Liftmaster Logic 5.0 Commercial Door Operators Elite Series Overview

[@alexmaclean1]

I had the GH installed in my shop. My only regret is that the remotes they provided are only 1 button so the door needs to go up or down all the way. It can be stopped with another press but the next press just continues the previous direction. In an 18 foot door that is a pain in the rear in stormy winter days when I only need to bring a small vehicle in.

[@firstclassgaragedoor6471]

Have you considered having a mid-stop programmed? This would stop the door at a mid point between closed and fully open (your choice of height), if you needed the door to open fully you just press open again when it stops at the mid-stop and the door will go all the way up. This would really only be useful if you are utilizing the Timer To Close feature as pressing the open button on your remote to close the door from the mid-stop would open it to the full open position and another press of the remote at full open would then close the door. Not sure what your moving in and out of your shop but yes 18' is pretty tall.

[@jccbsl1]

I have a Logic 3 that is operated by a single RF remote. How can I add a manual button? Can I add additional RF remotes?

[@firstclassgaragedoor6471]

Either program another remote and stick it to the wall or hardwire a button to the SBC terminals on the board.

[@propertymanagement5844]

Would you mind telling us how to program a KPW250 wireless keypad to a Liftmaster GH205 commercial garage door system? We followed the instructions from the manual and it's still not working. What would be the reason?

[@firstclassgaragedoor6471]

I would have to point you to Liftmasters tech support for programming assistance. The number should be in the manual. The instructions can be kind of confusing, you have to enter the password multiple times throughout the programming process if I'm remembering correct.

[@steventhury8366]

What would be the appropiate size I would need? I have an 18' wide x 16' high sectional door. There are two large torsion springs on horizontal shaft above door. I like the smart phone accessibility. Any info would be appreciated. Please ask any question for more detail Thanks, Steven

[@firstclassgaragedoor6471]

What is the make and model of the door ? I assume its a very light door given the size and only having two springs unless they are duplex or triplex springs. Typically on those larger doors two pair of springs is more appropriate so that when one breaks the door is still relatively manageable to open if needed not to mention worrying about the door dropping should one of the springs break mid travel. The fewer springs on the door the more weight each carries, Example: A door weighing 800lbs with two springs should be balanced when all is intact and require one maybe two hands to lift manually but when one spring breaks the door now requires 400lbs of lifting force (applied by you) to lift. Where as the same door with four springs would "only" require 200lbs of lifting force to lift should one of the four springs break. Do you have a preference for the type of operator (Trolley or Jackshaft) or are you limited to one over the other due to limited space or door track type (High-Lift or Vertical Lift) ? Any of the Liftmaster Elite series commercial operators are going to be MyQ enabled, you would just need the internet gateway and wifi within range of the operator to utilize the App on your phone.

[@steventhury8366]

@@firstclassgaragedoor6471 It is a Midland insulated door.

[@firstclassgaragedoor6471]

@@steventhury8366 Vinyl back insulated, steel back insulated, sandwich steel insulated ? What gauge steel exterior and interior (if steel back or sandwich steel) ?

[@steventhury8366]

@@firstclassgaragedoor6471 It is an "Overhead" brand door. Not Midland. Looks like 2 1/8" thick door. Textured metal skin on both sides. Manufactured in 95. Can't tell what the gage of metal is. Seems fairly rigid. I can lift it manually without straining.

[@firstclassgaragedoor6471]

@@steventhury8366 Seems like a 1/2 HP - T, J or H would be sufficient assuming its not going up and down all day and I would get the brake modification with a door that large. Overhead Door made/makes several different models of varying thickness, materials and in tern varying weights, Without knowing the exact specs of the door I couldn't say for sure and over kill isn't always better depending on the frequency of use. We have found that over powered operators in high traffic applications tend to burn out prematurely. Although it sounds like the door is balanced properly there is the momentum and inertia of the door, think of it like pushing a car, a guy can do it by himself but get it rolling at a 1mph and try to stop it, not going to happen on a dime. The door travels at roughly 1 foot per second, so stopping 4,5, 600lbs or more moving at a foot per second takes a little bit as well as accelerating a door from zero to 1 foot per second in an instant, to open and close it.

