Learn about the Kenmore Q-Foot - A Magical Sewing Machine Presser Foot for Sewing Stretchy Knits

[@lisabres1]

I would love to see some new videos of yours. You deliver your information in an easily understandable manner and I very much appreciate what I have learned from you, especially concerning the vintage Kenmore. Thank you so much. Hope this note finds you doing well and even better. ❤

[@ninjananagardner7672]

Who oh why no more Stevie Videos ! I could watch them all day !

[@LucilleCarmichaelPDX]

Same.

[@jujubroots619]

I need to see if I have a Q foot now! Going to look through all my Kenmore attachments and accessories now!

[@Real_g.s.]

I am in love with Kenmore machines. I was so sad when Sears stopped selling them. The one I use now is 35 years old, works perfectly. I was so happy when I found out that in Sears last days, the Kenmore's were all made by Janome, so that's what I look for now (Just bought my first serger). I am not fond of Singer (crap quality now that they're all made in China) - but my 1939 Singer treadle, made in America, will live forever. Works like brand new.

[@terit.6593]

The stitch quality on your sample is gorgeous. I'm on the hunt for this foot for my recently acquired Kenmore 1803. Thank you for sharing.

[@nimarie2477]

Thank you !! I've had the Kenmore 1914 sewing machine for around 6 years maybe longer & never have used my Q foot it came with, & I always have the worst time sewing with knits !! In fact now that I think about it, I sometime back my quilts with minky, & will be backing with cotton spandex fabric I bet that foot will be great when topstitching with this foot !! I sew alot of baby stuff with cotton spandex fabric and I'm always struggling !!! Thank you Thank you !!!!! Like honestly!! Can't wait to try it out !!

[@BeeBops53]

Your machine (in the video),sounds amazing ....so quiet and so smooth running. I am fortunate to own 2 Q-feet. One w/ machine I purchased and one came with a box of feet I purchased. both for super high shank. Thank you for your videos

[@SewSaveMe]

From what I understand the 158.1802 is one of the smoothest running machines and highly saut after.

[@TheTreegodfather]

I'd love to see you do a video on double needle set-up, use, and applications. ❤️

[@jag8789]

I got my machine at the mall from sears in the 70s and it came with a q foot . I forgot about how good the q foot works. thanks for doing this video. my machine still works perfect

[@lorettazimmer8071]

Stevie. Love you. Someone was badmouthing the Kenmore for skipped stitches on knits so I just sent her your video.

[@cazkiwinz4300]

Clicked on your video ‘cos I liked your machines, stayed and subbed ‘cos I liked your chit chat 🤗🤗🤗

[@SewSaveMe]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@Cybelexlyra]

So glad I found your channel. I found a 158 Japanese model, at a thrift shop. It came with a Q foot. The packaging is grey. Awesome channel. :)

[@seffssweetsstitches2897]

I was just given my mom's 158.1703 kenmore and found out that the foot called the Sears Stretch Stitch foot is actually a Q foot. Very happy 😊

[@SewSaveMe]

Be Warned Kenmore also made another foot KM6784 it was also gold shanked and came with machines. I have this foot and it does work with most knits But I was unable to make it sew power mesh and super 4 way strech materials. The Bottom of it is a bit different then a Qfoot. How ever My Knit foot is not marked with any numbers or patent pending. And all the Qfeet ive seen does have markings on them Like a Q on the foot or Patent Pending or even a number stamped on them. Dead give away if its a qfoot I think is if its got markings on it. Otherwise Assume its a KM6784 Knit foot. The KM6784 is still not a bad foot to have And ive used it on Tshirts works ok. But the Qfoot is more magic.

[@seffssweetsstitches2897]

@@SewSaveMe the foot I have does have "Pat Pend" labeled on it. Wish I could post a picture of it, just to be certain.

[@SewSaveMe]

Its Def not a Knit foot then. I cant say ive seen loads of them But the two Ive seen didnt have any markings on them. Only foot ive seen with markings is the Qfoot.

