STOP AERATING YOUR LAWN. How to and when you need to aerate. The TRUTH from an EXPERT

Do I need to aerate my lawn every year? Is it good to aerate the lawn in the spring? Do I need to Aerate in the fall? When is the best time of year to aerate? Is Lawn core aeration good? In this video we unearth the answers to these questions. By definition, aeration is a naturally occurring event in biology. In terms of Lawncare, it often means mechanical intervention.
The benefits of aeration are as follows: increased airflow to the root zone, increased potential for root mass, a decrease in compaction of the soil.
The most common form of compaction of the soil is going to be through heavy traffic. This may be caused by heavy foot traffic, heavy machinery, or various other practices that would be considered outside the realm of residential lawn wear and tear.
Generally speaking, heavy clay soils will have the most potential to become compacted overtime but compaction isn't exclusive to clay . Having a good fertility program and making sure that your grass is healthy and well tended, with a focus on a strong root system will do more than any mechanical aerator can. If you are taking the time year over a year to run an aerator across your lawn, you need to evaluate how you are treating your lawn the rest of the time and what you could be doing differently to prevent future compaction issues.
heavily compacted soil will lead to greater costs over time. The need for increased fertilizer and water will begin to add up as root growth is hindered. stunted, thin turf can be a sign of compaction if all other practices are being followed.
too much mechanical aeration can be as detrimental or even more damaging than none at all.
Stay to the end of the video for spring feeding tips. You may not want to fertilize heavy in the early spring….
Contact: [e-mail]
Website: www.lawncology.com
Fertilizers and soil ammendments that is use: www.greenecountyfert.com/diy/
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• Air-8 Liquid Aeration ...
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• Air-8 Liquid Aeration ...

[@stepheneckert4006]

I’ve aerated once when I first moved in and never plan on doing it again. Such a miserable experience.

[@Lawncology]

This is a common response for many.

[@LawnsAcrossAmerica]

You didn't enjoy the butt kickin?? 😂😂😂

[@wcbscout]

Spike aeration is the only way to go, problem is rental companies generally only let core aerators. Unless you are trying to change soil composition core aeration is not as beneficial as spike aeration for both the grass and the human doing the work.

[@justadbeer]

@@wcbscout - That's completely backwards. Spike aeration actually compacts more by simply pushing thatch down and to the sides, whereas plug aeration removes plugs to not only allow water and nutrients to get into the lawn, but also removes thatch plugs thus reducing compaction, which is pretty much the whole idea of aeration. Granted a rented walk behind core aerator will absolutely kick your butt and you will fell like you just went ten rounds with a heavyweight champ the next day (which is why I paid someone else to do it after I tried it once), But I now have acreage and use a tow behind, so problem solved. I think spikes can be useful, but only for short term results

[@raftonpounder6696]

Yep. I did it last spring and never again!

[@ErikSands]

You’re really helping me connect more dots with these videos. While it probably seems obvious that letting roots drive their way down helps a lot here, I don’t know if it’d be so obvious had you not mentioned it. Thanks once again for reiterating yet another reason why we don’t want that nitrogen hit too soon. Seeing that pumpkin getting crushed somehow brought old memories of Gallagher whacking melons with the sledge-o-matic.

[@Lawncology]

Ah yes. The splash zone!

[@grass-patch]

The new presentation is refreshing. Well done John. As for me, a dose of leftover 8-1-8 and RGS during Spring is my Goldilocks approach to transition from winter. No core aeration needed here. Seems to work fine. Looking forward to more content. Thanks. ~ mike

[@Lawncology]

Right on!

[@user-tb2wz1tr8y]

I've been on my current property for three years now. Never aerated and am unsure if the previous owner ever did. Ive debated whether to do it or not for a while. I've done the screwdriver trick several times and no real issues there. Basically, Im leaning toward your advice. My father always had a beautiful lawn. The only extra thing was to dethatch it, which I do as well. Other than that, regular and proper cutting and fertilizing. I'm doing the same and the lawn is far better than when I moved here. My only concern is I would like a little better success with overseeding. Great video here and about to become a new subscriber.

[@andrewphillips8198]

Great video. I just did my soil test about a month ago and the soil probe went in easy maybe 50% of the time and I did irrigate a few days before doing the test. I have for last 3 years been mowing 2 to 3 days a week , watering and feeding per Alan’s schedule using some of your products like Air-8, RGS, Humic12 and GreenePop to name a few 😄. I also add a fair amount of Carbon as well. But my soil is the black hard clay when dry LOL. My grass has looked great given the state of the clay but when inspecting the plug from the probe I still don’t see long enough root growth. My soil has gotten much better but I suspect deep down I need to give it one try at core aeration THIS year before I level/top dress. I like the advice you give John and this year definitely will let the grass natively green up as much as possible before adding any Nitrogen to aid in root growth and only apply non-fert products until true go time 😛. Thanks for the informative video.

