Hello, I’d like to share a brief story about this printer, which appears to have been recently discontinued by TwoTrees. You might find it listed very cheaply on various platforms, especially Banggood. I purchased it from Banggood because of its attractive price and availability from their local warehouse in Brazil. Unfortunately, it arrived damaged and completely unusable. The box was torn and poorly taped, with shipping labels placed over the disguised damage-strongly suggesting it was knowingly sent in this condition. Despite providing clear photo and video evidence, Banggood's customer support has been incredibly frustrating-full of repeated delays, vague responses, and no real resolution. To make matters worse, the local supplier who shipped the printer issued a fraudulent invoice that significantly undervalued the product. This entire experience has been a nightmare to resolve. Has anyone else faced similar issues with Banggood or their suppliers? I’d really appreciate hearing your experiences or any advice you can share.

I have it all build and now I'm trying to get it to work on my raspberry pi (with klipper controling ender 3 clone) I see it with boot option in SSH , but what next ?? Can't follow your steps for they are for CAN bus , wich I don't have , howto proveed to get it to work on usb>>raspberry pi..I'm in the woods here as all of the vids on youtube are about CAN BUS..please advice or point to directions 🙏🏻

Very nice build. Thanks for all the videos sir.

Great built...now let's see it at work 😁

For those that are wanting to use the ERCF with proprietary printers like Bambu labs, you need to either have a Klipper based 3D Printer or change your toolhead to a Klipper based Printer. Klipper plays hand in hand with the software that that controls the ERCF v2. Syncing both the 3D printer and the ERCF using the same software that controls both units. You won’t be able to use this system with a Bambu Labs printer because Klipper is open source as to where your Bambu labs printer is not.

i am using marlin firmware

Awsome but price is not so awsome 😂

$400 needs to be gold plated and have your choice of free printer to go with it. That is a $50 cabinet with $20 mods.

I’m not a fan of White Lithium grease for anything. I don’t like anything about it and it always looks terrible haha.

How sturdy is it? Does it have any play wobble anything to that nature. I wish the top shelf was a little bit bigger or adjustable for A.M.S or filament heater enclosure.

Any rubber seals for the filament area?

Price is ridiculous

The amazon link don’t work

Amazing, tutorial. I laughed so hard when he said he left support on! things we deal with every day.

Could probably print or buy a piece to cover the gap between the doors like they use on glass shower doors. Not that it would make it air tight completely, but if you had a bed slinger in there, there's bound to be a little bit of a draft coming through a gap that big once it starts heating up in the chamber. Other than that, I really like that. I dunno if $400 is worth it to me, but still a nice piece!

welcome back!

Hi, I have the same skr 3 ez motherboard, I would like to configure the ps_on pin for automatic shutdown at the end of printing, I have the bigtreetech 1.2 relay, but it turns off after a few seconds from turning on the printer. I used it before with marlin 2.1 on my ender 5 plus, now on klipper I don't know how to configure it, plus I installed the tmc 2240 v1.0 drivers. Thank you if you can help me insert the configuration on my fluid. Giovanni

Iam using Arduino mega with RAMPS 1.4 HOW TO CONNECT TO IT

So it turns out that they don't make printer beds for large printers like my Anycubic Kobra Max (Original) which is a sahem as I think those are the ones that need the most help and have the greatest warping. I was wondering if anyone here has any thoughts on me going out and getting a glass bed made such as thickness, type of glass, etc. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Glad to bump into your vids 👍🏻 , just ordered the kit ..trying now to print ahead , have the BOM list downloaden from github but 1- there are things I don't need to print 2- I don't quite yet know exactly know when it need to be printed black and when red .Printed the manual but it takes some figuring out. also I have a Qauila(ender clone) altered a lot with one of it a raspberry pi with klipper on it so i reckon it has to work. bit worried about the cutter ..i have no way of placing it to the extruder (direct drive) so it has to go to the rabbit..but if the new fillament s going to push the old filament enough to stay right behind it and flow into the extruder? we'll see .. thank you for your buidling vids

18:00 first time seeing a Delta 3D printer auto-leveling. looks like it’s dancing,lol, Might be taking some of my money soon.

It seems your camera have 5 dead pixels.

what would the printer use AI for?

Love the videos. I've watched all of yours several times. I appreciate how you deliver the information. Are you going to do a video showing your system up and running?

I need one .😀

Worked like a charm! Great video!!

is it possible to have magnets around the bed, into the surface, eliminate the use of that magnetic sheets at all. i know this seems a harder thing to manufacture now, but if the magnets only are only seated around the bed, enough to hold the steel sheet, thats all it needs right? i just dont know how the heat transfer rate gonna be affected since it is metal on metal now.

Do you think the FLsun super racer for $200 is a good price?

great video , i'm an fl sun boy since my first printer , was waiting to found my new printer ( i'm running a V400 ) , but i'm not impressed with print quality , speed is a thing , quality and other , for me the V400 fill my need , i will wait for the new bambu

I’m on day 3 with the T1 pro and I’m still blown away at how incredible the machine is. I’m sold on deltas. If you going to print you might as well do it with style.

Had some issues with my FLSUN T1, but their support team was awesome and helped me get everything sorted,you can really tell they care about their customers.

at first, i was a bit hesitant about delta printers, but during black friday, i snagged the v400 at an insanely low price. a few weeks later, i was totally hooked. when i decided to upgrade, i saw your post, and now i feel like i’m about to break the bank

Thanks for the video! The timed shots are really convincing. Honestly, I didn't believe they could print that fast, but it seems like it's a fact now. What surprised me most is that the bench quality wasn't compromised at all.

where is part 6?

@3:14 " I've got a thing for heatsinks and so I like big heavy heatsinks and I cannot lie." You had it right there.

Я бы добавил перемещение по Y для зигзагообразной чистки для использования всей площади щётки.

I've been using that same old case for years and still loving it. My rig needs an upgrade now and I was almost going for a 120 mm water cooling (AiO) system - but 240 mm seems viable. Still, isn't it a bad idea to push the hot air into the case instead of out? I think I'll go for some mild case modding and try to install the radiator on the top panel somehow - which is better anyway (radiator higher than pump = better cooling).

can i operate a printer with this board without can bus?

21:21 Coming from a dream marlin setup, I was stuck not connecting till this. Learning all over again.

is there reason i cant go to z0? i followed all the steps and when I manually job to z0 its perfect but it wont allow me to go to z0 always stays at like 3.51 for example. i can jog it to z0 with controls and it sat perfect but something blocking it.

I am going to do this tomorrow. Thank you so much for your help.

Got a huge question. I have a longer LK5 pro. About 4 weeks ago, prints were doing fine. Put about 300 hours on it, since then, now I get a lot of what looks like under extrusion, at random points. I wonder if doing this would fix it. Now my question, how did you come to this? I have what looks like thick wavy lines at time where prints don’t exactly lay right. It looks like a blob then thin line then blob.

If you don't know the difference between a barrel connector and a butt splice, maybe you're not the guy to teach people how to wire things. 🤔

Can you run the 320mm AIO artic cooler???

thanks for the video. What i don't understand is why can't the printer just induction probe the center and know how much offset it needs to be. why does it need a reference point? I'm asking because since my Lulzbot it has been this way and there must be a good reason. Can someone enlighten me please?

That’s that beat! 😂

Anybody else have an issue where you start the print then it stops and get an error message saying extruder is not hot enough, then have to manually heat up the extruder then manually press the resume button? To continue the process

If you run a big GPU, you're going to mount the 200 outside. I had to mount my Noctua outside, also it would be nice if they updated the panel to be able to mount one fan in the left side for the gpu.