Lathe VFD 6: How to Connect and Test the Controls

Today we're finally installing the electronics in the Hammond box, on the wall next to the lathe. We'll connect the control wiring and run the lathe with the VFD for the first time.
If you'd like to do this upgrade on your lathe, here are some of the parts and tools I used:
*This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated
Teco-Westinghouse L510 1HP VFD (Amazon*): amzn.to/2F2X7a8
Leeson 1800RPM D80 Motor: www.electricmot...
20A Power Line Noise Suppressor (Amazon*): amzn.to/2HAcaxs
Hammond 12x12x6 Box: www.wistexllc....

[@ToddBeal]

Thank you for this entire series. The detail at each step was no more/no less than required. This is class act. In my 49 years, I have not had the privilege of sitting at the feet of any instructor and reach session-end with no core gaps in knowledge, prior to now. You sir are gifted. Thank you for the balanced breadth, depth, and detail you present in this series. Not once did you drop the ball - perfectly executed!

[@defendermender4959]

Stumbled across this video series after looking for info on VFD to run a 2 post vehicle lift. This has to be one of the most excellent, informative video series i've seen on them, thank you for taking the time to make them. It was especially good as you explained a lot of the info that people are looking for on the supplementary controls and external switching can be used, that there's so little info out there on. Many thanks for taking the time again James it's very much appreciated!

[@htyvty9981]

Fantastic series, thanks for sharing the story of your grandpa

[@chrisatkins5931]

Got the gear and now the knowledge to convert my lathe. Love to have that low speed feed for threading up to a shoulder. Thanks for a brilliant series.

[@turningpoint6643]

One of the best how to series I've seen yet on KZbin about using the original switches as they were intended to control the same functions on the VFD Clough. That said even watching how you did it I'd feel a lot more comfortable with my inept electrical knowledge to pay a professional industrial electrician to do the same on my lathe. My Bridgeport clone was the first machine I've ever operated with a 3 ph VFD combination and it's amazing just how smooth and quiet they are. I very much suspect you'll see a decent improvement in the surface finishes you now get as well. Other than the extra cost I am a bit surprised you didn't upgrade the Chinese OEM switches to something a little more industrial rated since they seem to be a bit failure prone sometimes.

[@Clough42]

Interesting...I hadn't thought about surface finish. It'll be interesting to see if I can tell the difference. I'm already loving how smooth it is. I need to find another big lathe project so I can put it through its paces. I didn't mess with the switches because I was trying to not alter the control panel too much. I guess drilling a hole in it is a pretty big alteration. :) But I have some other stuff coming that may require more controls, and I haven't decided yet exactly how I want to do it.

[@turningpoint6643]

I'm quite sure you will see an improved surface finish Clough. However that much smoother power delivery starts showing up any other problems that might have been disguised by the OEM single ph motor. The cheap factory supplied drive belts might not be the best and possibly any gearing that maybe isn't as concentric as it should be can then start to show up in the surface finish. I had to change out my mills drive belt since I was seeing a very slight and repeating surface pattern with my mill while fly cutting after I got it. It's a lot of effort and I haven't done mine yet, but adding cast in access holes for any bolts and guarding the spindle bearings then filling both the headstock and tailstocks hollow castings with an epoxy / granite mix can show some definite improvements as well. The castings are a lot lighter than they should be on these lathes. My opinions and design preferences have been changed a great deal from drooling over too many top quality European built machine tools like the Deckel mills. To me the Swiss, German, Austrian designs seem to be more observant about ease of use for the operator than most others. The Deckel FP 2 and especially FP 3 uses a heavier built version of what most DRO head units use for a two arm pivioting mount and Deckel has all the machines controls mounted on a sloped face and almost always the dro mounted above that. The whole thing can be set for easy access yet out of the way of the current job no matter what size it is. Everything is positioned right at your finger tips. Harrison, Colchester, Clausing branded lathes today use a very well thought out addition to the lathes splash pan with all the controls mounted and centralized on an angled extension of that splash pan on the far left side. I'm seriously thinking of doing something much like it at some point. Years ago there was an article in the Model Engineer's Workshop magazine where the author mildly modified his Myford super 7 top slide to incorporate a Newall magnetic scale inside the top slide because of the space restraints like your looking at on your lathes cross slide. No idea if the DRO you bought has the small diameter magnetic scales available for it or not. Because of the usual layout of the carriage lock, cross slide locking screw and the gib adjustment bolts plus maybe losing a bit of room to get the tailstocks casting as close to the right hand side of the carriage as possible then coming up with a decent workable mount for the X axis scale is always a problem on these smaller lathes like we have. My Newall micro syn scales and reader heads on my mill are the smallest I've seen for any dro and it might be worth checking if your dro's head unit is compatible with there signal type? For something like the cross slide I'd want the extra resolution and accuracy those micro syn scales have anyway. If you need dimensions I can measure my scales and reader head.