[@Lawncology]

Do it if the benefit is there.

[@FarideLadak]

Love the advice of letting the roots develop and let it do the work on its own. So I’ve restrained from putting anything down so far. We’ve been getting a great deal of rain and had more heavier snowfalls this past winter. Let’s see how that may help the lawn.

[@Lawncology]

Nice. If you haven’t subbed, I have a follow up on this video dropping tomorrow

[@delrayharris6583]

In Wisconsin we have

[@roberts2642]

I've got clay soil and have been having problems with my lawn. I've concluded I really need to be dedicated to core aeration followed by a compost dressing in September (maybe some overseeding here and there) and a good liquid aeration in the spring.

[@TheLawnShark]

Stressing the lawn is probably the single most important thing you can do in my opinion. Overwatering is one of the biggest things I see in my area and it shows in the weak plants. Thanks for all the great advice.

[@Lawncology]

Yeah man. I see that here a ton too. Not so much in PC, but in the north and south valleys.

[@JeLifeCoach]

Can you elaborate more on stressing the lawn? Im new to all this so just now learning. Thank you.

[@daza2020]

Love these new clips JP ❤️ keep ‘em coming 🇦🇺

[@Lawncology]

Thank you. Trying to keep them short and meaningful.

[@scottgieringer8589]

Always great content jp hope everyone is safe and well

[@Lawncology]

Thanks scott. All are healthy and happy here, hope You are as well

[@staggist]

I simply cover the soil with good compost and worms travel to and from the surface aerating the lawn has never failed

[@paulscott6998]

I really like Greene County products. I use them all. Some of the most satisfying parts of lawn care are top dressing using a roller spreader. Doing this for a few years a couple times a year. After this I’ve been able to use a dethatcher at low setting to get oxygen down into the roots. I’ve found after doing a dethatch, the fertilizer and biostimulants work better. Also, my watering seems to be more effective. In the beginning, I would plug aerate and follow up by top dressing using black kow mixed with peat. Other than right before a dethatch my tttf is kept around 3.5 inches to 4.5 inches during heat. We’re all just caretakers of the land. Someday, someone will inherit my stand of turf and I hope they’re able to appreciate having soil so rich!

[@tycox8704]

The lawn maintenance crew at the agrochemical company I worked at never aerated the turf. They only aerated around trees. The turf was never walked on. Instead, they applied a growth regulator that stunted the growth of the blades, but concentrated the growth process in the roots.

[@mikeb1039]

Growth regulators are the absolute worst thing you can do to soil chemistry. Sorry but your team was clueless twits.

[@joeyjojo5]

This is really helpful perspective, thanks for posting

[@Lawncology]

You’re welcome

[@greggkathy1892]

I like the idea of delaying fertilizing in the spring. Here in Central Indiana, I put down a November and December feeding in my lawn looks better than it has in 17 years and I still have yet to put anything on it this spring.

[@Lawncology]

This year my main lawn is on the wait list to fertilize. I’m going to see how long I can delay it until the color or growth gasses out. Did a heavy feeding late October

[@greggkathy1892]

@@Lawncology my lawn is 80,000 ft.². I’m sure you are familiar with Ryan who just built the barn dominium. He is now feeling my pain. Oh to have a postage stamp size yard again! Lol! I wouldn’t trade this for anything though.

[@audigex]

My lawn is clay and if I don't aerate I rapidly get bare patches where the clay compacts underfoot, even in low traffic areas. I agree that it doesn't make sense for everyone, but if you have clay it's a massively important part of ongoing maintenance. Although I'd add that it's important to replace the removed cores with organic material, sand, silt etc to try to improve the clay over time

[@Lawncology]

Yes. That was definitely stated in the video.

[@SuperHooverdam]

Have you tried humichar? I live where sod is usually put over clay or chirt and no one ever pays for soil to be places down over the clay. So now I’m at a location that has great grass but Clay bottom and I’ve read great reviews about using it as well as molasses..

[@mrBDeye]

After aeration of your lawn with clay soil, do you pick up the cores or leave them? I would suggest picking up. If you leave them, this could be the reason you have bare spots. A riding mower or person walking will smash the clay cores killing grass in certain places. It happened to my neighbor.

[@dtitimanu]

Do you use a core aerator or the spike ones?

[@audigex]

@@dtitimanu I use a Swardman hollow tine core aerator

[@arifdenk5033]

Thank you for very important info I always tought that every year we need airation thanks a lot

[@timborski1210]

Did it once last year, I'll prolly do it every other year or 2. I use Air-8 and other liquids along with my fert program. I did notice the yard felt better once I did a core aeration when I walked on it.

