Lathe Cross Feed Screw: Cutting Left Hand Modified Square Threads

[@pauayelo3024]

I'm learning farore with the videos this man puts his free time and effort in making than with the professors that are payed to teach me in college . Thanks a million Keith .

[@richardsurber8226]

Well there you Go. Nice job Mike and Keith. I was thinking I would not see anything unusual but , once again, you guys find something interesting. Thanks for the good work Keith

[@craigroedema6361]

Hi Keith, Craig from Iowa. I am a retired Journeyman Machinist like your self and have 40+ years of machining in and I myself never heard of that thread either. Job well done and like the show. Take care.

[@thomasgrimes922]

Excellent presentation of the machining required to finish this project. You are an awesome toolmaker and millwright. Many thanks for sharing your talents with us. How you figure out how the manufacturer built machines without any plans is truly amazing. I don't know how you do so many jobs alone in your shop.

[@jaswmclark]

I have worked on and off as a machinist for 60 years. Nice to see you young fellows passing on the knowledge of the trade. Early in my career I was told there are a thousand ways to do a job but only three that matter. The right way, the wrong way, and the way you end up doing it.

[@capitanschetttino8745]

I watched the entire series of videos and I have to say it was a job a hell of a job. It was only possible thanks to the love you have for work. Congratulations!

[@RyanWeishalla]

It is nice that you have lots of machinist friends. And we got to see Mike running a machine. A nice looking new replacement part for lathe.

[@markreardon3472]

Operated a 20" swing Kingston at the last shop I worked at for 16 years. They are good machines and they still have parts for them. Also had a DSG 13x40, Kuraki 32x120x 12" hollow spindle and a Summit 32x120x 10" hollow spindle cnc and many other machines. Thanks for the post.

[@keithpattison6763]

Hello Keith, I remember cutting an Acme thread, 3/4", for a vice screw, whilst at trade school, about 1965. We didn't use a travelling steady and most of us ended up with the tool digging in on the final cuts, destroying the screw. I have since made a 7/16" L/H Acme thread x 10 tpi, on my Hercus lathe, at home, out of tool steel and made a tap from it. This was used to tap out a new cross slide nut, that I cast out of bronze. Worked well and in the lathe. This is from Australia.

[@johnspencer6270]

Made the screw for a toolmakers vice as an apprentice. 3/4" OD 8 tpi square thread. First had to make the internal and external threading tools. External tool ground up on the surface grinder using a universal vice to set the side clearance angles. The nut was made from bronze, the internal threading tool from O1 tool steel oil hardened and tempered in the shop. Still have vice, which is in pretty much daily use 45 years later, and the threading tools though I have never used them since!

[@charlescompton4495]

Hey Keith, that was great and good to see you and Mike working together on this project. Puts me in mind of a crew of bricklayers working on a project. Together we can is a real statement for sure, Greg.

[@raincoast2396]

A project that gives the old expression "can of worms" new meaning, what an adventure! Seen through to the end. Almost at the 100K mark in subs Keith and your silver play button award. The journey continues. Cheers.

[@vicmiller7191]

Nicely done, that follower is something I have not seen before. I like the extra support it gives. Thanks for sharing...Vic

[@marcosherculano5944]

Great job, I'm a engineer and learning a lot with your videos. may our great God bless you.

[@tdkrei]

Hello Keith. I am a recent subscriber to your channel mainly because everything you are doing and with =all he machines it brings back fond memorizes to me. I started as a machinist in 1962 and became a journeyman in 1964. The company I worked for built hoist, dereks and whirley's up to 750 ton. I manual machined for over 3 years and the last 20 was a CNC turning and milling center machinist and a CAD technician. You've got nothing in your machining arsenal I haven't excelled at or just set up and ran. Keep up the good work and if you would want any input from me, just ask however you'll probably know everything I would tell you. Keep on smiling and thanks for sharing.

