Learn Onshape: Drawing Threads for a Nut & Bolt

[@hydragoon7693]

This is unironically better than the official tutorial

[@heavyjohnny]

Short, Concise, Easy to follow. GOLD! Thank you

[@BizarreDude]

Been needing to figure out how to design threads for a while now, thanks a ton!

[@logickedmazimoon6001]

Thanks! Currently designing a tube with a screwcap that has a compartment in the cap that is left handed!

[@MakerLessons]

That's a great use of this since it is real easy to switch the helix to counterclockwise with just the click of a button.

[@shababhsiddique]

How is this video only have 600 likes this is the best thread tutorial for onshape.

[@WeatherWorld]

Excellent tutorial, helped immensely with what I’m working on rn, thanks 😊

[@PR-gd5tk]

Great video and thank you. I've been playing with threading in Tinkercad and I didn't really like the way they handle threading. Onshape seems to handle threading in a manner that is more inline with how I'm used to making threads (which is on a lathe). It looks like a more complicated process to create a thread for 3D printing with Onshape but your video will help me greatly. Thanks again.

[@MakerLessons]

Yea, the helix sweep path is like the lathe spinning and your hands moving, and the sketch profile is like the shape of the tip of your turning tool. Good analogy 👍

[@philliptoone]

3:00 I did. I looked it up and you are right. And now I know a new word.

[@matthewrice5721]

This was incredibly helpful. Thank you!

[@MakerLessons]

Glad you found it helpful😃

[@zachtippetts624]

Great video. Thank yo for making this! I'm testing it out now!

[@kyenotyrell]

Amazing work!

[@MakerLessons]

Glad you think so!

[@smoothwalrus9354]

Very awesome tutorial, thank you

[@u2bist]

Fantastic tutorial, very clear! Anybody else notice that in the Assembly animations the nut rotates the opposite way it should when screwing on and off?

[@MakerLessons]

Thanks and if I hit the reverse direction arrow it would have spun the right way.

[@Cobraedits721]

My onshape is different. When I click helix, It shows the option "input type." is there a type spot where i can type in the height because i've been watching videos and I think mine is updated

[@MakerLessons]

Hey so I went in to check what you were talking about and it looks like you can pick an end point when using the input type turns or pitch. Is that what you are asking about?

[@Cobraedits721]

@@MakerLessons oh thanks for responding. I figured it out but I wanted to know how to chose how high I wanted the thread to be and it not be the full part

[@younomehomie]

thank you so much for this tutorial it helped me so much

[@MakerLessons]

Glad it helped

[@tunckuyel]

thank you for your work but why don't we use boolean operation for nut (with offset) ?

[@MakerLessons]

Hey, thanks for watching. There is more than one correct way to model something and using a boolean operation is definitely one way to do it. I didn't want to introduce boolean in this video but I do plan on making an entire video on those operations soon.

[@ahamedkhan232]

Thank You !!! great tutorial

[@RexHanson]

Good tutorial. The only thing I do differently is to make the angle of the thread triangle be 45 degrees so you don't need support material under the threads when 3D printing them.

[@fxzzy__]

45 instead of 60 then?

[@MakerLessons]

60 works since the over hang is only 30 degrees but use whatever works best for what you're making. 45 would make a flater thread is all

[@fxzzy__]

@@MakerLessons thank you :)

[@carlosskarba7933]

Good tutorial! Thanks for the video. Now I know how to make nuts&bolts in onshape(;

[@mdharrisuiuc]

Super helpful video! I have to replicate a buttress thread on a kayak part, so the native threading tool in onshape wasn't going to work for me. This will solve my issue!

[@MakerLessons]

Glad it helped!

[@quintensteenwyk4368]

Is there a reason that the same helix and sketch profile wasn't used both times? Was it for the tolerance adjustments?

[@rbo3dstuff]

I just love your videos! These help me a lot as I'm an Onshape beginner 🙂 Only weird thing is that the section "Adjustments for tolerance" is without sound. As I'm designing for 3D printing this is about the most important step ;-). Any more info?

[@MakerLessons]

Thanks for checking the videos out! I'm glad they are helpful. I do need to get better with audio, and I have no idea what happens when I upload them to YT cause they always sound fine in my editor 😅 In terms of actually printing the threads for tolerance, there are two ways to go about it. The simplest would be to just go into your slicer and adjust the scale of the nut to 101% or 102%. This may not be feasible depending on what you're printing but is a quick little hack to account for tolerance. The other way is to actually make adjustments to your design. So for instance, whatever shape you are sweeping along the helix make smaller on the bolt. The amount will depend on the quality of your print/printer. I would start with adjusting the size by at least the bead width you have your priter set to (i.e.,01, .015, .02). As always, do a few test prints and see what works for your setup. GLHF

[@meashish]

@@MakerLessons If I just scale the nut in slicer, wouldn't that also change the pitch in the nut?