[@miniquelange7848]

In the super high shank ones, I believe some are for the left-homing needle machines, and then for centre?

[@lisalu910]

My latest estate sale Kenmore came with a low shank Q foot and needles in the original blue box. Always wanted to try them out!

[@helenwood3199]

How is the Q foot manufactured so it sews knit so much better?

[@ninjaturtle365]

Is this a good foot to use on faux leather?? I know everyone says Teflon but since this is plastic and nit metal will this work?

[@ronalddevine9587]

I have a Kenmore 158-1802, and it sounds totally different from yours. Awesome machines. Also have 158-1941, free arm, and 158-1430 flatbed...same machines just different beds. These along with the Singer 201-2 are in my opinion the best domestic machines ever made. We already agree on Kenmore foot pedals. Happy, safe, and healthy New Year

[@SewSaveMe]

Thanks, you too!

[@bludolfin53]

Hi there, while surfing around I came around to your channel. And I happen to have come across a kenmore sewing foots, a lot of them and one of them is the one you are demonstrating. Do you have other "tools" / sewing foots for this machine??? I would love to see demos. I have these large "knobs" that I have no clue what they are used for, hopefully you will read this and provide an answer. thank you very much for sharing your videos.

[@SewSaveMe]

I have a full set of feet for my 158.1802 I didnt do all of the feet because the manual for most kenmores and the feet that fit the machine is pretty good. Go find the 158.1802 book and it has all the imporant feet and how to use them in the book.

[@evelynequilter7050]

I Love my 1050- I gave the 1040 which is also wonderful to the little girl next door.

[@ameliagfawkes512]

I have never heard of a Kenmore machine before. I'm in Scotland. I can't even find a knit foot for my 1015 Bernina. Is Kenmore specifically a US brand?

[@tkarlmann]

I have a Q-Foot, but have not used it much. My concern is having a supply of needles for it. You mentioned "Ball Point" needles. I was told that, presently, there are "Stretch" needles, and that most all needles now are ball point. Are modern needles intended for stretch fabrics useable with the Q-Foot; or are needles for the Q-Foot special in some way?

[@SewSaveMe]

Good Question I have a small amount of Qfoot needles ive never used one. I always use a ball point for knits and they work just fine with that foot.

[@cncurry11]

Thank you! I just ordered a Q foot from ebay.

[@skogul]

Is there a substitute foot to use if you can't find a short shank Q foot?

[@SewSaveMe]

Not that ive found. The Qfoot is pretty magic for these machines fyi they only work with kenmores Feed dog design they dont work on other machines like there suppose to. And not all Low shank machines work eather. Pretty safe if your machine is a 158 148's are hit and miss for qfoot.

[@skogul]

@@SewSaveMe thank you for the great response! I'll keep hunting :)

[@patsacco4803]

Would this ft work on an old kenmire machine. All the ft i have have ankles

[@chrismcneil156]

Thank you for an informative video. 😊. Love it!

[@mahhubbard]

Such a good resource, much Hugs thanks.

[@SewSaveMe]

You are so welcome

[@dianaruffini8794]

Thankyou ! You are the best!

[@joellaurin9007]

Love your videos! What kenmore model is this?

[@statickaeder29]

The multi-point zig zag is a "mending stitch". I have a Kenmore Ultra-Stitch 12, and need to repair bras. I am not finding a Q-foot, though the manual says there should be one, and since I got this sewing machine from my mother, there may be a Q-foot in her sewing stuff - I certainly have plenty of Singer feet from her old sewing machine. So, assuming that I find that Q-foot, what stitch should I use to go over the areas where fabric glue had been used? - I hate bras, and wear them as little as possible (it's one of the many female-taxes), and since I do have work to go to (even today during Covid), I need to wear them. Please help!

[@SewSaveMe]

I went by what the Kenmore book calls the Multi-Point Zig Zag. I am not sure what will work best for you because I don't use fabric glue at all.

