Mt. Shasta’s deadly disaster

Within hours, a perfect morning turned into one of the most hectic and gut-wrenching days on Mt. Shasta in recent memory.
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[@mannybsnss10]

I guided 4 times in Mt. Shasta. Summited twice and had to turn back the other 2 times for safety reasons (one time I ran out of time, the other, too much wind at Red Banks). Risk assessment and turning back will keep you safe. The mountain decides if you go up, not you.

[@Foxyfreedom]

The winds up there passed red banks seem to be over 60 mph every time I go

[@irenan6585]

Yes, it's always the mountain's last word.

[@johncarter1223]

I grew up in Mt. Shasta City, and have summited the mountain twice. It feels like every year there is someone or group of people that die on the mountain. Some are obviously avoidable (such as the person who tried climbing the mountain in flip flops), and others are just plain accidents. Mountaineering is dangerous. People die. And most people consider Mt. Shasta to be a novices mountain. I agree, but let me put into context what a novice mountaineering expedition truly is. The first time I did it, I was a triathlete and a carpenter. Even though I was in really good shape, it hurt a lot. You feel buzzed with a headache from the altitude, exhausted, sleep deprived, all while trying to make smart decisions. It took 8 hours to summit, but don't forget that is the half way point. I had to get back down That, I think, is the deadliest part. I wasn't fortunate enough to glissade down, so I had to walk. That took 4 hours. 12 hours of climbing.

[@norml.hugh-mann]

Pretty much any glaciated peak accessible to people takes lives annually

[@norml.hugh-mann]

Mountains are much more dangerous with height, wind, traction, rockfalls, Mountains ARE FREAKING DANGEROUS

[@johncarter1223]

@@norml.hugh-mann Yes they are, but they are also beautiful. It's very surreal to be out there. I would recommend anyone try it as long as they get fit, and learn how to be comfortable enough on a mountain.

[@vickij8417]

I like this comment. Respectful, no attitude. Honest and sensible.

[@buc890]

The 12 hr total hike was during the winter?

[@mikejohnson5900]

People who think their guide's job is to bring them to the summit regardless of conditions or extenuating circumstances are out of their minds. If the guide is telling you that it is unsafe to continue, why would you argue with them, or even be disappointed? Sure, you want to get to the top...but also want to return to the bottom, and get in your car and drive home. I honestly don't understand people sometimes.

[@redrockcrf4663]

Because they don't realise they are making that decision at the time. Ever see Touching the Void opening sequence? When it's going well it's wonderful, but when it goes bad, it goes very bad very quickly....

[@_nick_d]

Well said, don’t make it your last climb. If you are upset bout “losing” that money, then you are in the wrong sport.

[@norml.hugh-mann]

A true Guides job is to advise and sometimes equip climbers with the goal being to bring you home alive and uninjured,not reach some meaningless, arbitrary point on the planet...thats just the projected turnaround...but knowing when and where to turnaround safely is where the true test of a Guides skill come in

[@rockcycle824]

People who feel that way are tourists and have no respect for the mountain (or the guide). As they say, "getting to the top is optional, getting back down is mandatory." Every climber knows that sometimes you're lucky to just live to climb another day, and the mountain will always be there another day.

[@werquantum]

The guides should make it very clear what their responsibilities are. Put it in writing and have the clients read it and sign it. It won’t prevent the most difficult client from raising hell, but it will prevent most.

[@robertspies4695]

I self arrested on the downside of the Bergschrung on Mt. Darwin in Alaska. My crampons were balled up with snow and the leading leg slipped. The acceleration in the first second of the fall was unbelievable. Luckily I was traveling feet first and I was able to get over my ice ax very quickly and stop slidding. Otherwise it was a thousand steep feet to a squeeze chute lined by rocks. One of the scariest things I ever experienced. I climbed the north side of Shasta in October of 1997, aside from sinking waist deep into a shallow crevase (we were roped) it all went well and we were bliessed with good conditions.

[@RetNemmoc555]

I've done the waist deep into a shallow crevasse thing before. It was unnerving, especially to someone like me who has little desire for risk taking. Be safe.

[@robertspies4695]

@@RetNemmoc555 It gave my partner, a novice, behind me a chance to arrest a fall. I had just showed him an hour before how to do that.

[@lisaschuster686]

OMG. I never imagined that - crampons stuffed with snow! Might as well be wearing moccasins!

[@DisNS333]

I slipped on Shasta at Red Banks, and the fall was quick! I had to act in less than 2 seconds because the drop was very steep. You really have to put crazy energy into driving that ice axe into the snow to anchor yourself in. I'll still want a good bit of practice before any climb because I KNOW what to expect, and I do not want that skill to get rusty.

[@ShuKatashSam]

I climbed Shasta a decade ago, the warm days caused the same slick hard ice through the Red banks, happens a lot. Not out of the ordinary. We chose that path because the other side glacier had a thin ice bridge out of a nightmare and the climbers the day before tried it and said it was likely someone would fall through. I was a bit worn out by the time I got to the Red Banks, but relieved. Yes, rock hard and thick ice through the steepest part of the climb. It was about 7 am when we got the base of the Red Banks. An ice axe and chop chop chop away I went. Took me about 2 hours, but I made nice stairs that each person's foot/boot and crampon would fit into. I guess 300 or so stairs. I looked back and several other groups all followed us up. 5 other groups came up that day from that same route, all safe and no issues. Everyone got a lot of use out my effort/choice and got back down safe and had an awesome climb. Crampons were not going to stick to that hard ice knew it. This mountain can easily kill you. Being blown off Misery Hill is a common story. 80-100 mph wind and a sudden storm. That happened on Sargent's Ridge. We turned around and came down quick. Back then, you had a 1 in 3 chance of summitting the mountain. So 3 attempts, you get one summit.

