Light load 3" motors - Toothpick motors - Amax ET1303

[@stevo4535]

Half hour of motor talk during the lockdown... yes please

[@tehllama42]

Yo quiero mas tambien

[@Rich-TeaFPV]

A 30 minute kabab video discussing motors 😁😁 your really looking after those of us under lock down, thanks Bob 👍 👍

[@jboxfpv3303]

I don’t even own a 3” toothpick yet, but yet I’ll always watch your videos... love the content man! Keep it up!

[@tScruff]

Thanks for coming back!

[@TheDstizzle]

Motors can be such a mystery to me. Your videos are always helpful, thanks for the info!

[@friendlynomad9840]

Great video! I'm looking forward to the 1S Babytooth video!

[@neojeets]

Can't wait to get some of the mint green 1303 motors. My original Amax 1303s are luckily still alive after some bad crashes.

[@olafschermann1592]

UNIBODY frame vs. SEPARATE ARMS: I am looking forward to seeing a discussion from you regarding this topic. People argue that separate arms have the advantage that you can replace them. This applies to your frames. But my thoughts are that 90% of the drones sold/build nowadays are bind and fly products. Separate arms are not sold separately. Due to so many new models every month a drone or parts are no longer available once a batch is sold out. So the arms replacement advantage is inapplicable at most of the drones. In my opinion unibody frames have the advantage that they are lighter due to the lack of locknuts and are stiffer. What are you thoughts? Please discuss this in a future video.

[@Kabab]

I actually have both. The TP3 is the multi-unit and the BabyTooth 3mm is the uni-body. Wherever it makes sense, I will always choose multi-unit for obvious reasons listed below. There are some cases where it doesn't make sense however and that's when you get down below 3". The intricacy needed for a multi-unit frame just becomes too much effort to manufacture and build by the user imo. As for the availability of parts, I never ever recommend an RTF. Sure some are better than others but it's that reason alone that just makes them uneconomical Multi Unit design benefits: Repairability when you smash it Skinnier arms for less thrust deflection and rotational drag Similar weight to a monobody of the same or lesser durability Cheaper to maintain Easier to repair and maintain Doesn’t ruin your flying day due to a crash

[@Politicallyhomeless957]

I need to get more into these TP’s. There is no escaping the soft targets here in CA these days lol good content and welcome back!

[@ljparish1]

I have been waiting for a video like this. Thank you!

[@Edgewalker728]

The new cyber motors look sick, 10mm bearings will be all the hype

[@baccarah7010]

Im really exited about that 1s 53g auw guy. It looks like 2S from what I can tell. Holy moly.

[@drdrechronik]

What do you think about the iflight 1204 or 1105 motor? The bigger iflight motors seem solid. Do you expect the 1204 or 1105 to be of inferior quality, or why don't you mention it in your roundups?

[@Kabab]

The iflight motors have some weird issues. First off, all the little motors are a fair bit heavier than they need to be. Next, some of them have ridiculous 1mm internal shafts. Some other annoyances too but those are the main issues. If you find one with a 2mm internal shaft and around the same weight which is 5.8-5.9g WITH the long wire on the motor, that'll be good but I don't think it exists. I tried to ask them to fix it but they don't seem to be so good at taking feedback and actually making changes.

[@drdrechronik]

@@Kabab Thanks for your reply! Since I'm a fan of their 2207s I thought I'd give them a chance for my next build. But your right, they are all quite on the heavy side. 1105 and 1204 are both 6.5g

[@ruftime]

Thanks Bob, toothpicks are perfect for lockdown flying!

[@berberdodo]

I don't how you find the time for us and your testing and designing but im surely thankful you do!..just bought some your minty motors for 1s and can't wait to fly them!!..

[@Kabab]

It's quite difficult but hopefully I can do it more and more moving forward

[@vapgames]

To get the props on the shaft more secure you can use a permanent marker. Just pain the shaft a tiny bit and it will hold the prop very tight.

[@Kabab]

That's actually amazing. Gonna try that. Thanks!

[@bmw-upgradech1665]

really? I guess it can make sense

[@GTARC_au]

What else is there to do in a lockdown!! Tech talk. Cheers mate!

[@DroneOn]

Thank You for your time.

[@rawpicsfpv3516]

What shipping time would you expect for 1303 toothpick motors to munich (Germany)?

[@techromancer6702]

@KababFPV I am finally getting my TP3 back in the air today. The last attempts I had flying it had some pretty serious oscillation issues at high throttle, and I was struggling to find a working tune for it. I'm flying the Tmotor 5000kv 1303s, and the F7 Beast AIO @3s. Throttle oscillation (Maybe motor dsync? I'm not familiar enough to qualify) begins at roughly 40-50% throttle, and remains through the entire rest of the throttle curve. I was able to remedy the issue for the most part using a beta version of emuflight but that is not available on the Beast (used on a prior Betafpv board that died on a light landing...). My AUW is about 103g, and everything is nice and stiff. I've tried altering TPA settings, D-term settings, filtering etc. Not familiar enough to tune it out and wondering if you've encountered similar, and/or how to proceed! Any help would be greatly apprecited. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fZXXYnp-jZV_eNU this is a video of the best tune I was able to manage on my own (with emu flight 0.3.5, and the new motor mixer with linear_thrust enabled). I still had some warbling at high throttle but it flew much much smoother throughout most of the throttle range.

