Laser Etching Acrylic - xTool D1

Laser etching acrylic and fabrication of display bases.
Using the xTool D1 10W Laser.
Feel free to like, post comments or ask questions.
In the case of clear acrylic the diode laser will pass through the material because of the wave length of the laser. There are two methods I have seen used to etch acrylic. One is using a coating on the top or bottom surface of the acrylic and etching by burning the coating directly applied to the substrate. I did not care for the idea of applying any coating directly to the acrylic and having to remove it. Also I like the effect of the etching on the bottom/back side of the acrylic as it looks much better in the finished product. As a result, I use a piece of steel sheet metal that I paint with gray spray primer (can be reused over and over just sand and re-primer) and place the acrylic directly on it. The laser passes through the acrylic and burns the primer on the steel which then etches the acrylic.
Some keys to my success:
• Proper Image Prep - For basic monochrome images, like logos or single-color pictures not much needs to be done and the basic software can handle it. Complex images like photos need good processing to create quality raster files. I use an online tool imag-r.com to process my images (output material = Norton Acrylic). Note the output is an inverse black and white of the original and will look to have poor quality on your computer screen but it is exactly what the laser likes for acrylic. The image will also be a mirror of the original and I just use the basic software to flip it back as I etch the underside of the material not the top surface and do not need it mirrored.
• Less is More - The space between the pixels of the image actually make them look better. So, I will adjust the “lines per CM” down. In many of the photos I adjust down to 50 lines per CM and have better clarity of faces and detail in the etching. You will need to experiment to get the best result.
• Laser Focus - Focus the laser to the sheet metal not the top acrylic surface. You are lasering the primed metal and the heat from the process is what etches the acrylic.
• Machine Settings (10W xTool D1) - For my shop and machine I use Power = 36% and Speed = 80 mm/s.
• Cleaning the Residue - I clean with a soft cloth and isopropyl alcohol. Patience and circular motion will remove and not scratch the acrylic.

[@Mjvied]

You have produced some of the best ( clearest ) acrylic burns I have seen with a D1. Thank you very much for sharing.

[@michaelhinton]

Thank you! I was very pleased with the results myself. When doing detail, like photographs, the biggest realization was less is more. So, the reduction in density made the biggest difference. Counterintuitive, but it made a huge difference. Many scrapped pieces of acrylic learning that. Also, polishing the edges of the acrylic, I feel, allows more light to penetrate into the piece helping as well. Again thank you for watching.

[@plosscrot]

Thank you, thank you.... I have just bought an M1 and am pulling my hair out trying to engrave on clear cast acrylic. Now I have seen this, I KNOW it will do it... Definite new subscriber, your video gave me back my confidence as you are making what I am trying to make! I must confess, I have only had thee machine 1 day, but when I saw what I was getting and what you are getting, NO comparison!.. Thanks again.

[@michaelhinton]

You are welcome. If you have any questions let me know. Good luck!

[@plosscrot]

@@michaelhinton Are you UK or US Michael?

[@michaelhinton]

US

[@plosscrot]

@@michaelhinton Hi. I seem to have some burn on my acrylics. However, yours appears thicker than mine which may answer the Q. How thick is your acrylic it looks thicker than 3mm which is what I am using. Also, Im assuming you are using "cast" acrylic. Cheers. John

[@michaelhinton]

I use 1/4" (6.3 mm) acrylic from a big box store. I believe it is continuous cast. I have not experienced burning but when experimenting I did notice that slow laser speeds and/or complex images that intensify the laser in a small area can cause minor fracturing in the acrylic. I reduced the Lines per CM to around 50 on the complex images to fix the problem. The Power = 36% and the Speed = 80mm/s. Hope that helps. Good luck!

[@lylebrown6132]

The things you made are beautiful just wish you would've shown more of making them start to finish. The music you chose was beautiful and I enjoyed that very much.

[@michaelhinton]

Thank you! I am looking into making some "how to" videos that will go into more detail on making the components of the project. Again thank you!

[@lymangerrish1913]

@@michaelhintonThat would be awesome, the music was pretty good but I really wanted to hear about the process and the materials

[@EdwardElric13th]

I like it! You should do a step by step diy video of how you made them and what materials to use. Keep it up!