[@michaelcomer1645]

Thank you for sharing this. We as a community learn way more from stories like this verses the successful summit stories imo.

[@kaywin132]

I facilitated this woman’s funeral in Mt. Shasta. I always wondered what had happened. Everything is so chaotic after the fact that the story becomes misconstrued. Glad to gain some clarity. I have never been so moved by a group of people the way I was by the people who came to say goodbye to her. There were many who loved her so deeply. One of the most difficult cases I’ve ever experienced. She was taken from this world way too soon.

[@joeomundson]

Same, I guess it is good to know more about what happened. I went to the service they did for her in Oregon so I can imagine what you might have experienced, thanks for facilitating the Shasta one.

[@johndunn6756]

I live 35 miles from Mt. Shasta and work in Mt. Shasta city. I've lived in the area for 44 years and, sadly, at least once a year, sometimes two or three, someone loses their life on Mt. Shasta. My brother in law used to work search & rescue and every spring he was called multiple times a week to look for, or rescue, someone on that mountain. It may be classified as a novice climb, but I wish they would recategorize that. Too many people take the mountain for granted and it bites them. Mt. Shasta may not be the tallest peak in the range, but it is the largest in mass. Something that big will, and has, created its own weather. And it will do it in a matter of minutes

[@Kimberley-Z]

Nick Meyers, the Lead Climbing Ranger for USFS, is awesome, experienced and quite aware of the subjective and objective hazards on Mount Shasta; he was quite correct, one must not fall. We had an old saying during my days of rock climbing and mountaineering, falling is unthinkable. In my opinion, this accident was 100 percent preventable. The mountain guide, Ms. Webster, made a bad judgement call on taking two inexperienced clients up Red Banks on very treacherous ice, the objective hazard. This was the main causal factor of this accident although there might have been other factors too. In my view, the two clients were the weak link in this climbing team. In the past, we have had to back off of peaks in the Sierras for all sorts of reasons, weather, rock fall, route finding problems and running out of time, one of the mountaineer’s enemies. The mountain guide’s job is to get the client up and down the peak, safely and in one piece, health and safety is first and top priority, no matter what, even when an objective hazard, the glaze/ice was encountered, the guide, Ms. Webster, should have had her clients turn around and back off of the peak and return to base camp. Sadly, she paid with her life. With that being said, the guide ought to be checking the client’s qualifications, competence and experience before climbing any peak as the health and safety stakes and liability can be quite high in the sport of mountaineering.

[@mannybsnss10]

Excellent take. 100% agree

[@Kimberley-Z]

@@mannybsnss10 thank you for your support, much appreciated. May all of your climbs be safe ones.

[@TLH442]

Yes some of the comments earlier weren't really questioning the guide and her decision and the resulting outcome. Sad what's happened but we all know mountaineering is risky so that's the drill. Yeah ice, taking people across hard ice you better have a lot of ice experience. Ice screws I mean were they protected properly? Cutting steps is the other option but that's usually done in softer conditions. Been a long time since I was on Rainier and Shasta but they were both amazing experiences. Didn't summit either but I had like a lot of drama that's for sure. I'll come back here maybe and tell him my stories. Blend by saying that people if they characterize this mountain as a beginner peak they're totally wrong. Beginner peaks are a walk up and they're maybe 10,000 ft. Even when you're walking up a peek when you come back down you can get off route and then to dangerous terrain. So no no there's no tourist route, forget that. I may seem preachy here but I don't like seeing people die, that's horrible. Bowling is the worst way to die I think maybe even worse than car crashes and plane crashes. Mountaineering is like that. The best holiday you could ever have but it can turn into the worst way to die.

[@brucechristensen]

@@TLH442 Yeah, I also wonder if they were protected in with ice screws. On ice like that, you either have to protect it well with screws, or you have to go unroped. Being roped without protection on steep ice doesn't decrease risk, it increases it.

[@shaidan86]

One of my crampons broke on the way down misery hill from the summit of Shasta. So I ended up glissading from red banks all the way down to Helen lake. At one point I lost control of my glissade and had to self arrest. It was the first time I had used self arrest "in anger" as my old instructor used to say. It blew my mind just how long it took from once I set my axe to actually stopping my fall. As a guide, I disagree with the sentiment that the guide in this segment gave about what his job is. The job isn't to get people to the top safely, the job of a guide is to get people back home safely.

[@timmyopally]

I mean he meant exactly that - if summiting is unsafe the implication is not to summit.

[@6ft8incyclist]

Roped together???? Shasta does not have Glaciers. It only has a small snow field. But I fell on Shasta Aug 1997. Was around 13,0000ft, around 1300 in the afternoon I had a crampon come loose on my left boot. I was on blue ice ona steep decent. I fell and slide a good distant tried rolling over to try different ice ax arrest. But the ice was to slick and hard. I came to a stop when my right boot caught and ice wall and stuck, as I was stopping I kept hearing loud breaks and popping sounds. When I stopped and was assessing my damages, my right foot was flipped backward and the bottom of my boot was facing me. I broke my right Fibula, my right ankle, and my right foot. Not a good thing to do at 13000 feet.. I would again like to thank the mountain rescuers the many teams that help get me down to 10000 ft around 2000 hours it was getting dark and thunderstorms rolling in.. Thank you to the California state hwy patrol helio that found a small break in the thunder storms as the storms was rolling in and picking my Hypothermia body up..The team at Shasta hospitality surgery and the whole nursing staff that took care of me while I was there.. My condolences to the family of the snow border that died on Shasta that night.. A heavy snow fell that night The view of the mountain from my hospital bed with fresh snow at sunrise was a site I will not forget..