[@Kabab]

Considering the aio board, I would recommend adding a small capacitor of appropriate voltage to the battery in leads. Those aio boards are extremely noisy. Even with small motors

[@techromancer6702]

@@Kabab I've been running a 16v panasonic cap on there. I seem to have fixed it. Running emuflight 0.3.5 with their 1303 5000kv preset, and matrix filter disabled (at least til my props get worn in) and full tilt it purred like a kitten til i smashed an arm!

[@jodyking7278]

So ready to jump on the babytooth next week. Hopefully you are getting a bunch.

[@marc_frank]

you didn't talk about 5k vs 7.5k on 2s / 3s the shaftscrew is cool, i can leave out the hole in my motor mount, although thick wires are nice

[@MadNitr0]

What about running floss throu the prop shaft hole first then push the prop on and cut the floss flush?

[@Kabab]

yep that works great too if you need it to be a bit tighter.

[@Kabab]

Actually I've found that once you put the floss through once, you don't really need to do it again for another prop swap or two. It seems to stick really well to the shaft.

[@djs134]

I noticed Nate Payne has been working hard on reducing the weight of his babytooth build, I’m at 53grams auw using a xt30. Is it really worth my effort of time and money to get some different parts to reduce the weight even more or is 53 just fine. I mean I do notice the difference of a few grams drastically in my tinyhawk freestyle when I added a full receiver and a nano2 with a 3d print to hold it. I had to remove them do to the negative impact on performance.

[@Kabab]

So I've gotten one if mine to 48.5g and it doesn't seem to make a really significant difference. It does help, just not as much as it would on a 2.5" platform. Nate's is down to 46g which doesn't seem like much but as you go down in weight it starts to matter more and more. That being said, my new one is 55g and it's flying great and not a whole lot worse than the 53g one. So it seems like the large 3" prop seems to be less sensitive to tiny weight diffences. I give a target of ~53g because that is where I've felt it starts to matter more and more. I've even flown one up at 80g and while it's a whole lot worse, it's not actually unflyable and still performs....not good but does perform

[@djs134]

KababFPV awesome ty for taking the time to respond. I figured as much weight wise. I’m happy with my 2mm frame and it would be a struggle to lower it anymore without having to order 20bucks worth of his special screws and another frame. I mean I guess if I was starting fresh with a new build I’d consider it . Been having terrible luck with these BetaFpv boards, I hope someone else comes out with a reliable 1s board. Have a good one and stay safe out there

[@jasonlyons3363]

I prefer that 1106 tmotor 4500kv on my primo 3 avan props(115 auw 520 3s) vs my primo 3 with fpvcycle 1303 5000kv with 3016 tri blade(110auw 520 3s). for the top end has a little more punch i think. Love them both tho. These ultra light 3 inch are the best thank you for steering the industry this way keep up the awesome work

[@alessdiazlopez54]

Love this video!! We want more like this!! 1105, 1204....should be fine!!

[@MrZomhad]

10:00 multi windings can also handle higher currents while getting less hot than single windings. Look up skin effect. This effect takes place in essentially every electric wire because of self induction. It prevents current from flowing through the center of the wire, thus the great amount of current flows actually through the outer diameter of it. When having multi windings instead of single windings one can increase the area current likes to flow through by increasing the outer area of the wires, therefore reducing the actual resistance when current is flowing through it and by that reducing generation of heat, making the multi winded motor actually able to sustain far higher current situations than the single winded.

[@Kabab]

The skin effect is heavily debated. In terms of temps, the enamel coating is more important than anything else. It's a toss up between multi and single from an engineering standpoint. In actual use, single strand for sure holds up better to high temp. This is across many users and thousands of motors. Of course both can be made to be good but it seems to be easier to make the single better for whatever reason. Unlikely a material reason

[@dave3883]

The birds in the background has be looking around my car for a bird. Lol good info!

[@3eggerfpv397]

I’m wondering, just as an off the wall thought, if you’ve ever tested heavier 3” weights with more powerful motors? Case in point, the Emax 1606 motors on a 3” steriodpick? Or, even extending that frame to accept a 4” prop? IDK WTF I’m talking about, but it sounds like a potential ripper!!