[@HJKelley47]

Will the Q-foot work well with the Kenmore 158.903? I understand that the Q-foot and the Applique foot are one and the same?? I better check all of Kenmore feet to see if I already have it, and just have not used it. Your thoughts on the 903 please!

[@SewSaveMe]

The Qfoot and the Applique foot are not the same. The underside of those feet are shaped different. The Qfoot is able to do what it does because the unique design of Kenmores Feed Dogs and combination to the foot it self. As far as you 903 you can always put on one it and see if it sews knits like cotton if it does then your in great shape.

[@elaineburt9129]

Where can you buy one

[@sb9442]

This is not related but I figure if ANYONE would know… that would be YOU… I am looking for the automatic monogrammers for my machines … if… they even take them … I have a 158.1784183 & a 148.12071 …… and I haven’t been able to find any info on what models go with what…. I found tons of these monogrammers on eBay Etsy etc but no way of knowing which ones to buy…. 😢 can you help with this ??? Much appreciated

[@shopwornbear1171]

I somehow doubt Stevie will be answering as he's gone M.I.A some time ago (sadly). I, however, can help. FYI, this message will be in two parts due to its length. Both the models you've listed are not compatible with the Kenmore mechanical monogrammers. If you wanted to use a monogrammer attachment, you need a 158 machine from the 1970's that is compatible or a more modern machine like the 158.1980 for example. Now, there were mechanical monogrammers that were sold with the Tower of Power during the 1960's. These monogrammers are wonderful, but it is all but impossible to buy the lettering cams for them to complete an alphabet. In that era as well, for flatbed style machines, you could buy the snap in monogrammer. This era of monogrammer had a small round hoop. It came with longer, thinner monogram templates for all letters of the alphabet, capital and lower case. They worked on machines like the 1801/1802 for example. As we move into the 1970's, the monogrammer changed as there was now a choice between a flatbed machine and a free arm convertible machine. Monogrammers for flatbeds had different plates than the free arm versions, but they both used the same alphabet plates which are wider and a bit shorter than the prior version with the round hoop. These monogrammers had a larger oval hoop instead. Machines that used the monogrammer were models such as the 1774, 1803, 1813, 1814 to name a few. For the free arm version, machines such as the 1913, 1914, 1931, 1941 for a few examples had the same gear lever that all of the other monogrammers shared to make their gear plates work. Monogrammers that work with the free arm setup (and you need the complete convertible bed for this version) have a plate that you remove from the convertible metal bed, and you would then open the bay for the bobbin race, and snap in the mechanical plate that is built into the monogrammer attachment. Once you dialed in the alphabetical choice of letter, you'd simply run the monogrammer with the small monogram foot that came with the kit. You can use other feet, but it is recommended for you to use the correct monogram foot as the needle will need a lot of real estate to do its thing, and a zig zag foot might not be enough room for it to move around freely (broken needle hazard). The flatbed versions are almost identical except for the gear plate. That gear plate just snaps in as there is no door on the bobbin race bay. These monogrammers are not interchangeable. You need the correct one for the machine plate you are using. For the free arm version, if you buy the 1914 "Storybook" set, you will have the free arm setup. If you bought, say, and 1803 "Storybook" set (I don't have an official name for these vinyl book sets with the accessories, it is what I was told they are called), you'd have the flatbed version that would work on pretty much any flatbed Kenmore machine of that