[@leonardmay9517]

Shasta has many glaciers.

[@danrosen3467]

Yes, too many people learn to self-arrest with their ice axe and the toes of their boots, but never practice with bent knees to hold the crampons away from the snow or ice.

[@xmnemonic]

gumby has never been on the north face it seems.

[@johnshreve184]

I made Mt Shasta an annual event. I'm not a "mountaineer", but I equipped myself well and paid close attention to weather and conditions. I ended up making 8 attempts over the years, summitting 5 of those times. On one of those failures, I got into the glissade chute much earlier in the day than I ever had. It was too frozen and self arrest never had a chance. The universe allowed me to stop before Lake Helen, and I had zero injuries. But I knew I went by several rock outcroppings and NONE with my name on them. On a subsequent climb, I avoided that chute (for obvious reasons), but my alternate path took me right back into it, and I once again had no control. For a 2nd time, I got stopped with no injuries. These were the last of my annual climbs. The mountain was telling me something and now I heard it. I gave away all my mountaineering equipment and sighed heavily.

[@codyanderson1062]

Ya don't glissade 😭

[@janefromtennessee]

Good

[@oreides]

i truly mean this, you were wise to listen.

[@goodSchnoggs]

Many years ago two of us set up a tent at the trailhead area and then realized my friend had forgotten his sleeping bag. We drove down to Shasta, rented a motel room, got up at 11:00, got prepared in a well-lit, dry comfortable motel room and then headed back up to the trailhead. Weather was a bit bad and all the climbers from the hut went part way and returned. We made it to the summit, but I do remember that at the red banks, it was a bit icy and steep, causing a little worry; "I don't like this!" I could see that a fall here would have not been good. But we leveled off a bit and continued. On our way down we found a man-made chute that banked and turned perfectly for a long slide down without the need to self-arrest. One of my most enjoyable descents of any mountain I've climbed.

[@diegomontoya8889]

When the climbing Ranger said, "There are places where you must not fall," I thought that was an interesting statement. Growing up in Snohomish County, WA, in the shadow of Mount Pilchuck and way off in the distance, the majestic Glacier Peak, Mount Baker and of course Tahoma to the south, many of the volcanoes are both breathtaking and unforgiving. I only know enough about climbing to know what I am capable of, and what to steer clear of. I consider a ton of the mountains I climb in the Cascades to be "must not fall" places. There are a lot of steep hillsides with boulders and trees that will definitely "break" your fall. Many of the interior cascade mountains are covered in snow into June and July. Shasta is unique that it really isn't part of the Sierra Nevadas, but the southern edge of the Cascades, almost to Oregon, and should be treated as such.

[@javiersavinien6609]

I summited on June 9th, 2022. The rangers told us to take an alternate route to the summit due to the ice. We had originally planned to take this one. Thoughts and prayers to the family.

[@MomentswithDavid]

I wonder if Rangers told her the same thing

[@BrianSweeney1985]

Something I hadn't considered or really heard or read about (until I was rocketing downhill at terminal velocity) is that sometimes snow is too soft for successful self arrest. You always think that the snow that is bulletproof is what will get you, but snow soft enough to give away when plunge a tool into it can simultaneously be firm and fast enough to kill you as well. It's like the ranger says - some places are just no fall zones without further qualification.

[@gonebabygone4116]

The summit might be the motivation for being there, but the guide's job is to get you OFF the mountain. Years ago I carried my hiking partner's injured keeshond off Grays & Torreys, and later abandoned my own effort to summit Monadnock, instead joining a small group carrying out a woman with a broken ankle. If you can't gracefully accept defeat, don't even start. If the guide says no, a summit selfie is a poor bargain if you end up paying with your life.

[@Kimberley-Z]

The mountain guide’s job is to get the client up and down the peak, safely and in one piece, health and safety is first and top priority, no matter what, even when an objective hazard, the glaze/ice was encountered, the guide, Ms. Webster, should have had her clients turn around and back off of the peak and return to base camp. Sadly, she paid with her life. With that being said, the guide ought to be checking the client’s qualifications, competence and experience before climbing any peak as the health and safety stakes and liability can be quite high in the sport of mountaineering.

[@betsybarnicle8016]

@@Kimberley-Z As a past Sierra Club outing leader, for certain types of trips we had hikers submit signed health forms. This is due to the fact that the leaders are personally liable, not the S.C. We were allowed to reject people at our own judgement of the trip difficulty vs. the submitted backgrounds and health forms. I once had to politely refuse an applicant (heart issues), and he later submitted a recent doctor's physical that was slightly better. I regret approving him, because at the traihead he cut himself and had trouble stopping the small cut's bleeding (on blood thinners). Only a few hours into the hike he bailed back to the parking lot on his own (my tail sweep let him go), and thankfully I had a cell phone to alert and communicate with the rangers that he made it back ok. I once allowed a hiker on a trip when I shouldn't have. They pre-signed forms to not wear sandals and must have a hat and a certain amount of water and agree to water stops. This hiker arrived with sandals and no hat, but I wrongly let her go. Almost half way she suffered heat exhaustion and needed carried by two hikers down the trail.

[@nomadiclivingart]

Rest in Peace Jillian 💓 May you be remembered for ever through your bright spirit and through the individuals you have graced throughout your journey. May your story be heard and felt deeply. May your heroic story be the cautionary tale to save so many others. May the individuals you directly saved with your life for ever carry you on and save others in your name. May your story remind us all that nature is in control of our lives, no other force.

