Lathe Taper Attachment

I created this video with the KZbin Video Editor ( / editor )

[@BROCKWOOD64]

Kudos from another power company worker (20 yrs in Stations, P&C & System Ops). Like you, my machining is a hobby & also like you, I am a student of all the great UTube Professors, as I call them. You simultaneously solved an approach issue I had to a part I need to make & given me ideas for other tools to make! If it Ain't Grounded, It Ain't Dead.

[@buddylineman]

Hello BROCKWOOD64, I'm on my 30 year now and been the GLF. for 2 years . It's a great place to work. I still enjoy working in my shop, it keeps me busy. Thanks for the comment. And most definitely, Ground it, Ground it, Ground it!

[@danielmarshall7081]

Wow man,,,i am a 6th generation tool maker!! My forefathers were tool makers for a living.I have been hobby shop type machining for 40 years. I want to thank you for sharing and encourage you for the absolutely brilliant idea!!! YOU see i went way out of my way and fabricated a V block type taper attachment for my Clawsing lathe,,It works very well for making Tapers on blank gun barrels,,,,,,,,I am quite sure that your idea is so,so,so simple and just as effective,,,,,Thanks Dans Guns!

[@buddylineman]

Hello Daniel, Super nice comment. Thank you. My hope is that others will be able to use this idea to help them. I would like to see the V Block type taper attachment, I'll have to look that up. Thank you, Buddy

[@Abom79]

Great video Buddy!! Thanks for the little 4 jaw plug. I think that's a pretty slick setup. In fact I recall Tom Lipton mentioning wanting to try that in his book Metalworking Doing it Better. I like your explanations and enjoyable to watch. Id like to see more video from you. Thanks for sharing. Adam

[@buddylineman]

+Abom79 Thanks Adam, I would like to get Tom's book and check it out. When I get my new machine up and running I'll make a video on it. It will be interesting to see what all I can do with it. Have a good one, and thanks for the comment. Buddy

[@Waffenschmiedinx]

just because your not a "machinist" doesn't mean you cant come up with an amazing idea don't sell yourself short :) awesome idea and great video

[@buddylineman]

Thanks, I like to try and come up with different ways of doing things, it's fun and keeps the old brain working. Thank you, Buddy

[@Waffenschmiedinx]

+Buddy Lineman the thinking people make the world go round ;)

[@buddylineman]

Thanks

[@jimmilne19]

Very interesting technique to get extra side travel from the tail stock. Quite smart actually. Thank you for sharing and know that your video is pleasant, informative and well made. Thanks for sharing.

[@buddylineman]

+Jim Milne Hey Jim, Thanks for the comments, It works really well and it doesn't cost a lot to do. Thanks Buddy

[@egancraneriggingservicesin9142]

Good idea, I am like you but a crane operator for 38 years love messing with the machine tools, helps me relax

[@buddylineman]

Hello E, I too enjoy these old and some new machines, it keeps my brain working and that's a good thing for this old brain. Thanks, Buddy

[@eddesroches6833]

I'm not a machinist either. I would like to create a taper on a motor shaft for a end mill sharpener (doesn't everyone try to build an end mill sharpener ?). I found your youtube very enjoyable and very pleasant to listen to. Lot of creativity and invention in your use of a boring head for a taper attachment..I just bought an boring head same size ...and from the same company. Thanks for making this video.

[@buddylineman]

Thanks for the comment, I hope it works as good for you as it has for me. Thank you, Buddy

[@alfgit8784]

Thank you sir! After 8 years with my lathe, I now have a need to cut a long taper for the first time. I found your video just in time to save a large and unnecessary expense. I have the same boring head that I bought for my mill but have barely ever used, so now it will finally earn its keep. I should have thought of this technique myself, but I didn't. I am indebted to you.

[@buddylineman]

Hello Alf, I'm glad that someone will be able to use this set up. I just took light passes, about 20 thousands at a time and it worked great for me. I could have used my follow rest and made deep cuts but i'm not in any big hurry. Hope it works good for you. Thanks Buddy

[@djberg3483]

awesome! keep the gears in your head turning, they come up with great adaptations.

[@buddylineman]

Hey dj, thanks for the comment, I'll try and keep the old gears turning. Thanks Buddy

[@Magdumpofficial]

I've gotta say brother, this was a great idea and I'm gonna be starting in mine tomorrow, thank you for saving me a PILE Of money on buying a new taper attachment for my Logan 6565 don't get me wrong I love that Scott still supports the machines his daddy built with new parts, but that thing is outrageous and for the little bit I do with tapers this is perfect!!

