Linear Rail Lubrication

[@lotechgreg]

Great video. My lubrication needles measured 1.6-8 mm and, still allowed the grease to "spooge" out, not be forced into the lube ports, so, I took an extra needle cap, drilled out the end, and, tapered it to a "fine" point,on a belt sander. This, used as a seal, allows me to force the grease through to where it needs to go. Also, use a very "fine" needle, and, apply grease directly to the balls from the bottom side. Grease, ports,and, balls, slide, slide, slide, repeat, repeat, repeat. HTH.......

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

That is a good idea. I'll need to give that a try. Thank you!

[@mtraven23]

good stuff. Related question: you ever pull the balls & mic them? On the few I've pulled apart, I found all the balls to be the same size. More high end rails alternate between full size bearing balls & spacer balls, generally a few micrometers smaller. It allows for better rolling. anyways, I'm thinking about "re-balling" mine, just curious if you or anyone else has played with this.

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

Thank you! I have not taken them apart yet. However, I did take them out of where they were being used for a repair (the rail was not the problem). Brand new these felt slightly rough & slightly noisy. After several hundred hours of use, I could not believe how they had transformed. Smooth as could be with drastically less force needed to move the carriage and virtually silent with no play. I would get this brand again. When it comes time to service them, I will certainly mic them to see where they are. Thank you for watching!

[@mtraven23]

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop good to know, mine do seem a bit noisy now, printer still in production so pretty much 0 use. Make sure you got a good setup when you go taking those apart, the balls want to go everywhere! I use a tray + a magnetic sheet to keep everything together. Also, be sure everything is clean. Thanks for sharing your experience. Every detail matters.

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

@@mtraven23 Thank you for the tips! These are on a 3d printer, so a very lite load. I'm super curious how long these will run before needing to be taken apart.

[@Festivejelly]

Very clear. Ive just come back to revisit this video because ive had to just replace my rails after having my 3d printers in storage for a long time. I really should have been doing this from the start if I had i probs wouldnt need to replace them. You see so many people saying just spray lube onto the rail and run it back and fourth but I always though bearings were supposed to be packed, hence the port I guess!

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

I hear alot about applying oil as well. That might work if the printer is open and the rails don't get warm, but these have a grease port. It must be for a reason. Thank you!

[@truegret7778]

Thanks. BTW - you did say when reading the Hiwin manual, to move the carriage 3x block lengths and repeat.

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

Thank you!

[@truegret7778]

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop 😃I've been investigating linear rails (actually considered linear steppers in the rail - too $$), and was curious whether the you've noticed an improvement in surface quality (assuming you've competed you Voron build....) [;^)

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

@@truegret7778 I can't state that I've seen an improvment because this Voron always used rails. But I can state this printer (once tuned) prints better than any other non-rail printer I've had. I'm not sure thats a reasonable comparison. If your non-rail printer has good bearings and accurate wheels, it should print just as good.

[@fahmialias]

Do you have any recommendation for rust protection on the rails?

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

The rails in this video are stainless steel (I think). However every once in a while a thin coat of oil or grease should help keep that rust under control.

[@gabachobarbudo2704]

Love your channel thanks for the stl for the stealth burner carriage. Just curious, what type of accels ore you getting. I’m building a second v2 which is almost done now using hiwin rails this time.

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

Thank you! Right now, I'm at 5000 for acceleration for clean prints. I'm limited by my Y axis mass on the 2.4 350. I can't measure resonance with my accelerometer since changing to Stealthburner since I ran out of 5v ports. I'm making a few changes and once I have a proper connection for the accelerometer, I will test again. I hope with the reduced motor size and weight the numbers go up. We shall see soon. I will publish those ASAP. Thank you very much for watching and asking! I will post those numbers soon....

[@radmin2]

This is a video I wish I had seen before my build started. Great none the less.

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

Thank you!

Hey, it's nice to see you're going strong with build. How did you liked the kit so far?

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

So far, I really like the kit. Most of the parts seem to be of high quality and it was just so convenient. I'll know for sure once I actually get this running. I would purchase a kit from Blurolls again. There is only one part I'm a little worried about, the bed heater. Another viewer showed me a video that was posted of another build where the heater was not working correctly. Physically, the bed heater looks great, but I will be careful once this is running and spend some time making some measurements of the heater to make sure it's good. But so far, I would recommend the kit.

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop great to hear, been following this kit for a while and it's just... Seemed too good to be true for the price. I had big doubts about genuinity of the branded parts. But if you say it's good, I'll definitely consider this kit more seriously. Thank you for the videos and have fun.

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

@ , If you have any concerns about specific parts, ask and I'll try to provide a close up photo. Almost everything seems brand name and genuine except for that heater...

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop major thing I was worried about is rails, motors and bed.

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

@ : So far, I think all those parts look great. But the true test of the bed will be heating. I print a lot of PETG and will start printing more ABS which should heat up the bed nicely. I will post a followup on the bed once that has happened.

[@ArcaneZorro]

Is aerosol white Lithium grease the same as the tube?

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

Many people say it's not. I have no experience with it. Since the video, I have also learned that "White Lithium" is not necessarily white. I have been using Mobil white lithium that can be purchased from online 3D printer retailers in a Syringe and it's yellowish / lite brownish and it works even better than what I used in the video. It's actually thicker as well which I think works well in a hot environment.

[@Fullscreen007]

Can i use the Lithiumgrease with Graphit in it from lokal Hardware Store?