[@thisandthat8686]

I used to deliver newspapers as a kid in Mount Shasta. My family had property in Weed and in Gazelle. Calling her a novice mountain is dangerous. My dad is a very experienced outdoorsman, and he had an accident after having been to the summit several times before. You always need to be on high alert on nature’s turf, regardless of the scenery.

[@hellokittie9000]

My family owned the souvenir shop used to be rock shop aunt Ella uncle cliff , always looking for more Information pictures anything of my childhood there in weed ca. it was so small just tumble weeds

[@jimvick8397]

Like 10 year ago on Rainier on the traverse from the Emmons to the Winthrop Glaciers and on up to the summit there was a large patch of rime ice on a steep slope with a high penalty for failure... I always had a file in my pocket in case I needed to "touch up" my crampon spikes so they would bite it... We took a 15 minute break, passed the file around, then made our way to the summit. Descending that patch was a rush... I know what the ranger means when he says, "There are times in mountaineering when one must not fall."

[@Moonflower52]

The Indian tribal people respect Mount Shasta and never go above the tree line.

[@eveningstar1]

interesting. have only ever camped at the base. incredible energy of the place.

[@tgamron]

I stood at the summit in 1993. Looking back, we didn't know what we were doing.

[@stevenmalmberg9895]

I too was there 16 years ago and suddenly slid about a half mile with no injuries luckily…

[@R3l3ntl3sss]

Wow

[@lisaschuster686]

My husband tried twice to get to the top when he was in peak condition and failed. It is a tough summit.

[@33Jenesis]

I did it a few years ago via an overnight trek. We set up tents at the base of the bowl and summited the next day. We zigzaged the bowl, not going straight up. It is a beautiful speak with all around views.

[@danielevans3932]

I've only been around the 10000ft level on the Breur side. I was satisfied and climbing to the glaciers. I Didn't stay long. A storm brewed out of nowhere and visibility went to nothing. Total whiteout. I respect the mountain and settle Eddy or Lassen. My friend wants to climb it and I told him that I'm not that thirsty for this adventure. I'll pass.

[@norml.hugh-mann]

Smart people know their limits....

[@karolisk]

So sad. First time I climbed Shasta in 2012 with a buddy I definitely did not fully appreciate all the risks. 2014 tried it again and decided to turn my group around mid mountain because we were not doing well and timing was bad. It’s so critical to stay lucid and not fixated on the summit when you do these things. Always, always it still requires a little bit of luck.

[@geoff4705]

What a wise and well-balanced documentary. Thank you!

[@islandbirdw]

It’s a deadly game. The mountain wins from time to time. So sorry to their loved ones. 😢

[@chuckoffcampus9738]

A friend who had climbed Shasta a number of times before was killed on the mountain about 21 years ago.

[@oreides]

wow they slid so far, thats strange... all i'm going to say is that i listen to the tribe when i visit mt shasta and every time has been amazing. they are strongly against all that summiting traffic, they say humans are risking their souls up there not just their lives. that mountain has a way of kicking people off it in strange ways

[@dtaylor4200]

David was my guide on Shasta in 2021. His knowledge on the climb was very reassuring and he was incredibly professional. I’d feel safe climbing anywhere with him.

[@aliensoup2420]

I'm a day-hiker in CA, and deliberately avoid hiking in snow, primarily for the reason in this video - it's too treacherous. Also, it's cold and awkward to travel through. I grew up in Montana, and got my fill of snow as a child, but I moved south at 21, never to return to live there again. I mountain hike in the summer only, after the snow is melted away. Passage is relatively safe and easy, and I can see the mountain, streams, and trees - not a massive wall of white. The closest I have been to a slippery, precarious step was on Mt. Whitney, at the top of the switchbacks near Trail Crest. In mid July there was still snow on the trail, and I stopped at the top of the 'chute' that extends 1000 ft from the edge of the trail to the basin hosting Trail Camp. My toes were literally on the edge of the slide - I took a photo of my feet looking straight down. When the snow is adequate and conditions are right, many hikers glissade 1000 ft down the chute to avoid the monotonous trek down the switchbacks. I'll walk the extra distance and enjoy the view and the warmth of the summer sun - without needing to carry the extra weight of metal snow gear.

[@congruentcrib]

This kinda hits hard for me. I live in northern Illinois, and the tallest point in the state is someone’s backyard. I’ve watched a lot of disaster video/stories, and it’s made me want to try these things, but then I’m reminded that I can’t just put on a jacket and some warm socks and just climb these mountains.

[@Foxyfreedom]

I’m from sandwich Illinois. I feel a spiritual connection to the mountain. With enough training and route studying it’s doable for about anyone. I have yet to summit from avalanche gulch but it’s steep and if it’s icy like that just turn around and come back another day. I follow a rule, if you don’t know, don’t go. Idk if they looked at trip reports or were the first ones on the mountain that day but there are trip reports and people that have been up there that can tell you if it’s too icy or unsafe.

[@benjamintryon813]

Yes but you can climb much easy peaks that give you that real mountain feel!! There's plenty of amazing, tall peaks with a simple trail going to the top.

[@congruentcrib]

@@benjamintryon813 I think part of the thrill of climbing a mountain is the idea of it being an award of some type; something to say "i've done this". The challenge is a big part of the climb, and it's something that I can't get into without moving a few hundred miles away. It's the reward of dedication that one needs in order to feel the euphoria of summiting a mountain.

[@congruentcrib]

@@Foxyfreedom Ayy Sandwich! My brother lives out in Sandwich. I'm 40 minutes north east in Aurora. I've been on small mountains/ large hills in northern Wisconsin and Minnesota where i've gone skiing. I definitely feel different when I'm out there. Just feels welcoming, like home. That's one reason why I'd love to climb a mountain.