era. The same cannot be said for all Kenmore convertibles. While you could snap that 1914 free arm version into a machine like the 1940, you wouldn't be able to use it on a 1641 as the bed is an entirely different setup; and would not be compatible with the monogrammer gear plate. It is worth mentioning as a side note that some machines that can use the monogrammer may not be able to use the one step buttonholer attachment. The reason for this is that Sears had different tiers of machines, and only the more expensive models were equipped with a thumb screw port that would fit that type of buttonholer attachment. While all of this flatbed variety came with gearplates at their point of sale, some were designed to use the much less featured disc style cam one step buttonhole attachment. One of my machines, a 158.1940 cannot use the 1914's buttonhole attachment. The same is true with the bigger cam disk (you rotate the disk to select the buttonhole pattern you want). Reason? Sears put a larger thumb screw port on the cheaper machines, so that you could only use the lower tiered accessories. The mid tiered machines had a smaller thumb screw port that allowed them to use the more deluxe accessories. As well; there are pattern cam "Storybooks" also. These can only be used in machines that are capable of using the C cams. From the late 1960's where Sears introduced the first stretch stitch machines in its lineup, flatbeds only at that point, and then morphing into the early 1970's where there were some free arm models capable of taking these pattern cams (the 1931, 1914 were two models of convertible machines designed to work with these cams). Flatbeds like the 1813/1814/1774/1803/1750 to 1755 machines all worked with these cams. The best models for making pattern cams were the late 1960's flatbed models like the 1802 and 1750 to the 1755 models which had the stitch "modifier" on the rear of the machines. These made far better shapes than any of the aluminum bodied models that came into existence from 1970 onward. If you see a Kenmore that is from the 1970's with a door on top, it's a cam model. On the mid tiered models (like the 1931 convertible and the 1774 flatbed as just two examples, as well as all of the late 1960's models that took C cams) you NEEDED to have the metal zig zag cam in there. Without it, your machine only sewed straight stitches. That cam stayed in the machine until you decided to use one of the 30 pattern cams (less if you bought the different grey plastic kits that were sold up into the early 1970's with the exception of the "Tower of Power"). Some of these machines were chainstitch capable. Machines like that 1813/1913/1814/1914/1774/1802/1803 to name some models would come with a special propeller and needle plate insert that allowed you to create chain stitches for both decorative as well as utility stitching. Chainstiches are really useful for some. You could throw in a seam, and if you didn't like it, or used this method as an alternative to basting, you could literally just tear it out, and it left a minimal footprint on the fabric as it only stitches from the top side (no bobbin to work this magic). If you decided you liked the stitch, simply tack it off on each end, and voila! Instant permanent seam. The deluxe machines came with something called a Q foot. Q feet fit onto whatever machines you had (Super High Shank and Low Shank). For the 1970's machines, they had to be "For Sewing Machines" or "For Vertical Machines" written on the box they came in. For the post 1978 models, the Q foot was in a box marked "For Horizontal Machines". The Q foot is a knit foot that allows you to sew really REALLY difficult stretch knit fabrics without the puckering and thread deformations that are so prevalent with difficult to sew fabrics with stretch. The foot was originally designed to tackle things like double knit polyesters, but were morphed into stitching anything from jersey to t shirt cotton stretch knits. (Part 2 to follow).