[@campbellmorrison8540]

Woo Hoo absolutely love the surgical lamp, Im getting older and I need light, heaps of it and that is a brilliant way to do it. I want one :)

[@reedfelton762]

Excellent work! Loved the collaboration with you and Mike. I just acquired a Rockwell 12-14 table saw that has interchangeable saw arbors for different diameter blades and as well as dado sets and moulding cutters. I need to make a new arbor for a dado set and believe it uses the 10 degree modified square thread. Learned alot from watching. Thanks and cheers!

[@gilbertodiaz-castro626]

That partially drilled channel for the pin is made by putting a plug in the hole that is press-fit, you center punch the precise line where the parts meet and drill like any other piece of material. The fact that it is press-fit removes any possibility of the drill bit catching and breaking. An easy fix for those of us without a machine that can cut the key slot.

[@CornishMiner]

Well done. Enjoyed that project. Lots to learn about threads, grinding cutters etc. Best wishes.

[@richardgalli7262]

I have cut acme, square and 60 degree but it would have been nice to see the shaping of the cutting tool and compound angle setup.

[@jankjensen222]

Again a great video from you. I love to see you and Mike together, two of my favorite youtube creators. All the best from Denmark!

[@shawnmrfixitlee6478]

Fine team work Keith ! Mike is a great guy . Enjoyed Thanks , Thumbs up !!

[@halnywiatr]

Broach off-camera? NOooo! We've watched this project from the beginning. It's like reading over a thousand pages of Gone with the Wind and instead of the ending having a note from Margaret Mitchell saying "and then Rhett leaves... yada, yada, ... The End."

[@melgross]

So this is for a subscriber, to help him out. Now I wonder if this was something Keith is charging for, or is a favor, because he could make videos out of it. I used to make machinery and parts for various companies. I could charge well over $100 for some really odd screw, because of the time involved. But that was for companies that needed to get an old machine running, where my charge didn’t really mean anything. When I make things for friends, I never charge anything, unless material costs are enough to charge for that. But what would this job cost, considering it’s for someone who likely isn’t making any money on his machine? In theory, the cost should be the same as for a commercial customer-but in reality… By the way, almost all old machines used that drilled pin method to secure the handle. The reason is simple. They could screw the handle on to where the tightness and therefor the play, was exactly where they wanted it, then drill the hole for the pin to keep it there, then screw the nut on. When putting a keyway in, they are usually all put in the same place on the shaft and handle, so there’s no way to fit it for best tolerance. So you need a much better machining accuracy, which was much more difficult to do back then. This method was used by many manufacturers well into the 20th century.

[@gipsymoth2]

Keith, you are the best. Thank you for all the great videos.

[@martineastburn3679]

On the key - I believe they drilled the slot in the handle first. Then the through hole that overlapped. Creative time saver.

[@terminalpsychosis8022]

Nice collaboration there. Interesting change of pace.

[@dananelson3534]

Thanks for sharing Keith. Sure Jorge will be glad to get it back.

[@tobyw9573]

Looks like those pin- keys in the shaft and I believe, the handle are made to tighten against the handle nut preventing the nut from tightening the end play on the shaft. Kinda hard to tell without the parts in hand, though. :) The woodruff key setup should allow you to tighten the nut 'till the shaft will not turn. You may need a jam nut setup on the handle to set the end play.

[@jonka1]

Don't think so. The handle will tighten up to the shoulder on the shaft as seen @ 21:58

[@tobyw9573]

jonka1 , I cannot tell where the handle hits, and the spacer with the set screw extends past the shoulder with a recess for the curved center ball of the crank. If I designed it, I would make the endplay on the crank adjustable. Could be that the designer of the machine did not. I do not think the setscrew is sufficient to set endplay on the crank.

[@NuclearHedgehog]

Nice to see some follow rest work.

[@paulteirney3587]

Good to see you got it done ,nice job .