[@Kabab]

Yeah the heavy 3" is good too. Just a bit different. I'm working on the heavy 3" right now actually

[@3eggerfpv397]

KababFPV - I’m thinking, I think, a 3D print extension to accomodate a 4” prop could rip balls?!! Light weight 3” footprint-ish with a 4” prop is the replacement to a 5” quad, said the guy to the guy that invented the toothpick!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@Flowmi]

Just wanted to say I came across your channel recently and I think your videos are really unique. Keep it up! :)

[@InvertFPV]

Are you droping 2s 65mm? I really like that class for flying around my yard. Its the perfect medium amount of power.

[@donnygfpv7548]

Invert FPV agreed, been really enjoying it as well in tighter spaces! @kababfpv you mentioned that 11xx is better for 2inch from all of your testing compared to ur original thoughts on 65mm/2s, Would love to see ur 1202.5 motor in a lower KV for 2s 65mm and hopefully be able to run a light load 3blade press fit prop if the formula would allow for that great toothpick performance we all love! Or I could just build a babytooth or TP3 and call it a day which Im gonna do anyway soon as motors get back in stock, but 65mm 2s just seems like a good medium, so many options!

[@Kabab]

I'm dropping the 2S 65mm because while fun, it's a really frustrating size. It's such can struggle to get it down to the appropriate weight so that it performs right. Gives you almost zero leeway. The 3" is really just a tiny bit bigger, gives far more performance, wider auw window, more flight time, an onboard DVR if you want it, and the appropriate motors for it exists. Plus the TP3 multi-unit frame is awesome and would not match a 65mm because it's a gram heavier than the uni-body.

[@Kabab]

The BabyTooth frame in 2mm is actually lighter and stronger than the original Toothpick 65mm frame. It's also cheaper and only a few mm bigger. I would recommend 1203 or 1303 motors in 5000kv or 7500kv for 65mm as well. It literally makes no sense to go back to 65mm. I can do all the same flying in the same places with the 3" and it's really only 12mm bigger.

[@donnygfpv7548]

KababFPV cool that’s what I thought you might say and all I needed to hear, thanks for the quick reply!

[@DrMacca]

Great video as always! Stay safe, brother.

[@brianevans4]

I would love to see you do a similar style video on 7 inch motors. I know its hard for you to find place to fly larger quads, but your opinion is so valuable. I would be especially interested in what you think of the racerstar-tmotor collab 2514 AirB motor.

[@RCDevotee]

Cool! Hopefully I can find a 1303 motor with a 2mm shaft on your store. I have everything else from your store but just need the right motors. Hope you are well during this shelter in place.

[@Kabab]

Next week

[@RCDevotee]

@@Kabab Great! I have plenty of time to build up a TP3 these days.

[@tobiasanders]

The new Amaxinno ET 2305 acutally is not 28/29$, it's more in the range of 20-22$, depending if you want 2207/2305/2306. I have those Motors on my 580ish gram Glide Lite and I really really like them!

[@Quad66]

Are those curved magnets on the new amax 1303 ?

[@Kabab]

Yep curved. More curved than the others. But performance is indistinguishable from the FPVCycle 1303. The Tmotor is a lot less efficient. That's easily evident in flight

[@Quad66]

@@Kabab Its interesting following the development and we have these theories to explain differences then we see it was something else. I was specifically wondering for 1102 HM (curved) vs Geprc (flat) whether it was the curved magnets that made the HMs more efficient. Also, at one point there was the idea that more powerful curved magnets would introduce too much motor noise etc. Thanks for the udates!

[@brandohim]

Where did you buy that rad little electric screwdriver???? I love it.

[@Kabab]

I don't remember sorr

[@vapgames]

FPVCycle 1303 are great, i've smashed them into concrete, and got them wet in the snow multiple times. Still good. Need more of them.

[@Kabab]

Coming soon

[@ByeJon]

Hey Bob, did you ever do an overview of your BF settings since 4.1? I have my TP3 3s build with FPVCycle motors and the betafpv toothpick AIO... basically I’m looking to get rid of some prop wash and fluttering feeling I’m seeing. I have bi directional dshot with JESC on as well.

[@Kabab]

I actually don't use 4.1 on anything. I've never gotten it to work consistently. The product page for the frame has the settings listed but they're just default BF 3.5.7 fpvcycle.com/collections/frames/products/kabab-toothpick-3-tp3-frame Recommended PIDs for a TP3 on 3S and FPVCycle motors ~100-109g AUW: Roll 48, 45, 26 Pitch: 52, 50, 28 Yaw: 65, 45 TPA: 0.50, Breakpoint: 1310 Recommended rates: Set all Feed forward to zero Roll: 0.99, 0.64, 0 Pitch: 0.99, 0.64, 0 Yaw: 0.99, 0.64, 0

[@fpvlive]

the ET1303 is 7500kv according to the information behind the link, that seems not to be suitable for a 3 inch prop on 3s.

