Let's Finish This Big Boi - Stowage, Rust And Mud For The T29E3

[@viktorfors3927]

Could you consider making a Swedish tank with in a snowy enviorment, i think this would be very cool

[@johannrothoff6897]

That would be awesome!

[@SteepPoppy0]

Plz the Stridsvagn 103

[@flyingchair8103]

I bet that you're from Sweden

[@viktorfors3927]

@@flyingchair8103 I sure am

[@flyingchair8103]

@@viktorfors3927 tjena en stirdsvagn 103C skulle kunna vara gansak intresant om man gjored en skottskada på gallret

[@DM-qm5sc]

I dont think you realize how amazing of an artist you are

[@eruseanaceshotya9945]

you probably have the best night shift in history

[@jacobhoekman6865]

There was more?

[@hotcreamyfart]

Yes, you and airplanes. I can imagine that.

[@markfergerson2145]

Hey, there's the infamous Russian flying tank...

[@hotcreamyfart]

@@markfergerson2145 kzbin.info/www/bejne/hqnMiIONqNuAjtk Custom build maybe?

[@wyattmartin9353]

I am so exited for this diorama

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

Working on a building for that diorama at the moment, and so far it seems it'll be epic! :)

[@briankwan9502]

Is it gonna be a t29 hull down on a hill?

[@genek8630]

@@NightShiftScaleModels I seen a very interesting video of either a T-29, or T-30 ( I'm going towards the T-30). Firing a Fin Missle at Aberdeen. Anyway if your interested it's on a site called Nuclear Vault, and the video is "This is Aberdeen- The Big Picture." It's at about 19:36 in the video.

[@peghead]

I've never seen more realistic weathering, the exhaust @:42 is mindblowing, as are the other surfaces, pioneer tools, etc. I spent many of my 42 years as an industrial painter and have observed countless painted steel surfaces in this stage of deterioration and in dire need of recoating, Night Shift nails it.

[@jacobakana5649]

So many big boys, Jagdtiger, BMR-3, T-29 E3... Can I expect a P.1000 Ratte next? I still love the camouflage on this one, I can’t wait to see the diorama and figures!

[@Ty-qx1ui]

"...me and airplanes, can you imagine that?" Please!!!

[@austinbeldyga1357]

YES PLEASE

[@neboskii8756]

Uncle Night shift is the best tank modeling mentor

[@objekt2686]

i don't have an education in rust physics, but i know that yes, a lot of cast steel does produce rust a lot slower than regular steel/iron, due to high amounts of carbon required to get the desired strength and form. The sideeffect of having such high value of carbon is that it makes it theoretically impossible to weld, but it is possible in practice if the welder is very skilled.

[@thewingedporpoise]

1:30 "like a fist to the eye" that's quite the metaphor, really evocative

[@crazywarriorscatfan9061]

I will never understand how you weather and chip tanks so well. This model (along with a lot more of yours) deserves to be in a museum.

[@Chris-ry3sd]

You know the weekend has started when nighstift Edit: how tf did I get the first veiw

[@8yearoldwithagun426]

Twisted copper/lead wire is great for all sizes of rope. You just get a few strands, twist the end together and put it into a drill, then hold the other end and turn the drill on. It can take a few tries to get right but it's perfect looking for ropes and cables

[@chempeg]

Possible rope tip. Take some sewing thread, coat it in Elmer's White Glue, and work it in by twisting with the grain of the thread. If it gets too stiff to work with, it can be softened with water. Excellent videos.

[@Metroidf4n]

I use nylon yarn commonly used for sewing, never really had to deal with fuzz, cotton based yarn is fuzzy.

[@a.t.4634]

I use cotton dipped in pva. But once it's dry, I give it a very quick flame over with a lighter. Only issue is you either have to flame it before assembly, or be extra-careful

[@jilthunder2276]

Hello uncle night shift, here comes my tip for ropes & strings: there is no better material for this than ropes for sailing ship models, which are available in every better hobby store or online. They are designed especially for small scale models and therefore without any fuzzy effect at all. And they even are available in different sizes / diameters! Best regards, Jil Thunder from Germany

[@bobbyenache7652]

I have been watching your channel for about 6 months now, and I am happy to say it has inspired me (at the age of 47 ) to started modeling planes once again. Watching what can only be described as pure mastery of your craft, Yes Mah friend I would be more then great-full on your take on a F-16 please. Thank you and keep up the art.

[@williamphillips6779]

To deal with the fuzz from the thread, try an old ship-modeling trick: run the thread across a piece of beeswax before using it. if it works for a 1:200 scale sailing ship, it will work for a 1:35 scale rope as well. another great Friday, thanks!