[@skoue4165]

Really interesting way to key a handle. My guess is they drilled the key "hole" in the handle and then drilled out the center. Pretty quick and easy and requires no special tools. And it's a hand wheel so a not high stress or critical key.

[@jimzivny1554]

Great project, quite a learning experience.

[@FastEddie007007]

Sometimes the best tool you can have is a good friend. I was wondering how well that nylon was going to hold up to the chips and threads. Looks like it did just fine. That was a hard job that looked easy. Another job well done.

[@juniorsachinelli363]

Excelente trabalho Sr keith rucker.

[@EricTams]

Hi Keith, I like the new thumbnails but you may want to rethink the red color along the bottom. That is the area which KZbin uses to mark how much of a video you have viewed. People may think they have watched one of your videos already if they are used to using this as a way to track what they have already seen.

[@GruntW0rk]

Wow you are so right. I did not recognize the channel name but i had watched all the videos. Turns out it was the thumbnail just like you said.

[@bobvines00]

Keith, I definitely agree with Eric. Your www.vintagemachinery.org banner is the same color red as what KZbin uses to show whether or not viewers have watched a video or how far they've watched at that point. Please consider changing the color or shade of red of your banner.

[@christophersimpson7052]

I agree I have done this in the past too 👍🏻

[@ricdenali4213]

Awesome job! Wear whatever you wanta wear.

[@juanrivero8]

Ahem, I seem to remember a video of yours where you used the A&S lathe with a follow rest for threading. Sure enough, YT called such a video to my attention. Could be you could have gone out to the museum! Never mind, fun video to watch. You don't need a follow rest every day, but when you need it nothing else will do.

[@CVD-di1xn]

Job well done. I really enjoyed it. Keith, keep up the good work. Dave, Hamburg, NY.

[@jacka.4774]

thanks for the video. I notice something many would not. I like that adec light in the back. I have some of those on my machines and tables setup. If you could take that glare stop off of and leave the shield on, it would work much better for your kind of work. it will light up more area. I don't think that can be done with adec though.

[@k1mgy]

Keith, always interested in thread-cutting and fascinated by the precision (skill!) involved in starting the X-axis drive at the proper time to meet the thread. I've never seen this done in person. Someday! Two bits. First, interested to how you held that threaded shaft in the vise as you cut the woodruff keyway. The vise used was something I don't recall seeing in your videos prior. Thought it would be harmful to clamp the vise down on the threads. (?) Next, the broach cutter appeared to wobble a bit.. as if the cutter was slightly offset to the longitudinal axis of its shaft. Maybe an optical illusion, but imagined the precision you applied to the depth of cut might have been foiled by that offset.

[@ronalddavis]

I have seen a lot of videos of guys using woodruff key cutters and they all seem to wobble.Why I don't know but they seem to cut straight.

[@chadgdry3938]

As always, worth watching

[@Videowatcher2.0]

I really enjoy your videos. Keep up the video

[@johnwarkentinnikiskialaska8364]

Always enjoy watching your videos 👍

[@bcbloc02]

Great now you guys have made my single lathe feel lonely! lol

[@jolllyroger1]

Usually by the time I find and order pay for and go get a tool I could have made one and been done ..... it's what I have learned to do... make my own open end wrenches sometimes even spanners made lathes and lathe tools have an old hand drill turned into just another extra lathe with hand graver set up for knocking out quick low tolerance parts and have even done thread cutting on that with home made hand ground hand graver thread cutter...... there are so many ways to skin a cat it's crazy

[@fnordhorn]

Love the dentist Lamp in the background bet you that puts a lot of light in something when you need it

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

Nice job. Like all work something has to pop up to make things interesting. Keep up the good work.

[@minbannister3625]

I like to see a maths cheat sheet it helps me to understand (hobbyist) Problem solving and set up is what like to see best. Thanks.