[@Foxyfreedom]

@@congruentcrib love aurora. Went to college there. Mount Shasta has weird roots in northern Illinois with Count saint Germaine and the weird religious cult associated. The mountain is incredible. I’ve done mount hood as well

[@jellybelly111]

perfectly summed up how disaster like this happen and how there are far too many people who have no business being up in that mountain

[@amonra3725]

I have had many near death experiences and I can attest that time suddenly goes into slow motion. That long fall probably turned into one long nightmare of slow motion terror for those poor people. I am very sorry this happened to them RIP to the young guide. Gone too soon.

[@danrosen3467]

My heart goes out to the climbers and their families. I hope that the Mt. Everest "I paid for a summit" mentality has not come to Mt. Shasta. I've climbed Mt. Shasta once (with fellow experienced climbers) and skied it once (solo) and the reality is: Only you can get yourself up and back safely. Employing a guide to lead the route and give you advice is one thing. Relying on a guide as a substitute for your own skill and judgment is taking a risk that you don't understand.

[@Anthony-GoAvsGo]

I grew up in Mt. Shasta City and i swear someone died every year on the mountain. I also remember an Air National Guard helicopter crashing on the mountain while either doing training or a rescue I cant remember.

[@donb6070]

We trained new climbers to instantly self arrest (practice, practice, practise), because if you have to think about what actions are needed after you've been pulled off balance and are falling, you won't have time to arrest the fall; you'll be in a freefall situation.

[@Kimberley-Z]

I agree with you 100 percent Don B, it does take practice, practice, practice on doing self arrests safely with the ice ax, from all sorts of positions, to the point that it is like second nature; that way, if a fall on snow and/or ice happens, the climber can perform the self arrest without having to think, they react correctly to the situation.

[@brucechristensen]

That's true, but you also have to be on a surface that allows arresting. On steep ice or steep soft snow, arrest is often impossible, no matter how practiced and quick you are. Those are "must not fall" places like Nick Meyers mentioned (or at least "must protect" places).

[@AMoose454]

I turned back from a solo summit bid this winter 600ft shy of the summit because of the steepest part of the trail and fresh snow was ahead of me. Easily a 3000ft drop. Turned back. Grabbed dinner. Came back in the summer.

[@lh3540]

Exactly. The one thing about mountains is they're not going anywhere.

[@miken1463]

No interest in summiting mountains I’d rather hike 20 miles around the mountain and enjoy all the flowers trees,meadows and streams. I’m also afraid of heights and hate getting altitude headaches. Not a fun day. I feel terrible about the people who died in the story. I was impressed by the guide that decided to turn around. He stuck to his expert judgement and was not persuaded by the client who knows nothing.

[@christopherpowell4773]

I don't mind going up mountains but know I definitely lack the skill to deal with ones that have ice on them so will just stick to the rocks for now or turn back.

[@aliensoup2420]

@@christopherpowell4773 I don't understand why anyone braves the cold, snow, and ice - and tons of equipment. It's an unpleasant experience all the way. I'll gladly take the summer sun in shorts and a light pack.

[@professorsogol5824]

Mt Shasta is 14,000 almost 200 feet high. The elevation at Shasta City is just a bit over 1000 feet. Most people coming from the lowlands will suffer a splitting headache or much worse if they attempt to climb the mountain in two days. No one mentioned altitude sickness or cerebral edema in the discussion here. How do the guide services help their clients adjust to the demands of high altitude before taking the clients up the mountain?

[@lh3540]

This. I'm a distance runner in metro Denver, I grew up at 10k feet, and I can definitely say for a fact I'm not acclimated to do this. This is me, running 40 miles a week in Denver. I'd want a good 2 months in one of the mining towns before attempting a 14'er. People roll up to Denver, want to go to Vail, start wheezing; these peaks are more than twice that elevation. You can get HACE if you're dumb about it.

[@aliensoup2420]

@@lh3540 People handle altitude differently, but I think you are exaggerating the risks. I live in LA near sea level. I've driven to Mt. Whitney and summited the next day with minor altitude affects. Same with Longs Peak. I was in my 50's and a terrible runner.

[@brycesmith4742]

Mount Shasta is actually the tallest mountain in California! Although Mt. Whitney is higher elevation, its vertical rise is significantly smaller relative to its base elevation.

[@benjamintryon813]

That doesn't make it taller, it just has more prominence.

[@MacawAviculture]

I have climbed four of the 14K foot peaks in Colorado, but these were climbed in August when there was no snow to deal with. I cannot imagine the pain and the loss that took place from this accident. We always need to remember the risks involved when taking on adventures of this magnitude. My last 14K climb was Mt. Elbert, the highest peak in CO at 14,440 ft. My dog and I started the climb on August 20 at 5:30am and we reached the summit at noon. On the descent back to our car, I noticed climbers with no backpacks, no water, and some wearing t-shirts, shorts, and tennis shoes. About 30 minutes from our car it began to snow, but since I was prepared with warm clothes and plenty of water I was not concerned. After moving to CO from the beaches in Southern CA, I have always thought that any visitor to CO should be required to watch a video of this risks involved while spending time in the high mountains. I worked as an assistant to the coroner for a brief period and saw the body of a neurologist from the East Coast that fell off a high cliff in Maroon Bells, near Aspen, CO. His body was discovered in the Spring, following his accident in the late Fall of the previous year. It really seems to be a sign of wisdom and intelligence, when non-experienced people listen to those with experience, no matter what the field of interest is. But when this field of interest can result in death or permanent injury, this wisdom and intelligence is essential.