[@buddylineman]

Hey Jeremy, Thanks for the comment, I hope it works as good for you as mine does for me. I hope you will post a video on it and any changes you do to make it work better. Also I started using a 3/4 pin out of the side of the boring head and an indicator to check to see if it is (true), it is a lot easyer than using a level. Good luck. Thanks Buddy

[@turningpoint6643]

Given that an "exactly" level lathe isn't important and having one without twist in the ways is, then that pin out the side would work fine on lathes that aren't for various reasons 100% level. I've got an offsettable center I bought from Arrand in the UK when they were still in business. It has a parallel top section that I just indicate to get the slide on the tool square to the ways. For most items your idea would be all most would need. The proper taper attachments do allow some types of longer tapered bores and especially tapered internal threads that couldn't be done between centers. There's always more than one way to get the job done. You might find that buying what are called Toolmaker Balls and using what are called bell center drills will work even better since the drills leave a radius on the hole and the toolmaker balls have a straight parallel shaft behind the hardened ball. That way the shaft that's held between centers is much better supported. If you draw a greatly enlarged version on paper of the normal V shaped 60 degree center hole and the usual 60 V angle on the centers with the work off set you should immediately see what I mean.

[@ellieprice3396]

Buddy, thanks for a very good idea and setup. I've spent my life as a machinist but never seen this done until now. My boring head has an R-8 shank and uses .500 boring bars. If I can remove the shank and replace it with MT-3 I'd like to try this trick. Here's an idea for further refinement. Put a hardened ball in your tailstock center and a cup point in the boring head. A greased ball rotating inside the two cups should give you a smoother cut especially on steep tapers. Maybe even try a ball and cup on both ends as a trial.

[@buddylineman]

Thank you, I'll try that. Buddy

[@perceive8159]

I'm not sure if this was stated:There is a type R (DIN 333-R) center drill which is well suited for turning tapers on a lathe (bell mouthed) that has a radius instead of a chamfer. This forms a center hole that results in more holding accuracy because there is contact only at a single point which allows proper off center contact in the bore but the load bearing capacity of the hole (ability to withstand lateral forces resulting from cutting) would be less. Not to many novice machinist's realize this important point (a pun) when turning tapers.

[@markoreilly3414]

I've used Ball Bearings in Centre drilled holes, both ends, as Centres.

[@lookcreations]

Nicely done Buddy. I agree once yo get the tail stock alignment set you really dont want to go off setting it ! Im looking to make up some machine tapers - and this provides one option. What I want to do is have a 'fixed' offset pre-set so I can take it out set up quick and easy. Morse Taper and Iso 40, 30 etc. Might have to make up setting blocks for the offset ? Thanks for uploading. All the best Mat

[@buddylineman]

Sounds like a plan. Hope it works good for you. Thanks Buddy

[@P40BTomahawk]

Mr. Lineman, Thank you for posting this I learned something today.

[@buddylineman]

Hello Trim Tab, you are welcome. I like youtube because a lot of people put things on there that I can learn from. Thanks Buddy

[@Mpm-bu4gy]

Saludos fraterno desde Perú 🇵🇪 Dios te bendiga mucho

[@buddylineman]

Thank you, and God bless you too. Buddy

[@joebruey]

I agree with all the others . . . great idea and great outcome.

[@buddylineman]

Thanks, Joe.

[@kickinthegob]

That's a slick idea Buddy. Thanks for posting the video. I will be trying this myself.

[@buddylineman]

Hey kickinthegob, I hope it works good for you. Thanks Buddy

[@michaelm2716]

Hi Buddy sometimes a different perspective is all that is needed to find an easy fix for a short term problem. As you said tooling is expensive so it makes sense to utilise what we have got especially for a one off job. I have just subscribed thanks Mick

[@buddylineman]

Hello Aussie Mick, Thank you for the comment. I have had a few people say they are going to make one for their lathe. So if it helps others, then it makes me feel good that I can pass it along. Thanks you, Buddy

[@Captainwonderlad]

What a cool way to make mid century modern tapered legs. I learned from this video.

[@buddylineman]

Thank you.