[@michaelhinton]

Thank you for the comment. That is good idea and I may look into doing something educational. Again thank you.

[@PeterMobilin13]

YES!!! Please do a instructional video for us!!! That would be amazing!

[@michaelhinton]

Kellon - I have been thinking through how I would go about making an instructional video. I am thinking it would possibly be done in several videos. I would break it into the following videos: Base Construction (2 examples: simple base and slightly more complex - wood working techniques), Electrical Components & Assembly (12 volt system with LED lighting) and Acrylic Etching (image prep with software, acrylic blank prep and burning the image). Does this sound like something that would interest you? If so, what is of most interest to you?

[@jeffreycanfora1091]

I think the etching process would be of most interest. With the description and comments, I think most people at least have a laser and some working knowledge with it. The base woodwork and electrical is equally interesting to me as well, but I do have routers, jigs, and saws and various wood species of n hand.

[@usmanij508]

This would be great. I have done etching but end up having Scrathes which I hate. Looking to do direct engrave.. with best setting. I love these.

[@o.t.b1876]

Thanks for the vid and the description! Keep up the good work

[@michaelhinton]

Thank you!

[@alexismarie4993]

Your video is extremely helpful. New subscriber here! Thank you.

[@michaelhinton]

Thank you for watching! Much appreciated!

[@TheAjazzydoll]

This was a greatly detailed video tutorial.

[@michaelhinton]

Thank you!

[@asmrsoundstriggers]

Great video, just got yourself a new subscriber. Can't wait for your new videos

[@michaelhinton]

Thank you!

[@morogoyo]

This is bad A** I love it. you should make a video explaining the process.

[@michaelhinton]

Thank you for watching! I am hoping to have some time to do an educational set of videos. Again thank you!

[@mrob5278]

You are a genius. I on the other hand am not. Just a quick stupid question but where did you get the steel plate? How thick is it? The grey paint, just any kind of grey colored paint primer? Thank you in advance.

[@michaelhinton]

The sheet metal I am using is not very thick. It is either a 18 or 20 ga I had lying around. You can get it at a big box store or even at online metal stores. The primer I use is just a basic grey primer again available at a big box store. I clean the primer off and sand the metal with 220 and re-prime so I can keep reusing the sheet metal. You just want a good even coat of primer. I usually coat with 2 thin coats just to make sure it is even and clean. Nothing special on the materials. Hope that helps. Good luck!

[@parjotchanel1806]

great idea, unfortunately you didn't show the process from the start, thank you for your video it really helped me ❤️

[@michaelhinton]

Sorry. The intent of the video was too entertain and maybe inspire friends and family, not to be educational/instructional. If there is enough interest I am more than willing to do something educational. What skill sets would you look for an educational video to be created for? Thank you for the feedback.

[@davidmonaghan7676]

@@michaelhinton ABSOFREAKINLUTELY!!! I am learning from you and all the other great guys that take the time to show us how to do what you do and ease the brain pain that I experience over learning. (I told my wife if i don't recognize her some morning..I had to delete some information to take in MORE information and it's a process!!!)

[@aaronmoody7408]

Appreciate the video. Very nice work.

[@michaelhinton]

Thank you!

[@All-Is-well489]

Can I do same with xTool 5w engraver? How do you make the engraving color black? Thanks

[@michaelhinton]

I am not certain what the 5w will be able to do but you will have to experiment. I put a fair amount of detail in the description of the video and maybe doubling the power and cutting the speed in half might be a good starting point as my laser is 10w. The “etched” part of the acrylic catches the light so black would be considered no etch on the acrylic. Again the description speaks to how I manipulated the image with software. Hope that helps and good luck!

[@brightsides6581]

Hi it's really appreciatiable i am inspiring with your informative videos it's a kind request to your greatself kindly tell the how long does xtool d1 machine runs what are service to be required and if tools or spare parts need to replace after some time like laser head, belt or anything else and how to engrave clear acrylic and what's the material you have placed under the acrylic,

[@michaelhinton]

I have owned my machine for about 3 months and have run it for approximately 30 hours of runtime. I have not had to replace any parts at this point. For the acrylic lasering I use a piece of standard sheet metal that I have painted with gray primer. I set the laser focus to the sheet metal surface as the laser burns the paint which then marks the acrylic.