[@Lawncology]

You should always be the judge of the need. It’s easy to get stuck in routine and just simply watching how your grass grows and your ground feels makes every decision more purposeful.

[@angelf9800]

You must have the best lawn and best looking truck AT4 on the block, very nice 👍🏻

[@johnheimel5594]

North Texas clay soil here, and I have never core aerated. When I first bought this place about 7 years ago, the dirt was as hard as a brick and you could not get a spade in the ground even by jumping on it. You can do it with one arm now. Regular use of Air8 and RGS has made a huge difference in soil tension and compaction for me, and the composition has also changed dramatically.

[@Lawncology]

That’s awesome

[@mytruthslays1303]

Exactly. What he is saying is the exact opposite to the many I have known who air8, especially in Texas.

[@MrsWhite-jt1gw]

What's RGS?

[@jordannarlock7995]

2 questions for ya or requests. 1. More Hudson Star content this year? 2. For us bent guys, can you do a detailed fungicide regiment through the year? We talked on IG over winter, and really curious to see some more in depth information on the Hudson Star and getting hands on them. Thanks!!

[@29Turf]

Another great quick hit! Thanks, JP!

[@Lawncology]

Thank you buddy!!! BTW- your tags will be going on my new machine. I’ll be sure you have a pic when it happens

[@29Turf]

@@Lawncology awesome, let me know if they don't release good and I will get you some more.

[@UrbanDadLawnAndGarden]

Haven't aerated my lawn for 6 years and I can push a piece.of rebar 8 inches into the soil easily everywhere....until this changes I'll stick with the air 8....nice video JP

[@Lawncology]

That’s the ticket right there

[@joekoz3815]

Great advice, aeration of home lawns is a waste of time and money. I ran high end golf courses for 35 years and we needed to aerate compact traffic areas like tees/greens. Good to see some honesty from a lawn care guy.

[@Lawncology]

Thank you

[@gregpayton6935]

If you live in the south and have red clay you'd be incorrect.

[@restorick2378]

I tried a liquid aeration product last year on my heavy clay soil. Seemed to help significantly. I'll be incorporating a little sand this year to help with leveling. Hoping that will help me get a little more drainage while still promoting root growth.

[@Lawncology]

Very cool

[@tomfinn6579]

It seems like soft sand plus hard clay will give you something in the middle but it will actually make the clay into cement. Don’t do it

[@MelJohnson56]

@@tomfinn6579 Not true especially if you plug aerate first and add compost a month later and keep it watered. The sand filled cores will absorb water faster.

[@GirLzLawn]

Excellent. Very helpful. I was against mechanical aeration because I think it is the root cause of my Poa Triv issue, but my soil is so compacted that I have to get aeration this Spring.

[@Lawncology]

Poa sucks. Be strong on your pre M game in the fall.

[@GirLzLawn]

@@Lawncology If only it was Poa A and not T.

[@Lawncology]

@@GirLzLawn well shit 😂

[@GirLzLawn]

@@Lawncology 🤣😂 Exactly!

[@garypreman6298]

Most lawns (at least in the northeast) have only a couple of inches of top soil over clay. The aerators barely reach the clay layer. Use garden gypsum for aeration which will brake up the clay as well.

[@Frank-ig2js]

FINALLY! Someone who knows the truth about aeration! More macro and micro nutrients, CORRECT irrigation and PROPER mowing is all you need. Feed the soil and the turf will take care of itself ( technically speaking). Thank you for this video!

[@Lawncology]

Thanks frank

[@Frank-ig2js]

You are certainly welcome sir!

[@edrumsas5420]

Good info to think about. I use RGS in the spring. Seems to work for me.

[@Lawncology]

It’s a staple of a greater industry. I’d say more pros use that than anything else we make.

[@AJ-ku7nm]

Old lawn with heavy compaction and clay soil in the U.K. Approx 400 square meters. Planing on hollow tine aeration in the spring. Wish me luck.

[@Lawncology]

You got this

[@mtb7018]

As usual, JP is on 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥

[@Lawncology]

Thanks boss

[@WinstonBhagirath]

this made so much sense to me thank you... save me a bunch of money and i didnt even switch to geico

[@Lawncology]

Lol. Glad to hear it!!!

[@ColeSpolaric]

I need aeration bad. Backyard is hard packed clay. Anything will slide in easily right now though because we had a decent amount of snow slowly work it's way into the ground and it's pretty wet. And now the utility is running new lines. 7 large holes dug in my yard, mini ex that compacted what they didn't dig up. Mounds where they dug up and filled in. They really have f'd my yard up. I'll have to send you a video. I took one today, but I wasn't in frame and then I messed up the gimbal mode and it was doing funky things

[@Lawncology]

Might as well get it knocked out!

[@AnthonyDibiaseIdeas]

Thank you for the honest info.

[@Lawncology]

Glad it was helpful!

