It's Broken - Lidl Ultimate Speed Jump Pack

[@astragreen]

Great device have it for years started my 1.6 cc Astra no problem whatsoever on the package it says what size Engine it is designed for definitely not for large size engines, be weary of these ‘electronic’ experts and their narrative, they are like a rash and are all over KZbin, like all electronic devices Keep the Guarantee Lidl is terrific when it comes to getting your money back, I’d give it 10 out of 10!.

[@johndk9jc354]

Thank you for showing the inside of the pack. This is a LiFePo4 battery with 3,2V nominal per cell (=12,8V total). The 5 leads on the balance connector indicates a 4 cell pack which is standard on LiFePo4 due to a lower cell voltage compared to regular 3S LiPo or LiIon packs.

[@ElectronicStuff]

Hi, thank you for that info, thinking about it that would make sense, so maybe best not to use a balance charging board on it that is ment for LiIon batterys, tho I havent noticed any bad side affects from using that to balance the 3 cells that do work yet

[@johndk9jc354]

@@ElectronicStuff A BMS for LiPo or LiIon is not suitable. The cutoff voltage of a LiPo is 4,2V and 3.6V on the LiFePo4. With 4,2V you risk fire and a massive wear. Luckily the LiFePo4 is chemical much more stable and does not catch fire as fast as a LiPo. Using a non-LiFePo4 BMS is dangerous though. Yesterday I bought the 12.000mAh Version in my local LIDL here in Germany. It was 59.95 Euro. Looking forward seeing how it goes.

[@StepperByStepper]

I have a similar charger from Lidl and it was a Lipo in mine. Lifepo4 wont be used for starting a car, dont think you are right on this.. lifepo4 you can get a 3c discharge, but never what is needed for starting a car,lipo gives you 20c+ discharge

[@alanjones3993]

@@StepperByStepper Hi I also have the Lidl Ultimate speed1200A2, it states in the description (LiFePO4)

[@StepperByStepper]

@@alanjones3993 Well its not! Its defenetly a LiPo in mine...

[@mickerai3618]

to repair it just make a bridge on the negative terminal between the mass of the usb socket and the mass of the battery charging socket (not the battery outlet socket) work for me and now the power battery is ready

[@ElectronicStuff]

thanks for the info, I decided not to bother repairing it as I had little use for the product at the time

[@Biturbo47]

Can you say me if there is a diode in the black socket which plugs into the bank to prevent the battery from receiving 14V from the alternator once the vehicle is started? If not then I will connect directly with 2 clamps to my old RC Lipo batteries

[@mickerai3618]

the bridge on the negative is temporary, it just allows you to start the charge after you can remove it

[@Leeandangie]

Bought one used less than five times to start motorcycles and charge my phone etc.I think I made the mistake of letting it be on constant charge for a few days. Totally dead now and in hindsight a total waste of money. Receipts long gone now and I've had it just over a year if that.Wish I had spent the money now on something useful like wine haha.Great video keep up the good work

[@LosmiPZS]

It's your fault not the manufacturer's..

[@Leeandangie]

@@LosmiPZS Why is it my fault,there's nothing in instructions saying you can't leave it plugged in!

[@peterzeboroff7448]

good diagnosing, there needs to be far more of these type of diagnosing and self repair of all these kinds of devices since the vast majority of all electronic devices are essentially manufactured to be disposable now but in many cases are repairable. With the fairly recent passing of laws for right to repair, most devices such as these power banks can be fairly easily repaired instead of ending up in the recycle or trash bins

[@michaelmedicworldoftanks33fps]

Hi there. I had exactly the same problem just different brand, mine was Powertech 400A lithium jumpstarter. I fixed today by completely pulling out the module board connected to battery by exactly same 4 wire connector like yours and opening the Little black box on the aligator clamps and soldering the negative wire's both ends to bypass the safety regulator as it was showing 14v on clamps but current would actually flow into the car battery that's why I soldered it to bypass that garbage that probably blew up already as I have used it brand new only twice but unfortunately lost my purchase receipt and wasn't able to return it to shop. So after I "tweaked" it my way the only problem was how to charge it with pulled out broken module and I solved that easy by cutting off the ends of it's 15V adapter charger and now I split the positive and negative wires apart and I just stick that into the copper points where the battery is where you got the 9v reading and where the alligator clips plug in and I charge it that way easily but since the alligator clamps are now in direct live contact with the battery I can also clamp the exposed adapter charger wires to the aligator clips however just sticking the wires into the holes is a bit safer method and I preffer that. Now it's all working and "boosting" my car battery the way it's supposed to do I just connected it to car battery and it's voltage jumped right away within 15 seconds from 12.4V to 13.8 and the device battery was around 13.9V before I connected it. I left it on there for about 2min and used my clamp amp meter to measure about 2A current flowing into the car battery, the pack didn't even get warm let alone hot. Before all this I used it only 2 times to start once some stranger woman's car at laundromat and few weeks ago my own and I decided it would be good idea like they recommend to get battery empty and charge it fully again so I turned on the inbuilt led light on it and left it On all night and next day it was completely dead but still showing 12v through copper points and when I plugged the charger in it was fkashing blue light as if charging but after 5h of charging it was still showing 12v and that's when I 1st decided to pull it apart and then to try sticking charging wires directly to copper points and it worked I got it charged but it still didn't fix the usb module and power button led flashlight so I had to do what I have done and it will start the car now. I thought the batteries might have been in sleep state and once half charged they will activate the safety cut off module board but it wasn't the case. I simply had to get rid off the board and solder the aligator negative wire inside little black box as that wasn't working either and was showing always red light instead of green light, so yeah it's been a long learning experience for me but just to be on the safe side I realise now that whenever I use it to jump start the car I must very quickly remove it from car battery as the alternator will keep changing it otherwise but another alternative safe method to use this now would be to plug it onto your flat car battery and with a voltmeter watch the car battery rising and once it rises to anything above 12.3V there is no need to have that connected then just disconnect it and you should be able to start your car if your battery is on 12v or anything above 12v it must and will start. That's why the manual for it says if your car battery is much lower than 12v to leave that lithium pack connected for at least 30+ seconds before cranking your car so that car's battery voltage has enough time to raise it's own voltage because really it's how those lithium jump starters work or what they call "boost" your battery. All the boost button does is connects your car battery to the device directly for 30 seconds before cutting off for safety and you have to press the button again and there is nothing else to it, it's a simple process the current will flow from higher voltage to lower voltage and that's it. I hope you find this helpful and fix yours too.