[@Kabab]

There's a 5000kv version too there. Drop down list

[@fpvlive]

@@Kabab Unless I'm doing something really wrong or being just plane stupid; I reviewed the entire dropdown list and there's just one type of the ET1303 which is the 7500KV

[@bigfuzzyarchon2007]

I built a glide lite with the amax 2305 motors already. And I have the amax 1303 motors on order since last week that will be going onto my tp3 build. Gonna look so nice next to each other :)

[@tabdougherty8549]

Still wanting to build a toothpick. It's a great idea and from what I have seen superb product. THX KABAB

[@peterzingler6221]

I love you for your work in this industry :)

[@QSpeedRacer]

I just put a temp motor on my 2" .. its too big for 2" I believe but I had it laying around. (RCinpower 1207). Now looking at 1204 .. 1303.. maybe 1202.5. So confusing. Run 3s and 4s

[@Kabab]

for 2", use 1103. For 2.5" you need 120X. For 3" 1S, you can get away with 1202.5 but anything beyond 1S super light props you really want at least 13mm wide motors for 3"

[@QSpeedRacer]

@@Kabab its 3s/4s 2".. cause those the batteries I already have haha.. 85x build.. I ended up just ordering the 1204 5000kv with plugs.. easy to just plug in and good.. and smaller than the 1105. Seeing how it flies 🤷‍♂️

[@Kabab]

@@QSpeedRacer it's gonna be really really fast

[@QSpeedRacer]

@@Kabab oh.. wasn't going for super fast.. just wanted to carry insta360 go or naked gopro once in a blue lmao 🤣

[@savasoguz]

What do you say about emax 1404? Like Furadi used on his TorqueFPV 3” Caddx Vista build on youtube?

[@Kabab]

I haven't tried it but it's probably a decent motor.

[@3eggerfpv397]

I would never buy a $28 dollar 5” quad motor, as I’ve found, what you talk about, to be true! Especially, if you’re thrashing that quad, I don’t see a point in buying expensive motors because you’ll destroy those on an equal basis. Flying the early days park, that got you thrown out multiple times! Perhaps, we’ll all see things in a different light, when this is over!!!

[@audiogek]

Not true! The expensive motors have 7075 alu and never break so easily. Flying carparks will kill an emax eco instantly, but the €25 motors are on my kwad for around 18 months and only recently killed 2. Everybody has different experiences but I'll never buy a cheap motor again.

[@Tonynux]

I want to build a 3" toothpick, 2s or 3s. If my goal is "long flight time" (I don't care for freestyle attitude), what type of motors, what 3" propellers, and which battery between 2s and 3s (and mAh), should I choose? I will mount caddx baby turtle.

[@Kabab]

here's what you're probably looking for to answer some general questions. fpvcycle.com/blogs/build-guides-and-discussion/toothpick-3

[@fly99hummingbird]

Hi KababFPV Can I use it in FPV CYCLE 1303 5000KV MOTOR with the Gaoneng 600mah 1S battery I have in my hand, I am a beginner Thank you

[@Kabab]

You can but it would be very slow. Very very slow. I wouldn't recommend it

[@fly99hummingbird]

@@Kabab You are very good. Thank you for the information Sorry, can I ask another question? As you did in this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/hWHCimybmayiqqs Would it be appropriate to make 1 cell 2400 mah?

[@Kabab]

@@fly99hummingbird I really wouldn't recommend it. Too much weight for just 1S power on a 3" platform. It would be best to run many smaller packs than one big pack

[@fly99hummingbird]

@@Kabab understood thank you so much

[@Crftbt]

Not sure why I can't find others sharing their experience with motors in this kind of detail. Wondering if you have any motor recommendations for a 2.5" prop or a 2" prop.

[@Kabab]

Unless going the super light route, I really don't recommend 2.5". Even at super light 3" is better. The surface area of a 3" is just so much more than 2.5" that it's just not worth it. If you're going under 3" I'd say just go for a whoop instead. But due 2.5" the minimum motor you want is 1202.5 and 1303 is a good size. Of course 1103 will work but won't be quite as good. Bigger motors are good too. Depends on the entire build.

[@Jwillie]

all i need is the motors then i can fly my baby tooth

[@knighthawkfpv]

So I race and want something to fly in my garden to practise. It needs to be as quiet as possible. Is this the build to get? Love the content

[@bmw-upgradech1665]

If your average throttle is above 50% sounds like you should see if 1106 are not heavier than 1303. to be fast you look for higher motor (more power to archive high KV), a touch higher kv (higher max speed), BUT most important higher thrust vs weight ration (lower weight motor). Width of the motor determine its torque/mainly what is is below 50% it is like Diesel and Petrol - Diesel is torque low KV motor, that is faster 0-100, but Petrol is less torque, but better on 100-200km/h range, so check your flying style and track you compete on. Example two: compact, technical track, with many sharp turns - 1303 will be able to push you out every time large track with not so sharp, but high speed turns - 1106 will carry you through on higher speed

[@Kabab]

The 3" 1S BabyTooth is literally the highest performance per unit of noise quad I've ever used. I regularly forget it's just 1S. Nate Payne has gotten his down to 43g auw. The performance of that thing will be similar to that of the 3S version. But just on 1S.