[@THROTTLEPOWER]

Very nice!!!!!! Really enjoyed, thanks foe sharing........... 👍😊

[@slendrick]

My favourite days in week - friday and tuesday. Tuesday new manga chapters incoming, friday new videos from uncle Night Shift. Sounds like a little everyweek goals for me/ Thanks for another good friday!

[@Rube7361]

I feel like whatever model you choose for your builds, quickly is sold out of all the stores online..people must be watching, mimicking and building..👍🏼

[@jerryvolpini7987]

Turned out great 👍 Can't wait to see you tackle figures, not to mention, a base!!!

[@ryanbruner8928]

You are 100% correct,Dark Yellow is terrible to rust,as everything stands out so much! Can't wait until next Friday!

[@masterofthelag8414]

It's looking pretty great! And, despite the joke you made about planes, I dunno about everyone else but personally I'd love to see what you'd come up with if you had a go at an aircraft of some sort!

[@Simoncressey99]

For ropes I use 0.5mm braided jewellery wire. I gives a good effect and it tends to take shaping well. Cool video 👍

[@lwgrazi]

Yet another Night Shift, meaning my weekend has started. Thank you.

[@ecconomicus]

Night Shift gave more attention to painting backpacks, than I gave to paint entire tank :)

[@flyingscotsman9657]

challenge: make a factory fresh tank - no (well, maybe a little) chipping, rust, mud and faded paint. It would be interesting to see what you can find to do on the vehicle and how you would paint clean tracks. or you could try a wheeled vehicle - there would be a lot of mud splashes and it would be nice to see how you would paint large quantities of rubber like on your sharotank

[@ScottM]

This tank turned out awesome. Great work and looking forward to the next video.

[@SteveJonesScaleModellingSite]

Another great video NS. I use nylon thread for ropes which doesnt go "fuzzy". Also rigging cord from model ship suppliers which comes in all different diameters.

[@lordofchaos6852]

Another stellar model dude. Sorry but I love the stowage rope. The fuzyness makes it very realistic.

[@CetoFreakingKaiba]

i have found that the best rope/towing cable material is that synthetic string thingy that came (idk if it still comes) with tamiya armor kits. It has slightly different feel than regular sewing string (looks a bit more glossy). It holds its shape perfectly with super glue and the texture is amazing

[@rcguy7985]

Yeah soooo, I never knew this tank existed and now I'm a fan of it as well. I did some quick research to find some photos of the full-size tank and it turns out that a full-size one is about an hour from my house at a museum. I'll be heading that way soon to get as many reference photos as I can. Great vids by the way!

[@riffler24]

Hmm, your old stowage color before it got repainted almost looked like well-used pigskin. Looks good in its own right

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

Could work for a medieval US Army GI then :D

[@LeknackMasque]

Hi Martin, to make good ropes use silk bead cord or perlseide made in Germany under the brand Griffin. Always amazing work, cheers

[@karlschumacher6699]

Just checked out your perlseide recommendation, numerous micro diameters and looks really good, thanks!

[@bob_._.]

To de-fuzz thread you could try stretching it out and quickly running a flame over it to burn off the fuzz. No guarantee, but worth a shot. But what you've got there does look sort of like what we called binder twine or baler twine; a sisal-type twine that could be period correct. It's since been superseded by nylon and stuff.

[@hugoshobbies1688]

9:51 ...yeah letting the paint flow upwards back in the bottle without it leaving stains on the plaette. You clearly are a magician wich explains why your models are so outstandingly good. It just can't have anything to do with the fact that you're spending at least 10 or 20 times more time into echt model as I do ^^

[@StevenRafael268]

those antennas are the coolest thing ive ever seen.

[@RaffIchNed84]

You really nailes OD3 for those musette bags!

[@mrbeast85]

3:18 For tiny ropes on models I've used silk thread/string (mine is 0.6 mm thick from a company called Beadalon) in the past. You can get it in most general hobby stores, usually in the vast bead and necklace section most seem to have and it comes in different thicknesses. Its a little expensive for what you get compared to ordinary cotton thread but there's more than enough for a couple of vehicles. It does look like miniature rope though and has no discernible 'fuzz'.

[@timothyoffenbacher6190]

Best in-scale rope to use: Dental floss (unwaxed and preferably unused).

[@Haakon_The_Viking]

I've recently jumped ship from being a wargamer and miniature painter to making my first tank model (Sherman M4A3E8 loosely based on Fury). Never thought that tank modelling would be this big of a change, and this difficult in comparison. Your videos gave me many inspirations and helped with the most difficult things.

[@user-dc1nj4qb8e]

God! Its soooooo great, what a pleasure to watch, Thank You, Martin

[@emilefourielamprecht1460]

I love your videos i could watch them for a week straight.They are so satisfying for me Thanks Night shift cant wait for the next

[@sandergjertsenstvold1051]

Tips: For tiny ropes on models, try recurve bow end / centre serving string. Search for "BCY 2S" as an example.