[@Laughinggray]

mine shows exact the same symptoms. I opened the case and took everything out, the PCB looks fine, I've no idea what went wrong with this thing. Now I'm just wondering what would happen if I attach the battery to an empty car battery while trying to start?

[@ElectronicStuff]

Probably not a good idea, tho the wires are connected directly to the battery, but you need the little safety box thats on the jump leads connected

[@Laughinggray]

@@ElectronicStuff OK, thanks.

[@fereidoonjamshidi4366]

Every think ok with my upbs 8000a1.when conect to car battery flshing red light and beeping sound.what is the problem.

[@GarrayFigura]

Hi. min problem is that the usb connector has come off / unsoldered. Do you know what its reference for to order a new one and solder it? thank you so much

[@suzanne970]

Ive had mine for a few years got me out of problems when needing to start car but like your has just stopped working as well :( now need to buy a new one

[@Litesnip2022]

I was going to get one of these but I think I won't bother. Great video

[@robertkandharsingh448]

I have the same one, and it looks like the battery is dead. Where can I get the battery?

[@andrejozilinek6707]

I have the 12,000 and it stopped charging. Looking around how to open it without breaking the housing. Many thanks for the video

[@anz3786]

I got the charging port missing is it easy to fix,n thanks for the video

[@kennethsivins5817]

Clever man nice video

[@MrDann0]

The one I got from lid is a different model ultimate speed UP 10 B1, has given up it won't hold a charge anymore I only used it maybe less than 5 times just to charge a mobile phone. Don't waste your time and money.

[@materados9343]

How long you use this device before broken

[@paulfromnewcastle9522]

Got one on Friday (snow)at the clearance part in Lidi was thinking of putting it back was £30 🤔 . Not working the same problem, charging up press on nothing HAPPENING! 😳 Thanks for the video 🤗♥️♥️👍

[@andrewpatrick7464]

3yr gtee, why not take it back???

[@StepperByStepper]

Its not a LiFePo4, its lipo that can offer so much energy, lifepo4 cant, I actually dissampled the pack with the pump also attached and the akku looks the same. it was a lipo pack

[@ElectronicStuff]

thanks buddy

[@suleijman228]

it is a 4s lifepo4 so you need a 4s balance you should no that cause you have 4 discharge resistors

[@CF...]

Should have repaired it just to see if you could. Mixed a trick here that would have been good content for another video.

[@youandme3301]

never started a car with it, it was dead before :(

[@noeljay8812]

were can i get reaister for upbs12000 ai

[@noeljay8812]

need photo

[@marcinuskar9221]

Do you know exactly what battery cells are there?

[@ElectronicStuff]

the text on them does not bring anything up

[@fourkings7897]

Lithium Iron Phosphate battery

[@mickerai3618]

if you need a photo to do the repair tell me

[@davidedmunds7104]

Hi a photo would be great if you still have it

[@shayryan6886]

Can you send photos of the repair

[@shayryan6886]

Can you send photo of repair if still have

[@chipscheeseandbeans8169]

i bought one of these a wile ago and it has never once been fit to start or help start any car and after leaving it for a few month in the house draw it is now doing the exact same thing as your one ! these are pure junk

[@shanetravis8680]

If anyone reading the comment do not buy the tire and battery jumper starter it fucked after a month I bought one never agian its the same maker

[@martymartin2894]

I was thinking that the one with compressor for pumping wheels would be even worse than this one.

[@shanetravis8680]

It just gose to show how cheaply made they are

[@Nico-uo9ff]

4 cell lifepo4

[@jamesboldcomedy6914]

My usb port broke and LIDL never honoured the warranty

[@مزاجيوبكيفي-ص8ع]

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