[@shopwornbear1171]

@sb9442 (Part 2) With the 1980s' machines (late 1978 onward to 1985) you had a change of machine tech. The once proud fully metal Kenmore machines suddenly sported nylon gears. These gears DO NOT age well. Some machines might seem like a bargain, but they sport that gear which notoriously splits, rendering the machine useless. All of the top loading bobbin models have that gear on the Maruzen built machines. The 1980 is a great example of that. These machines are still chugging away, but sooner or later, it, and all of the top loading Kenmore machines WILL fail. It's not an "if" its a "when". And unless you know how to 3D model and print a gear, then install it, your machine becomes as dead as disco. Anyhoo....on with the show here. These rear geared machines ran the mechanisms that made monogrammers and buttonhole attachments do their stuff off a gear that was up top. On some models, you snapped in that plate on the rear snap in, on others, you simply removed the cover. These machines just went and sewed nicely, no tea, no shade here. They were quieter than the metal geared Kennies for sure. For the oscillating models (front loading bobbins) these machines more often than not did not come with that rear gear plate. Above, however, that pesky nylon gear lives(d). On these models, once that gear splits, straight stitch only from that point forward. The machine you have displayed a model for is likely one of the nylon gear up top models. When Janome took over the Sears contract about 1985, they had a surplus of machines that they remodelled and in some cases, changed the looks of, and then returned to Sears to sell off the overstock. After that, Janome started (until the year 2000 and beyond where the machine quality started to slowly nosedive into built to fail tech) making the machines. They were basically re-badged Janome machines sporting the Sears Kenmore logo and 385 model numbers. These machines were (and are) well built and beautifully engineered. The fact that some of these machines are 40 years old now and still running strong is a testament to sound engineering principles coupled with durable parts. The Achilles heel here is as follows. Janome used white lithium grease on their machines, Kenmore machines and Elna machines (built int he same factory as Janome using shared to identical parts with different cladding outside). That lithium dries up and turns into concrete. Most machines will either start running in reverse and are no longer able to sew forward, or they cannot go into reverse, period. Easily resolved, but most think their machine is toast and get rid of it/them. Simply cleaning up the reverse mechanism and then lubricating said mechanism with synthetic grease gets you back up and running. The Kenmore models, incidentally, came with a clever snap in buttonholer that continued the Sears tradition of the one step cam driven buttonhole attachment. This one didn't need to snap into some special port like the prior models did. It also didn't need any form of gear plate. It simply would snap directly onto the needle throat plate and do its stuff. All of this era of Kenmore machines were built with a black nylon gear, much thicker and denser than the Maruzen models, and all of the innards were either metal or plastic. The plastics were strong, durable plastics that are not prone to cracking or failing the way white nylon is. Janome also used no petroleum grease in their machines; guaranteeing the plastics were not broken down chemically by that notoriously bad grease to nylon combination that did the Maruzen (and so many Malaise Era Singer/Brother machines in). The Lithium grease may dry hard, but it's repairable if it does. You don't come back from a nylon camstack that splits in two. That's a machine that has just become landfill if that happens. Post 2000, Janome started slipping more and more white nylon into their machines, and in some cases (now ALL cases) put thin, translucent nylon into areas where parts were load bearing. Due to their fail by design engineering, these machines did and do not have the longevity of their prior models. So, it's not recommended you buy anything that is built past 1998 for most machine models. The front loading oscillating models, you can go as far as maybe 2005 before you had to worry about the nylon being present in vulnerable parts. OK, hope that gives you an overview of more answer to your question than you asked. Hopefully, this helps. And...if you buy an all-metal Kenmore from the 1960's to the 1970's, you are buying what is known as a "Heritage Quality" machine. That means that you have bought a machine that will last into your great grand kid's lives if the machine is properly maintained, used regularly (machines do not like to sit for long periods without being used) as well as kept out of the heat/cold/damp (no basements, barns, garages, attics or sitting next to the oven or in the sunlight, etc. Regular oiling is REQUIRED, and the motor should be gone over every 7 to 10 years, and oiled once every six months (a drop in front and back of the motor, directly into the wicking material that surrounds the drive shaft front and back), a year if you haven't used the machine often, and oiled/cleaned after every 8 hours of use (that's a lot of sewing time). The pedals are carbon disc on these machines, and it is recommended they be fully cleaned out and all wiring checked (goes for the machine's wiring as well) at least once a decade. Rewiring these machines is not difficult, and a recommendation is that you buy an electronic pedal instead of using the older carbon resistor style pedals as they can become fire hazard if not properly handled. A 30 dollar electronic pedal works more efficiently and takes all the question marks out of that important safety factor. All sewing machines up to about 2010 were essentially knob and tube tech, unless the machine was electronic. They're safe if you maintain the machine and go with electronic pedals instead of the old fashioned style pedals. Yes, a vintage all metal machine is more maintenance than a modern machine. Sometimes, they don't have some of the newfangled features modern machines do. But they're strong (Kenmore machines "borrowed" Bernina's dual pulley tech which takes the power of the motor and reduces the speed, thus giving the machine better performance at the needle. As well, most Kenmore machines (the US models mostly) are at least 1.0 amps with the flatbeds and the 1914 equipped with 1.2 amp motors. That's a far sight better than the .5 amp motors used in most machines today. Gutless and doomed to fail, but more features and less maintenance. So, it's a matter of choice. If you're willing to commit to getting the machine brought up to code (sometimes these machines are stuck frozen, but heat, penetrating oil and time fixes that up if you are patient and are willing to do the work), and then continue to use and enjoy the unit, keeping up with the maintenance schedules, you will have one very reliable and powerful tool on your sewing table. There is nothing on earth as wonderful as the sound of a finely tuned Kenmore sewing machine in action. I own 7 of them, and each one does one thing bette than the others. If you want a machine recommendation, get either a great flatbed machine (if they're in their original cases, DON'T lift them up by the handle. The plastics on the case handles are brittle, as are the plastics that make the case up, and they have been known to cave in and you end up with a nearly 35 pound machine crashing to the floor). with the extras built into it, or a free arm model like the 1913/1914/1931, or if you don't care about the cams, a 1941, which is the Gold Standard for all Kenmore machines. Happy Sewing!