[@knighthawkfpv]

Thanks guys, sounds like this is a decent setup for me :)

[@DangerDavefpv]

Is a toothpick with originally 1103 pointless to use any bigger motor on?

[@Kabab]

I think 2.5" should be a 1202.5 and up too

[@thelongranger55]

Is boldclash one of the companies that is no longer around ?

[@Kabab]

It was a copy cat middle man company with pretty bad products

[@jaredmaly5161]

yesss been waiting for these 1303s!! I got a set of the OG Amax 1303s for my TP3 and they were AMAZING until one of the motor wires detached from the motor on my third flight after a super light crash... much disappointment as I haven't been able to score a replacement for months now and have been running the rcinpower 1204s instead (which are still great) but I can't wait to finally have the 1303s ripping again!

[@friendlynomad9840]

I have a question, would it work if we completely remove the motor shaft? I'm using M2 screws on all my props above 1S. Instead of having two sets of motors and props for 1.5mm and 2mm shafts/holes, why don't we get rid of the shaft completely and remove that point of failure and lighten the motor?

[@Kabab]

Because the screws you're using weigh more than the single press fit and the screw are a total pain in the ass to use when replacing a prop. There's virtually no issues with press fit. We've been using it on whoops since day 1. I've just expanded it to light 3".

[@friendlynomad9840]

@@Kabab Ah. That makes sense. Thanks

[@archer4922]

I hope HQ does step it up. I tried their new 3x2.5x3 props and my gtb339 did not like them at all. No matter what tune I tried all the quad would do is shake in flight. Props were balanced but the quad didn’t like em. Speaking of motors. I definitely can’t see me paying $30 for a motor unless it’s for a 7” or bigger quad. For a 5” the hyperlite e series have been great for me lately on my race rigs. And xing for my freestyle quads(mainly bc I won a set of 2208’s and a buddy gave me a set of 2208’s so I have 3 sets now 😋) but they run great and loads of power. I don’t tend to break motors so mine do last me a while even my race builds the motors last. One set on one of my main racers has been on the quad over a year now and the still spin smooth even after a few really bad crashes that killed fc’s and esc’s and frames. Xilo definitely made some good 2207’s they have honestly lasted me longer than most of my other motors with the exception of my Emax Hawk 5. It’s 2 years old and still running the original motors 😝.

[@metaldirtnskin]

The Gemfan 3016 seems to work great on my Diatone Cube since the shafts on those motors are too stubby to use without screws anyway. Others say the Gemfans are better balanced than HQs also. One day I'll try them out on the TP3 once I fix whatever other problems that thing has. You would think that with the whole quarantine business I would have all the time in the world, but somehow not.

[@Kabab]

Oh man do I feel the pain. I'm twice as busy as I was when I was working full time. I cannot for the life of me understand it.

[@dnsfklfhSCN]

How is your drone footage so clear?! You didn't get any breakup!

[@Kabab]

I think I was using an onboard recorder back then. It's really small and really convenient for clean fpv video.

[@archer4922]

Great vid Bob. About to upgrade my FalcoX gtb339 with your 1303’s once they come back in stock! Can’t wait.

[@Kabab]

Falcox is great but it has a similar issue as BF 4.X. It's a bit finicky to tune on these little quads. Everything else about it is too notch and the tuning issue will likely be solved in the future too.

[@archer4922]

KababFPV true true. I found the preset race tune to be the best for me. Especially on 2s it honestly flys perfect. Zero prop wash unless it’s really windy. Even on 3s with the same tune it’s doing pretty good. But I know it could be better but for racing it’s perfect. I never could get betaflight to fly right on it. Constantly had a bobble on the pitch axis and I couldn’t get the prop wash out.

[@lukaslorenz9499]

@KababFPV what motors would you recommend for a toothpick 3'' ? I would love to take the "FPVCYCLE 13MM 5000KV 2S-4S MOTORS" but every time a look on the page, they are sold out :'( . Are there any good alternatives you can recommend or will the FPVCYCLE Motors get restocked soon?

[@Kabab]

Our new motor is a 1304 and was supposed to come a month ago but then CNY hit so we're expecting them in a few weeks

[@Christheawsome3]

As a person who really bashes quads, im wondering how the durability is on your tp3? Im looking for a 2-3 inch right now but is the great flight characteristics worth it if it will only last a couple crashes before it needs new camera, frame, etc? Looks very frail tbh but since i have never seen one in person, i could be wrong.

[@Kabab]

The low weight makes it surprisingly durable. Arms do break but it's definitely not the norm. There's a TP4 coming probably in 4-5 weeks. It's designed to be tough and is a suitable option for 3" as well if you want a lot of durability.