[@crazyarabiangamer9740]

hello brother i really enjoyed your video and i have the same machine and im having trouble ethcing transpatent acrylic i tried doing the tempera paint and lasering on top but it didnt worth either i wanna try your method of grey primer but whats ur settings?

[@michaelhinton]

Power 36% and 80 mm/s. I wrote a bunch of detail in the main part that may help you as well. Focus is important as you are etching below the acrylic which gave me good results. Thank you for watching and good luck!

[@crazyarabiangamer9740]

@@michaelhinton and you just spray gtr primer on the metal sheet underneath and place the acrylic on top and it works correct? I apologies for asking a lot but I was wondering if it works on white acrylic too

[@michaelhinton]

Just paint the metal with primer like you would any object. Let the paint dry as normal. Place the clear acrylic on top of the metal. The laser passes thru the acrylic and burns the primer and that is what etches the material. There will be residual material left from the burning that cleans off with isopropyl alcohol and a soft cloth to not scratch the acrylic. I doubt it would work on acrylic that is not clear. The light needs to pass thru the acrylic to the primed metal. That is why you adjust the focus to the metal and not the acrylic. It can be tricky getting the guard to pass over the acrylic so adjust as close as you can. Again, good luck!

[@usmanij508]

Can you share setting and Material beneath. Is it metal or steel with paint. How you avoid scrathces. Would love a how to do video. I am your fan such a great work. 👍

[@michaelhinton]

Thank you for your nice comments. I have added a fair amount of detail into the description to help but here are the settings - Machine Settings (10W xTool D1) - For my shop and machine I use Power = 36% and Speed = 80 mm/s. The acrylic is placed on sheet metal that has been primered with gray primer. Check out the description as it gives a few tricks that seemed to get good results. I would love to do an instructional video and will hopefully find time to get to it. Again thank you for watching and good luck!

[@usmanij508]

@Michael Hinton Thanks for replying directly. I did not see description yes it has details indeed. Please do a video also have you tried with other colors. In case I meed to get silver color or golden. After its done with laser you wash it with something ? I am also interested how you make LED the process of making your own base. Its fascinating. Thanks

[@michaelhinton]

I will try to answer some of your questions: -Other colors - I have only used clear acrylic in my projects. Colored acrylic may cause some issues as the light from the laser may interact or be impacted by the different color in the acrylic not allowing it to pass through the material. I would recommend adding color to the LED light instead and I have used different colored LED lighting in the bases. -If the other color is referring to the paint on the metal i have only used gray primer. It works well and I did not try any other colors nor felt the need to experiment further. -After lasering I do clean the material. I use isopropyl alcohol and a very soft cloth, such as a micro fiber towel that is new or freshly washed, to not scratch the material (never use anything paper based as it will scratch). I have repaired scratches in the material using products and techniques you can find online but it takes a lot of effort and patience to buff them out. Avoid scratching by protecting the material as carefully as possible will save you time and aggravation. I hope that helps. I will see what I can do on making new videos but work and life seem to be competing for my time these days. Thank you for the kind words and also thank you for watching. Good luck and hope you have good results!

[@SarmadAlraed]

big likeeee ♥️

[@michaelhinton]

Thank you!

[@cavivalle]

Hi Michael, how are you? I love your work, thanks for sharing. I have 2 queries. 1- With which cutter did you make the groove under the wood where the cables go? , with a single pass or 2 or three to make it wide and deep. 2 I bought a 60 what laser but it hasn't arrived yet, for 3 mm acrylic, what power and speed for cutting, engraving and marking? And 2 mm, if possible, you recommend me. Thank you very much in advance, I'm new and I liked your video. Hug

[@michaelhinton]

