Building the Legio Custodes Orion Dropship P2: The Flexible Fantastic (Horus Heresy, Forge World)

[@Trazynn]

This methodical approach is so satisfying to watch.

[@leakycheese]

+decentradical Thank you, I also find it satisfying to do.

[@kodishkhan1]

Impressive work. Much better than I could do. Warped resin is the bane of my existence.

[@leakycheese]

+kodishkhan1 Cheers, hope the demo gives you some ideas to tame the grey stuff. Thanks for watching :)

[@leakycheese]

Sorry if the lighting in the video is a bit poor at times.... it was overcast when I was filming. Enjoy! 😊

[@maxbrandt6]

You know the secret of working with resin models, something that eluded many of my fellow modelers for a long while and caused them to give up on certain kits. Collect-Air resin models were infamous for their incredibly ill fitting parts, leading most to say they were unbuildable but those in the know made them buildable!

[@leakycheese]

+Max Brandt This Collect-Air you speak off sound hardcore, perhaps we should all be made to make one to appreciate what is available on the market today? Appreicate the kind words and thanks for watching :)

[@gregtdude]

"Woooo flexy!" Haha brill :) I've never seen so much give!

[@leakycheese]

+gregtdude I think it got cooked a bit more than was intended! Thanks for watching :)

[@bespokehero]

Keep up the good work on this. Think you should be the new Duncan for Forge World as they really should have construction videos for the bigger kits

[@leakycheese]

+Pete Parmiter Haha, cheers mate 😁 Thing you get with me is an honest and independent opinion on how to tackle these models, I don't try and sell you stuff and suggest affordable but effective tools. Oh, I won't treat you like a child from a health and safety viewpoint either 😉 Thanks for watching :)

[@goblinry]

Thanks for the clarification. I would hate to have any cultural or language barriers dampen my appreciation of your dry sense of humor.

[@leakycheese]

Nathan Anderson You are most welcome, definately don't want you missing out on any funnies. Thanks for watching:)

[@gonzomax9662]

Can't help but feel you've missed a trick with the term "dunking". Surely calling the process "quenching" adds a suitable level of gravitas and blacksmithy-ness far more appropriate to the building of heavy duty military materiel. As always, great vid! This is rapidly becoming my favourite modelling and war gaming channel, so hats off to you Mr Cheese sir.

[@leakycheese]

*Tips hat back to Max Gonzo* You have a good point there my friend, quenching is a word steeped in armaments production history. I shall have to get it into a future video for sure! I much appreciate your kind words about the channel and thank-you for watching :)

[@Cadars]

The great golden bird is back for more all hail the golden bird. Great video i was really surprised how big the gap looks inside the model which seemes to be a thing with this model as far as i know from other videos/pictures. Great video as always give a real inside in how to get the most out of a resin model with fitting and great tips :). it sure has helped me alot with my resin models when building them :)

[@leakycheese]

Cedars Indeed, more golden bird goodness! I can see the gap being a common feature if this kit straight out the moulds because the upper and lower hull sections are just so large, it's not surprising there is a bit of distortion given it is resin. That said, with a bit of work I have got a really good fit on the parts, better than I was expecting really. Keep an eye out for more videos! Thanks for watching :)

[@pmurray726]

Great tutorial, thanks. Looking forward to picking up one of these.

[@leakycheese]

Paul Murray Cheers mate, I guess 2-3 more weeks to release? Thanks for watching :)

[@Mikey__R]

Thanks! I'm really enjoying these videos, and learning a lot too - I've got a Macharius super heavy tank to put together, and possibly convert into an Omega variant. I'm sure these lessons will come in handy.

[@leakycheese]

Cheers and you are most welcome, building resin kits is very different to plastic and the techniques are not always that obvious so it's great to hear you find the videos helpful. The Macharius is a fine looking tank, if you are looking for specific tips Templars Crusade 01 has a few videos on one he built a few years back so well worth checking out. Thanks for watching:)

[@Mikey__R]

leakycheese don't you worry, I've been watching both his Macharius and Omega variant vids on repeat for the last week. As I said, I'm really after an Omega, but the MBT with its twin barrels is also a stunner, and that's the base model I bought for this project. I'm really sad he's no longer making modelling vids, I've enjoyed his back catalogue.