[@Christheawsome3]

@@Kabab👍👍👍sounds good

[@mattraymond2935]

what are your rates?

[@Kabab]

0.99 rate, 0.64 super rate, 0 expo. Same for all. Feed forward at zero

[@sonicwrxpa]

I will have to try a 1303 size. I found the rcinpower 1204 5000k on my ultralight 3" build feel awesome. Running the gemfan 3 blades.

[@Kabab]

1303 is better at everything

[@rawpicsfpv3516]

Can i mix 3 old amaxino and 1 new amaxino motor on one quad? And by crashing replacing the old motors step by step with new ones? Does mixing change the flight experience or mess up the fc / Esc? I have 3 old amax (1303 488kv) motors, which are working perfectly well!

[@Kabab]

Yes you can. You probably won't be able to tell the difference but if you have four of the new ones, the quad will be a bit quicker

[@grahammiller6600]

Hey Bob, I recently built a new 6s setup on your glide 5inch frame and have been digging it. The quad flys amazing except for one feature which I was wondering if you had any input on how to fix. The quad seems to have an unstable pitch axis when doing any flips (and only flips, normal flying is fine). It behaves as if the quads rates on the pitch axis are much faster then they really are when doing fast flips, and acts very twitchy/unpredictable. There are no oscillations or bounce after the flip, and tuning the pitch axis PIDS dosent seem to change the twitchy aspect to the pitch axis during flips. Any help would be appreciated, thanks for getting me into fpv

[@Kabab]

Maybe the rates are a little higher on it by accident?

[@jasonbond3567]

Have you been messing around with your 7" lately? How did you feel about (I think it was) the 2812s for 7"?

[@Kabab]

I'm working on some designs but it's really not a large market for now. There's lots more to do elsewhere first.

[@jasonbond3567]

Oh, one thing I forgot to mention...with avenger 2806s flying 7" LOS only, I found it impossible to tune out wobbles using several 3-blade 7" props (either of the 2 HQprops as well as the gemfan 7040)...I also tried APC 7" bi-blades, still couldn't tune out wobbles. But with the gemfan 7042 bi-blades I was pretty close to being able to remove them. Didn't try DAL 7056, luminere 6.7" folding, or hq biblade. Anyway, just another data point FYI...

[@m.s.aviation7065]

Do you have any old five inchers kabab, that You dont want? I really want a 5 inch

[@stevenkelby2169]

Do you have any old money that you don't want? I really want some money!

[@Kabab]

Not at the moment. Sorry

[@erick4188]

I'll give you some of my 5 inches ;)

[@m.s.aviation7065]

@@stevenkelby2169 lol I want to save but I also want a 5 inch lol

[@m.s.aviation7065]

@@erick4188 really? I'll pay for shipping

[@tibib4029]

Hola ! Tienes que hacer un banco de pruebas con estos motores con bateria 1s y diferentes helices para ver el mas eficiente ! Por favor !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! En youtube no hai muchos videos con baterias 1s y yo quero usarlos con bateria li -ion 18650 para mayor autonomia

[@cletussurfsalot7190]

I know peeps like the new thicker 2mm shaft but I still wish they left em 1.5. Would love to use some of these motors on some other builds I have. Though I could drill out the hole. 🤔

[@Kabab]

Drill out the center hole of props to anything larger than 2mm and use screws. Don't try to press fit a drilled out prop. It'll never be straight. But using screws with a slightly off center hole is no issue.

[@NicuIrimia]

WAIT WAIT WAIT, so the internal shaft diameter for these small motors is actually 3mm???? then why not use ceramic bearings?, they go really fast, the smaller inertia would not hurt them, and the total motor weight would be a lot less. I was thinking of this for some time but the smallest ceramic bearings have 3 mm inner diameter and I had impression that the shafts are only 2mm.

[@Kabab]

All these internal shafts are 2mm

[@jeffclassics]

Hi kababfpv. Is 13xx still best for 3inch? How about 14xx since there are a lot available 14xx in my near local shop. Thanks.

[@Kabab]

13 and 14 sizes are good. Just try to keep it short. 1303 or 1404 max. I'm not actually sure how well a 1404 will work on a light thin arm. I can tell you that taller ratio motors on small light crafts are a total pain in the frikin ass to manage. The electronic noise is such a mess. The 1303 on gemfan 3016 triblade and 3s is a fantastic combo. We have those motors coming back to the store in a couple weeks

[@jeffclassics]

@@Kabab thank you. I'll follow your advice. I think this video of yours still hold true in 3" so 1303 wins this.

[@croeitusd5731]

I was waiting for the mob6 canopy and camera to be sold seperately on RDQ. the whoop parts are getting lighter, which means toothpicks are too :D

[@NHEvan]

Did you try xing 1303 5000kv? If so, what do you think about that motor ? I am trying to find a 1303 motor for my toothpick.