[@ianmacpherson2409]

Hey you have made a tool that I am in need of, and I will purchase. My Lady friends are hounding me to make a ring sizer. Next I will do the math LOL. Great video

[@WRFUSINAGENS]

Achei genial esta maneira de usar este cabeçote broqueador, parabéns.

[@buddylineman]

Thank you Buddy

[@jeffryblackmon4846]

Very clever setup! Thanks for displaying it.

[@buddylineman]

Hey Jeffry, Thanks for the comment, I hope it makes someone work a little easier. Thanks Buddy

[@jamespayne8781]

Hmmm. I think I’m going to try this. I need to reproduce an old Brown and Sharp taper for an old milling machine arbor.

[@buddylineman]

Hope it works for you.

[@kentuckytrapper780]

Well I learned something from you. Great info thanks.

[@buddylineman]

You are welcome

[@pieterbotes8938]

Nice idea. Much easier than off setting tail stock!

[@dougberrett8094]

Good idea, but why the 4 jaw chuck? I have a short piece of drill rod I use when I cut between centers. I put it in and dress the 60° center each time. Not as time consuming as getting the 4 jaw dialed in, plus it is now exactly in line with the spindle.

[@buddylineman]

Hello Doug, I agree with that. What I was using the 4 jaw chuck for was to make sure the live center was true to the insert piece that I had to make, that spins in the bearing. The one that came with it was about .0004th out. So when I made the new and check it, it was running true to the main body of the live center. When I turned the MT3 shaft to a straight 3/4" shaft I wanted to make sure it was running true. Thanks Buddy

[@dougberrett8094]

Buddy Lineman always a good idea to find out why someone else did what they did. That is how we expand our abilities.

[@bruceang82]

Very ingenious, smart !

[@buddylineman]

Thank you

[@RDALEHOUSTON]

great video see old dog like me can learn thing too ,,thanks

[@buddylineman]

Thanks for the comment, us old dogs got to keep on learning.

[@michaelj9210]

Like your video. May i make a suggestion. When you center your part to cut the taper, use a radius center drill. Instead of having a 60 deg. included angle, those surfaces will have a radius. Mc Master carr sells this type of drill. Your taper will be more concentric. I use that center a lot for precision grinding.

[@buddylineman]

Hello M, I will always take suggestions. I like learning new things and new ways of doing things, it makes life a whole lot funner.I may be missing something here, I do use a center drill bit on my part (both ends) then I use centers to hold the part. If I'm missing the point please let me know. Thanks Buddy

[@michaelj9210]

Buddy Lineman there are several center designs. the one with a radius minimizes contact with the machine's center.

[@buddylineman]

Sorry I'm still lost.

[@buddylineman]

Are you talking about these? Radius-Style Drill-Point Countersinks for Lathe Centers. I looked it up on Mc Master Carr

[@michaelj9210]

Yes that is it. i use a number 3 and a number 5. They work good for any misalignment such as cutting tapers. I also use them when I will need to grind a shaft later on.

[@axolpolly2673]

hello Buddy, i like the way you doing, in this case i don't need to adjust my tailstock.thanks a lot for video, and explanation.cheers

[@buddylineman]

+axol polly Hello Axol polly, Thanks for the comment, I have used it to make some ( drift pins ) and it works really good. Hope you have good luck with it also. Thanks Buddy

[@camojoe2]

Just found your channel Buddy. Good thinking there Bubba. Regards, Duck

[@buddylineman]

Thanks

[@buddylineman]

Please share your comments and ask any questions, and I will reply. Thank you, Buddy

[@tonypike5785]

Buddy Lineman thats great thanks, i too have Tree

[@BillyDocWalker]

I think you are more of a Machinist than a lot of people who carry the title Master Machinist .

[@buddylineman]

William, Thank you for the kind comment. Buddy

[@oppanheimer]

What an awesome idea. Thanks.

[@buddylineman]

Thank you

[@beachboardfan9544]

Why did that leave so much better of a surface finish when cutting from left to right?

[@buddylineman]

It didn't matter left or right thats just the way I went. The finish pass was at 1400 rpm and only removing a few thousands off. I find that most of the time higher rpm works better for me. I always try different speeds and feeds to see what is going to work best before I get to the finish pass. Hope that helps. Buddy

[@rodbutler9864]

Excellent

[@scottburrous2375]

Been thinking about that video you sent about tapering between centers. Only thing I'm wondering about is the dead center in the chuck. It's skewed in the center drilled hole. Don't know if that matters but I know it wouldn't matter if it was a ball/socket fitment. Actually, it's the same with the live center in the tailstock. In the live center, being off center unfairly loads one side up the thrust bearing and can (maybe) lead to an early death in a low quality center - especially since you're cutting toward the tailstock. Just my idle mind running off the rails in the background....