[@Mikey__R]

I'll also say, I actually prefer resin to plastic kits. Mould lines in waxy plastic can be a nightmare to clear up, as a woodworker I much prefer the harder resin as it responds quite similar to hardwood. And, it's light years ahead of white metal. I'm putting together two squads of Ratlings, and they are fighting me every step of the way.

[@leakycheese]

+Mikey R I agree with you and that's a good comparison for what resin is like to work with. I recently built the Dark Imperium Primaris marines and they took as long as, if not longer, to clean up than equivalent resin models. If you make a slip with poly glues you can make a real mess of the finish on a plastic miniature whereas superglue can be worked off resin without too much bother. Plus, you also tend to get the more unusual models in resin which adds to the draw and as an experienced modeller I really enjoy a challenging build that tests my skills.

[@Mikey__R]

leakycheese I'm perhaps not as experienced, but I get my kicks from converting models. I've got a whole bunch of ideas, from Hellhounds built as armoured cars, to unusual variants of Baneblades and Macharia. I just need to finish what I start! And, of course, the never ending tide of Imperial Guardsmen needs to be assembled and painted...

[@tedwilliams491]

Although the look of the Legio Custodes models personally leaves me cold, I'm glad to see FW took things in a very distinctive, logical direction, as it gives a lovely range of models, even though it's not my cup of Rosie Lea ;) I'm a bit on the fence about resin kits at the moment, as I've just come from building a Deredeo, a Leviathan, a Contemptor, and a Sicaran for my Imperial Fists so possibly feel a little burned out on them generally. ( and I'm aware none of those kits are too difficult to do) But I have become much more choosy when it comes to picking my models in the first place, as the extra work/time involved turns these kits into full 'projects' rather than units you can bang out in a weekend. Like you I kind of relish the challenge vs result of working with resin, but possibly not for every project anymore. I really enjoy these kind of videos as it gives a clear hands-on approach of the kind of typical issues that can be involved in working on the kits featured Grand job mate !

[@leakycheese]

+Ted Williams I see what you mean on the Custodians, their highly ornate nature is not going to appeal to everyone's tastes but the FW crew have made them very unique and distinct; and a great homage to the Adrian Smith artwork from the Horus Heresy card game and visions series of art books from the Black Library. I wouldn't say that your three Imperial Fist models are necessarily that easy to build, the Sicaran takes quite a bit of work to achieve a good fit all over and the Deredeo and Leviathan are complex models in their own right so don't sell your achievement short. I agree with you though, it is best to look at Forge World kits as individual projects because they do require more work than any plastic kit, while presenting so many more opportunities. I really appreciate your kind words and glad you enjoyed the demo, thanks for watching :)

[@tedwilliams491]

Yeah, I was in Warhammer World today, and seeing all the models together, brings it home what a cohesive and unique range it is. As for my resin mountain, I think I'm going to tackle them a kit at a time as the mood takes me. I really do like most of what FW do, and also share your frustrations with the production process, I do expect to do more work with resin, but I also expect better standards than I sometimes feel we actually get for our money :(

[@gurufoxx]

May be a dumb question, but how did you align the holes drilled on the two rear pieces to the hole drilled into the lower hull, to ensure they lined up? It doesn't look like you drilled from the outside of those rear pieces, so...

[@Liljohna1]

Are you going to be painting the inside of the ship? If so (hopefully as it looks really good inside) how would you go about it as in before assembly or after? And what would you do to protect the paint from glue and patch any small gaps that may be there after the pre fitting adjustments.

[@leakycheese]

+johno Yes, I am going to paint the interior of the Orion. My plan is to paint it in two halves before I stick the upper and lower fuselage together. I will complete all the fitting work before painting to avoid any late adjustments. To protect the paint from glue I will probably apply adhesive on faces away from the interior surfaces, a feature this model has ample provision for. What has me a bit more concerned is masking off the interior while I paint the outside as I going to use an airbrush for the main surface work. I might use some paint mask around the rear ramp or even possibly blu-tack to keep the door sealed. It's going to be a fun project as it develops! Thanks for watching :)

[@Silver0809]

Really appreciate your videos! In regards to dunking pieces after you've submerged them in hot water to render them pliable: is that a necessary step? If you let the pieces cool down naturally, will they return to their "original" ill-fitting shapes?

