Lidl jump starter vs. 2.0 TDI diesel in winter

Today, let's see if the 500A peak jumpstarter power bank from Lidl (UMAP 12000 A2) can start a 2 liter diesel engine in Škoda Octavia 2.0 TDI with a totally flat battery in winter after standing for several cold weeks in about -10°C.
The unboxing and teardown of this jumpstarter:
• 500A Car Jump Starter ...
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[@NullPointer]

Lidl should start sponsoring your videos)

[@vaclavtrpisovsky]

Well, here is a translation of all the Czech (italics=uncertain, ■=Daniel, ⊙=driver): 1:49 (?) _Nothing..._ 1:50 ⊙ Now it's _in_ black, _all dark..._ 2:03 ⊙ Nothing at all, nothing. 2:08 ⊙ It didn't light up, nothing happened. 2:11 ⊙ Now it's not getting any power at all. 2:27 ⊙ _[...turning]_ the key, the indicators lit up. 2:32 ⊙ So now I'm starting it. 2:35 ■ And it's running! We've made it!

[@LawpickingLocksmith]

And one last one dedicated to Herbert Diess: Kurva heisst Scheisse hier im Osten!!

[@LMB222]

@@LawpickingLocksmith who is Herbert Diess?

[@Conservator.]

Incredible that such a small pack could start that engine in freezing temperatures with a completely flat battery. Nothing short of amazing

[@fullmetaljacket7]

I used to use even smaller packs for this. 3 cell 2200mah 30c lipos. No protection or anything. Straight up to the battery terminals. They can turn the engine over even without the lead acid battery connected.

[@cekpi7]

@@fullmetaljacket7 It really depends on the car and conditions. I measured about 75A of current to start my 1.2L engine in summer so they would probably start that. Bigger diesel engine like the one he shows at -10C is probably drawing somewhere around 200A.

[@fullmetaljacket7]

@@cekpi7 biggest engine I tried that was a 2.0 turbo diesel from a vitara. It could probably do better than that but I'm pretty sure it would wear down the cells very quick. The discharge rate on those hobby grade lipos are insane.

[@Conservator.]

@@fullmetaljacket7 Some use li-Po but the Lidl one uses LiFePO4. That chemistry can handle high very discharge rates with much less risk of starting to fire up itself instead of the engine 😉

[@groundzero_-lm4md]

I would use it to charge the car battery for a few mins then start it. Lipo's can't do as much current as regular car batteries.

[@FindLiberty]

Yes. 3:26 It's best to wait a few minutes to allow the car's own battery to charge up from the power bank unit. Then together, they can provide much more peak current to get the engine started. That also reduces the demand and risk of damage to power bank.

[@alcyhodzic8259]

Love your channel! Greetings from Slovenia :) I learn alot from you.

[@abudabidibibudi]

kanal mu je boli glava :P al dobar je lik po malo zeza al nema veze poz iz CG

[@lmwlmw4468]

I have a jump starter without any protection but with space inside the housing of those transistors, so I manage to put two more in parallel. Yesterday I went to help by brother-in-law with his car and everything went good, his battery went to 5.6 V after he tried to turn his car on, but my little jumper got it. Great video.

[@vojta4577]

Za tu snahu o angličtinu dávám like 😅

[@DuroLabs85]

Pls keep uploading like this frequently :D

[@wuukaa9079]

Waking up to see a new video from DiodeGoneWild :)

[@martinlintzgy1361]

My immediate thought when seeing this was "not a hope" Pleased to be wrong. Love your presentation

[@Zebra_Paw]

I was waiting for it...

[@georgesmouchet774]

God, DGW! Real cold, real car, common device! Even if it failed, ur video would've bee a success - but it succeeded! DGW u're a genius!

[@adamsoucek4140]

I was waiting for new video :)

[@andyowl]

Zrovna jdu na to u svýho auta. :D díky za super návod!

[@Mavi222]

This thing saved me couple of times already.