[@alonravgad]

This is AMAZING! THANKS!

[@angrygreek1985]

How do I shorten the helix so it's not the entire length, or make the sweep not go all the way? I only want a partially threaded bolt

[@MakerLessons]

When you click on helix there are a bunch of options. There is a turn and pitch option where you can set your pitch and then choose how many turns you want. This will allow the partial threading you are looking for.

[@Cobraedits721]

@@MakerLessons My onshape is different. When I click helix, It shows the option "input type." is there a type spot where i can type in the height because i've been watching videos and I think mine is updated

[@belem_enginering]

Thanks so much!

[@Po7322-6]

at 1:08 why do we change to pitch?

[@MakerLessons]

Preference. Pitch can be found from TPI by dividing 1 by TPI and it's just what I like to work with. It also helps me when I am making the sweep profile to know how large I can make it.

[@christopherreddick5263]

It is sad that a tutorial of this level of detail is required for something that should be so much simpler in OnShape. Thanks for this tutorial!

[@gukobayashi6763]

I want to make an iso M3 bolt, what are the dimensions I have to using on the triangle

[@MakerLessons]

To 3d print? That's gonna be really fine threads. At that point I suggest just printing a solid bolt and get yourself a tap and die set

[@gukobayashi6763]

@@MakerLessons thanks

[@MakerLessons]

If you're just looking to make threads that show in a drawing there is the threads feature kzbin.info/www/bejne/rmGykmmOqreUfpo

[@bearman9751]

cant get the triangle to line up with the helix... that tool just allows me to click both points and nothing happens... ive rewathed ur video 4 times now doing step.... by step.... nothing happens still. plz do updated video. thx

[@bearman9751]

your video is def out dated. i cant even select helix for sweep path..... updated video plz. thx

[@brightsde3511]

Its not outdated, I tried it and it worked! perhaps can you make your project public and share the link so we can see the issue you are experiencing.🙂

[@brightsde3511]

as of 4/6/2023

[@RuggedGoodLooks]

nice

[@duviday]

whats with the 'adjustments for tolerance' part? Why did you stop talking? no idea what's going on there.

[@MakerLessons]

Tolerance of your 3d printer. Make adjustments to the gap between parts based on your printer

[@bretthl1]

Looks good until you translate the part because the helix does not translate. If you delete the helix after the sweep then the sweep is deleted also. If you select the part the helix is not selected. If you translate the part the helix does not translate. If you translate the part by copy you get two of the same parts and one helix that defines the sweep in both parts. If you select the part and the helix and select transform when the transform dialog opens helix is deselected from the list. When the part is transform the helix remains in the XYZ location where it was created. This is lame. How do you fix this? In my mind Onshape is not ready for prime time.

[@MakerLessons]

Hey, so I am pretty sure it is not translating because you need to select the curve. A helix creates a separate curve feature on the work flow tree to the left like when you make a new part or surface. This also means you can turn it off visually with the little eye icon like with parts you want to hide. You can't delete it because it is being used as the sweep path. I have not tried to translate this myself yet but let me know if that helps. I also would only try to do these type of threads at the end of your drawings and if you are trying to 3D print these threads. Otherwise if you are creating threads just for a drawing sheet just use the new thread feature -> kzbin.info/www/bejne/rmGykmmOqreUfpo Onshape is always updating and getting better everyday. It may not be solidworks or fusion just yet but its getting there and its free and browser based.

[@Gottenhimfella]

Please do not say "Draw" when you mean "Model". Draw means to create a drawing. It is a lot easier to model custom threads in Onshape than it is to get the drawing sheet created from that model to actually show those custom threads. The silhouette edge to enable dimensioning the tread profile does not seem to get computed correctly by the native drawing capability, which has been added on by a German developer, contracted to Onshape. In many cases it is just blank.

[@Gottenhimfella]

Since posting this I have been reminded that there is a "View Render Mode" option under "View Properties" where you can change a view or views to the "Best quality" setting. In my case this did the trick.

[@trollonme]

Dont you need some sort of tolerance between the threads so that the bolt can screw in properly?

[@MakerLessons]

It was in there originally, but for some reason when uploading my audio cut out during that section. Yes, include the tolerance that your printer needs, I start with .01in and mess around from there.