[@mtadams2009]

It’s not the guides job to get you to the top of anything. It’s there job to get you home safely. Anyone who has spent any time in the mountains know that sometimes the mountain top has to wait. As Royal Robbins wrote many years ago “ don’t hesitate to turn around the mountain will always be there “. I feel bad for all those involved and especially the friends and family of the guide.

[@whoever6458]

I've always wanted to climb that mountain. I have family who grew up there and some are buried there.

[@chrisemerson7743]

Like they died on the mountain?

[@stupadasol5911]

Who Ever, same here, we might be related. I have family buried there also. Not on the mountain, but in the Mt. Shasta Cemetery. Two failed attempts on summiting, first for mountain sickness and the second for rapid change in the weather conditions. Won't happen for me in this lifetime.

[@whoever6458]

@@stupadasol5911 My grandpa is buried in that cemetery.

[@whoever6458]

@@chrisemerson7743 No. My grandpa is buried in the local cemetery.

[@stupadasol5911]

@@whoever6458 Same here as well as grandma, aunts, and uncles.

[@taitsmith8521]

The "problem " is that there are people who live this lifestyle, and there are tourists who sit in an office and have never had any real accomplishments in life, and erroneously believe that everything can be purchased. So, they have a sense of self entitlement because they paid a fee. That's "what went wrong"

[@domhaller]

People who don't grow up near mountains just have no idea how involved climbing a mountain is. They don't know what they don't know. A guide's job is not to feed your ego and get you to the top. A guide's job is to keep you safe. And sometimes, that means not going up in the first place or turning around halfway. You never ignore the weather, past, present, or future, when in the mountains.

[@paulmeyer4441]

I climbed Shasta. I've climbed a few other peaks in California and Colorado. No way would I ever rope in with anyone. I don't care how experienced they may be. Rest in peace.

[@rivernet62]

Agree. I’ve never understood the practice. Belayed climbing, yes. Dynamic? I don’t get it.

[@user-tm2kx7fe4y]

Sounds like you don’t have any buddies you trust. If you’re okay with no one helping you out of a crevasse or avalanche then so be it. Roping is for traversing crevasses and things you could get out of easier witb a buddy. It’s not for steep terrain where if one of you falls you’re both done for.

[@glennstanley2892]

Must have been exceptionally bad ice conditions. The area that they fell in would normally not require self arrest. In good snow conditions, it is pretty safe. I admit, I would consider myself a novice, but have summited Shasta maybe 5 times. The most dangerous attempt was a summer attempt. Rockfall during the summer can take you out unexpectedly. I would think about spring and go early in the morning while the snow is hard, but not ice. If too soft, again rockfall can be an issue. One year A friend and I ran from town to base camp at 2 in the morning (maybe 12 miles?), then then summited and climbed / ran back to town. Most tired I have ever been.

[@proteusmymphotography3358]

I have to say that the majority of injuries and deaths on Mt. Shasta happen when people break the rules, climbing ill prepared, failing to be in necessary physical condition, inexperience, underestimating the weather changes. I have witnessed white out blizzard conditions, hail, lightning, rain and sleet, sudden drop in temperature (35-45 degrees in minutes). People underestimate the climb and the zeal to summit overrules caution. I’ve looked into the full open eyes of deceased people. Amazing. Nobody’s home. Compound fractures at the boot due to crampon breaks and failure to arrest without putting a foot down. Mountaineering is awesome and worth a lot - If wisdom guides.

[@daleeikmeier3858]

I've climbed Mt Shasta several times by various routes. I always use a guide service and trust the guides to make the right call. If they say ,"Not today." then follow their advice. This accident does raise some questions about the short rope technique.

[@chrisemerson7743]

Wow there’s really some hateful comments on here today! People died, don’t you have anymore respect than that! Move along if you have nothing good to say!

[@Aspasia2929]

Park services should FLY over the mountain REGULARLY and AFTER EVERY STORM… then CLOSE the mountain to climbers accordingly. It may cost a bit more $$$ than AIR LIFTING injured climbers OR WORSE, but THE WORSE is priceless. I say this with all due respect, and as a monthly supporter of the National Parks Service, you people do a great job keeping our national treasures clean and safe; sometimes at risk of you’re own safety. Thank you for this!

[@davidtate166]

Wow a big beautiful mountain love to see it . hike around it and camp .

[@gingerleekretschmer2902]

I knew Jillian, and I am so saddened by her loss, and what happened that day. I appreciate the perspective in this video with inexperienced hikers climbing Shasta, and the huge risk that entails, but I do not like that this documentary in an undertone way blames Jillian. I know she knew what she was doing, with all her years guiding Shasta, assessing the risks, in addition to the fact that there were sadly so many other climbers falls that day. A big question is - what about climate change and what WE all are doing to cause these new unpredictable ice conditions, are we not all to blame? Finally, probably a tough question for this audience, would we have this same type of documentary reporting for a seasoned male guide - I doubt it. With respect, rest in peace, sweet mountain poppy, Jillian.

[@NewEarthAwakening]

Thank you for your comment. I definitely had the same question arise - whether a male guide would have received the same innuendo of blame.

[@4316rodney]

I know there’s a ton of sexism in mountaineering and climbing in general but I don’t agree that things would have been reported differently if the guide had been male. I’ve seen some pretty scathing reports of male lead accidents, basically if there’s an incident the guide is under a microscope. There’s so much missing technical information in this particular mini doc, witnesses, anchors, who fell first and where were they in the rope team…to me these things are necessary to learn as much as possible. Sometimes really shitty accidents happen to very experienced people but many times there was a technical or judgmental error that could have been avoided, regardless of gender.