[@EgonSorensen]

Just don't leave it in the car until you need it. Batteries self-deplete/discharge faster in high heat in summer, and chemistry freezes during winter resulting in a low-performing pack if left for long.

[@maciejsmyk5914]

I love your voice and this beautifull czech accent. Love from Poland! :D

[@MuhammadDaudkhanTV100]

Great full ideas and good work

[@poptartmcjelly7054]

the legs on the MOSFET are thin but the bond wires inside are even thinner, and you can actually see that the solder near the tarnished pin was actually molten.

[@DashCamSerbia]

Yeah, but made of gold.

[@poptartmcjelly7054]

@@DashCamSerbia gold is less conductive than copper

[@Broken_Yugo]

The bond wires are shorter though, that's how they live.

[@maticz3923]

@@poptartmcjelly7054 Are you sure? I always thought that gold is a better conductor

[@rpbajb]

@@maticz3923 Copper is better than gold. Silver is best.

[@jms019]

I'm impressed !

[@MichalKottman]

"A jede to!" Great success

[@tontoscout9974]

Good Vid . Well Done

[@JPDicamVlogs]

The video that I am waiting for

[@Rosenrot_raccoon]

No teda, Lidl mě překvapil.

[@WagTsX]

It's a very good device to always have fully charged in the glove compartment for emergencies, but if I remember correctly, you should keep it away from people, so no one can sit in the passenger seat.

[@pizzablender]

I'd rather store it in a not so cold place.

[@mfbfreak]

@@pizzablender Lithium batteries seem to age slower in cold environments, but rapidly deteriorate in hot ones. Aside from that, storing fully charged also reduces life span. So whenever you don't need it (you probably don't need it in spring/summer/autumn, and when you use the car multiple times per week), it's best to not keep it fully charged (but only about half way). Only keep it fully charged in winter, when you need the full capacity to start the car.

[@teardowndan5364]

A frozen LiPo battery will not perform anywhere as good as a warm one, so you really should keep those indoors if you live somewhere with cold winters. It is the same reason many EVs have heaters to keep their battery pack above something like -10C to ensure they can deliver sufficient current for predictable acceleration. You shouldn't leave LiPo in glove boxes during summer either as peak cabin temperature in direct sunlight can get dangerously high too.

[@laszlovona]

Haha 😂😂 good one.

[@lazy3642]

@@mfbfreak I thought also that i could need a jump starter in winter instead of summer, but, guess what: On August 3rd this year (around 24 degrees Celsius outside temperature, as i live in Athens area, Greece) during morning start up of my car's engine (Opel Astra H 1.8 petrol) the 55AH battery (4 years and 8 months old) was totally dead. Even dashboard lights were off when turning the car key to on position. Luckily i had an old (8 years old) jump starter (11000mAh) inside luggage compartment of the car, which i had a few weeks ago fully charged (although it doesnt hold charging capacity like when it was new, because of batteries ageing). It managed to crank the engine (not easily but it did), so i could reach to the nearest battery shop (which was 2,5 km away from my home). When the electrician tested the old car battery with a tester, it was found 1% healthy (meaning it was completely dead) and only 60A peak current instead of 520A (of a new battery 55AH). Old battery's voltage, after trying to crank the engine, was measured to 12,35V (which is not what one could imagine). So the conclusion is that it is possible for a driver to need a jump starter to jump start a car's engine, even in Greek summer weather conditions, like i did.

[@giovannimarino4464]

It is a powerful tiny appliance!

[@ErCanEverything]

Thank you for the explanation my Friend🙂🤝🤝🤝🍀🍀🍀

[@AnandKumar-ym9yw]

You waited for winter to test. 😏👍👍👍

[@InfrastructuraRomania]

Very interesting!!

[@MuhammadDaudkhanTV100]

Awesome arts

[@electrostar9949]

WOOOOOOOW Diode

[@electrostar9949]

OK

[@Pirelli.]

Great. Thanks!

[@NewElGatoDany]

Me causa gracia su acento XD, son muy buenos sus vídeos

[@jamesharte8390]

Lovely VW tractor sound

[@aicisha]

Thank you for the test! Did anyone else noticed the little bug walking on the right side of the screen on the cardboard?