[@GruntW0rk]

I said a few times that you could have done the job without the follower. Well I think it says a lot about you to know what is right and to do it even if it is an extra step. Subbed.

[@m.stallcup3173]

Awesome job

[@johnswimcat]

Hi Keith, nice job as usual. I was wondering about wear on the Teflon tips in the follow rest as the job went on - ? Particularly the tip opposite the tool

[@espedito2003]

Always a good job well done!

[@bentinman9350]

A wise man once told me "Some jobs only take five minutes, but, there is no such thing as a five minute job". Every five minute job I've started has always taken much, much, longer. Good luck. Regards MM

[@dizzolve]

love the teflon trick.

[@tobyw9573]

With the original setup you could file the pin-keys to set the end play.

[@gospelman7222]

Aha! mystery solved!. I was wondering what a follow rest was - here in the UK they're known as a travelling steady. Similarly, a steady rest is known as a fixed steady. No matter - good job, Keith!

[@petergregory5286]

Yes, divided by a common language! Now who said that? Bit of a relief to get that project over with, getting to be very expensive. Regards.

[@PeteBrubaker]

To be honest, those are way more descriptive terms for those attachments.

[@paulmanson253]

Peter Gregory Apparently it was Winston, but he may have been quoting. I watched a speech Lindberg made shortly after returning to the USA,he made a similar remark,phrased with grace and humour. No idea of who originated it.

[@EJP286CRSKW]

paul manson I believe it was George Bernard Shaw in Pygmalion, later to become My Fair Lady.

[@shaunrish9516]

Good job both of you

[@BMRStudio]

Very nice old masterpiece.

[@jimzivny1554]

I don't know if I've missed it in a previous video but the vise you used when cutting the key slot looks like a great tool. Any chance of showing it in a video?

[@JeffHeathTheVintageWorkshop]

Note to self- must have another lathe.😀 Nice job Keith and Mike. See you boys in September at Armrest.

[@danmetzger5583]

Another great vid Keith! Just to let you know, with the banner across the bottom I can no longer tell if I already watched that video or not. It was kind of handy....I will miss it.

[@mdlanor5414]

Mr. Rucker. As always another excellent video. The Vice you used to hold the screw and cut the Woodruff Key slot. This Vice is a great great addition for any Milling Machines that it will fit on. I watch many different KZbin Channel Creators that are Machinists. I don’t recall seeing a Vice like that. Is that a Production, Modified or Shop Made Vice?

[@jfbronco1]

Looks like you need to get the K16 and the 10ee completed and build yourself some follower rests. While your at it , I will take one of each also. lol thanks for your great videos.

[@leonadeau2849]

Keith I watched a video on gear cutting and I have probably 100 involute cutters some are for bevel gears some are for chain some are for any about any kind of gear you can think of. After 50 some years I am going to have to quit and if you would want some you can have them.Some of them are carbon steel some are high speed steel some need sharpened some have been sharpened. Let me know Leo Nadeau

[@kennethdahl4791]

Keith, It seems that this is the way things work for me also on projects. I get almost done and find that I lack some tool before I can complete it.

[@CatNolara]

For my homemade CNC router I had modified nuts for trapezoidal threads (metric pendant to ACME threads) so that they have slits on one side, which I can tighten with a screw to get every bit of backlash out. The spindles are a bit tight then, though, but the stepper motors can handle it. What do you think, is this a valid method of making adjustable nuts or are there any problems I didn't think of, yet? Oh, by the way, the nuts are made of delrin.

[@aserta]

Be aware that you're going to burn your steppers (by burn read cut their life short). Think of it like a zipper. One trick to repair a loose zipper is to tighten the shoe on the puller. But if you tighten it too much, it simply wears faster. You need that perfect 50/50 mix between no backlash and no friction. One way to get round that is to get some teflon paste and lightly dab the thread with it.