[@jlang8213]

You sir, are amazing. Just watched all 6 videos (and I see you have an addendum, gonna watch that too). I have been thinking of getting a VFD for my old school Oliver wood lathe with a reeves drive but I have been as little intimidated. You did am excellent job explaining everything. There were times while watching that I didn't seem to understand, but like magic, you made sure to explain everything in detail.

[@aidannolan6656]

Great set of comprehensive videos… probably the ultimate KZbin guide for potential VFD installers like me..! A nice addition might be a cheap Chinese tachometer to show spindle speed..? Thanks from the UK.

[@kenbooth4746]

Thanks! Working on a Hardinge HC lathe controls Retrofit with 4 Motor controls. Very helpful

[@Isaiahoforbuiketheelectrical]

I love all your teachings it's very clear and understanding

[@kellyjones334]

Thank you for your videos that you present so professionally. I learned a lot and really enjoyed watching them.

[@greybeard3759]

Excellent project! So glad you explained about the contactor and how it works into the system. Now I can approach my conversion with somewhat less trepidation.

[@Clough42]

I'm glad it was helpful. A contactor latch is a simple thing, but if you've never seen how it works, it might as well be magic.

[@cdrive5757]

Even if you never run the spindle that slow it's fun to see it happen!

[@abdalsarah4088]

WE ARE SO GRATEFUL FOR THIS SERIES .....THANKS ALOT

[@keithrobinson5594]

Excellent presentation thank you. I’ve already done similar on a bandsaw a few years ago pre UTube but it would have been brilliant to have seen your ideas first. Looking at my pillar drill now for vfd and 3 phase conversion so your considered approach is very welcome. Great workmanship.

[@jessenazareth9054]

Good job man, very informative, its very useful for my future DIY projects. More power.

[@mansouradil5747]

Looking for word to use the VFD device in my 2 hp lathe (warco) after having this tons of informations from your series I am not really sure that i am able to find these equipments in my country (sudan) but.. yaa i will give it try Thanks man i really appreciate that

[@andrewsibley426]

Very well presented I have this VFD on my Harrison m300 and it works very well

[@zodiaceng]

Which contactor are you using? I see Teco specs the CN-11 which has now been replaced by the CU-11, which is impossible to find in stock anywhere. I have a switch/pot design I’m working on with a couple on/off switches. Contactor looks like the only way I’ll be able to make it all work properly. I truly appreciate these videos. They’re the best L510 videos I’ve found, and probably the best VFD videos in general.

[@Clough42]

Thank you! I reused the contactor that was originally in the lathe for the stock controls. It's a Siemens 3TB41 22E 110V.

[@georgecanto4279]

Hello James. If I got a metal lathe and has a 3 phase motor, stop and start bottoms and reverse switch and the Contactor. Can I install a VFD Single phase in, 3 phase out and just wire the lathe's leads in the VFD? Thank you for the video. it is amazing.