[@DiodeGoneWild]

I noticed it when editing :).

[@Nikola_W211]

I bought an ultimate speed 12v car battery charger from lidl i have it for years and i didnt have an issues i also got an powerfix digital multimeter it works great after years.

[@Fridelain]

You could add solder all the way to the mosfets, and some heatsink on top.

[@IanSlothieRolfe]

My experience with jump starting cars has been that it is always a good idea to connect the jump pack and leave it connected for a couple of minutes to charge the car battery, as the car battery will assist greatly with the start. You should also keep jump packs indoors particularly lithium ones as while freezing a lithium battery actually preserves it because it slows its internal chemistry, it also prevents it from generating much current. So don't keep your lithium pack in the car!

[@ak420-]

Bullsit disconnect the cables as soon as the engines run if the engine cant sustain itself you got a problem with the generator. By leaving it on or attaching it wrong you can mess with new cars electronics so no.

[@chocolate_squiggle]

@@ak420- You misunderstood. Ian wasn't suggesting to charge up your lithium pack afterwards with the alternator. He was suggesting that you might choose to leave both batteries connected to each other a few minutes BEFORE attempting to start the vehicle, in order to allow the lithium pack to put some charge into the lead acid battery. It depends on the state of the lead acid but in many cases this is a good idea. It will lower the stress on the electronics in these cheap jumper packs considerably.

[@therealfox]

Nice that it worked. Maybe its time for a new battery for the skoda. Also you could insulate the car battery, so its better protected from cold.

[@gordonwedman3179]

When you use insulation you are trying to separate two areas that are at different temperatures. If the battery is at -20C and the outside of the insulation is also -20C nothing is going to be gained. You need a heat source next to the battery.

[@spaceman51974]

For cold weather, go with the Lokithor J401X with built in battery warmer. Project Farm tested many of these in detail.

[@vedo_tri9010]

a little bit of smooooke comming from heeeeeere. i love your accent

[@bogdansofalca6946]

hello Diode, thanks for all your videos. When disconnecting the power bank isn't it safer to unplug the GND lead first ? (GND in car is connected to chassis and one could make a short if disconnecting the + first and then touching the chassis)

[@XFrendX]

right, but there is a shortage protection. That's the sense of the small auxiliary device connected from side to the power bank.

[@Langendimi555]

Any idea what the current was while cranking? All that current handled by those 2 tiny mosfets. That's impressive!

[@DiodeGoneWild]

I only have a 100A clamp meter, so I didn't even try to measure it. But I think it definiety was couple hundreds at least.

[@michaelfisher9671]

I attempted to measure the starting current on my diesel truck last weekend. I couldn’t do it because my meter doesn’t update fast enough. The peak current was so quick that it didn’t register on the meter before the truck started.

[@dogwalker666]

I had to replace the main battery on my 2.0L HDI Hybrid and I clamped the new battery at 245A cold -4C my Dads 1.8L Ford Diesel was 167A

[@vasekhorcicka5007]

Maybe better solution would be to use some low ohm current shunt and measure voltage drop with oscilloscope

[@dogwalker666]

@@vasekhorcicka5007 actually if you want to use a scope but it's risky ( fall, drop, crunch, owch) the volt drop on the starter cable will be enough to give useful data. I just use a hall effect HEME clamp meter 1000A. It was expensive but I need it for work.

[@Fridelain]

The one that Big Clive took apart had way more transistor (or diodes in transistor package, I don't remember).

[@DIYwithBatteries]

I'm kinda curious about these types of stuffs :D

[@zx8401ztv]

Lidl and Aldi do sell some handy tools, and a lot of crap as well lol :-D

[@DiodeGoneWild]

Mostly not so bad :). I'm just analyzing an LED from Lidl that failed after half a year, but I have multiple other LEDs from Lidl that run for 5 - 6 years and still fine.