Thank you for watching! The groves in the block were made using templates and a guide on my plunge router. The top grove I made in a single pass and used a straight bit slightly larger than the thickness of the acrylic blank. The cavity in the bottom was routed with a larger straight bit that could route deep. It took multiple passes as you can only route so deep with each pass. The template and guide defines the shape and you can make 1/2 inch or so cuts working deeper each time. It takes a bit of time to make that type of base but looks nice. I just laminated scrape wood I had in my shop to make up the blanks. If you look at the "Moon Phase" base it is much simpler as you do not cut a top grove but use laminated wood spacers to create the top opening. Prior to laminating I route out just enough space on the bottom pieces to hot glue the light source directly to the base. Further to simplify I did not put a switch on that base. If you wanted a switch you can buy inline switches. On the speed and settings you will need to experiment and run different tests with your laser. My laser is only 10 Watts so my settings will not be of much use for you. The details of what I use are in the video description but again you will need to learn your machine. There is a lot of content on KZbin of test patterns and techniques. Biggest thing to remember on clear acrylic the light frequency from a blue diode laser passes thru the material. As a result you burn the material below which marks the acrylic. You will need to take that into account when focusing your laser. There are other laser types that can mark clear acrylic directly but are very expensive. Hope that helps. Good luck and enjoy your new laser!

[@jamalalabbood1606]

the laser focus in x tool made by mechanic handle, if you make your focus on the metal plate then put the acrylic on it, the laser movement will hit the acrylic

[@michaelhinton]

It all depends on the thickness of the acrylic. The material I am using is thin enough that the gap between the protection shroud barely clears the acrylic and does not move it. I would recommend setting the focus as close as you can while clearing the acrylic so it does not get moved.

[@jamalalabbood1606]

@@michaelhinton you cut the acrylic by cnc then you use it with xtool

[@michaelhinton]

I cut the acrylic mechanically with miter and band saw and polished/buffed the edges. I don’t think you can cut the clear acrylic with the blue diode laser as the light frequency passes thru the material.

[@jamalalabbood1606]

@@michaelhinton what program you use to engrave the acrylic, I use light burn, if you used this program , what setting and do you use line or fill or what

[@michaelhinton]

I use the Laserbox Basic that came with the machine. Power = 36% Speed = 80 mm/s on the 10 watt laser. I will adjust the Lines per CM down on complex images like photos. I used 50 Lines per CM on the final photo in the video as it gave better clarity than the 100 which is the default. It seems the space between the laser dots works better on the acrylic. The logos in the video I just used the default 100 Lines per CM.

[@rpace6821]

Nice Work! Is this plugged into a AC or a DC transformer that plugs into a 110v outlet?? Not sure what the voltage of the LED lights use. Can you elaborate??? Thanks!

[@michaelhinton]

Thank you! The lights are 12 V DC. In the description are links to the materials used for the lights and the 12 V power supply I used. Thank you for watching! Hope that helps!

[@MrNiceGuy94]

Amazing video, Sir. Can I ask what was the thickness of the acrylic, please?

[@michaelhinton]

Thank you! It is 1/4 inch. I like how the thicker material looks with the light. I have not tried anything thicker.

[@MrNiceGuy94]

@@michaelhinton Thank you Michael for the reply. I just bought a 4mm acrylic sheet, what do you think will it give good results too? And one more question, the sheet under the acrylic has to be steel or can it be aluminium as well?

[@michaelhinton]

You should get pretty good results. The thinner material may require some adjustment on power but just run some tests. As far as aluminum not certain but the primer being burnt is what etches the acrylic so it may not matter. If the aluminum is really shiny just be extra careful on eye protection from reflected light. Good luck!

[@MrNiceGuy94]

@@michaelhinton One more question Sir, I was about to etch the acrylic sheet and then I realised that you wrote in the instructions to focus the laser to the metal sheet. So how do you do that? I mean if you push down the lever used for the focusing on the D1 to the metal sheet, you won't have enough clearance for the acrylic sheet. Or am I missing something?

[@michaelhinton]

@@MrNiceGuy94 Get as close as you can. My safety shield is almost touching the acrylic as it is running. You may want to make sure your safety shield is installed as high up in the body of the laser as it can be. There are 2 set screws that hold it in place. Hope that helps.

[@MervHernandez]

What power & speed did you go with in order to acheive this? This is kicking my butt, I just keep burning the acrylic. 🤦🏾‍♂️

[@michaelhinton]

Power = 36% and Speed = 80 mm/s on 10W laser. I am using primered steel plate under the acrylic and basically focusing on the the steel plate to burn the "backside" of the acrylic. What are you trying to burn? You may want to reduce the density of the image as well. On the photo images I would go to 50 lines per cm and also use an online tool to create the raster file. I put a lot of detail into the description on the video. Hope that helps and if you need any more suggestions let me know. You can get really good results just takes some experimentation. Good luck!