[@buddylineman]

Hey Scott, I think you are right. Another viewer said something about trying a ball bearing, and when you think about it, it makes since. When I cut that piece I only went 20 Thousands at a pass. I have never tried a ball/socket so I guess I'll have to make one and try it. The only thing I would be worried about is it flying out from the ball and knocking me out. Thanks Buddy

[@craigtate5930]

Nice setup! I would love to see a video on your mill... I was also JIW

[@buddylineman]

Thanks .

[@tinker453]

SPLENDID IDEA/VIDEO! I will use this in the future Thanx.

[@buddylineman]

Hey Tinker45, I hope it works good for you. Thanks, Buddy

[@davidnerge9792]

worked out nicely...a creative solution!

[@buddylineman]

Thank you for the comment

[@metalshopwithtroy5755]

Graet Video, look forward to your next Thank you

[@buddylineman]

Hey Troy, Thanks for the comment. I need to get some more videos up, but i have been working a lot, and not a lot of spare time right now. Thank you Buddy

[@hankpb1]

hi, if I wanted a taper of 8mm over 285mm , would I set the boring head off by 8mm ?...thanks

[@buddylineman]

Hello Phil, I would off set it 4mm. Try it on a piece of scrap first. If you know the large diameter, small diameter, and length of the taper then you can calculate the taper per foot. Hope this helps Thanks Buddy

[@rueberger4897]

What is the part you have on the headstock attached to the piece. I see another center but obviously that lets the piece pivot. Link to the tool?

[@buddylineman]

It is called a "Bent Tail Dog", it clamps on the work piece and it "rides" on one of the jaws from your chuck to turn the shaft. You would normally use them on a face plate, but will work on a "Jaw Chuck". I think that is what you are asking about. If not please let me know. Thank you, Buddy

[@vanguardcycle]

nice work!

[@buddylineman]

Thank you

[@fernandolopes6672]

PARABENS.... TOP, TOP TOP,... O SENHOR E UM GENIO... PARABENS, 100%

[@buddylineman]

I'm not sure what that means, but I hope it's good. Thank you, Buddy

[@johnnym1320]

That's a great idea!

[@buddylineman]

Thank you for the comment , my hope is that this video will help others out there in the youtube world. I know I have learned a lot from others putting their ideas and ways of doing things on video. Thanks

[@foomanchewthis]

This is very helpful for me. Thank you!

[@buddylineman]

Hey Gary S. I hope it works good for you. Thanks Buddy

[@scottgarloff1390]

brilliant Idea .

[@buddylineman]

Thanks

[@fernandolopes6672]

kkkkkkk PARABENS .... TOP, TOP TOP, ... THE LORD AND A GENIUS ... PARABENS, 100% abracos

[@buddylineman]

Thank you.

[@joshuaklingensmith7843]

Thanks for the video it's gonna help me out at home

[@buddylineman]

Hello Joshua, Thank you for your comment. I hope it works good for you. Thanks, Buddy

[@ugotit33x]

EXCELLENT

[@buddylineman]

Thank you.

[@2129078]

Great job buddy!

[@buddylineman]

Thank you

[@dennyskerb4992]

Good idea Buddy, I think I'll try it.

[@buddylineman]

Its been working good for me. Hope it works for you. Thanks Buddy

[@flashpointrecycling]

Wow, that is a great idea!

[@buddylineman]

Thanks

[@817charger]

great thought process! I love it, Thanks!

[@buddylineman]

Thank you.

[@buddylineman]

Thank you.

[@rlewis1946]

Just found your Channel. Great video. Thank you for sharing your idea and showing us how you made it work. Please make more videos. Subscribed! 👍👍 Best wishes from Buffalo, NY Roy 1946 Logan 825 SN: 34503

[@buddylineman]

Hey Roy Lewis, thank you for your comments, I enjoy trying to figure out how to do things to make something work, and sometime it works and sometime it doesn't, but we have to keep on trying. Thank Buddy.