[@Kabab]

I literally created the 1303 5000kv for my toothpick class of quad. The class that all the companies copied.

[@NHEvan]

KababFPV sad to know you were not given credit, you are a great resource to this community and should be rewarded accordingly. I was mostly hunting for the right 1303 5000kv, I guess I have to try a few brands

[@yervantarabian5314]

Hi, you have a very interesting youtube Channel. I have been checking to buy the FPVCycle 1S motors for a while now. Do you know if they are going to be available again? if yes when? thanks in advance.

[@Kabab]

Yeah they will be. They're in production right now, just gonna take a while because of the world wide shortage and drastic demand of goods

[@yervantarabian5314]

@@Kabab Thanks

[@tehllama42]

I guess it's a stylistic thing - I still adore mamba 1105 for how I fly on 3S rigs... on 2S I do think 1303 is going to be the answer for sure, just want durability. The GF3016-3 is THE prop, period. I'll use the biblade for racing, but when I'm at the limit for that the biblade doesn't actually add much in the way of efficiency.

[@Kabab]

Yeah really thankful for the 3016

[@hallio111]

dammit, I want to buy these. for a 95x, but are there any props with 2mm mounting hole? (2.5 inches)

[@Kabab]

fpvcycle.com/collections/props/products/gemfan-tri-blade-3018-props-4cw-4ccw-2mm fpvcycle.com/collections/props/products/gemfan-3018-props-4cw-4ccw They say sold out but I swear we just got a ton in. hard to believe sold out so fast. if it is, they'll be back in stock shortly. waiting on a shipment

[@nikotttin]

Great I just bought some 1204 yesterday!

[@TrungPhanViet]

Can you add Xing 1303 to the test

[@_Brando_69]

Have you tried amax new 30 something dollar premium motor yet? Haven't heard anything about them yet

[@Kabab]

Haven't tried but they sure look pretty

[@_Brando_69]

@@Kabab yes they do. For how much they cost though I'd just put them on a build and stare at them. Lol

[@dronereviewman9580]

I need a toothpick in my life!!

[@gavinvales8928]

I thought the shafts broke from removing and replacing tight press fit props

[@Kabab]

Nope. They broke from crashing into stuff. Never seen a shaft break from putting on or removing props.

[@gavinvales8928]

@@Kabab somehow thats good news for me, i'm always scared of breaking or bending shafts

[@NicuIrimia]

What do you think about the Robo 1202.5 motors? they seem similar..

[@Kabab]

I think they're good for 65mm props on 2S

[@martinverbaas]

How would you set up a "vistapick"?

[@Kabab]

working on a couple things. Basically I'd use a 20x20 mount board with the vista on top but that 20x20 AIO doesn't exist yet....supposed to come

[@martinverbaas]

@@Kabab Motors is the big question isn't it?

[@hateeternalmaver]

KababFPV, do you think an 0602 motor will be ok for a Mobula7 with it's typical props? I broke one of my motors and they're 0802 19000kv but atm the only ones available are 0602 19000kv... Are they still gonna be okay or should I wait? thanks

[@Kabab]

Anything smaller than an 1103 is a waste of time imo. Sure it'll kinda hover okay but that's it. Also, motors from happymodel that were made for whoops generally have awful balance and are no use for anything but a whoop with very small props.

[@hateeternalmaver]

@@Kabab thanks for elaborating and yeah it's a whoop-size frame that I'm flying with 2S...

[@juniorortiz4299]

Hey Laban can you give us your pids for the baby tooth 3 1s I thought I seen it in one of your vids but I can’t find it thanks

[@Kabab]

It's on the product page for the frame and the FC. 👌

[@egidijusjan9141]

I loved amaxinno 2308 1800kv but they don't make them any more. Too bad I can't find spare parts for those motors :( new motors is just too pricy IMO

[@tabdougherty8549]

I ran 45.00 dollars worth of RACERSTAR motors ! pack and the efficiency was so terrible I never ran them again. It was over a minute and a half difference and sad performance. Since then I run T-MOTOR on all my 5" quads

[@Kabab]

Yep. When they're really bad they're actually bad. But the difference between good and the best isn't noticable

[@friendlynomad9840]

Cant wait for the Babytooth video! I'd buy some Babytooth t-shirts

[@Kabab]

I've been wanting to make it but nothing is ever in stock so no point. so still waiting for now unfortunately

[@friendlynomad9840]

@@Kabab Yeah. That makes sense. You'd get a huge wave of complaints asking about stock if you released the video, now. I'm very thankful I got some motors from the last batch. I ordered in the first ten minutes. Been waiting since Christmas. I'm very thankful you brought these motors to the market.

[@Nagamooto]

I'd like to try out some 140x motors. I can get the samguk be1404 in 4300kv or 6000kv. Which would be more suitable for a 3s 3" tp3? Also, would any of these be suitable for a 4s 3" or even a 4s 4" build? Thanks Kabab!