[@asteck113]

In Love Death and Robots There is an episode of a Special Soviet Unit that is trying to annihilate a burrow of ghouls. To avoid spoilers, but get to my suggestion: Why not make a T-34 or KV-1 diorama with 3-4 Soldiers firing around the Tank. You could even look into getting mini’s of bodies of fellow soldiers, get into gore on the white snow for contrast. Maybe even look into getting Mini’s that look like the ghouls in the animation! Just a suggestion man, keep up the great work

[@chrispiazza7487]

I've been in and out of the hobby for 40 tears. You are the best I've ever seen,

[@thegunbox81]

You have way out surpassed that Adam Wilder guy by a long shot!

[@AM_miniatures_painter]

A good tip how to make a rope? Use a cooper towing cables for tank models. Very flexible and looks like a rope. Regards!

[@hansvandermeer7635]

9:50 You used the very rare reverse pouring technique! 😜

[@andyfettes6000]

Tiny rope ! you can get ship builders rope or make your own by twisting two lengths of thin wire in a pin vice :) Love your videos mate

[@StickTheGlue]

For rope on my tanks I use regular sewing thread or thin bailing twine, you don't get the fly away fibres you get with the heavier duty strings

[@northgaming5841]

I just finished my first tank model. I started modelling because of your videos. I have a lot to learn but damn is it fun and enjoyable. Thank you for helping me find a hobby in these difficult times.

[@JimmyJohnsCupSeries]

This is why fridays are the best

[@johnnycooper7019]

Dear Martin, Outstanding!

[@felipecardoza9967]

"A fist to the eye" has entered my vocabulary.

[@sferguson1130]

Not sure if you’ve tried it yet, but braided fishing line, is fantastic, for rope. It doesn’t fray at all. It’s extremely strong, so it’s not fragile, to work with. Last but not least, because of the material used, you get extremely thin “rope”, for scale accuracy, while still being braided. Check it out! Just don’t try and cut it with regular scissors. It needs to be cut with serrated scissors, to avoid the ends unbraiding. I use braided line scissors, for fishing, because I fish lol, so I’ve never tried with a knife blade. On the packaging, it will tell you the diameter of the line as well, so you can match it, to your preferred wire gauge. Check it out!

[@Ryuondo]

As a miniature painter, I can testify that a lot of shading in miniatures painting is just blocking in the shadows and then washing the whole kit and kaboodle to unify the colors a little better. The pro miniature painters would likely avoid the wash and go straight for glazing out the edges of the shadow to get those creamy blends. Also when black lining you can just pin wash it. That's what I do most of the time. I usually pin wash twice to get that strong contrast and then clean up any wash creep (since I use acrylic washes).

[@x3tc1]

Great video! For tiny ropes on models I can recommend to get some locking wire (or ~ 0.2mm copper wire). You take 3-5 of them depending on the thickness of the rope you are going for and then twirl them into each other like a rope. Can be accelerated by using a power tool. That's the way I usually make them. Edit: You can also use it as a basis for scale barbed wire. Take the same wire and twist it around the main strand every few milimeters and cut those parts to length. It's looks pretty realistc and is functional aka. be careful not to let it reip into your fingers. (Great to protect models from being touched by random people)

[@apathtrampledbydeer8446]

Susch a cool tank, the weathering on this one is superb as always!!

[@dalewood6812]

That's some fantastic modeling skills you have. I'm saving these for reference.

[@joeo.4546]

Great work as always. You're a big inspiration to me. You're American Tank videos are helping me a lot with my second model, a Tamiya E8 Sherman in 1/35

[@naknak2610]

This has been one of my favourite models you've done, it's awesome. Really good job, brilliant techniques and astonishing look. Keep up with the good work!!

[@user-vs5dt5ui3i]

always learn something new with you. Thank you for your work it is awesome.

[@robertomota1168]

You always teach us the best way to improve our model. Thanks for your videos and your time 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

[@EMTBonsai]

Great tip for the stowage! I've just started borders new crusader and have there Tiger for the next build so will be trying some of your techniques cheers!

[@G60syncro]

Don't mind the rope.... it looks like cheap baling rope like farmers use to tie hay bales or really chafed hemp rope.... the kind you wouldn't trust to lift an engine block over your head!! It makes it seem like they "borrowed" it from a farm during combat! I say BRAVO!!!

[@davidgolinsky]

Another awesome build! Martin you're my modeling inspiration. 👍

[@cross7983]

I don't build this type of plastic models, but I really enjoy seeing them built.

[@dogforeyals]

You make the hobby evem more amazing!!!