[@mannyoropeza9451]

Great video…

[@michaelhinton]

Thank you!

[@ONormanO]

Nice👍

[@michaelhinton]

Thank you.

[@AdamNieto]

Great video. About to try this myself but have a few questions. The steel sheet you use, is that galvanized? Are you printing with Laserbox or Lightburn? If Lightburn do you enable passthrough for the images as you've pre-processed them using imag-r?

[@michaelhinton]

Thank you. The steel is plain and coated with grey primer. I would be reluctant to use anything galvanized as the laser could have an adverse reaction with the galvanized material and produce some harmful vapors. Not certain on that but would be a concern I have. I am using Laserbox for my projects and it appears it does very little to the pre-processed image when imported and ultimately burned. Great questions and tank you for watching!

[@AdamNieto]

​@@michaelhinton Ok last question, in Laserbox do you change any of the advanced settings for the image? Like the image mode, sharpness, etc? I see you mentioned to lower the lines per CM.

[@michaelhinton]

No worries and great question! I usually max out the sharpness and leave the grey scale to default. It seems the r-image generated file has minimal impact from the grey scale adjustment. Run some practice pieces and when looking at them make sure the LED strip light is contacting the acrylic. It gives the best results. Good luck!

[@usmanij508]

@@michaelhinton so direct Acrylic and Grey base with inverted image ?

[@vdsmade]

👌😉super

[@michaelhinton]

Thank you!

[@_JustBeingCasual]

I was wondering, how do you power this, is there any safe way to power this for really cheap?

[@michaelhinton]

I am assuming you are asking about the power for the bases and lighting system. I power them using a 12 volt setup for safety reasons. The components I used are listed below. Total cost per unit made is about $6.50. Extremely low power consumption as well. Safe and reliable. You may be able to get or types of LED setups cheaper and even battery operated eliminating the need for the power supply. Hope that helps! LED Lights: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075LB9HK2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Power Supply: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FEOB4EI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Adapters: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GPQZ4EE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Switches: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08R5PLDBP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[@Rubi056]

What we’re your power and speed settings on this? Anything special between the acrylic and black card stock?

[@michaelhinton]

I abandoned the card stock and went to gray primed sheet metal. Easier and better results. Nothing between them. Clean the acrylic with soft cloth and isopropyl alcohol. Machine - Power 36% and Speed 80 mm/s

[@aab6908]

Hey Michael, Great Video-Info - I need some info, I have a Lightburn file for creating a burn test card and would like to burn a few tests on Clear Acrylic 4mm using xTool D1 10W. What would be a starting speed-power for the 1st burn? I am using a steel sheet with primer as you described. Also, if anyone has an air assist attachments, to Focus the laser to the sheet metal you would need to remove the air assist attachments. Last Question, any need to apply dishwashing liquid to the underside of the acrylic. Thanks in Advance

[@michaelhinton]

Thank you! - I use Laserbox Power=36% Speed=80 mm/s. Not certain how that translates to Lightburn but when I ran test burns there was a noticeable difference even at 2% increments. I would be careful in slowing down the laser as concentrated heat will crack the acrylic. - I would remove the air assist not needed and may not allow for proper focus. - With the primered steel no need for soap. I tried the soap and black tag board and did not get good results. Good luck!

[@aab6908]

@@michaelhinton Thank you!

[@sherrybernal4376]

Does the etching work on the clear acrylic because you have the dark gray background underneath it? I thought the blue laser could not cut clear acrylic. Thanks!

[@michaelhinton]

I replied to your other post.

[@ewilner]

do you offer classes. I am new and wanted to learn step by step from an experienced person. In Brooklyn

[@michaelhinton]

Sorry, no I have not offered classes, but an interesting thought. I may make some videos that are more educational. There has been some interest so I am thinking thru what could be done. I am limited on cameras and video production knowledge/capabilities and would not want to deliver something low quality. Stay tuned and we will see. Thank you for watching.