[@LionheartedDan]

Excellent video - thank you for telling the story. An ancient proverb comes to mind: “A prudent person foresees danger and takes precautions. The simpleton goes blindly on and suffers the consequences.”. Proverbs 27:12

[@charliekezza]

Most people die ascending and the summit is only half way. Your guides/sherpas are there to keep you safe and alive to the bottom. Listen to them they have probably been up and down whatever mountain more time then you can count.

[@dannyho6786]

That raw ice aint no joke man!

[@morg52]

I summited Shasta twice, once in 1979 and again in 1980. Both times they were a cakewalk, Lucky, I guess. I did have some training (thirty five days) from a north cascades NOLS course back in 74. I had crampons, ice axe and various emergency supplies to weather a night on the mountain.

[@audibjornsson6107]

I don't know how many times I have to say this....IF YOU'RE PAYING A GUIDE YOU'RE NOT A MOUNTAINEER YOU'RE A TOURIST! Only a fool pays for his own death. Such ignorance and arrogance. They have no business being on mountains with out proper experience. They endanger so many rescuers lives!

[@JeremyJerry28]

How is someone supposed to gain experience without a guide?

[@audibjornsson6107]

@@JeremyJerry28 like I did! Starting small easy hikes training in survival skills. I've been hiking and Rick climbing since I was tiny with my dad and as much experience as I have I still would not go into the "death zone"

[@kriskline7559]

Easy there “death zone” guy. I climbed Shasta with a guide service and had plenty of experience beforehand. We warmed up with Mt Elbert, then Mt Massive, then Longs Peak, and then we drove to California and climbed Shasta with REI Adventures. They made the Shasta climb better as we personally had experience, but not on that mountain or on snow that steep. Shasta is not Everest so it doesn’t have a “death zone”. It simply requires people to be strong and careful. Personally I felt Shasta was easy as we had decent conditions and we summited this exact same route. In the morning (2-6 am) the snow was icy but we had multiple 5 person groups with strong climbers in the front and back, and the guides were very clear about how we needed to climb to minimize danger. The LA Times is sensationalizing this whole thing. The facts are mountaineers get hurt every season on all mountains.

[@jerryrichards8172]

I watched a climber loose it at the red banks and he slid out of control all the way down the shoot to where flairs out towards lake helen. He got unheart and start climbing.

[@wasabiginger6993]

What was Jillian thinking? She was an experienced mountaineer so it might be easy to say she should have turned back once hitting the icy conditions. However, it’s not always that easy … even if no pressure from clients to summit. Things can happen so unexpected, quickly especially at that elevation. We will never know what she was thinking … that ultimately and sadly took her own life. RIP … and happy that even tho short, she lived an awesome outdoor life!

[@kasondaleigh]

Well done. A good reminder.

[@fredfolson5355]

When I want to re-connect with the environment, I go on an ocean cruise. I'm not going to say "hey, let's go climb Pike's Peak, or Mt. Shasta."

[@lh3540]

Pikes Peak has the little cog train. A much better experience for noobs.

[@jellybelly111]

I think reconnect is maybe not what they want here. Some of these people want the bragging rights.

[@Handlesarestupid702]

Great video. Hopefully it opens some weekend warriors eyes.

[@jonathanroberts-bj7yl]

That is a long dormant volcano.

[@murphyshsu]

Sobering. Rest In Peace.

[@marcmaza2821]

I do a lot mountain biking one of the things during Covid people were out hiking using trailforks or other apps! If your gonna go hiking or riding you need to be prepared of certain location! Gotta remember where your going! People just show up but your looking at the map wrong! So annoying!

[@stihlnz]

Except for glacier travel ..If you're roped up you must have a belay or you're putting everyone at risk. Roping more than 3 is hugely problematic as you cannot stop a fall if multiple people fall they will take everyone with them. Super hard ice or black ice can defeat any crampon purchase and prevent you cutting good steps ... go home.

[@Kimberley-Z]

I agree with you 100 percent Tom, those are excellent safety topics to keep in mind in that situation.

[@seasonti8312]

a running snow belay

[@bluehedgehog123]

WOW 😮

[@DM-hw4cr]

We're they aware it was icy while going up? And why did they proceed?

[@Skyy_415]

bad decision making at the end of the day. Also , clients wrent profficient at self arresting technique

[@4316rodney]

Just for learning purposes I wonder if protection was set up…anchors of any kind? I’m assuming they were roped up? Maybe I’ll search for the incident report…anyone have a link?

[@4316rodney]

I found out a little more: They were short roped. The guy in the party tried arresting but couldn’t get his axe to bite until they were sliding really fast and the axe was ripped right out of his hands. The old school book calls for tethering your axe to your harness but I believe nobody does it these days because the tether is a total pain in the ass to move with. If he had taken that precaution there’s a chance this fatality could have been avoided.

[@Aspasia2929]

Such a TRAGEDY! Especially since this is the FIRST time I’ve seen a video of NOVICE climbers who were DOING IT responsibly rather than trying to climb Everest!

[@breathe.move.perform.health]

Very unfortunate.....the physiology at that altitude is not the guide's responsibility; when the shift occurs decisions and use of skills diminishes perhaps contributing to the awful price one pays in high mountain adventures. Sad for the loss. Thanks for this

[@roottv8417]

Damn I thought was going be about the avalanche but I never heard about this

[@SF-fb6lv]

The tone seems a little like "you shouldn't have to hire a guide". I think it's always a good idea to have a guide.

[@Kimberley-Z]

These are excellent points Francie. If climbers are going to hire a guide, they need to ask the tough questions; what are your qualifications, competence and experience?