[@Kabab]

I don't really recommend 4s because the need for it just isn't there. The reason to go up in volts is if you're getting so much voltage sag it's intolerable. In this case, you can hold the throttle wise open for close to a minute before the battery starts to give up. So moving to 4s would do nothing for flight time despite the bigger battery, add more auw which makes it fly shitty and you might get a little more speed out of it but more likely you'll just make the throttle uncontrollable at the low end and the top end will feel like it does nothing.

[@Nagamooto]

@@Kabab thank you for your helpful response. So, for 3s 3" is the 6000kv 1404 too much (making the 4300kv version preferable) out of the Samguk be1404 motors? (I know you've got a lot of questions to answer, so I promise no more follow up questions on this from me!)

[@Kabab]

@@Nagamooto for the 450mah 3S batt, 6000kv 1404 will be around the limit I would recommend. If you push it in a flight, you're likely gonna have 2min flights. Maybe even less if you're really pushing it. So more motor needs more battery then you have more weight so you need a stronger frame and now you have more of a ship so you want a nicer fpv camera......it's all a balancing act and it snowballs quickly. Gotta find a haply medium somewhere. If all you did was swap to 1404 6000kv, it should be fine.....super fast. But you're also gonna carry more speed into crashes which will result in an easier quad to break....

[@Nagamooto]

@@Kabab thank you so much for your detailed and helpful reply. I'll think long and hard and go with one or the other of the 4300 or 6000kv version (probably the 6k -I figure the 4000kv version weighs the same as the 6000kv, so I may as well get the 6000kv and I can always play around with limiting throttle etc a little to see if I can find a balance between speed and flight time).

[@TERBANGFPV]

I bended some motors already... Love toothpick, but the motors cant hold even on slow crash..

[@Kabab]

Which motors? The green FPVCycle motors have been holding up really excellent for users.

[@TERBANGFPV]

@@Kabab not.your motors, but the cheapo happymodel, amax and geprc one

[@JamesManimal]

is 114G AUW too heavy?

[@Kabab]

That's about good.

[@davschall]

Im definitely waiting for the fpvcycle 1303s to get back in stock for my 3in toothpick! I will say my F15 6500kv on 3s and a 3030 hq prop on a 146auw kwad have actually been insane for me so smooth and tons of control, while still getting 3ish minutes flight time. But honestly, I haven't done as much testing as you have and the same motors feel like crap on my 3in toothpick with anything but the hq3020s (got some hurricanes on the way so we will see)...so 1303 it is! Also Im fully sold on your frames man! Just built up a flosstyle and have a flowride as my old main that will be upgraded to the flosstyle soon as well! I kinda prefer the flosstyle to the glide btw...I like both and would've gotten the glide but the flosstyle hit more points for me.

[@Kabab]

Many still prefer the FlosStyle but it was a flawed frame from the beginning. The glide is really a better overall design and it's lighter too. The CineGlide coming soon will be this general designs final form.

[@davschall]

@@Kabab Huh yea, I was looking at the glide on piroflip. Im Sorry you think the flosstyle frame was flawed, it was a pretty easy build, although I have yet to maiden it. Unfortunately I hadnt seen that you offer the glide on your website somehow...now im kinda torn, Im going for steele level unification of my kwads so I was hoping to get another flosstyle, but ill have to think about ordering a glide when I order the fpvcycle motors. Any chance you will offer the glide with 6in arms or can I request that without having to purchase a whole set of them and having a 5in set im not gonna use? Also thanks for the reply and stay safe while operating!

[@jpbatinic]

Thank you for all you do :)

[@gavinvales8928]

Yep I run those 2 inch emax micros with my amax 1103

[@nikotttin]

Have you tried the new emax eco 1404?

[@Kabab]

Haven't but it is a suitable choice if you're okay with less flight time and a higher chance of breaking the frame. Otherwise, it'll be super quick

[@gianlucafischer2696]

Hey Bob, here is my question: I would like to buy all the parts to put a 2mm Babytooth together. My problem is, that I recently have upgraded from the flysky to the X9 Lite and installed Crossfire and so I'm unable to bind to the built-in receiver in the recommended 1S, aio-board. Is there any solution you or someone else have come up with to solve this issue?

[@Kabab]

Yeah I use the no Rx board and crossfire on mine. Annoying to build and solder but not much choice

[@gianlucafischer2696]

@@Kabab That is what I'll do, thanks.

[@gianlucafischer2696]

And when do the Babytooth Bundle will be back in stock? :)

[@kd2rdhlarry571]

Excellent info, thanks

[@pksteffen]

Great stuff!

The Amaxinno ET2305 price is 20,49usd and not 28usd as mentioned in the video: www.amaxshop.com/?product=et-2207-2305-2306

[@Kabab]

There's a $30 version

[@onepackjackfpv5906]

Awesome channel bro