[@justincampbell4073]

Can you please please please make a video with detailed instructions on how to connect the centroid acorn to a vfd and how it is set up in the wizard!? Please, I have been struggling with this part alone for the last year and it is the final step before I can have a working Cnc router. I am embarrassed that I can’t figure it out and I humbly ask for your help. You have a way of explaining things to is easy for me to comprehend most times and I hope that you maybe able to help me get it through my thick scull how to set it up correctly.

[@Clough42]

I haven't done it either (yet). That project will be coming up at some point.

[@Chris-kl5rw]

Looks outstanding! Never thought of using a VFD in that way. Totally neat and professional. You must be some sort of engineer.

[@Clough42]

Thank you. Yes. I am some sort of engineer.

[@DavidLindes]

This whole series was interesting and informative, and I was feeling engaged throughout. Somehow, though, seeing you run it through its paces once the installation was all complete was just… a whole delight unto itself. That automatic ramping on the VFD controller made the forward and reverse switching perfectly safe… it felt like “noooo, don’t switch it at speed!”, and then… it’s fine! It just ramps. Very cool. Great work, past James! :)

[@seanwolfe9321]

I purchased everything from your links....very helpful, glad it supports your efforts here. One question about aux fan on motor, Do you want it blowing in it blowing out away from motor? I'm unsure what the motor does (primary in its forward rotation....) Don't want to counter act it!

[@Clough42]

Blowing in, over the motor body fins.

[@alexcoellor]

fantastic all 6 videos thank you

[@chperdue4492]

Nice set of videos. It helps me plan my mill 3ph in stall. Witch I am doing at this time. Thanks

[@Clough42]

Cool. Enjoy!

[@BillyTpower]

@clough42 What gauge of wire are the multi-colored control wires?

[@4costindan]

great job!

[@ramsaysg]

Great series which really helped answer some questions but left me with two more. Why does the cable for the contactor look so underrated for current? Also , how can you safely run the motor at twice the rated frequency?

[@joem3718]

Great Video!! I am about to add a variable speed motor to my wood lathe. My question to you is, what electrical contactor did you use? I could not find a description of it in your list of tools. Please advise and thank you!!

[@TheWrate]

Hi James, what contactor are you using?

[@Bowtie41]

Awesome series!Can you explain the "ground loop" you referred to?What does it do to the equip?I've always connected at both ends out of habit,and nothing blew up.Only time I had problems was running dual antennae on the mirrors of my truck grounded,but I thought it was an RF thing....Thanks for sharing!! I didn't see you torroids,is that why the monitor still freaks/crashes?BTW,you coulda used your 3M tape to make sure the cables were held down behind the panel,lol

[@liampollard2908]

Nice!

[@dwightcarlson7136]

So for the four wire plus ground cable, did you fold the white wire out of the way. i.e. you appeared to only use 3 of the 4 wire. ????

[@airriflemaniac]

Did you solve the monitor turning off when you shut the contactor off?

[@TonyUrryMakes]

Hit the stop before you change the belt positions- just saying.

[@Mrsvetsare]

lern alot from you

[@Cesarbelle832]

Good stuff

[@davidmyhre2720]

What size wire did you use for the control wire?

[@Neptune730]

Fantastic!!!

[@mariuscaracateanu2869]

👍 thanks again for sharring with us, well done, congratulaciones

[@tobiasripper4124]

thanks! i keep learning a lot from your videos. i have a question. is there a reliable way to read the RPM, that doesn't cost a fortune? you know, to show you on a diplay the exact RPM. it would make this project whole i think. Next stop DRO for the lathe? (i guess those do cost a bit haha)

[@turningpoint6643]

Yeah there is a way, a cheap $15 digital display off of Ebay and you'd need to probably remove the headstocks sheet metal to access the lathes spindle to mount whatever rotary pick up sensor type it uses.

[@Clough42]

Yes, there are lots of cheap tachometers all over eBay. Usually, there's a magnet you have to glue to the spindle or one of the gears and a hall-effect sensor. I'm actually thinking about building an electronic leadscrew someday (so many projects...) and that will have an encoder on the headstock that I can use to read the RPM. Though that's going to be a much more involved project than you probably have in mind (mechanical, electrical, microcontroller, software, etc.)

