHouse]

I am also learning as I go. Thank you for watching.

[@OBD01]

Looking like the mounting of Coanda intake is very important the small adjustments you did made big difference

[@LandtoHouse]

For sure. I need to make a new support on the rock to bring the box out away and level it out.