[@leakycheese]

+Silver0809 Cheers buddy, you're most welcome! I run parts under cold water after I have got the position I want to save time and prevent parts returning to their original shape as you say. Resin parts have a 'shape memory' and will return to the form they cured in when heated so you need to hold a bend in position while the part cools below the temperature where it is pliable. I tend to only do it on larger parts as they take a long time to cool down, smaller, thinner parts cool so quickly and it isn't necessary. Hope that helps and thanks for watching :)

[@BrooksSligh]

Again, phenomenal work. Kind of weird how they just split it right down the middle like that, almost like they should have done the interiors walls as separate parts like a veneer. OTOH how is a person supposed to paint the interior? Usually I paint it in parts then glue it together, which wouldn't work with this kit.

[@leakycheese]

+Brooks Sligh Sir, I appreciate your kind words as always. The interior design of this vehicle is rather fascinating as the geometry of the troop bay is complex and unusual. I'll share some thoughts on that later as my build progresses. Thanks for watching :)

[@mrbump2356]

Hey leakycheese, these assembly videos are great. I buy FW Bloodbowl models, but I've never got a vehicle kit before and with Blood Angels on the horizon with the next Black Book I'm definitely thinking of getting into the game. The video you did on getting into the HH was helpful. Could you do a video on advising on how a beginner could start tackling some of these kits? Like which kinds of kits to start on and the order to progress to. The Sicarian tanks look pretty sweet, or would you suggest a dreadnought to begin with? And cheers for putting out the content, its very helpful.

[@leakycheese]

+Mr Bump That's kind of you to say so, I'm really pleased you have enjoyed watching those videos and found them helpful. If you have a look in my how-to play list there is a series of videos I did on making a Deimos Rhino where I talk about the different stages of building a FW resin kit so should be helpful. There is also a video about the tools that I use for building resin models which might also be of interest. An introduction to FW resin kits is a great idea for a video, I'll definitely do that soon as it is an interesting discussion point. As a quick answer to your question I'd probably start with a dreadnought like the Contemptor or Leviathan. As well as being fairly straightforward to build they are really fun models with great posing options. The Sicaran is a great looking tank for sure although the kit is harder work than a walker. Thanks for watching :)

[@mrbump2356]

Cheers for the pointer. I'll check the rhino video out.

[@gregtdude]

Hi Mr Cheese, have you ever had a problem with one of the posts snapping on the door hinge/pivot part?

[@leakycheese]

+gregtdude Never until last night. It happened last night and I almost died. After my heart was started and I stopped swearing I came up with an ingenuous fix which I will talk about in my next video. Thanks for watching :)

[@Inherent_Deterrent]

What did you do to ensure the pinholes were lined up properly? Do you use a locator stud?

[@leakycheese]

+ZeroPathos Yes basically, I drilled the full depth hole into each small side hull piece and then cut a piece of the wire that stood 1mm proud and put it in the part. I then did a push fit with the lower hull and once in position pressed the parts together, the sharp end of the wire pressed into the lower hull and the main hole was drilled from there. Rinse repeat for the other side, cut the full length pins and all done. Thanks for watching:)

[@Inherent_Deterrent]

leakycheese that's actually quite an inspired way to go about it

[@johanmalmquist6076]

Great video as always! Do you have any experience of the quality control of stuff bought directly from the Forge World store at Warhammer World versus web order? Was recently visiting Warhammer World and bought quite a lot of kits and all of them were really excellent in regards to casting and warping. Even the older kits like the Fellblade that I got were really good, was really worried by that one as I've read quite a lot of horror stories on the web but it turned out to be a really excellent cast! Normally when I order via the web to Sweden there's usually a lot more fixing to do on the kits than there were on the around 10 products that I bought directly from Warhammer World. Makes me kinda wonder if the quality control for the stuff there is stricter?

[@leakycheese]

+Johan Malmquist Thank you Sir! I address that very point in the quantitative analysis video I did on Forge World kit quality. Check it out, you might be interested: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pYmmdZJsZbKsoqs I haven't seen any evidence that there is any difference in QC according to if you buy via mail order or from Warhammer World. Any differences are essentially selection bias, i.e. when you buy in person you will pick the better kits out where visually possible. Thanks for watching :)

[@carabus0354]

Never brought anything large from Forge World hear to many horry stories, I think you're video has quelled my fears and the silenced the nay sayers. Thank you. Subscribed.