[@drewcamp2290]

I ended up aerating my lawn last season and it was a terrible decision. Listening to a few lawn gurus, I didn't pick up my cores because "they'll break down and return that precious soil back to the lawn." Now my lawn is ridiculously bumpy; my mower jumps all over the place constantly when running it. Will likely end up having to do a full leveling job if I ever want to fix it now.

[@Lawncology]

For 99% of people, it’s a waste of time.

[@TheDylan6908]

Good info John. Thank you

[@Lawncology]

Thank you for watching!

[@butchgreene]

I have red clay, huge trees and deep shade in Asheville, NC. I've managed to get grass to grow in my solid red clay brick yard, but have had to spend a TON on deep shade grass in small bags. It's not cheap, but grows good. It won't penetrate and sprout without me running the aerator like crazy and then it only grows out of the aeration holes. Made the mistake of getting a big bucket of "topsoil". It basically let me level off the holes but my punishment was some form of spidery weed that explodes across the ground and I've spent the better part of a year chasing and eliminating it. Finally have it green thanks to fertilizers and 3 separate aerations with a machine. But the parts that refuse to grow are under all the big shade trees on the sloped portions of the yard. I assume it's from the trees pulling all the water out of the soil.

[@MrsWhite-jt1gw]

Grass will grow and take hold like fire the minute you give up and cover the area with landscape rocks😂

[@NorthlanderMN]

I seeded clover into my lawn. It was so dry last summer in Minnesota. I’m done with having a perfect lawn.

[@Lawncology]

Nothing wrong with that. I e seen some beautiful microclover lawns

[@chroniclesofnanner9543]

Dethatched and aerated in the fall then fertilized right after, holy smokes did the yard look so much better after. I also put a light coat of sand and peat moss on top.

[@AnonymousGameWarden]

Do you leave the cores? Or pick them up

[@chroniclesofnanner9543]

@@AnonymousGameWarden that year I left the cores. They took forever to break down because of lack of rain. This last year I picked the cores up and was way happier

[@brianwhitney9181]

Hi, I would appreciate a video on the benifits of a reel mower over rotary mower for the health of my grass. I will be going over to reel mower this Spring using an Allett product that I just received. Keep the videos coming much appreciated.

[@Lawncology]

Reel mowing is fun, great cuts and the lower you go, the less likely you will see weeds,

[@brianwhitney9181]

@@Lawncology Thank you for the reply, while on the subject of grass height what should I set my cut depth at the first time so I do not shock the grass. I live in a cold zone if that matters.

[@Lawncology]

@@brianwhitney9181 take it down slow. I think I have a video on that… if your normal cut height is 2”, do 1.5 then 1 and then 3/4. I’m assuming you have grass that can support this

[@brianwhitney9181]

@@Lawncology Hi, yes my grass can support same., my usual cutting height when I used the rotary mower was 1.5 so I will start with the maximum height setting then over time reduce the height watching of course the grasses reaction to same. I also would mention I have the scarifier cartridge from Allett which I will be using this Spring for the first time and wondered should I wait till the grass has greened up enough before using same.

[@johnkaneiii9167]

Johnny, I haven't Aerated in years Just throw down air 8 and RGS and everything will be OK. My lawn is beautiful from all your products!!👍👍

[@Lawncology]

Jonny Kane! So good to hear from you! How's life?

[@johnkaneiii9167]

@@Lawncology hey buddy everything's great I'm just so busy all the time, I need a vacation 👍👍😂🤣

[@duke3039]

Good info. If the recommendation is to "stress" the lawn, then when do I apply pre-emergent to reduce crabgrass that is high in Nitrogen?

[@Lawncology]

This is why I personally don’t like combo fert/chem, you lose some control. It’s not the end of the world if you can’t follow that process, it’s just a suggestion for another year of you can’t do it now

[@vader3254]

Thanks for all the great info! It’s helped so much throughout the years. My lawn is extremely deficient in Boron What is your advice for the best way to raise it? Thanks again!

[@Lawncology]

You’d be best served to get a micro pack with boron in it. B is needed in such low amounts per acre that you can easily put too much out of trying something like sodium borate.

[@vader3254]

@@Lawncology great thank you! Any specific product that you would recommend?

[@Lawncology]

@@vader3254 if you’ve got any turf supply stores locally, ask there first. If not, we have boron in MicroGreene.

[@vader3254]

@@Lawncology 👍🏻. I will order some Microgreene

[@FarideLadak]

I had core aeration done last year. Let’s see what if any improvement (s) it may help with.

[@Lawncology]

I’ve got a vid coming out you’ll want to see

[@nealestep11]

So I mentioned a while back in your backyard oasis video that I had an in ground pool removed, filled in and the whole yard regraded last fall. That being said there was a 20k lbs excavator and a skid steer running around the yard especially down the side yard to get fill dirt about 10,000 times. I was thinking it might be in my best interest to aerate this spring do you agree? Thanks Mr. Perry, loving the videos this spring!