[@brightsides6581]

I am from india how can I buy it and which is the best model for engraving acrylic

[@michaelhinton]

As for specifically engraving clear acrylic, diode lasers may not be the best choice out there. The light wave passes straight through the material so you have to use various techniques to make it work. You may want to do more research online if that is all you want to do with your laser. I purchased the xTool D1 as it was affordable and can cut, engrave, etch and mark on many different substrates. As far as acrylic I just found a technique that works well for me and have achieved decent results. You can purchase the xTool D1 online at the following link. Hope that helps! www.xtool.com/collections/machine/products/portable-diode-laserbox-d1-for-laser-engraving-laser-cutting

[@robr6925]

Very nice video, please make detailed educational video. Thanks 👍

[@michaelhinton]

Thank you. Which parts are you most interested in? Base construction, electrical components, acrylic prep, image/software prep or laser operation?

[@robr6925]

@@michaelhinton I'm interested in all, maybe multi video?. My first pick base and electrical components.

[@richm.1583]

@@michaelhinton I would Happily set through All the above.

[@izwanmohd]

can itt cut transparent acrylic with the same method?

[@michaelhinton]

The blue diode laser cannot cut clear acrylic. The light passes directly thru the material. Even the marking/etching of the clear acrylic is achieved from the primer burning on the metal underneath the acrylic. More info is available in the detail and posts on this video.

[@nooneshero9819]

Great video thank you for sharing. How was the acrylic cut?

[@michaelhinton]

I cut the acrylic mechanically using my miter saw and band saw. Used my jointer to smooth edges and then buffed them on a wheel for a clear finish. Sharp blades reduce heat. You need to be careful of heat as it will create small fractures in the acrylic so I shy away from belt or disk sanders. You can use a file or hand sand to smooth as well.

[@nooneshero9819]

@@michaelhinton thank you. Keep up the great work. Came out awesome

[@queosodaniel]

what is the price for each one?

[@michaelhinton]

I do not sell my products. Thank you for watching!

[@Dancopymus]

Hello Michael, I found your work very nice; I have 2 questions: 1) How powerful is the laser you use to burn into the steel plate and etch into the acrylic? I have the Sculpfun S6 Pro with 5.5 Watts of optical output. 2) Is the gray spray primer water based? (can it be in black color?) Thank you

[@michaelhinton]

Thank you for watching. The laser I use is the 10W version of xTool. I do not run it at full power so your laser may work fine but you will have to experiment. Be careful to not run it to slow as excessive heat can show minor fractures in the acrylic. The primer I use on the steel plate is not water based and I have not tried. Black primer or paint may work but again I have not tried nor experimented. I did try the method of using black heavy stock paper under the acrylic but I did not feel the results were as good as I was able to achieve with the gray primer and the steel. I was able to achieve the desired results with the gray primer and steel and as a result I did not feel the need for further experimentation. There is a fair amount of content on KZbin on different methods to etch the acrylic as well. I hope that helps and good luck!

[@Dancopymus]

@@michaelhinton Thank a lots

[@ahmednetworker3439]

Please can you give me the name of the deity to import from Ali Express website

[@michaelhinton]

Please forgive me but I am not certain I understand the question.

[@ahmednetworker3439]

I want the name of this machine. I want to search for it on Ali Express. I want to buy it

[@ahmednetworker3439]

What is the price I want to buy

[@michaelhinton]

Sorry I do not sell.

[@michaelhinton]

The machine is called xTool D1

[@cloesanders4567]

Where you get you measuring that your using

[@michaelhinton]

Which measuring device are you referring to?

[@pacoesquivel43]

How much power and speed ?

[@michaelhinton]

Power = 36% and Speed = 80 mm/s for 10W laser

[@sherrybernal4376]

Great video and beautiful pieces! Are you able to etch on the clear acrylic because of the grey color underneath it? I was told the blue laser could not etch clear acrylic.