[@leakycheese]

+Carabus 03 I've bought over 130 kits from Forge World and the majority (65-70%) have been completely problem free. I think you still need to be vigilant for faulty parts as they do occur but if you encounter this ask for a replacement as Forge World have a very good reputation for customer support. Thanks for subscribing and watching :)

[@wardog3179]

I had seen the 30 seconds for the small part so, how long did it take to heat-up the larger part? love the vids!

[@leakycheese]

+Wardog I should have timed that and put it in the video as I edited it down for pacing. I think the larger lower fuselage was immersed for about 2 minutes IIRC. That's why it was so super bendy when I got it out. If you are going to do this with some parts just experiment to begin with by putting them in the water for maybe 30 seconds, picking them out and checking for flexing. If it isn't soft enough pop it back in for another 30s and check again. You'll soon get a feel for how long different parts take. Hope that helps and thanks for watching :)

[@powerwolf-vw8st]

i really want to see someone do this in chrome/aircraft aluminium so it looks like the hunter killer from terminator would look very cool

[@leakycheese]

+powerwolf1097 \m/ I'm tempted. Electric blue details as well I feel. Thanks for watching :)

[@powerwolf-vw8st]

its the first thing i thought of when i seen this lol and by chrome i do mean the full alclads and oil washes treatment leds would look extra nice on some of the lights but a massive pain to bore out of solid resin i would think

[@thehypergamer9873]

hey how difficult do you think the marauder bomber will be to put togeather just ordered it. I have done the following things hobby wise. Been in the hobby for about a year and a half Put togeather close to ten smaller resin kits the largest was Shar'Tor 14 years of age Put togeather and painted countless models Am willing to be challenged with things Can you judge how difficult you think this will be for me please?

[@leakycheese]

+The Hyper Gamer !! I've not built a Marauder but given it's size and age I'd guess it will be a fair challenge. The right tools are important, I gave you a link to my video about this is a reply to you on another video so make you have watched that. If you don't have one already a razor saw is a must. General tips: wash the parts first, then clean up all the main structural components. Spend time dry fitting all these parts and never follow the construction sequence shown as it might not be the best way to build it. Work out any warped parts using hotwater bending to get a good fit. You may see videos and guides where you see Forge World models clamped together while they set. Avoid this, it should never be necessary to do so and I personally have never clamped any FW kits together I've built, even the Warlord. You sound like you have a good amount of experience for your age but this will still probably be a challenging build for you. Take your time and don't rush it, these are really expensive models and should be treated with respect. Once superglued together so e resin parts are almost impossible to separate so a mistake can be costly! Other than that if you would like further advice it is best to drop me an email (see the description) and include photos of what you are working on and I'll try me best to help you out. Good luck and thanks for watching :)

[@mart15596]

I was wondering, where do you get your pins from?

[@leakycheese]

+mart15596 I use piano wire I buy from my local model store: www.modelshopleeds.co.uk/catalog/index.php?cPath=136_489 You can get it from lots of different places including Ebay. You'll need a pair of hardened wire cutters to cut it because it is pretty tough. Thanks for watching :)

[@mart15596]

Great, thanks for the tip! I've been getting frustrated with trying to bend paper clips into straight pins so something that's straight out of the box, or at least elastic enough so it wouldn't require too much bending, would be a major improvement. I'll definitely be seeking out something equivalent that'd ship to where I'm at.

[@JEKAZOL]

If they charge, what is it £250 or whatever for these? Shouldn't they be perfect? Shouldn't some one be doing what you are doing before they pack them? As I type you are talking about this, lol.

[@leakycheese]

+JEKAZOL Thanks for watching :)

[@TheNorfolkThunderbolt]

Mmmmmm, poached gerbil...

[@daveg4738]

Ive gotten nothing but garbage from ForgeWorld.Three of four that I ordered from them came in such a poor state and these were new releases.I guess if you don't order over the 250 pound mark they package poorly and not to mention the models them selves.Poorly cast.They wont get anymore business from me.

[@leakycheese]

+Dave G Unlucky. Thanks for watching :)