[@Lawncology]

I would think so, you may want to consider some topdressing material for the next couple seasons as well

[@nealestep11]

Definitely, I’m in SE Michigan and coming out of the winter I am noticing settling and top dressing is top of my list this spring.

[@fadetoblack51]

I bought a pull behind aerator from Home Depot for about $250. A one time cost and minimal effort each year. I hook it up to the John Deere and drive around with a beer in one hand. Does it help? No idea, but it doesn't hurt...

[@Lawncology]

If it feels good do it, especially if it’s an excuse to drink beer

[@sambutera3898]

This guy is one of the best . It’s like drop the Mic.

[@Lawncology]

Thanks Sam

[@sambutera3898]

You’re welcome and did I mention that I only use your liquid fertilizer

[@Lawncology]

@@sambutera3898 thank you an extra time then!!

[@williamhahn265]

it's been my experience that when soil dries out in the summer is when it gets compacted. I don't have any machinery on my lawn but it gets very compacted and hydrophobic in summer when we get dry spells

[@Lawncology]

Dry soil is the devil. It should never be allowed to fully dry.

[@ourpresidentswallows6017]

Soil compacts when it’s soaked with water and you mow on it with heavy machines not dry

[@remmingtonsteele2562]

Absolutely spot on !

[@Lawncology]

Thank you

[@terryduerks4008]

we have a horse pasture the grass is natrual grasses and the horses have eaten it down in spots not to the dirt just quite short and some weeds and quake grass is growing in. should i aerating it this spring ?

[@sensfreak09]

My grass last year stop growing lots of dead spots always dry. I live in ontario canada. I did water it everyday and nothing even added fresh earth and seeding it. Not knowing what your doing is pretty much guessing at this point i don't know where to start this year and figure out how to make my lawn grow and look very nice.

[@peterc8979]

Great content!

[@Lawncology]

Thank you

[@johnblagg7021]

Hello my soil is chalk. I feed ,water and cut my lawn. I bought a aerator and scarifier. The aerator ripped the long grass out. Frightened to use on rest of lawn. Tried to put spade in lawn.(to take sample to see if have thatch) Impossible too hard. I thought about using scarifier on high setting and see how it goes. Maybe use aerator after. Can you advise please

[@winstonian88]

Love your channel. But so many times I’m asking myself, has this or that claim actually been tested? Like how do we know that feeding top growth in the spring inhibits root growth? Is that theoretical or has someone actually tested it? Maybe spring fertilizer drives both. After all, top growth means leaves, which means chlorophyll, which means sugar, which is vital to all metabolic systems, including root growth. I don’t know of course,

[@bucky5063]

Great info, aerating also brings the last guys weed seeds

[@Lawncology]

Thank you

[@davidspice3383]

Nice job.

[@DrMonkPhD]

Depends on the soil composition. Over time, the clay soil will settle and compact regardless of foot traffic / machinery. Snow, heavy rain, etc will cause it to shift. Let's say, you have 40x40 yard, with 12 inches of snow on top of it. Since fresh snow can weigh about 5 pounds per cubic foot. Total Weight=1600 sq ft×5 lbs/sq ft=8000 lbs You have 8,000lbs on top of your soil. The only way to stop this from happening is changing the chemistry of the soil itself by diluting the 'clay' with something more towards clay loam. @4:37, that might be a way to measure compaction, but you should really get readings by getting a penetrometer. Ideally should be about 200PSI.

[@Lawncology]

Yes for sure and, the overall care of the turf is of upmost importance. For instance, my soils is predominantly clay. I receive about 15’ or so of snow and it will settle about 3-4’ deep in the lawn area plus drifting. The root structure is so deep and keep everything flowing and loose. If however the ground were to dry out completely, it would be as hard as a rock and take quite some patience to reset the system.

[@phillayfield7858]

To stress the turf a smidge early spring would an application of RGS help to get the roots going deep? I've been using the Bio stims for about a year and its never looked better. Trying to decide when to start it up for this year.

[@Lawncology]

I usually start companies on .6lbs N and RGS for their first fertility.

[@rushmuzik]

What Bio stims are you using???

[@StephaneDurand]

Thanks John!!! Great info again 👍 Any new for us in Canada... Are we going to be able to buy your products in Canada this season? 🤞🤞🤞

[@Lawncology]

Hey buddy! Pandemic squashed my Canada goals. I’ll rekindle that flame and see what’s possible.

[@StephaneDurand]

@@Lawncology Thanks man! I understand. I hope you will be able this year ;). I forgot to send you the pictures of my lawn after we spoke last fall but I will find them for you to see. Have a great day John!!!