[@sunshinestatebullies8676]

Where is the learn button located on the chamberlain lift master elite series logic 3.0???

[@teama224]

Did you found out?

[@gavincurtis]

Liftmaster guy here with a plague of Genies. Any way to make LiftMaster CPS-UN4 door sensor work with Genie brand crap? Genie door sensors are garbage and shut down when 5 or more photons from the sun are nearby. CPS-UN4 is a masterpiece of engineering...any way to make a CPS-UN4 compatible with Genie T beam system?

[@firstclassgaragedoor6471]

For commercial, possibly. Newer residential, I don't believe so. After my past experience with Genie, I avoid it like the plague. I don't really have much recent experience with Genie at all, mostly just R & R with Liftmaster. What model or models are you referring to ?

[@gavincurtis]

@@firstclassgaragedoor6471 The Genie 1000 units. I am reverse engineering their T sensor. They put a 240 ohm resistor across the leads at 325 Hz (controlled by the flash rate of the emitter LED in their sensor). This modulates that +14VDC down to 8.6V and back up to 14VDC 325 times a second on their sensor line when the beam is intact. The CPS-UN4 does this at about 1/2Hz or so. When the beam is broken, the load resistor is removed from the circuit. So repeating 325 Hz signal from switched 240 ohm dummy load resistor indicates good beam on the new Genies. Each pulse is probably resetting a software timer inside the Genie motor logic board. When the beam is broken....no state change aka no timer reset. Beam broken, the timer runs out in a few milliseconds and door reverses. Tomorrow will see if the processor chip timer in the Genie cares about that exact frequency from the T beam receiver. Probably need to make a simple circuit that does the 325 Hz resistor thing when the sensor is unblocked and when blocked, disable the 325 Hz. Ugh...I just wanted simple :(

[@firstclassgaragedoor6471]

@@gavincurtis I have some experience with this on Liftmaster UL-325 compliant gate operators. If I remember correct they need a 10k resistor wired into any non UL-325 (monitored) safety device. I've seen guys use CPS-UN4 eyes with the gate operators so I assume they would have the same resistance. I will double check that tomorrow and get back if it's incorrect. Aside from that LM doesn't give away any technical info aside from power consumption specs for accessories. In 15 years I've never been directed by LM tech support to do a resistance check or voltage check on a safety eye circuit let alone breaking out the O-scope, its all simple process of elimination then R & R. Yes, a frequency module of sorts with the CPS eyes as a trigger should do. They have a photo eye module from Liftmaster the input is 24vac and the output is just a SPST switch, n/c I believe and controlled by the eyes. If that would save you some time making the circuit for the CPS eyes. You could just make the frequency "module" and use the LM eye module to trigger it.

[@gavincurtis]

@@firstclassgaragedoor6471 The frequency module is definitely a must. Excellent analysis. The 10K series pull-up resistor makes sense. I ordered some parts and will try using a 555 timer chip to switch the 240 ohm load resistor 325 Hz across the +14V when the beam from the CPS is unbroken. Exact output waveform and duty cycle the T-beam sensor makes. When the beam is broken, the state change to low from the CPS will pause the 555 timer's 325Hz signal. The T beam sensor on the Genie actually detects this 325 Hz wobble and uses that in addition to IR beam to detect system errors. Very advanced little system, but single band emitter/detector are the problem with sunlight. I did not find any type of serial data communication between the Genie unit and its door sensors, just the presence of the 325Hz wobble when door sensor beam unobstructed. 325Hz to 0Hz wobble transition for valid broken beam. The CPS has multiple detectors inside (opened one up carefully) so the multiple beam frequencies probably allow it to discriminate out any sunlight errors. Will let you know if this works. Could help a lot of Genie owners with sunlight blocked always-open garage doors.

[@firstclassgaragedoor6471]

@@gavincurtis so it’s 8.2k not 10k resistor.