Lightning-Fast Clamping by Using T-Tracks on Your CNC Router

[@IDCWoodcraft]

If you want T-tracks, get them here → shrsl.com/4no6y

[@JMarcusPedroza]

To answer your question I do a combination of all of the above. My first spoilboard I used your spoilboard file from Etsy and used one piece of mdf. Then as I progressed I needed to move my machine. I took that opportunity to try out the T-Tracks, however since I started with the threaded inserts I had gotten used to them. So now my table is a combination of the two. I have both tracks and inserts. So far it has been great as it gives me options and variability based on the project I’m doing. What is particularly nice is if I do happen to ruin a spoilboard section, I have them saved in a vectric file and I can replace one slat rather than the entire tabletop. I also added 1/4 reference pins that can be placed for alignment! Thanks for your dedication to the CNC community!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

woodworkingDad64, It sounds like you've got a fantastic setup that really accommodates your workflow! Having a combination of T-Tracks and threaded inserts definitely provides a lot of flexibility, and it’s great that you can replace individual sections of the spoilboard so easily. The addition of reference pins for alignment is such a smart idea! I appreciate your kind words about the CNC community; it’s all about sharing knowledge and helping each other grow. Happy woodworking!

[@billysmether6237]

I built my first cnc 20 years ago. I have a lot of cnc experience not to mention hold down devices. After you clamp down your project with the T tracks, stand back and take a look at those hungry bit snapping towers! And they are not the greatest at keeping your project held down tight when your bit is putting a lot of side pressure on your work piece. Nothing like seeing your work piece shifted a quarter inch half way into a two hour cut. So many ways to hold down your work piece. I am going to tell you the easiest, fatest, cheapest, and most secure way to hold down your work piece. And you have had it in your possession even before you purchased a cnc machine! Ready? The drywall screw. Almost all cnc tables use MDF as the machine bed. CNC owners just love how flat and smooth it looks. And sooner or later your program will have a small mis calculation, and that bit is going to carve a quarter inch path into that beautiful MDF bed of yours! OH no!!!! Why did that happen will be you reaction, and it will ruin your day! You need to get past the "Beautiful MDF Bed" thinking. MDF is cheap and available every where. Drill three or four holes into your work piece and using the proper length drywall screw, screw that baby down right into that pristine machine bed! That piece is not going to move, lift up at some corner, or snap your expensive bit in half. And you will have spent about 5 minutes securing the work piece to the bed. Not a half hour, trying to position some clamp to try and hold your work piece down, and hoping it is not in the cut path. You will be amazed at how many times you can run a drywall screw into the machine bed! Lots! And, when you think the bed has had enough, just go out and buy a new piece of MDF that will probably be cheaper than that bit you snapped off hitting that hold down clamp! Look at your bed Garrett, it is ready for that drywall screw! Just my two cents. As always Garrett, thank you for the video!!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

billysmether6237, Thanks for sharing your insights! It’s great to hear your experience with different hold-down methods. Your approach with drywall screws is definitely a practical solution that many can benefit from. I'm sure others will find it helpful too!

[@samspade2519]

I rabbit each board so it goes over the side of the t track. That puts downward pressure on the track as the board is pushed down by the clamp. Less upward pull on the track so the very short screws don't pill out. Great video tks garrett

[@IDCWoodcraft]

samspade2519, That’s a clever technique. I’m glad you found the video helpful!

[@markcvitkovich2983]

Thanks for responding. Yes I agree that either one is a solid choice. I've gone back and forth but ultimately settled on the Altmill. The ball screws will definitely be more accurate, the company also seems to be moving in that direction. At $1500 CAD it's just the better choice. Some things are missing from the specs so I've reached out to Scienci Labs and am hoping to hear back. I'll likely order the Altmill in the next week once business registration and bank accounts are set up.Thanx again. I like your videos very informative.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

markcvitkovich2983, I'm glad you found the videos informative! Good luck with your Altmill decision; it sounds like a great choice!

[@barthrh2]

The con of ONLY t-tracks is that sometimes they aren't where you want them, or you need a long hold down to reach the piece. I haven't gotten around to it, by my plan is to have some t-nuts in the base of the table, installed from the bottom, down the center of the spoilboard strips. Those are in turn drilled through to allow a hold down bolt to reach the t-nut. Putting the t-nut into the base table ensures less work when you need to swap out spoilboard strips (just CNC drill them out).

[@IDCWoodcraft]

barthrh2, That sounds like a solid plan! Having t-nuts installed from the bottom will definitely provide greater flexibility with hold-downs. It's great that you're thinking ahead about making spoilboard changes easier in the future. Keeping the t-tracks and t-nuts in mind will really enhance your workflow. Best of luck with your project!

[@goforthbmerry]

Perfect timing for me. Thanks for the video

[@IDCWoodcraft]

goforthbmerry, You're very welcome! I'm glad the video was helpful for you.