[@garyp1930]

Great !! Thank You !!

[@Lawncology]

If you haven’t subbed, you might want to. I have a follow up on this posting tomorrow

[@mattcunningham5613]

Are you planning on shipping to the UK soon? We have nothing like your products over here really

[@Lawncology]

Hey Matt, great question. With all that’s happened the last two years, we’ve not looked at going over seas. Perhaps that will change soon.

[@rubenbarrera7338]

Great channel. New fan! My lawn is full of weeds and dry. Should do aeration to my lawn? My lawn cutter is quoting me $480. Not sure if that's a good price. 😅😅

[@Lawncology]

Aeration’s are expensive. You’d have to decide if you want to do it yourself for about 75.00 for the rental or not. Sounds like you need to kill the weeds, water properly and maybe get some more grass seed out there to fill in

[@rubenbarrera7338]

@@Lawncology I'll be honest, I'm a new home owner so I didn't even know I had to water my grass so often. Lol So it's been like 2 years of it slowly dying away and me wondering what happen. Lol So should I postpone my aeration till I start watering more often? Thanks!

[@foxtrotproject]

With heavy clay deposits, would it makes sense to aerate and top dress for a few years to improve overall soil composition? I’m doing the best I can with the other vectors of lawn care.

[@Lawncology]

It wouldn’t hurt.

[@beachday4439]

Will aerating packed bare clay dirt then raking in good soil into the holes help turn clay into usable soil? It's a idea i want to try but don't want to spend money on if it won't work.

[@Lawncology]

Clay is usable soil but yes if you want to reaggregate it, that’s a good options

[@GW._.]

I aerated to remove clay and replace with sand after 5 years of doing that twice a year I no longer need to I will possibly aerate every three years now going forward.

[@longdongsilver1255]

Its also good to use a fracture tiner

[@E.ElderGilbert]

Question On a Bermuda lawn will 5-0-31 fertilizer hurt the root growth if used in March?

[@Lawncology]

I don’t see why it would. Your roots will come on a little later.

[@alphamale3141]

My lawn is a mix of Kentucky blue grass and tall fescue. I live in central Maryland. Am I stressing the lawn properly if I wait until Memorial Day to initially fertilize with a mixture of Milorganite and 10-10-10 fertilizer?

[@Lawncology]

You should feed when the lawn looks like it needs it. There’s no simple answer to that question. Depending on your winter, when your spring growth stage ends, moisture, sunlight, and overall lawn density, you may want to feed earlier or later. For myself, o was well into June on a bluegrass lawn before first feeding last year. In years passed, I’ve feed in April or May. It all comes down to the look and if the turf is where you think it should be.

[@dllanzy]

I find the when you overseed it works better when I aerate before

[@Lawncology]

It’s pretty common to do it that way. People have had great success with aerating as well, it just depends on if the seed is covered

[@dllanzy]

@@Lawncology yup, seems to grow better when it goes into the holes. Also, are you still doing soil test Analysis? Waiting to get my results

[@jong9593]

I have orange clay in central Texas. And when it rains or my irrigation system turns on. Theres a solid size patch that pools up water bad! Worried that if I attempt to aerate the soil I’ll puncture or break the irrigation lines underground

[@MrsWhite-jt1gw]

I'm here too: a neighbor had someone with a jackhammer break up the limestone rock bed that sits only inches under our central Texas so-called soil. They remove it, and break it up into shards and try to sell it off as free gravel. But your pooling issue is solved then and you fill with clean dirt (huh?) replacing the volume. I have not done this yet. Too many tree roots.

[@boxsterbenz4059]

any ideas on "top dressing mixing in seed" in the spring?

[@Lawncology]

You can add seed

[@Ebiru2387]

I am about to overseed my lawn. Is it appropriate to mix that with a starting fertilizer, even over existing grass?

[@Lawncology]

Fertilizer always helps

[@bradygaming5034]

That crushed pumpkin looked like it was shooting out cheetoes😂

[@Lawncology]

I found it to be delightfully gross

[@wackydan74]

Love the Japanese safety boots @ 2:18

[@Comeoffitman]

I bout a aerosol compactor to get the component out off the soil to let it breathe and make it roots better on it and better grass and stuff on it

[@Ms-cj8ul]

Is it ideal to aerate in the summer, when the temperature is over 95 degrees?

[@Ryush806]

Any thoughts on aeration to provide a shortcut for phosphorus to get down into the root zone? I’m abysmally low in phosphorus (and potassium). LSU grass professor recommended aerating and throwing down a pound of each twice a year until corrected but it’s SOOO much work 🥵

[@Lawncology]

Aeration for compaction, fertilizer for deficiencies. 2lbs of each isn’t terribly low, it’s just on the low side. Follow the directions and get it down.