[@Clough42]

Oh, and yes. A DRO is also in the project backlog. In fact, I already have one, sitting in boxes in the corner of my living room, waiting. The only reason I haven't done it yet is because the X axis install is going to be very tight and I'm still waiting for the good idea that's going to make it easy. :)

[@jakegt1978]

What wiring size are you using for high voltage and low from lathe control panel from the lathe panel to VFD panel ? Where can you get the wire and do you have a affiliate link for the wire ? By any chance do you have a full diagram for wiring the control panel ? Any help appreciated. BTW awesome videos on this conversion.

[@Clough42]

The wires to the control panel are small--probably about 20-22AWG. Just be sure that the insulation is rated for the voltages you want to use. Off the top of my head, I think the cable I used is rated for 300V, which is typical. I don't have a full wiring diagram, but I did show a diagram for the contactor latching circuit in one of the videos.

[@jakegt1978]

@@Clough42 Yes you did show the latching contactor. You done a very good job explaining everything. I was in the process of ordering parts to do a VFD upgrade then saw your video and it helped me very much! Have you done much threading with this new motor ? How slow can you run it and still get good threading ? The lathe is stock for 150RPM and is a little fast for threading for me. I am hoping it can thread smoothly closer to 100RPM. Thanks again for such a great video series.

[@MrBradaz111]

With how you've wired the E-stop, it doesn't really work as an estop now does it? the power doesn't die off instantly? wouldn't it stop faster with it wired up as a stop button? I'm just about to do this process with my lathe, I got a hitachi x200, and it has 3 wire control, so I'm planning to wire it up with that, powering the VFD directly from mains via a filter. or is there a benifit to getting a contactor and looping it? maybe use a contactor but keep it purely for powering on the VFD, with the controls local to the VFD not the machine?

[@Clough42]

Sorry...I responded earlier and just realized what I said was wrong. The e-stop is wired so it shuts off the contactor and removes power from the VFD. This will override any problem at the VFD--even if it runs away and isn't responding to its input controls. Ironically, using the e-stop might take longer for the lathe to stop than if you just stop it with the VFD controls. This is because the VFD has active braking. If you just kill the power with the e-stop/contactor, it cuts the load loose and lets it spin down on its own, controlled primarily by friction in the spindle bearings. Is this better than wiring it as a stop control? It depends. Wiring it to the contactor removes the power and can safely shut down in some cases where the stop button wouldn't work (VFD firmware lockup, loose stop wire, etc.) But it doesn't take advantage of the brake. Wiring as a stop button would stop faster, but wouldn't necessarily stop the load under other, unexpected circumstances. At least the way it's working now, the switch must stay closed for the power to stay on. Hitting the e-stop, or even severing the wires will definitely cut the power.

[@MrBradaz111]

That's a great reply, thank you. I think what I will do then is get a contactor, and wire it in like you, putting the e-stop by the controls, BUT also use a stop command, that way if I just want to stop, I can stop, but if it runs away like you say, I can kill it totally. I can also use it to power off the drive when not in use. I think that is preferable for me, than having to learn to use the switches differently, bet you've hit that e-stop a few times instead of turning the direction control

[@AttilaAsztalos]

An e-stop should have _absolute_ authority. The way Clough42 did it, it does - because it cuts all power, full stop. The lathe WILL stop, no matter what. One could use various other solutions - including "asking" the VFD to please stop right fscking now, which might actually stop faster due to the mentioned active braking - but I much prefer definitive solutions with ultimate authority (exactly as this one ended up being) which rely on nothing and nobody else to stop, no matter what.

[@rickhope8496]

Having problems finding small amounts of the 9/4 wire plus ground, foil shield, where did you get yours?

[@Clough42]

For stuff like this, there's always someone on eBay selling shorter lengths off a spool. Try searching for "shielded 9-conductor cable" or something similar.