[@goforthbmerry]

@@IDCWoodcraft this was a great wake up call. I have had my machine for a long time and haven’t run it. I got too into details Dog holes brass inserts all the other details. This is simple quick and effective. If after making projects I decide I need something else, I can just as easily adapt. Perfect is the enemy of good

[@WanderingStar-fq4cn]

I used t-track on my longmill. I have two suggestions. The first is about half way down the spool board is to cut the t-track and leave a 3/4-inch gap. This will allow you to inset another clamp if needed for the project without having to slide it all the way from the far end. This is especially true if the CNC machine is against a wall. The same if you have a fence at the front that you have pri-mounted to position the project. The second is to go out on the internet and look for 1/4 x 20 nylon bolts, buy some 1, 1-1/2-, and 2-inch lengths, some 1/4 x20 nylon nuts and some 1/4 x20 nylon wing nuts. These along with wooden hold downs will prevent router bit damage, the bit will cut right though the nylon and wood if they are placed in the wrong position. I also took a marker and colored the head of each size bolt a different color so it was easier to find in the pile. I also find that I use the 2-inch length most often, but the other lengths come in handy.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

WanderingStar-fq4cn, Thank you for sharing those detailed suggestions! It sounds like you've put a lot of thought into improving the setup for your LongMill. I’m sure other users will appreciate your insights!

[@JoeLazzara]

Great video!! 👏👏👏

[@IDCWoodcraft]

JoeLazzara, Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed it!

[@richsmith9772]

Keep making Altmill videos. Your videos were the reason I decided to finally jump into the CNC world and starting by buying an Altmill!! Sienci Labs hopefully notices your value to them!! I have your Beast, Hog, and 1.5 surfacing bit already and my Altmill wont even be here until Jan 2025....

[@IDCWoodcraft]

richsmith9772, That's awesome to hear! I'm thrilled that my videos inspired you to jump into the CNC world with the Altmill, and those bits will definitely serve you well when it arrives!

[@LYTOMIZE_Woodshop]

I always zero at front left... I've considered clamps to get away from the painter's tape and CA glue method but I'm told I'm resistent to change. Haha - I guess I'll keep it as is with my LongMill and will wait to adopt clamping when I add an Altmill to my shop. 😂

[@IDCWoodcraft]

LYTOMIZE_Woodshop, It's great to hear you're sticking with what works for you for now! The painter's tape and CA glue method can be quite effective, but clamps definitely have their own advantages when you're ready to make the switch. I was wondering if you could do me a favor, if you can use my link when you buy your altmill. It gives me a little pocket change. Thanks! Here's the link, if you decide to use it: sienci.com/product/altmill/?ref=idcwoodcraft

[@jimkonrad2528]

I recommend using the CNC to install the first t-track. Use it make sure the first t-track runs parallel to the Y-motion of the gantry. Makes it so much easier to mount projects at 90 degrees. (Hope this made sense. Kinda difficult to clearly explain)

[@IDCWoodcraft]

jimkonrad2528, That makes perfect sense! Using the CNC to install the first t-track for alignment is a great tip to ensure everything stays square throughout your projects. Thanks for sharing your insight!

[@PalmersPicks-mz7tk]

Mr. Garrett, I really enjoy your videos as they are always filled with great tips and tricks as well as links. I will be sure to order all my starter bits & roughing bits when I order my Altmill (hopefully at the end of November). Even with the backlog, it is worth the wait for me. BTW, did you add the shelf underneath or was that part of the plans from Sienci?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

PalmersPicks-mz7tk, I'm glad to hear you're enjoying the videos! Happy CNCing brother!

[@ApexWoodworks]

Garrett, I've started using standard bolts, washers and nuts and use them in lieu of the ones you're showing. I saw the bolts to length to keep them only long enough to do the job. This keeps them out of harms way of the mill.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

ApexWoodworks, That sounds like a great approach! Customizing the bolt length can definitely help improve safety and functionality while using the CNC machine. Happy woodworking!

[@donclemins3936]

I used your wood clamp design and modified it by installing a furniture thread insert (not the flanged type so you can flip the clamp over) on the clamp end opposite end of the stepped end to put the 1/4-20 bolt thru . Then make clamps different lengths for more versatilely . I use wing nuts with flanges on them for the down bolt . Remember to all ways try to move your project be fore running. I cut my mdf to fit tight against the T track also it must be a machinist thing. LOL

[@IDCWoodcraft]

donclemins3936, That sounds like a fantastic modification! Using a furniture thread insert for added versatility is a clever idea, and making clamps of different lengths could definitely enhance adaptability in your projects. I love how you've tailored the design to suit your specific needs. It's always great to see creativity in woodworking! Happy crafting!

[@laser31415]

I may consider next time i do a full replacement. I use a combination double sided tape, inserts and dog holes or even screws. My spoilboard is in 2 pieces so I can replace either half. It means I can buy a 2'x4' handi-panel instead of a 4x8 sheet. It is the height of the clamps is why i choose not to use T-track. A wood clamp in an insert or a wood peg in a dog hole works for me for now. I'm a hobbyist so time isn't money. I install the inserts into the main board not the spoiler board. To replace either half my spoilerboard, I screw it down, run a toolpath that adds all the dog holes and drills holes to access the inserts. The inserts never get taken out of the main board. Surfaces it to the height of the other half and done. Having said all that, I do plan to use my longmill to build a new table for my longmill. I want to a torsion box to make it all stiffer. I might consider T-track just along both far edges like you have. That could be used for clamps that the endmill can't reach.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

laser31415, It sounds like you have a solid plan for your workflow and spoilboard setup! Using a combination of techniques really helps you maximize efficiency, especially as a hobbyist. Your idea to add T-track along the edges is a smart way to address the endmill reach issues, while still keeping flexibility with your clamps. Building a torsion box for extra stiffness will definitely enhance your setup. Best of luck with your Longmill table project!