[@BlackWolf42-]

I've got some EC5 connectors, I want to remove the "protection box" and hook the clamp leads directly to the jump box. You do it 1st, please. :) ofc, you'll have to be vigilant in removing the clamps once the car starts and only connect it for short periods to the dead car.

[@patrikjankovics2113]

I think keeping the reverse polarity didoe would still be a good idea. Also, as others have mentioned, connecting the jump starter and leaving it for a couple of minutes helps it a lot.

[@moonlover5544]

A jede to, teď se podařilo :D

[@Chuckiele]

With a completely flat battery it might be a good idea to disconnect the battery as the tiny power bank could never charge it up to a useful voltage.

[@TomaszStachewicz]

As for starting description: the battery pack seems to be LiFePo4 (12.8V = 4 * 3.2V), not Li-ion. You probably even mentioned that in original teardown video :)

[@Chuckiele]

Well, LiFePo4 is one type of Li-ion among several other types. But yeah, its quite the outlier because of its lower voltage.

[@konstman4313]

This isn't LiFePo but ordinary 3S or 4S Lipo high current battery rated 3.7V nominal /4.25V max per one equal to used in RC models.

[@LMB222]

@@konstman4313 it's 4x lifepo , not 3x li-ion

[@lifeai1889]

Can you test a supercap jumpstarter

[@Cadwaladr]

Just charging up the car battery seems to help a lot. That's how I got my car started the other day when it was -20C. I just have a plug in charger, but 20 minutes of charging was enough for the car to start, after failing on the first try. Then of course I had to let it run another 20 minutes to let the ice melt off of it.

[@gordonwedman3179]

Charging will also warm up the battery and this helps. When I lived in a colder area I had a battery blanket as well as a. Block heater.

[@eDoc2020]

IIRC Electroboom did this to start a car using some AA batteries.

[@jdcompany2019]

Škoda!

[@hernancoronel]

How many cells does the charger have? I am looking locally for a similar one and with the quantity of cells it may be easier to find one. Thanks for the great video!

[@DiodeGoneWild]

It's 4 LiFePO4 cells in series, 3.2V each. In the description there's a link to the detailted teardown of it.

[@alexanderzohrens2945]

'Did you test it with the jump-starter also being very cold (storing at minus 10 degrees)?

[@andreferreira7413]

Niceeeee!

[@godfreypoon5148]

Did you hear about the guy who went to the spare parts store and asked for a windscreen wiper for his Skoda? They did not have any in stock.

[@hovno964]

Danyk, Do you know how long the jump starter battery last if not charged? 1 month? Few months? 14 days? I red this type of baterry has a significant self discharge and is almost not possible to use after 2 weeks in a shelf

[@DiodeGoneWild]

I think about a year... the self discharge isn't that fast.

[@Randombourg]

Can I use any charger to change it, or is it essential to use the supplied charger, would really like to charge or top up from a USB port in the car at the start of a long journey?

[@diyordie7431]

powiodło się :)

[@AgentOffice]

I miss my TDI

[@DashCamSerbia]

EGR works now?

[@cocospops9351]

Your accent is awesome. You sound kinda like a Cork man 😂

[@willrobbinson]

THE fet legs are the week link prob was smoke sauce , pos cauld add some copper strands soldered up to body , but its prob part deliberately left as doubles as fuse ? still bloody good result cannot complain it worked !!!

[@Andrei9thouzen]

I wounder if this can help start a 3.0L engine, just by leting it charg the battery and crancking without it connected. (audi q7 2007)

[@atalakeanumonarshi129]

Where’s the 2001 Škoda Fabia 1,9 L SDI ? I would love to see it started using this jump - starter :-D ( maybe it’ll start up a little easier since it looked a lot simpler / not much electronic inside to drain it up a little quicker { on your Danyk666’s video about your Škoda Fabia reaching 200.000 km } )

[@DiodeGoneWild]

I haven't driven if for about 3 weeks. It disappeared under all the snow :D. Yesterday I dug it out and tried to start it. It immediately started, so the jumpstarter wasn't needed :). I drove it to a supermarket... Lidl, of course! I filled the car to the roof with food for another 3 weeks :D. And of course, some LED lamps, batteries and other things for my bunker to survive this zombie-19 apocalypse!