[@joeturner5508]

@@Clough42 James what size wire is the 9/4 wire plus ground. I have ordered the same motor and very from your links I would ask if you could list those grade wires it would be very helpful so I can order them also. Thanks

[@michaellitzkow8123]

James, thank you so much for all the time and effort to share this information. I bought a South Bend 13 this week and it has a 3-phase motor. I plan to use a VFD to accomplish the phase conversion. I don't think I will use the VFD to increase the speed range as you have done. I would be concerned about running the plain bearings in the lathe above their design speed and back gears in the lathe already get it pretty slow at the low end. One concern I have is that the original motor isn't inverter rated. I wonder if you have any thoughts about the safety of using an older industrial duty motor in this way?

[@steveu235]

what are you using for a heat gun?

[@Clough42]

For the heat shrink? I'm actually using a hot air solder rework station. It's way overkill, but it's a pretty nice option if it's already on the bench.

[@GenePavlovsky]

I watched these video series with pleasure, it's well done, with detailed clear explanations, but doesn't get boring. The contactor schematic you're using can be used to retrofit any old-fashioned tool (e.g. a bench grinder) that had a on/off toggle switch, with separate start and stop push buttons (and an emergency stop if desired). This provides a "no-volt release" (NVR) feature, meaning the device won't automatically restart after a power outage, this is good for safety. However, in the VFD context, I don't really understand why are you using this wiring. I think all the VFDs provide low-voltage (safer) control inputs that can be programmed to be used for starting, stopping and E-stopping the motor. The VFD remains powered and in control of stopping the motor (possibly using DC injection or an external brake resistor to stop the motor more quickly). If the power to the VFD is cut by the magnetic contactor, motor coasts to a stop. It might not be very healthy for the VFD itself, either (could be OK depending on the model/manufacturer). As an example, a quote from Yaskawa V1000 manual: "Install a MC on the input side of the drive when the drive should not automatically restart after power loss. To get the full performance life out of the electrolytic capacitors and circuit relays, refrain from switching the MC more than once every 30 minutes. Frequent use can damage the drive. Use the drive to stop and start the motor." So, my advice to everyone watching these videos, please do read your VFD's manual fully, and give preference to the wiring diagrams listed in there, for connecting the controls. Edit: I watched it again and see now that you're starting the lathe only once and then using the 3-position L/0/R switch to control the motor. So the VFD is not being power cycled every start/stop. So that should be fine, then. I still think it would be more safer to use the VFD's E-stop input (if available) instead of the magnetic contactor shutting down the inverter. The VFD would stop the motor faster, and it can probably be set up to do it faster than a regular (non-emergency) stop.

[@spehropefhany]

I'm not a big fan of using low voltage (soft) switching when you have your hands in around the belts. It's not 100% positive off.

[@GenePavlovsky]

@@spehropefhany Why would you have your hands around the belts? Every VFD being sold is controlled with low voltage switching, what is the problem with that?

[@spehropefhany]

@@GenePavlovsky If you review the video, James had the contactor energized and his hands in the belts with only the switch off. I simply don't trust "soft" switching when it comes to life and death or maiming. You'll find many engineers have similar opinions, we've seen things bugger up too often, for example from a lightning strike or EMI.

[@GenePavlovsky]

@@spehropefhany I see your point. If opening the "hood", trip the E-stop for extra safety or even remove power from the VFD altogether. And once you have a working ELS, you don't have to open the hood anymore.

[@spehropefhany]

@@GenePavlovsky Exactly.

[@twobob]

tidy

[@bretthl1]

I'm not convinced you have the latch circuit configured correctly. You should be able to activate the ESD with the motor running, reset the ESD w/ motor control switch in FWD or REV and the motor should not start. With power to the VFD disconnected and motor control switch in FWD or REV and then power re-connected to the VFD, the motor should not start. I'm not familiar with this particular VFD but you may find that it has logic controls for USP (unintended start protection) and EXT (external trip). With USP and adding a NO switch module to your ESD you can eliminate relay latch circuit and accomplish these important safety features. Then you can re-purpose your the start button to jog. You should also consider moving the ESD to the mount hole closest to the chuck.