[@markcvitkovich2983]

I noticed that you have both an Altmill and a Longmill with a spindle. I'm new to the CNC wood game but am a Heavy Equipment Mechanic and have experience with both milling and CAD software. I'm debating on buying one of these 2 machines as you have. Despite the marginal difference in price which one should I purchase. I could see my wife and I having a booth at a craft market in the future .

[@IDCWoodcraft]

markcvitkovich2983, That's great to hear you're diving into the CNC wood world! Both the Altmill and Longmill are solid choices, and it really depends on your specific needs. The Altmill offers great precision for detailed work, while the Longmill is excellent for larger pieces and has a wider cutting area. If you plan to make larger crafts for markets, the Longmill might be more beneficial. Ultimately, think about what types of projects you envision for the future!

[@matthewwachno6249]

A question for you about the T Track spacing. You're saying no less than 6", can you explain why I wouldn't want to go close together. My first thought when you showed both clamps facing each other was that I would want my clamp "reach" to be halfway to the next t track, or basically have the two clamps "kiss" so that you're far less limited in clamping position. Thanks for the videos!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

matthewwachno6249, Great question! Keeping the T-track spacing at least 6" apart helps ensure that there's enough room for the clamps to maneuver without interfering with each other. If the tracks are too close, you might end up limiting your clamping options and could face difficulties with wider workpieces. Having that space allows for more flexibility when positioning your clamps, ensuring a secure hold without binding. I'm glad the videos are helpful to you!

[@davidhittenberger1651]

Over torquing the clamps will pull the T track mounting screws out of the MDF. But, the flexibility is great!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

davidhittenberger1651, Absolutely, over-torquing can definitely cause issues with the screws pulling out. It's all about finding that perfect balance, isn't it? Glad to hear you're enjoying the flexibility!

[@barthrh2]

Not if you use bolts (even intermittently).

[@tedlitz7266]

Good viveo !

[@IDCWoodcraft]

tedlitz7266, Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed it!

[@GeekRedux]

I'd be concerned about a glitch or mistake driving a cutter into one of those tracks and ruining it. I use Microfit Matchfit dovetail tracks for the same functionality and no extra risk of damage.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

GeekRedux, That's a valid concern! Precise setups and careful operation go a long way in preventing any mishaps. Each track system has its pros and cons, and it’s great that you found one that works well for you!

[@philmeadowcroft9637]

How for uou cut trough a board and not cut channel

[@IDCWoodcraft]

philmeadowcroft9637, To cut all the way through a board without making a channel, you'll want to ensure that your CNC tool path settings are set for a full-depth cut. This usually involves selecting the appropriate bit and specifying the right depth in your software. Make sure you're also using the correct feed rate to maintain the integrity of the cut. Adjusting the cutting parameters accordingly can help achieve a clean through-cut. Happy CNCing!

[@johnk6847]

One Con I can see is, you can't surface the whole board because of the clamps. Not an issue, I guess, if you only need to surface the project area.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

johnk6847, That's a great observation! Clamps can definitely limit the surface area you can access, but as you mentioned, if you're only focusing on the project area, it's often not a big deal. Thanks for sharing your thoughts!

[@EdAgers110]

One thing you left out as a con is the price. T-tracks are not cheap! Two tracks 4 feet long cost more than a half sheet of MDF plywood! Just something else to consider.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

I did forget that. Thank you for mentioning, and thank you for commenting because it helps others recognize the other issues that I haven't considered

[@taxivideo]

L'idéal est d'avoir 6 planches de mdf de 5 à 8 mm que l'on colle avec du double face sur le plan de travail ( entre chaque emplacement de T-track ) pour servir de martyr. Quand celui-ci est trop abimé, il suffit de le décoller et de le remplacer.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

taxivideo, C'est une excellente idée d'utiliser des planches de MDF en tant que martyr, ça protège vraiment le plan de travail et prolonge sa durée de vie. En plus, c'est pratique de pouvoir les remplacer facilement quand nécessaire. Merci pour ce partage !

[@EdAgers110]

That is an excellent idea. I’m going to use it the next time I have to replace my spoil board. Thank you.

[@RoyEsslinger]

Not all T-Tracks are the same. a lot of clamps are different sizes. Make sure your clamps and T-Tracks are made for each other.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

RoyEsslinger, You're absolutely right! T-Tracks can vary in size and design, so it's essential to ensure that your clamps fit properly for the best results. It can make a big difference in both convenience and effectiveness when working on your projects. Thanks for sharing that tip!

[@TheDustyShed]

C4A

[@IDCWoodcraft]

TheDustyShed, thanks brother!