[@mh1art870]

Awesome!!!! Great idea.

[@buddylineman]

Thank you Buddy

[@mikehart6708]

like your down to earth approach. What if and why not-----------INDEED!

[@buddylineman]

Thank you Mike.

[@OldIronShops]

hay that's a great idea . have a atlas lathe i just found parts to the original taper attachment ill probably have to make all the rest but that is the fun right . you can see what i am up to on my channle .

[@buddylineman]

That's right. I'll have to check out your video's.

[@OldIronShops]

thanks for the subscription

[@boallmon324]

Do you have a link where you got the boring head on ebay

[@buddylineman]

No I don't, sorry. Grizzly.com, Shars tooling, and places like that are a good start. Just start looking on ebay and I'm sure you can find one . Look luck. Thanks, Buddy

[@ggordon4127]

Smart idea.

[@buddylineman]

Thank you.

[@sickboymech92]

Did you level your lathe in accordance with the stand? Or did you level the lathe separately to ensure there is not twist in your bed?

[@buddylineman]

I had the lathe on a heavy wooden stand for a long time and I finally was able to save up and buy the stand that is made for it. I put it all together and put my machinist level on the ways and when I would try to adjust ( front left) it would move the whole left side or what ever side I was working on. So I used concrete anchoring in the floor and put a nut and washer down it to hold the anchor to the floor and then used a nut and washer below and above the foot on the stand. By doing that I was able to take out any twist in the bed and get it level. Hope that make since. Thank you, Buddy

[@sickboymech92]

That's one way, sounds like it was a pain in the ass.

[@force245]

Ingenuity

[@buddylineman]

Thank you.

[@trollforge]

Brilliant! My lathe is 123 years old so there is no "proper" tool for the job. Thanks!

[@buddylineman]

Hey TrollForge, 123 years old ,I would love to see a video of that Grand old girl working. Thanks, Buddy

[@trollforge]

It is a work in progress. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jJu1cqelds-Dl7c

[@karyncody3647]

how did you get a taper moving straight ok I see you used the head to off set

[@buddylineman]

Hey Karyn, I off set the boring head .2500th to get a 1/2 inch to 1 inch taper and I take light cuts (.020th). Thanks Buddy.

[@meocats]

can you turn a 1:10 taper or is that too steep and produces bad results?

[@buddylineman]

Hello meocats, I do not know, but I think if you took small cuts and took your time you would be ok. Thanks Buddy

[@flugschulerfluglehrer7139]

Very smart solution!

[@buddylineman]

Thank you

[@toodabutt70]

Good Idea, Thank's

[@toolguy6057]

Good idea!

[@buddylineman]

Thank you.

[@triariicat8448]

where can i get that attachment for offsetting the center?

[@buddylineman]

Hey Triarii Cat, you can get a boring head from Grizzly Tool, Shars Tool, Wholesale Tool, or just go on ebay and you will be able to find one. Thanks Buddy

[@robertburns2415]

I never thought about using chicken noodle soup as cutting oil, I always use tomato soup.

[@buddylineman]

Hey Robert, you got to try it, the fat in the chicken makes for great chips! Thanks for the great comment. Buddy

[@turningpoint6643]

Actually all of today's cutting oils (not coolants) are trying to replicate what the old school machinist's were using which were animal fats. Guy Lautord mentioned in one of his books about using pure baking lard as a lube while reaming. It works great on anything I reamed with it. The newer cutting oils are used simply to get away from the rancid animal fat problems along with attracting mice and bugs. And you do NOT want anything rancid getting into the usual small cuts and with the chips that get driven into you hands and fingers sometimes. So I keep my baking lard in the fridge and make sure to clean and wipe any tooling down after it's used.

[@elh3809]

cool,cool,cool

[@buddylineman]

Thanks

[@sethrivera4173]

Plus or minus .005 with that tape measure haha jk.... Good vid

[@buddylineman]

Thank you

[@Zakamooza]

no cutting fluid ?

[@buddylineman]

Hey Kakamooza, Sometimes I use cutting oil and sometimes not, I took small passes ( about 20 thousands ) at a time and it worked out good for me. Thanks Buddy

[@Zakamooza]

its zakamooza * ;) so when taking light passes , i dont need to use oil/cutting fluid ?

[@buddylineman]

I use cutting oil mostly when taking heavy cuts, you just need to try different things to see what works best for you. Thanks Buddy