[@sb9442]

@@shopwornbear1171 😮 wow. A lot to absorb & seeing I’m not a professional ANYTHING let alone seamstress… I’m floored with the Vast amount of knowledge/info you have supplied me with…. Stevie did a video on the Q foot that I saw but I need to re watch that one bcuz I wasn’t quite sure about its uses … and so I’m not 100% sure of the manufacture dates on the models I have ( wish there were better references) to research.. I’m still a bit confused. As I have the actual stock delivery card when this machine was purchased and enclosed was a brochure referencing the automatic monogrammers.. hence my interest in them… leading me to believe these machines DID IN FACT. accept thee attachments? I truly appreciate your very thorough reply but feel rather sad about the fact that I may NOT be able to make use of one of these kits ….as I said I literally found dozens upon dozens of these COMPLETE SETS available on different web sites …. I’m truly sad 😢 to think 🤔… I may never experience this joy… am I wrong or hopelessly wishing for a dream to NEVER COME TRUE ? Please do respond with your best guess on how I should deal with my dreams… and THANK YOU 🙏 OH SO MUCH

[@terrigelbaum8066]

Can I get a Q foot for my Bernina?

[@SewSaveMe]

No the Qfoot is Kenmore only and dont work with every kenmore but mainly the 158's. Im not a Bernina expert by all means but msg our facebook page. My friend crystal would know if bernina has a foot made to work with knits. Im sure they do.

[@terrigelbaum8066]

@@SewSaveMe Thank you so much for answering my queries. You are the sweetest.....

[@galaxytrio]

Thank you!

[@terrigelbaum8066]

Sweetie ,did you do that on purpose, matching your nail polish to your machine?

[@SewSaveMe]

My machine isnt light blue :)

[@sewndebisdream6953]

I have a 185-1345...will high shank fit on it?

[@SewSaveMe]

no clue as I dont have that model of machine. And im not familiar with that number. If your asking about a 148 series most of those were Low shank and not designed to work with the Qfoot some will some wont from what I understand. The Feed dogs were different design from the 148 to the 158's. Most 158 machines can use a Qfoot properly but Again im not sure what machine your talken about but If its a super high shank it most defataly should work with it. If its a 158 Low shank they did make that foot in Low Shank. I have 1 Low shank 158 series machine that works perfect with the Low Shank Qfoot. Dead give away if your machine can use the qfoot is if it has built in strech stitchs or can use the Stretch stitch cams.

[@sewndebisdream6953]

@@SewSaveMe yes.it has a stretch stitch so maybe it would work. It is mentioned in the manual, of course it didn't come with one. Thanks.

[@SewSaveMe]

Then it should work just like my 1802. You could always join the Kenmore sewing group on facebook too. Theres lots of good information about these machines there. And Free Manuals in the Files.

[@versalane6835]

I bought a pink atlas at a thrift store. The motor races and will only go one speed. I replaced the foot pedal and it never helped. Do you have any suggestions for me on what needs to be fixed?