[@paralipsis]

An hour before watching this video I used an oil wash to reinforce the shadows on some gaming miniatures. It's not cheating because it's just the better tool for the job.

[@Modkits131]

@Nightshift, do you secretly play with your models when no one else is looking?🤔

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

You caught me in the act!

[@modkitmayhem]

Great video again.. stowage looks like a good way to practice techniques before moving on to figure painting! Looking forward to the next diorama videos 😀👍

[@gregbrowning5437]

Yes, please. A full oil-weathered project :) great idea.

[@jordyncollier919]

Uncle Night shift, I think you know what I'm gonna say next... NiGhT sHiFt, pLs Kv-2 wHeN??? Also, it's such an inspiration to watch these videos every friday. The skill that goes in to making these models, as well as the time, is astounding. Keep it up, brother.

[@tonyharwood8408]

Speckling - I call it splattering, has become a mainstay of my terrain painting techniques - thank you for that although it is messy - very messy. Tony

[@ManglingMinis]

Regarding a replacement for the twine as it was too fuzzy, you could maybe use braided fishing line? It's a type of fishing line used as an alternative to the normal nylon lines. It might have the sort of texture you're looking for without all the fuzz

[@garylawless3608]

This is truly art in miniature Uncle! I have thoroughly enjoyed this series and I am looking forward to the diorama. I can personally aspire to emulate your skills, but I don’t think I will achieve the same results. However, I will keep trying! Cheers from Australia!

[@bradleyt9]

This is incredible, truly.

[@silverdragontm9548]

To answer your question: yes, it was completely worth watching!

[@dadwaffle]

I don't know how well it would work for what you need, but if you want something a bit more pliable for your rope solution, you could try getting some 0.2mm ot similar metal jeweler's wire, cutting about 2-3 strands, and twisting it in either a pin vise or power drill. I've mostly used it for making cables/tow ropes/scale barbed wire core, but it might make passable rope. I think?

[@Rube7361]

Looks really good and perfect touch of weathering. Great project!! I look forward to your vids dropping!

[@TeoMaragakis]

Beautiful tank! Congrats!

[@pasikiiski]

Those tiny fuzzy ropes….. Traditional method among wooden ship modellers is to use beeswax. Pull the rope /thread/string throught the block of beeswax and then heat it gently over the candle or with hairdryer. No fuzziness after that and thread is also easier to get throught needle-eyes and small holes.

[@PhuVet]

Nice reverse pour on the mud wash

[@terrynicholls2975]

Good grief, man. This is incredible work!

[@pauls414]

For ropes I always used thin wires (0,1mm, depending on the scale) and then twist like 10 of them together using a cordless screwdriver. Works quite nicely and when you use enough and thin enough wires it looks pretty realistic

[@alexeyvolosach]

Incredible work!

[@Deceter]

I'm gunna watch out for that first to the eye from here on in!

[@nocturne777]

A good material for tiny ropes is jewelry chain, like what you can use to make costume jewelry necklaces. They made braided versions that look like pretty in-scale rope.

[@fonesrphunny7242]

Sewing machines ... they have a second thread coming from a silver roll in the bottom. That stuff might be a bit smoother as to not catch on anything (only have vague memories of our old complicated sewing machine). Or maybe you could burn any fuzz with a very swift pass with a lighter. How effective that is might depend on the thread material.

[@otm646]

You realize that the sewing machine bobbin is just thread wound around the bobbin? It can be any color or thread size.

[@TheRyatt]

Awesome build Martin. Cant wait for the diorama

[@Broeckhoest]

truly incredible detail, Art with an A, chapeau

[@cookie842]

God-tier work.

[@panzer-meister]

Beautiful finish as usual. I enjoy watching your work every time.

[@erickirwan8703]

That's a beauty. I've really enjoyed watching this build series👍

[@styrenehelp]

Every video I watch of yours leaves me mesmerised.

[@ScottKenny1978]

For rope, you could try using very thin copper wire, two or three strands all twisted together. 3 strands would be more realistic. Another option would be viscose nylon embroidery thread. Tall ship gamers use that for rigging 1/1200 ships. Check the Langton miniatures rigging guide online for more details.

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

I used this trick for the steel rope on that BMR-3. It looks great, but unfortunately, it's not flexible enough, especially when you need to wrap it around something several times and twist a knot :(

[@ScottKenny1978]

@@NightShiftScaleModels the nylon thread will work really well for that. The Langton guide has the sizes and colors listed.

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

@@ScottKenny1978 That sounds great, if it works for ship modellers it will definitely work for armor. I'll take a look at those, thanks!

[@waynedaly1718]

Try running your thread through a block of wax...kills the fuzz. Or use waxed thread instead. It will still take paint. Easier still is nylon or polyester thread. Great model yet again. Gday from Australia mate