[@Clough42]

There are two layers of protection against an unintended start. First, if power is lost and restored, the contactor will not engage until someone presses the green button. Second, even then, the motor will not start until the VFD sees the run switch in the stop position first. Many other configurations are possible. My goal was to keep the controls and behavior the same as stock. (Of course with the addition of electronic unintended start protection in the VFF)

[@balesguy]

Your videos are the best! Very informative and thorough. But the little story about your Grandfather buying you your first wrench and the fact that you still use it is priceless. You had a great teacher from a young age. Love it.

[@seanwolfe9321]

Another round of questions. The (L) in on filter is grounded to case?? Also, I am having a bit of a tough time clearly seeing the in/out connections on the contactor, could you clarify please? Thank man!

[@andr27]

25:07 thats amazing, you start lathe and turn off video XD at the same time.

[@nicolaspillot5789]

I was anxious to see if the EMI protection were enough ... (i giggled when the camera ange changed immediately)

[@BROCKWOOD64]

I was given my little 4" crescent wrench back in 92 by a former boss. I supplied each apprentice under me with 1 as well. It's in my pocket from start to finish daily!

[@AttilaAsztalos]

There seems to be a very conspicuous lack of ferrite rings in the final wiring. Anything you might want to share...? ;)

[@dwightcarlson7136]

What gauge is the wire in the control/shielded cables?

[@michaellazarowicz5421]

Does anyone or James know how much that 110 contactor coil circuit draws when energized ? My switches are basically the same as James's , He used a smaller gauge wire to energies and control them but does not mention the size. I want to make sure I am using the correct size wire for the 110 volt lines. The switches are rated at 10 amps. Also since it uses the same power feeding the VFD, the 20+ amp circuit breaker really will not protect that line well.

[@rubarb0406]

James, I have watched your entire series on installation of the new motor and VFD. Kudos! I appreciate what you have done, as I am about to install a VFD on my equipment. I am going to attempt to use the same VFD for my lathe (3 HP), milling machine (2 HP), and surface grinder (3 HP). I also have a pantograph but it has such a small motor, it will function off its own VFD. You have run your system now for sufficient time to know if there are any wrinkles. I was a touch concerned when you mounted the aux fan directly on the housing for the fan of your motor. I envisioned that the external fan would impede the draw of the fan on the motor and for that reason you would actually be better off running the two fans simultaneously on all speeds. Any issues on this count?

[@patrickmuleega1506]

Thanks alot sir can I have an f700 programming using the panel on its face

[@davidhaywood9071]

I know you did this build over three years ago so it's old to you. I am looking at doing some work with a VFD so I watched your entire series. It was great and I really appreciate how you explain all of the details. I think my chances of succeeding are much better now,

[@stuff3250]

Great tutorial on selecting and installing your Techo VFD as I am planning on installing one for my drill press (L510 220v single phase in 220v three phase out). I have downloaded the manual and just completed my first reading. So my question for you is why did you decide to install a contactor for the external controls instead of wiring directly into the VFD?

[@cs9260]

The contactor addition seems popular. The logic is, if the power goes out and is restored, the machine doesn't resume running without a reset. I set a parameter in my VFD that requires the "forward-off-reverse" switch to be cycled to off before restarting due to power failure or stop button/brake activation.

[@saritsotangkur2438]

Definitely don’t change belts while the contactor is still energized.

[@ronniepirtlejr2606]

You will be going to bed with a big happy grin on your face tonight! :-)

[@MotoERS]

Do you use gfci protection for VFD?

[@TheRetiredtech]

This is old but a great serries I'm

[@carypeltier8247]

Where you get the cable?

[@MichaelLloyd]

I spy most of a resistor color code in your wire color code :) I waited for you to finish the info about the drain wire... that was awesome. There aren't many that know grounding the shield on both ends is asking for noise. And you topped it off with heat shrink. That's much neater (looks better too imho) than electrical tape. Now back to the video...