[@SewSaveMe]

With out a lot more info Im not sure how to help. You can always hit is up on our Facebook page maybe we can give you more clues why this is doing it.

[@PibbleMom297]

I know I'm way behind the 8-ball considering this was a year ago. But if you still have the machine, have someone who understands electric motors to look at it. It sounds as though it was rewired and done so incorrectly. I learned this the hard way myself when I re-wired the pedal & light cords incorrectly on one of my machines. My machine did exactly that. It turns on and races at high speed. As soon as I transposed the wires, it worked perfectly.

[@PibbleMom297]

As always, an EXCELLENT video! I've seen a Q foot here and there on ebay and have been tempted to buy it as I have 4 vintage Kenmores. So gotta get me one of those little buggers! One of my machines is a "Ketherweight" 1040 that I adore. And of all my Kennies, this one is the best for sewing knits, and it works exceptionally well with double needles. Like you, I'll not buy a cover stitch either; it'd be a waste of money. The little 1040 is a gem and as I'm sure you know, it's pretty fast. And I'm drooling over your 1050 - it has a different cute look from the previous Ketherweights and I'm always on the lookout. Would you be willing to tell me if there are any significant functional differences between the two? And have you ever seen or picked up a 1060? I'm having a relapse of S.M.A.D (Sewing Machine Acquisition Disorder) and would love to find a 1050. Of course I risk my husband divorcing me if he sees another machine coming into the house so . . . . . . we'll see. 😁

[@SewSaveMe]

the 1050 has some more additional stitches they were able to stuff in to the cam stack but other then that its not much different then the 1040. The 1060 is quit different and yes Ive had one of them and sold it. Other then a collector item its not much smaller then a full size free arm machine and I could not see a reason to keep it. Esp for what they sell for. My 1760 is my free arm goto and it can do all the kenmore stitches as it has a cam stack and takes cams.

[@PibbleMom297]

Thank you!

[@daniellegraham516]

I love your videos, you've given me confidence to work on my machines :) Now if I could find the Q foot for my machine. I've been looking online everywhere. Any suggestions? Thanks so much.

[@SewSaveMe]

If its a low shank there kinda rare and hard to find. I have one low shank qfoot and it took me a year to find one on ebay.

[@sewndebisdream6953]

Where do you buy this for 158 series kenmore?

[@SewSaveMe]

Try Ebay or other online places. There not made no more as far as Im aware but the super High shank version is very common.

[@sharondavidson7072]

I have never heard pf the Q foot

[@SewSaveMe]

You should get one there amazing.

[@PibbleMom297]

I always enjoy your videos! I'm a kindred soul when it comes to Kenmore's. I got my first one around 1969, a model 159-1400 and I loved it! I'd only sewed on my mother's White Rotary 77 (also a great machine but only straight stitch) and was thrilled to have stretch stitches for knits!! I have a bunch of the 158 series; not sure how many at this point as they're all over the house, but at least 12 or more! I don't have a 1050, but I do have a 1040 that I rehabbed (learned a lot from you about such things!) and I love it. I TOTALLY agree with you about twin needles! I refuse to buy a cover stitch as well. Twin needles work beautifully for all sorts of projects: t-shirts, underwear, knit dresses and lots more. I particularly like using them for underwear seams because they end up much softer than serged seams which can rub and cause irritation on sensitive skin. And of course they're superb for knit hems. Thanks for all the wonderful advice and instructions you share.

[@annesummers09]

It was hard to see the foot clearly. Love your videos.

[@bludolfin53]

also you do videos on how to the maintance on the kenmore's sewing machine??, Wow, your fast on the pedal!!! lol

[@SewSaveMe]

Na kenmores are slower then most machines esp compaired to a singer. But I use a 2491u industrial machine a lot so sewing on my 1802 is very slow.

[@rubygoodman7589]

why do your kenmore sewing machinee just spin slow before it seww

[@SewSaveMe]

Because I changed out the belts with fractional Hp solid rubber belts.