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

According to the manufacturer's guide, no. It will cause problems.

[@jezclark4882]

So there's a little more to grease choice than this. There are TWO separate Hiwin documents to refer to; and there are some slight differences when using them in a low-load situation like a 3D printer. Grease manufacturers recommend the following for linear rails when used on a 3D printer: NLGI00 (rather than NLGI2 that Hiwin recommend), 30-200Cst, NO solid particles (i.e. no PTFE, and no whiteners - so the stuff you're using isn't technically kosher), and must be lithium-based. PTFE should be avoided because it can cause the bearings to slide rather than roll, which actually increases wear. Also if you use oil on the rail to prevent rust, it needs to be miscible with the grease you're using inside the carriage. All of that said, I don't think I've ever heard of anyone having lube-based problems with rails on printers. Industrial use is entirely another mattter.

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

Thanks for those details. I went with thicker grease due to the hot environment and hiwin's recommendation. I have not heard of anyone having lube trouble either. But I found the details hard to find relating to the proper way to grease them and a lot of argument about oil, thin grease and thick grease, using solvents, disassembly and more. When I came across the hiwin doc, it seemed so simple and worth a video. Thank you very much!

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

One more thing. I never equated "white lithium grease" = whiteners. I've never seen lithium grease any other way. Good to know. Thank you. I also added a note on the video description recommending what Voron or Hiwin proposes.

[@jezclark4882]

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop mine is definitely lithium-based and is definitely the yellow/brown colour. But I think you're right, most of them are usually whitened.

[@tomhall5164]

I download a PDF document from HIWIN. Title: Lubricating instructions for linear guideways and ballscrews, 30 pages. Did a search on "lithium" - Nothing, not a single hit, no reference to lithium! Per page 24 - "For grease lubrication, we recommend greases in accordance with DIN 51825 (German grease classification system) of consistency class NLGI 2 as specified by DIN 51818. For normal loads, standard greases with the designation - K1K“ are sufficient." The document also had this... "Greases with solid particles such as graphite or MOS2 must not be used." What is MOS2? MoS2 are high quality lithium multipurpose and EP greases. Soo... lithium is not recommend by HIWIN? Additionally, Multipurpose Lithium Grease (Natural) is available in NLGI grades 1, 2 and 3. Another publication from Bosch Rexroth Corporation on lubricating rail blocks recommends "High performance lithium soap reference here is HIWIN Spec Sheet for their G01 (standard recommendation NLGI Grade 1)>>>

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

@@tomhall5164 The document I highlighted in the video that recommended lithium grease was from Hiwin as well. So, I don't know. It's very confusing. However, the loads are very low, much less than the rails are rated for. Hopefully as long as there are no particles in the grease, it's probably ok. But the safest is probably what you found in your search. But I can say for sure at this point, the rails in the printer are silent and smooth. The printer is running great. At some point I will clean the rails and I will probably switch the grease to what your found above.

[@tarcisiobatista5595]

Man it feels like i went in a rabbit hole, i hmjust wantaded an upgrade since the orig8nal bearings on my enders are binding, now i have to learn all about greassing rails, 😢

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

Good luck! Thanks for watching!

[@tarcisiobatista5595]

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop thankyou for answering, i should be fine with the original lubrication for some time right?

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

@@tarcisiobatista5595 If you are describing the oil on the rails that they ship with, no, that's not alright. Get some grease or some other high quality oil with no particles or additives and add to the bearings in the rail. You should not need to clean the shipping oil off outside of a wipe with a paper towel as it's just mineral oil.

[@miguelfunes2397]

Hi, Could you tell me where do you usually buy your hiwin rails, please?, in Amazon I purchased some but were really cheap quality. Thanks

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

I purchased a kit that included these. The 3d printer kit was from Blurolls.

[@Schuessel]

Hi, great Video. I never even realized that tiny Holes... 🤭 But maybe it's not the right grease for you, i think you miscalculated the Speed. Lithium Grease is for 60m/min -> 6000mm/min -> 100mm/s. Thank you for your work on this Videos, very helpful for me - and your english is very good to understand. Greetings from Germany.

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

Vielen Dank. I did end up switching grease later , but I’m not sure it made much of a difference. I have noticed some cheaper rails have fake holes…

[@TravisDeSouza]

Are these original hiwins?

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

I believe they are. The seem to have all the real markings and everything moves very nicely with no noticeable play. The bearings also have a retainer and everything looks spotless.

[@yucel136]

Realy informative video. I like it.

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

Thank you very much!

[@TomLombardi]

Thank you!!!

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

Glad it was useful to you!

[@jaydekaytv]

I’m not a fan of White Lithium grease for anything. I don’t like anything about it and it always looks terrible haha.

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

I get it. I actually have switched to non-white lithium grease since that video. Thanks for the comment and watching!

[@jaydekaytv]

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop And you’re a better person because of it. Depends on the need but I don’t like the drag and tackiness of white lithium. Is non-white the same? For lightweight stuff super lube is awesome. It’s almost like a mix of fine grease/oil mixed together.

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

Non-white is actually a little thicker. But since I use these in an enclosed 3d printer, the grease seems to get softer in the heat. It seems to work well. Seems I need to give super lube a try.

[@Braddubya8]

They are 100% not hiwin if you bought a kit. No way. No how. But you don't need hiwin rails any way.

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

I believe they are. They match exactly unless the ones I matched against are fake or these are really good copies. They work amazingly well for what I'm using them for. I have been told by others that they are real, but "b" stock.