[@Clough42]

Good eye. The cable had all the right colors to use the standard IEC color code, so I figured that would be the least surprising thing to whoever works on this machine after me. You're right--grounding can be tricky. It seems like the simplest thing, but there are lots of ways to get in trouble. And don't get me started on electrical tape. I guess there are some very nice high-quality products fit for some purpose or other, but I can't stand the stuff. It doesn't stay put long-term, and everything ends up sticky when you have to work on it later.

[@forgottenheritagehomestead8448]

Outstanding!

[@seanwolfe9321]

Well James, since my electrical knowledge isn't at your level, and I cannot make out the wiring very clearly, I'm passing on the line filter as neutral seems to be just another "hot" wire to me and grounding it seems illogical. Hopefully you'll shed some light and I can add at another date.

[@sunimalfernando4347]

😘❤️👍👍👍👏👏

[@zachofalltrades6116]

Can you show on this how you updated the fan in the box with the charger on your last video you hooked it up straight to live and neutral on the noise reducer. So how did you hook it up to the vfd to run?

[@paulkramer4176]

Nice, but I'm surprised you bother to leave the contactor in place. A VFD does that job for you. If you lose power and then the power comes back on, the VFD will not provide power to the lathe. The user must punch the run button again. I do appreciate that you basically put in a remote keypad. I run quite a few VFDs and most folks don't take the trouble to remotely place the VFD. You want to keep them cool and dust free as possible. For my lathes and big bandsaw I have put in remote keypads. (some lathes have a keypad that is easily removable, and all you need is a cable set up for that). But for other machines, like my table saw, I just run a 2 wire start stop (usually between GND and X1 or such) With that switch close to my hip, it is very convenient for turning off a powered machine.

[@raysimon1368]

That was a great job I would like to do the exact same thing to my step pulley Bridgeport's mill I'm a retired machinist but electrical is not one of my things sounds like you have a background in electrical my brideport has a 2hp motor on it and I think it is 440 3phase would this work on it i love the variable speed option

[@boblewis5558]

Excellent job. Also given me scope for thought re: my VFD that recently arrived which I'm planning to use to supply three phase generically to several devices in my shed. They will all receive three phase via one contactor but via an arduino control will ONLY receive power on a first come first served basis. First one powered on gets the power provided the other three devices are off. A panel driven by the Arduino will indicate which device currently has power so it will be easy to safely identify which is causing a lockout. VERY impressed with the smoothness of speed increment, the relatively low noise (including the lathe gearing) and the instantaneous ability to go from full forward to full reverse. Great wiring job too.

[@billsmith5166]

How do people know that you did everything unless it's visible and properly hot glued (especially lighted displays)? All the rest of the controls on the face of the lathe should have proper sticky notes labeled "see above" with arrows pointing to the new control. BTW, that is really nice. The sound generated is actually relaxing. Good job.

[@JimWhitaker]

One of those Wago multiple connectors on the DIN rail would be a nicer solution for multiple earth connections.

[@dwightcarlson7136]

How did you arrive at 2 kilo ohm for the size of your pot/speed control? I have seen other VFD installation videos which refer to 10 kilometers ohm. ????

[@dhorne902]

James: have you lost the braking power of the Vfd with the 3 phase motor by connecting the e-stop to the single phase input to the VFD. I am rewiring my larthe with the e-stop in series with an off/on toggle and the for/rev switch an I maintain my breaking . ( just bench testing, no permanent wires yet) Just looking for your thoughts . Dave

[@stephenjohnson6841]

I'm a very new subscriber. I just wanted to say that I really appreciate the way you do your videos. Thanks!

[@yomama5785]

What contactor is that? do I need to use one of them and a noise suppressor? I was just going to use a wall switch to turn the l510 on and off via a switched outlet.

[@ruwangaliyanage1250]

you've done an excellent job and very detailed. I saw your monitor again off while you turn on the machine and again you hit the stop button is that normal??

[@slasher102]

Great video could you share the wire ring diagram for the contactor please, Happy subscriber

[@bhavesh2467]

hi james. can you provide or post control wiring diagram for vfd to control panel component wiring. I am little confused as not remember video in mind. i hope u understand.