[@mikehixon66]

When are the final results from UG study of core aeration vs. Biostims be available?

[@Lawncology]

We just got raw data back for year two plus a look a carbon efflux. Pretty interesting to see the soil respiration increase. Also, it has never been a this vs that conversation except from the naysayers. Both have benefits and drawbacks. I will have time after the spring rush to break it all down into charts.

[@mikehixon66]

@@Lawncology I can't wait to see. I'm a believer in biostims!

[@Lawncology]

@@mikehixon66 the biggest take away was the root growth without fertility involved. Drainage improved. Year two we saw some interesting things with the soil respiration.

[@kennyjohn3774]

@@Lawncology OH, I can't wait for THAT 💥 to drop. Maybe you can call it "SCAM BUSTER" I've seen a lot of the studies and it really proves your great products are so agronomically superior and with consistent use of them, the soils are like heaven for turf roots and rhizomes. I appreciate ya bro!

[@SpringwaterParkcc]

Interesting counter best-practices advice, unfortunately diminished by being nestled in a sales effort. There are two reasons to core aerate: to reduce compaction and reduce THATCH. Thatch accumulation (dead roots and stems) abve 1/2 inch indicates core aeration. Aeration much, much less damaging than vertical cutting. Core aeration use critical in managing root-rotting diseases such as the very common Necrotic Ring Spot. Been at this since 1993. Les

[@Lawncology]

Thanks for the feedback, the thatch reduction on multi year studies don’t indicate enough of a reduction to have this be the best practice. Even the oldest turf text books say that best management practices keep aeration needs at bay. Sales effort? No. I could have done that but did not. Home owners waste time and energy doing aeration on laws that don’t require it. Companies love selling aeration as it’s great spring and fall revenue.

[@SpringwaterParkcc]

@@Lawncology I base my recommendations on the Ontario Turfgrass Research Foundation, University of Guelph, and membership in Landscape Ontario, PLCAA, Sports Turfgrass Association of ON. Lots of ideas come and go in landscaping. Liquid aeration may or may not be a winner. Core aeration will likely remain as a staple as it should. All the best, Les

[@Lawncology]

@@SpringwaterParkcc you nailed it there. Sports turf and home lawns are two different animals. I ran through the where’s when’s and why’s to aerate in this video, nothing about liquid. I also made the point that aerating out of habit isn’t beneficial nor aerating when it’s not needed. Hopefully you watched the video and didn’t just comment ahead. Sports turf needs frequent aeration for a variety of reasons to maintain playability, recommendation for my golf green and for my lawn area are completely different. Turf research is for playing surfaces not lawns. Not that a person can’t do the exact same thing as a golf course or a ball field, they just don’t abuse their lawn like those areas will. This video is for home owners wondering if they need to spend the time or money on this activity or if they fit the bill not to.

[@lawn2learn]

Now if you could show us to the bar good sir. 🍻

[@Lawncology]

All of you! This way!!!!

[@edhopkins6589]

👍

[@teemmm538]

😂😂😂😂

[@ufotrailers7131]

$79 for a Green SCOTT Aerator 🇨🇦 and they build aeration wheels as well makes there own TINES.

[@joebalenzano6623]

I noticed my lawn was getting lumpy when I was aerating it every fall

[@jaythomas2963]

Can comparison cause humps and unevenness in my yard???

[@Lawncology]

Could. Likely it’s from other stresses. Drought or insect pressure that kills areas of turf can cause lumpiness. Different grass types in one lawn can do the same. Frost heave or heavy weight can cause heaving. Best option in any of these cases is to raise the playing field little by little

[@williamfoster0722]

If you mow 3 times/week (with equipment that is ~400lbs) - is this considered ‘heavy equipment?

[@Lawncology]

I’d say be careful on wet soil us all

[@wcbscout]

Spike aeration is the only way to go, problem is rental companies generally only let core aerators. Unless you are trying to change soil composition core aeration is not as beneficial as spike aeration for both the grass and the human doing the work. There are studies that compared spike vs. core aeration, the results indicated the grass benefited more from spiking rather than coring.

[@Lawncology]

Email me a link to those studies. I read through one that indicated the opposite. 3 years of aerations multiple times per year on sports fields that led to zero relief of soil compaction.

[@wcbscout]

@@Lawncology when I get to sit down at the laptop I will track that down. Note, I mentioned that the grass benefited from the spike aeration, and if I recall it was not focused on compaction as much as it was grass health, while I realize soil compaction is not beneficial to the grass I was most interested in the immediate benefits of aeration to the turf rather than overall compaction, if that makes any sense. Anyhow, happy to track it down. Perhaps there is an element of cognitive bias here at play as well being that I wanted to find a resource that demonstrated spike aeration’s merits. Good day.

[@Lawncology]

@@wcbscout I got you. I would love to see it anyhow.