[@voltlog]

Surprising results, I would have never trusted that pack to start the 2.0 tdi with a flat battery.

[@ayyadew]

Do you know!!! Diode gone wild has a second KZbin channel

[@ToBeDefined85]

Which one?

[@koharaisevo3666]

@@ToBeDefined85 The channel name "danyk666"

[@atalakeanumonarshi129]

@@ToBeDefined85 Danyk666 :-)

[@ToBeDefined85]

@@atalakeanumonarshi129 Ah my Czech is not that great 😂

[@benfriel12]

Where are you from?

[@pivox]

Do you think it would handle 4,6 V8 Northstar engine? :-D

[@baileymattson4940]

It almost looks like it just burned what looks like conformal coating near the fets

[@thisone1697]

👍

[@tocrob]

Lithium jump starters struggle in freezing temperatures. The first or second attempt may fail but it will warm up the lithium battery. That's why the second attempt starts the vehicle on first crank easily.

[@chocolate_squiggle]

But this only applies if the pack is stored in the car? I guess he took this Lidl starter from inside his heated home. Most cars will be easier to start second time cranking, first go loosens everything up a bit.

[@LMB222]

Yes, they have a horrible capacity to temperature function.

[@-yeme-]

actually pretty impressive, sub-zero diesels can be pigs to start

[@JoseSilveira-newhandleforYT]

Absolutely amazing! I would never expect such a small lithium pack would be able to even move the crankshaft one complete turn, in freezing temperatures! It's the best publicity Lidl could have to that product. I will look at it more respectfully whenever they sell it again!

[@Gelo9623]

This is the first time when I hear DGW speaking Czech

[@LarryKapp1]

I couldn't get my VW Jetta 1.9 tdi started even when jumping it from truck. First diesel car I ever had Yesterday I installed 1000 watt tank heater on it but haven't tried it yet because I don't need to go anywhere . Temps here have been -23 c and colder at night for about a week. . My Toyota's have always started no matter how cold !

[@klave8511]

I had a similar problem with my Golf diesel, I used to pour boiling water over the engine to get it to start. I eventually found it only had one glow plug working. Replaced them (at huge expense) and it started beautifully after that.

[@LarryKapp1]

@@klave8511 I thought the glow plug lights on dash are supposed to tell you if they are out but I will check them sometime.

[@klave8511]

Well my Golf was a little older, the dash light showed when they had been heating long enough and I could start cranking.

[@jkvdv4447]

Really thought that was another Chinese scambox. Actually amazed it worked.

[@lukascarda5133]

HOOORRRRIBL INGLÍÍÍŠŠŠ kluci :D ale jinak dobrý :D

[@1marcelfilms]

Cheaper than buying new batteries for every car !

[@Tobim6]

Já to věděl že jsi z česka!

[@whoam42a1]

I had one of these, but it couldn't even start my little Peugeot 207, so it went to Lidl

[@expert2719]

Zdravím, Lidl začal prodávat nějakou novou revizi UMAP 12000 B2. Neví někdo jaký je rozdíl mezi A2 a B2?

[@Morpheus02000]

It's e me-euh Mariooo 😂

[@chelarestelar]

Aye

[@mdslm9406]

Is it dangeeeroooouus to opaaan??

[@erroraccount367]

Cranking sounds are bad for me but still better than nothing in case of you cant get any one to jump start you

[@zdenekzalis5916]

Start se povedl co dodat. Pokud je akumulátor starý na výměnu není problém. V případě, že akumulátor chcete dále používat pouze se náhodou vybil takovému startu bych se vyhnul. Co se děje po takovém startu? Zcela vybitý akumulátor se začne nabíjet proudem co dá alternátor. A on dá opravdu hodně není problém i proud nad 120 A Jediné co chrání akumulátor před těmito velkými dobíjecími proudy je jeho nabití. Výrobci akumulátorů nedoporučují instalaci vybitého akumulátoru do vozu právě z tohoto důvodu. Nastává jeho intenzivní degradace dokud se napětí na akumulátoru nezvýší a proud klesne na přijatelnou hodnotu. Jsou případy kdy tento proud nevydržely ani usměrňovací diody alternátoru.