[@siggyincr7447]

Most of the time you'll find that by the time you need to adjust the nut the ends of the screw end up larger in diameter than the part engaged during normal use due to normal wear. And when you adjust the nut it will either bind at the ends or remain loose in the middle. I knew a CNC machinist who would start the day by letting the machines traverse the entire range of the axis for a half an hour to balance the wear on the screws so that he could adjust the ball screws without binding problems. On a CNC machine that's a viable option on a manual one not so much. Being that the nuts are made of plastic the wear on the screws might not be much of an issue though.

[@jamesconner8275]

I just love how machinists use any and every excuse to have more machinery.

[@DavoShed]

We used to call those travelling steady as a posed to a fixed steady.

[@clham612]

First thing I thought when you mentioned that you didn't have the right bushing to broach the slot was "USE YOUR SHAPER!" But then perhaps you don't have a small enough cutter to get in that 7/16" hole. But the shaper is a really good alternative when you don't have the right broaching tools.

[@SteveSummers]

I thought the same thing, I have a big 24" Cincinnati metal shaper that I run on my channel, I'm new to KZbin but have a video up on cutting keyways in a forge blower shaft. Check it out if you get a chance, I don't claim to be a pro, more just sharing what I am doing.

[@BruceBusby]

Perhaps they drilled the keyed blind hole before the bigger through hole?

[@SteveSummers]

Thanks Keith, nice video. I run a big 24" Cincinnati metal shaper alot on my channel and love the shapers, I wish you would have put that handle on the shaper and cut that key. But I understand how much easier it is to broach it. Just would have liked to see you do it that's all. Keep up the good work and stop by my channel if you get the time, Keep in mind that I am new to the video world :)

[@fengelman]

did the camera actually pick-up deflection as you started to cut the keyway?

[@jacobbotden5641]

OOOOOOh Follow Rest, I was so confused why you would need a "Fall Arrest" with a small lathe mounted to the ground.

[@duobob]

No provision for taking out the backlash in the lead screw nut?

[@multiHappyHacker]

I read on the Pratt & Whitney brochure the follow rest for (I think) the Model C 16"x54" slipped over the dovetail and had a gib of some sort to lock it down. But a different piece of P&W literature shows a style that bolts onto each side of the saddle. Sadly I don't know which to try to find/make for it, and I'm pretty sure the big beefy steady rest that came with it was made for the 12" model. What do you guys do with all the bits and pieces that don't fit? Oh I also have a follow rest for who knows what lathe.

[@kenedwards7013]

I have a 16"×54"Pratt & Whitney lathe. How can I get a half nut for making threads? Love your show.

[@BedsitBob]

I'm guessing they drilled the round key-way, before they bored the handle. BTW. Isn't a modified square thread, a bit of a misnomer?

[@bigtrev8xl]

Great work

[@outsidescrewball]

Enjoyed,.....great info/tips

[@TheducksOrg]

How does the cutting head follow the thread? Is it a specialised thread cutting setting where it always goes in at the same rotational index?

[@craigleemehan]

theducks.org en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw-cutting_lathe

[@danielbrown7231]

Yes the carriage is driven by a lead screw that is geared to the spindle of the lathe.

[@tb14236]

Story of my life, every project there is that one thing I need. Even if it is as common as a simple bolt, I just used the last one I had in stock on the last project and hadn't had a chance to restock it yet.

[@aforman1951]

I look for 30 mins, knowing I have it. Can't find it. Buy more. Then I see the ones I already have right in front of me ...

[@tb14236]

Been there done that, sometimes I end up finding multiples because I've done it before. The older I get the more I do it sad to say.

[@markmossinghoff8185]

Tom Baker when your family cleans out your shop they're going to say "Why the hell did he buy so many of these things? " It's gonna happen at my house too.

[@byronwatkins2565]

If you are making the nut and screw both, why not make them ACME?

[@williamdavis4268]

Good job, I might need to cut some left hand threads sometime but not in that thread, like I said good job

[@Peter_Riis_DK]

What happened during the scratch pass? At about 6:15 and then later there's no cutting on one side of the rod.