[@HB-yq8gy]

I heard it doesn't make sense to fertilize if your hp is 4.20 should concentrate on pellet lime?

[@Lawncology]

4.2 unless you’re growing centipede will Need a lot of lime

[@HB-yq8gy]

@@Lawncology Thanks😁 no just cooler northern NJ grass I think mostly tall fescues I think definitely no Kentucky bluegrass.

[@Tenpennycustoms4958]

How can I get a good nitrogen push, but stay away from high urea?

[@Lawncology]

Are you specifically trying to avoid urea? Ammonium sulfate is a great alternative.

[@Tenpennycustoms4958]

@@Lawncology I found with the 25-10-10 if my dog looks at the grass the yellow dog spots appear. If I use Other lawn products with out nitrogen the spots do t appear as offer. But the dog pee on top of the urea is just a greater amount. Thanks for the info. These videos you’re coming out with are great by the way. Thank you 💯

[@barbarosasmth2104]

Aerating is the absolute best thing you can do for your lawn.

[@Lawncology]

Ha! Watering it is the probably the best thing, mowing, then feeding… aeration doesn’t take the list.

[@brianyoungberg9904]

I have never aerated and have the best yard in the neighborhood

[@TheLawnMentor]

Mow, water, feed…my next video literally discusses this. Did you steal my notes?

[@Lawncology]

If you didn’t sit next to me in class with your notes out for everyone to see, this wouldn’t happen. It’s your fault.

[@TheLawnMentor]

@@Lawncology it’s hard to make a folder fort with only 1 folder!

[@Lawncology]

@@TheLawnMentor your penmanship just makes it hard not to look.

[@TheLawnMentor]

@@Lawncology stop staring at my ManShip! 🍆

[@SuperTA329]

John, did I say anything wrong to have my experience using a liquid aeration product deleted? I would hope my comments are welcome.

[@Lawncology]

I don’t know that I ever saw one

[@douglasbaker5949]

Iowa master gardener said fertilizer Memorial Day the Professional Lawn care place I get my products say start around Easter. Middle Eastern Iowa. Clay with clay sand mix.

[@Lawncology]

Typically pros are out doing pre and post emergent herbicides early on. Some pros throw a heavy N app down early to boost spring sales. I say wait until growth slows and nail it

[@douglasbaker5949]

@@Lawncology yup I did just lay down some crab grass preventer and fertilizer.

[@Lawncology]

Nice

[@mikeo8890]

I think the lawn will benefit from it, whether you need it or not. The bottom line is how hard you want to work or spend.

[@kreb7]

I have heavy clay so I need it to mechanicaly do it

[@Lawncology]

Get that grass thick and healthy and you won’t have to as often

[@bostromb]

What the CNN font?! Great video John!

[@Lawncology]

Thank you Brett

[@richardhines7042]

What if I have a lawn that is 30 years old. Should I aerate it?

[@Lawncology]

Is it compacted?

[@richardhines7042]

@@Lawncology Hard to tell.

[@PacificNorthwestLawns]

I've owned my home since 2014 and have never mechanically aerated and I know the previous owners certainly didn't. I've never really had any need to. Air8 used regularly has made it simple enough to push a screwdriver down 6 inches or more with little effort.

[@Lawncology]

Likewise. None of the lawns around me that use the juice ever aerate. Soft and non compacted soil.

[@kacybruce4379]

How many applications of air8 (years/months) does it take to get the benefits from the app?!

[@PacificNorthwestLawns]

@@kacybruce4379 it's only been available in WA state for about 2 years. I started using it right away. I apply 3oz per 1k monthly during the growing season. I noticed a difference within just a few months and it just continues to get better.

[@SuperTA329]

I had my comment removed because I mentioned I used SLS soil loosener. I thought this was a friendly lawn care community. I got great results using a similar product to Air8. ?

[@PutEmInTheBox]

@@SuperTA329 haha yeah right

[@jaymetheaccountant]

Don’t do it if you don’t need it. Take are of the big three and life will be good on your turf 😎

[@Lawncology]

Bingo

[@fanatic4hockey]

Do you have to water the lawn before aerating?😢

[@Lawncology]

You should if it’s very compacted

[@raulgutierrez5862]

IMO, I think it's useless to aerate a cool season lawn. You aerate before overseeding in Fall and during the growing season in Spring to spread your summer lawn.

[@jamiepippin3892]

Yes, it is useless on cool season turf, except when overseeding in the fall to help get seed into the soil. I don’t aerate anything in the spring, that’s just asking for weeds. Warm season lawns only need fertilizer and pre-emergent to look super good. If your soil is compact, aerating doesn’t fix it permanently. It needs to be amended with wood chips, manure, etc. I’ve been charging people to core aerate their lawn for years and the purpose is to help tall fescue germinate in the fall.