[@serotonin336]

We want to see your face 😍😍

[@franzliszt8576]

He already did a face reveal

[@franzliszt8576]

On his website Danyk.cz

[@atalakeanumonarshi129]

@@franzliszt8576 Or go to his czech channel Danyk666. It has his entire face on the channel’s profile picture :-)

[@andycristea]

He has shown his face. Maybe it was his friend that was censored in the video.

[@serotonin336]

Thanks alot

[@williamjohansson691]

Can't you just connect the battery to the other battery? Who was the other person?

[@vaclavtrpisovsky]

Well, this is what the "adapter" does using the MOSFETs. So no great difference from a direct connection - you get a better conductivity but no short circuit protection. He would likely not connect the wires into the plug very well anyway, so his best chances at getting least resistance would be to use the existing connector and bridge the MOSFETs with a thick soldered wire. The assistant is likely a friend or neighbor of his. They do not live together, and no relationship was indicated in the Czech talk between them, other than somewhat colloquial speech. It might be the car's owner, as Danyk is well-known for his car/electronics repair skills in the neighborhood.

[@Mr11ESSE111]

he sings when he talk

[@piconano]

You should watch AvE's video from last week.

[@puckcat22679]

Yes, he tried to use it to start a 4.9L engine. That was never going to work on a totally flat battery there.

[@seamusfallon3104]

Can anyone translate what he is yapping about?

[@george911751]

TDi PD chytají v celku dobře. Common Rail by to nedalo.

[@DiodeGoneWild]

Ještě líp mi chytá 1.9 SDI rotačka ve fabii. Ta chytne na jednu otočku. Zato ségry 1.6 TDI commonrail v oktávce se fakt musí chvíli točit než chytne. Po vyčištění EGR o trochu lepší, ale stejně...

[@anyonecanmakeit718]

@diodegonewild Make videos on daily use electronics n toys

[@chelarestelar]

I would trust it more if it was lifepo4

[@tunahankaratay1523]

It is.

[@chelarestelar]

@@tunahankaratay1523 really? Well, I just read the "li-ion" on the box and assumed it wasn't. Good, then. And now that I think about it, I watched the previous vid and it probably was

[@andycristea]

@@chelarestelar He has a full teardown video showing the cells.

[@DiodeGoneWild]

It actually is (4x 3.2V 3Ah LiFePO4 in series).

[@weerobot]

Different..

[@sieciechczajka6554]

Dodgy or Super Dodgy? ;)

[@valdisblack1541]

2 weeks and the battery is dead completely? I think new video is coming: restoring Ca/Ca car battery with 16.5V charge! (I suppose this is Ca/Ca battery, who knows)

[@lovekush9103]

If you not using Car remove Battery from car

[@AmitabhAnkur]

@@lovekush9103 removing battery is best to do. Even if you cannot remove it you may disconnect it.

[@dogwalker666]

@@lovekush9103 not a great idea with modern cars as when you replace the battery the computer will require re-programming

[@lovekush9103]

@@dogwalker666 Old cars no Computer

[@dogwalker666]

@@lovekush9103 Oh classic cars, in that case yes it's a good idea.

[@laszlovona]

That is a pd isn't it?

[@DiodeGoneWild]

Yes, TDI-PD.

[@laszlovona]

@@DiodeGoneWild I had this engine in an Audi A3 back in the days, and I recognize the unique sound of PD 'injectors' when cold. ☺👍 turned out to be a very reliable engine. PD stuff can be rehauled and the bottom end is very robust. Many thousands of them are running nowadays over 0.5 million km, and will keep on counting.

[@DolezalPetr]

ŇŮ KAMERÁÁ ?!?!?!?! EPIC UPGRADE