[@michaelhinton]

In the case of clear acrylic the diode laser will pass through the material because of the wave length of the laser. There are two methods I have seen used to etch acrylic. One is using a coating on the top or bottom surface of the acrylic and etching by burning the coating directly applied to the substrate. I did not care for the idea of applying any coating directly to the acrylic and having to remove it. Also I like the effect of the etching on the bottom/back side of the acrylic as it looks much better in the finished product. As a result, I use a piece of steel sheet metal that I paint with gray spray primer (can be reused over and over just sand and re-primer) and place the acrylic directly on it. The laser passes through the acrylic and burns the primer on the steel which then etches the acrylic. Some keys to my success: • Proper Image Prep - For basic monochrome images, like logos or single-color pictures not much needs to be done and the basic software can handle it. Complex images like photos need good processing to create quality raster files. I use an online tool imag-r.com to process my images (output material = Norton Acrylic). Note the output is an inverse black and white of the original and will look to have poor quality on your computer screen but it is exactly what the laser likes for acrylic. The image will also be a mirror of the original and I just use the basic software to flip it back as I etch the underside of the material not the top surface and do not need it mirrored. • Less is More - The space between the pixels of the image actually make them look better. So, I will adjust the “lines per CM” down. In many of the photos I adjust down to 50 lines per CM and have better clarity of faces and detail in the etching. You will need to experiment to get the best result. • Laser Focus - Focus the laser to the sheet metal not the top acrylic surface. You are lasering the primed metal and the heat from the process is what etches the acrylic. • Machine Settings (10W xTool D1) - For my shop and machine I use Power = 36% and Speed = 80 mm/s. Hope this helps!

[@michaelhinton]

One last comment the residue, from the burnt primer ,I clean with a soft cloth and isopropyl alcohol. Patience and circular motion will remove and not scratch the acrylic.

[@OvertheHorizonMoonHowler]

@@michaelhinton this is great info! I got sad when I was told I could etch with my D1. Can’t wait to get home and try this. 🤝

[@brightsides6581]

Can xtool d1 engrave clear acrylic?

[@michaelhinton]

It is burning the gray primer that is on the sheet metal under the acrylic that marks the clear acrylic to produce the image.

[@brightsides6581]

Is that co2 lasser engraver

[@michaelhinton]

No it is a blue diode laser xTool D1 - 10W

[@SKS-dc2ic]

What is the thickness of the clear acrylic do you use?

[@michaelhinton]

I am using 7mm or 0.25”. What ever I can find at the store. The thicker material gives a much nicer look. Thanks for watching!

[@SKS-dc2ic]

@@michaelhinton is the any different for the setting if using thinner or thicker acrylic?. Thanks

[@michaelhinton]

Should not be any difference as the laser passes thru the material and burns the primer on the metal plate which etches the acrylic. You just need to make sure the focus is to the metal plate not the acrylic. The guard may cause you to be slightly high on the focus but mine cleared the 7 mm acrylic but a tight squeeze. So the finished image is really on the back side of the acrylic. Hope that helps!

[@bobreichel]

Anyone do an stl 3d file on plexiglass?

[@michaelhinton]

I have not tried to work with a 3d file. Lasers such as mine have a fixed focus but I believe that high end lasers have the ability to change focus length and therefore could work in 3 dimensions on thicker materials. Sounds cool but again I do not have any experience in that area.

[@deansiebert6237]

Where do you get the lights from?

[@michaelhinton]

Amazon. Components are 12 volt Lights: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075LB9HK2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Power Supply: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FEOB4EI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Adapters: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GPQZ4EE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Switches: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08R5PLDBP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[@georgeblank2648]

Would have been nice to actually know something about it

[@michaelhinton]

Thank you for your criticism and watching the video. I am sorry it did not meet your expectations, but the intent of the video was entertainment for family and friends and maybe even inspiration on what can be done with the tool. I was not looking to make an educational video as there are many of those that already exist. I have placed a fair amount of detail in the description and if you have specific questions I am more than willing to answer them. Again thank you for watching.

[@aleksanderwade6835]

Are they already dead?))))

[@michaelhinton]

Who?

[@andyb7754]

"I like the video but you should have described what was going on. In other words, shut off the loud music and explain the process."

[@michaelhinton]

Thank you for the comment. Honestly the video was pulled together to entertain family and friends and not necessarily intended to be educational. If there is enough interest I may look into doing something educational.

[@paulcritchley464]

Awful music, sorry to say that other wise good video

[@michaelhinton]

Thank you for watching.