[@Frodonia62]

The climbing rangers are amazing

[@RukiDance]

LA times ultimate nanny staters

[@keitasalmon6485]

we know exactly what happened. She made a mistake of roping up with two beginners in bad conditions and forcing up when they should've turned around. Avalanche gulch is a beginner route. There should not be a fatality on that route unless the conditions are terrible, and roped to beginners who can fall and drag you down to your death, which is what happened.

[@garybalanesi610]

Respect the mountain..be Cautious. Ice under snow is nasty... couple elevation to that= danger.. Ive been to lake helen..

[@victorlui5955]

Hi Nick Meyers. Nick Meyers has a cool moustache. 😊🍻🍺

[@PInk77W1]

I have never climbed Mt Shasta I have always wanted to. Had no idea it was that dangerous. Maybe august is warmer and safer ?

[@Jack-mf5lw]

Make sure you start easy, maybe climbing a mountain can wait if it's your first time mountaineering, in the meantime go for a few less technical hikes

[@lh3540]

Warmth isn't the issue. HACE is. You can get brain or lung embolisms if you try to do this without training and acclimating.

[@MrFg1980]

How much experience walking in crampons the clients had is secondary to who slipped first. I'm usually traveling solo and I love the fact that I'm not going to get yanked off my feet and have to self arrest me and two other people.

[@mysticalmisty28]

I live at the foot of Mt Shasta

[@rippinaroundeverywhere9249]

Can I come live with you...lol..

[@dougdavis8986]

The mountain has feet?

[@monicascott2354]

My hubby was born in Mt. Shasta. He climbed it with his mom and brother in 1995 (or so). Stunning country. I named our black Lab, Siskiyou!

[@IncogNito-gg6uh]

I nominate this video for "Comments turned off." Edit, several days later: I suggested that because of a few of the first thoughtless comments made. There have been a lot of good and thoughtful comments since then.

[@MrIsomer]

Have only hiked the Avi Bowl at Shasta in powder conditions. Never got as high up as the Heart - much less the Red Banks. Looks very steep in that section. Too bad one of them blew it. Tragic outcome.

[@norml.hugh-mann]

Wow, blowing it on Mt Shasta surely led to a sore jaw

[@davidtate166]

I climbed longes peck.3 times the key hole route..it is a climb class 3 some class 4 acent .dont take it lightly. Training climb in winter north face .🤙

[@lh3540]

I feel like climbing 14k'ers has become some ill advised influencer badge of honor. We're getting a lot of deaths out here in CO.

[@mrnobody3161]

Temperature and Gravity don't care about your experience or inexperience. I have wilderness survival training. The second I saw glazed ice on top of snow, I would have pulled the plug. Glazed ice on snow creates unpredictability. No amount of experience or "belief " in ones ability can alter the risk when it comes to ice.

[@SPOOKYUNGIN_777]

I thought that was just a soda name😂

[@energyvampire1672]

Am all about safety even if I fully paid the guide and we only get half way, that would be ok with me I rather quit ahead then something horrible happening we can always try again. But so people say am gonna get my money wroth and just don't know when to call it quits... and some things you just can't predict at all. This is why I don't mess with the ocean or nature know your limits. Sorry this happen to anyone and hopefully your doing ok.

[@NASkeywest]

I am a very experienced hiker. I am in good shape and climb like a monkey since I was a kid. That being said, hiking terrain and mountains like this with snow and at elevation…is just different and dangerous in other ways I would not feel comfortable climbing with out training, proper gear, experience, etc.

[@jizim8947]

And it was ALL her fault. She shouldn't have just taken their money and should've made sure they were able. At least it wasn't just her clients that died.

[@billbally4419]

What an uplifting video. The host was so lively and energetic.

[@doglady9334]

I am sooo against ameatures being allowed to hire a guide to the top of anything. You should be required to have a baseline of experience, different for everything, determined by difficulty. I climbed a big wall with a guy i was dating once and a buddy of his. They seemed to think they were planning on doing Everest, and based on our climb, I commented that I didn't think they were in the category of those the caliber who should be attempting a climb like that. It quickly lead to me no longer dating this guy, which was fine by me. I recognize my limitations. I am very aware of when the risk exceeds my ability. I cannot fathom how some refuse to accept what their skill set is, and when they will put someone else in danger.

[@dougdavis8986]

Politicians should require prerequisites too but that's not going to happen.

[@Kimberley-Z]

I agree with you Dog Lady on your points. I have been a rock climber and a mountaineer for many years, it is always best to be realistic about one’s limitations and avoid climbing peaks that are way above one’s abilities and experience. It’s also really important to climb with climbers that have the qualifications, competence and experience.

[@gixellia8455]

So sorry. The risk to lose your life comes with all risky sports, though.

[@paulyricca3881]

👴🏻U NEED A GIRL AND A JOB

[@Kimberley-Z]

There is an old saying: that which is most certain is nothing is certain.

[@paulyricca3881]

@@Kimberley-Z 👴🏻 NIKKI SIXX AND DAVID COVERDALE TICKET IN 24 VOTE MAKE AMERICA GLAM ROCK AGAIN. 🧔🏿YO MOTHER LOOK LIKE RONDO HATTON.

[@paulyricca3881]

@@Kimberley-Z 👴🏻YO MOTHER LOOK LIKE RONDO HATTON.

[@paulyricca3881]

@@Kimberley-Z 👴🏻IM PREGNANT

[@rainshadows7086]

mountaineering requires physical, technical and intellectual skills. people should learn about the first ascent of the Matterhorn. its the best way to know if you are ready or not for a real alpine climb.

[@ChristinaHills]

Did the couple live?

[@ArkansasGamer]

Holy shit

[@misterfunnybones]

An experienced guide can only slightly raise the safety & knowledge rating of a novice team, especially when conditions are not ideal. Two other climbers rescued that same day didn't even have crampons!?