[@vajake1]

I saw that and wondered about that too. I think that the part must have been bent!

[@DenHvideHund]

Probably too little pressure on the follower-rest. This could also explain why the nut felt a bit tight in the middle as this is where there will be most flex when cutting aka cutting depth was a bit shallow there. But it turned out great at the end :)

[@vajake1]

The cut looked light only on one side, in one short section to me. I could be wrong.

[@DenHvideHund]

ya you are right. Perhaps it was clamped to hard against the tailstock

[@jeffanderson1653]

Gosh, at .002” per pass, how long did it take to cut the threads? Nice work

[@ExtantFrodo2]

15:48 "I'm not sure exactly how they drilled that"... Fill the main hole with a temporary plug so that the drill can stay on course. Drill the hole. Remove the plug. Easy peazy.

[@MoraFermi]

Even simpler: drill small hole first, drill big hole second.

[@ExtantFrodo2]

Might you not then run the risk of gouging the smaller hole as the large drill finds some latitude in that direction. It obviously wouldn't matter much in this use case if the larger hole was off center, having your keyway tight might be a priority.

[@siggyincr7447]

If the smaller hole is on the exit side it wouldn't make a significant difference.

[@ExtantFrodo2]

Good point Sieg. *" it can be easily cut with a 1/8" end mill."* Yup, many ways to skin this cat. :-) However IDK if you've ever seen the damage that can be caused by using a round keyway as it or the key wears over time allowing the shaft to spin. Don't ever use this for anything that gets driven by lots of power or high speeds. I'll try to find a link to a video I saw that showed this.

[@2024bear]

what degree cutter are you using?

[@experiencingtechnicaldiffi5184]

You didn't mention the "H" factor when cutting a keyway. I know that depth of keyway is from full width but when you are making parts to someones specs it has to be able to pass inspection not just work. Years ago I got tired of having to calculate it every time I needed to cut a keyway so I made a chart with every size of shaft and key and pasted it into my tool box lid. Odd sizes like .2905 shaft with a .048 key can be guesstimated from the chart. Much faster and less frustrating, great taste and less filling. That keyway in the handle was made by putting a plug in the bore and drilling between the two much like when making a Johnson key. I don't know why they did it that way, it doesn't seem like it would be very stable with so little contact. I would have just broached it in the lathe rather than wait for a tool to finish an already late rush job. In an hour it would be done including grinding a tool and making a backing plate. But considering I don't have broaches that's the way I always do it. Mike (o\!/o)

[@philbressi7223]

Thanks for a great video always enjoy your way of explaining what you are doing. In the previous video you used a tape follower that looked great, can you tell me where that came from, thanks again and keep up the great work.

[@jeffmoss26]

awesome stuff as always!

[@dalebennett5227]

wish i had a nice lathe like that, 10EE. i know the mori seki lathe are really good

[@waynepetry1011]

Looking for help on a Clausing Colchester 15-50 1978 model 8033. Need parts.

[@mnoxman]

Don't you have a shaper in your shed? Ir is that Tom? That would seem to be a easy way to fix the key way issue.

[@Bruno2204]

Great work... 👍😃

[@kevCarrico]

great work!!

[@Mekratrig]

When cutting threads, how can the operator start each pass in the same groove?

[@mikemadsen2716]

I am going to add a few details to the machine I am building as a result of this video.

[@crustyolcoot6646]

Thank god for the metric system. Vive Le France I reckon.

[@dunc5798]

Hey guys: What's with the dental operating light behind the Kingston?

[@paulcopeland9035]

What's with it? I'll tell you - that is the perfect work light. Mike said a friend gave him 3 or 4 of them. Very nice gift. Those are LED and will move and focus where ever you need light. Great shop tool!

[@davidsample9130]

The small hole was drilled first for the key, larger hole next.