[@Dwarfgrinder]

There is a comment in my manual for a chinese vfd to not use the magnetic contactor as the switch for the vfd. Why is this? Maybe a translation issue?

[@Clough42]

You should not use a magnetic contactor between the VFD and the motor. You want to use the VFD to slow and stop the motor under electronic control instead of just disconnecting it, or disconnecting the VFD from its power. To disconnect the power on the source side, after stopping the motor, a contactor is fine.

[@atothek1804]

Mitsubishi FR-D740-SC vfd Installation manual say too "don't use magnetic contactor to open power line phases off source side.

[@royfullmer7844]

The high voltage cable you have picked is not rated to for 120 volt control power.

[@kevin00861]

Amazing job and very informative, Please keep posting more videos!

[@PBS-nm1uu]

this is the best presentation in all the videos i have seen all your videos were very informative thanks for all the info.

[@lesthompson5907]

no answer to the previa comment on 12vot /24voyl mobility y scooter-motors them ,

[@LarrysMachineShop]

Awesome again. You gave me enough incentive and your perfect teaching method means I will btr trying this as well. I have a Sieg Lathe C6. Thank you for your patience and willingness to share all of this. Sincerely Laurence

[@JohannSwart_JWS]

I wasn't even there. But during those test runs the pucker factor was high....

[@willywgb]

Very nice and neat installation. Good job. VFD's make running machines so much more enjoyable. My CNC Mill has a VFD. I have a three phase motor and drive to install on my Lathe. Just need to find the time to install it. Great idea switching on the electric cooling fan at lower speeds. I hope my VFD is capable of doing this? Keep up the good work with your videos. Found your channel when looking for examples of electronic gear boxes. Hope you continue with this project. Cheers Willy

[@chrisdonnelly2797]

Hello James I have enjoyed the vfd series video series. I was wondering what recommendation you would have for a wood lathe control panel as far as dust control. Still being able to use cooling fans. Thank you for any input!

[@asgharrezaei0138]

Perfect, very nice without any problem set up , good luck man

[@samrodian919]

Thank you for a very informative series for the installation of a variable speed upgrade for your lathe. I am hoping to do this to both my WARCO 300 metal lathe and to my woodturning lathe as well .Hopefully the VFD I have ordered will be as versatile as your Westinghouse one. Time will tell. I had no idea you could double the speed like that by increasing the frequency so much. Is your new motor a two or four pole? Given that you said it was around 1800 rpm i suspect that it is a 4 pole. Here in the UK we are on 240 v lot and running 50 Hz so the 3 phase motors which have 4 poles run around 1420 rpm and 2 poles 2840.

[@vanphonghuynh5542]

Excelent, I learn so much from these clips. Thank you. There is one thing to need more: attach a screen on the panel to view speed.

[@Welder6131]

Is the 9 wire ok to use with a 220v vfd?

[@incubatork]

A rev counter would be more than handy, saves having to get the calculator

[@BillyTpower]

What gauge of wire are the multi-colored control wires?

[@robertbreland4356]

Nice job and very informative. Time to do one for my G0602

[@rexmyers991]

Excellent Series! Thank you, Sir

[@FlashTechEngineering]

Thanks excellent video series on VFD conversion, I've considered a conversion on my gear head lathe 7.5 kw motor, lowest speed is 25 and highest 1165 , I would like to goes as low a 3 rpm for metal wrought iron twisting and scroll attachments and also have a higher rpm range for matching, do you think this could be possible ?? Thanks David

[@Clough42]

It's possible. If the motor is rated for 10:1 inverter duty, like the one I used, and you gear the lathe for 25 RPM, you should be able to turn it at 2.5 RPM. The question then becomes one of torque. 7.5KW is a lot of power, and if you can gear it for 25 RPM, there will be a lot of mechanical advantage. So basically, the motor will be pretty weak because it's running so slowly, but it's a big motor and will be geared for a lot of torque, so I'm not sure what to expect.