Lionel ZW How to do a Complete Tear Down & Update.

This is a 3 day repair and update on a ZW-250 1st generation. It has been edited down to only the good stuff one needs to know about cleaning, re-lubing, and updating these fine classic transformers from Lionel Post War.
#classicmodeltrains
#lioneltrains
All items used can be purchased from Amazon & E-bay
Schematic & Control Dial Assembly breakdown can be found on
Facebook/Classic Model Trains.
E-mail me at: [e-mail]
Find me on Facebook: profile.php?...
Find me on eBay: www.ebay.com/usr/classicmodel...
Mailing Address: Classic Model Trains
1507 Old Hardin Road
Billings, Mt. 59101
@classicmodeltrains
My second channel mentioned link below.
@RonsClassicRVs

[@classicmodeltrains]

Before I do a repair video on stuff I'm not to certain of, I will comb the internet and collect information. I came across this video made by Ed at his KZbin channel "TheCreativeMind" and he had the BEST procedure for servicing the reversing unit. His channel taught me how to do the servicing I did to my reversing unit in this video. Ed also goes in depth on diagnosing the actual coil / transformer portion and explains how it does what it does. I have included a link to his video here. kzbin.info/www/bejne/p4G9f5R3iKqSotk. Thanks Ed for teaching me how to rebuild these ZW's 🙂

[@TheCreativeMind]

Thank you for mentioning me. You did a great job on rebuilding your ZW. Keep up the great work.

[@classicmodeltrains]

@@Gma7788 I believe that is a resistor

[@Cbtrainnut]

I may be mistaken, but the small voltage leak is there to keep the electronic reverse unit from cycling into nuetral when you stop the train. That way when you start the train back up you don’t need to run through the Nuetral, reverse,nuetral, to forward again. I know the American Flyer transformers were made this way. In order to cycle an American Flyer reverse unit you have to raise the dead man handles to cycle the reverse unit. This feature is on the larger 15B transformers and up. Hope this helps a little.

[@1911olympic]

These transformers are really beautiful and made to last!

[@classicmodeltrains]

I agree with you!!

[@bradkorando]

Thanks for making this video on rebuilding the Lionel ZW transformer. I had the good fortune of picking up one of these a few years ago that is in good physical condition, but with a old and scary looking power cord. I set it aside with the intention of one day having it serviced and using it on my layout. You do a terrific job explaining and photographing the the rebuild process. I'm going to watch your video a few more times and try to do the rebuild myself. Regads, Brad

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks Brad! I hope you get your ZW up and working again soon :-)

[@bradkorando]

Success!!! My ZW is no longer a boat anchor. :) Your excellent presentation of the rebuild process motivated me to tackle this project on my own. I referred to the video during each step of the process and found the work to be a lot of fun. Thanks Ron!

[@classicmodeltrains]

@@bradkorando Glad you got it going!!

[@canyonpast]

How cool, another amazing video. Thanks for all you do. I enjoy your work and thank you for making the hobby great

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thank you for your kind words! :-)

[@SantaFeBob]

Excellent topic. Very cool demonstration. I like how you do the research and find a tuneup solution. Thank you for sharing.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thank you S.F. Bob :-)

[@davidokelly1140]

Love that go all in or not at all! No stone unturned. I miss your HO content but am entertained by your ambitions in all gauges. Thanks Ron!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks David. HO still to come. just want to try out some different scales of the classics.

[@105C09]

I love your programs. This is my second time through. The older trains, Lionel, Marx and O and S gauge American Flyer are my passion. They have personality and a legacy that the newer trains lack.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thank you William! I like the way you think about the older stuff. :-)

[@lynnmccurdythehdmmrc2561]

WOW, what dedication to detail. Excellent video.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Glad you liked it!

[@davidhayden9336]

yes, but i'm 75 and have the shakes.

[@rickyrodriguez5744]

Thoroughly enjoyed this video. Very good on the fix and the broken Bakelite. Saved it on the thumbs up side again excellent video.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Glad you enjoyed it Ricky! Thanks for watching it :-)

[@richardnelson-ux1zz]

Excellent learning tool video every time I watch your videos I learn a lot

[@classicmodeltrains]

Awesome, thank you!

[@cudathehawgjetfixer7520]

Playing with electrical components is always fun! I was a aircraft election (spark chaser) in the USAF back in the 1980's, then in the 90's the AF pulled a rivet workforce update to that career and added environmental systems to the elections job so we became EVEL or ELEN depending on t which base you got stationed at. But it looked like you had a bunch of fun rebuilding & updating that old 1940's vintage Lionel Transformer, boy they made them to last too, comparing those oldies to today's newer stuff there is no competition, the newer stuff if it stops working toss it, the old stuff you can fix it. Today's manufacturing is putting controlled obsolescence into their wares, nothing is made to last like the stuff before the 1980's. Great job, now you could start your own business fixing up those old Lionel train equipment pieces for the masses!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks Cuda, I agree how manufacturers engineer in planned obsolescence. Gimme the old stuff any day. This ZW was built to be used every day for years. Thanks for keeping our "Boy's" safe and in the air :-)

[@ccrm10]

That was really informative! It makes me feel more confident to try something like this.

[@classicmodeltrains]

You can do it!

[@sgtcote1]

Thank you for such an in depth break down and rebuild. Ive done the basic rebuild on my two Zws one is the early 250 watt and my 2nd is the later 275 watt. Ive upgraded the diodes, breakers, rollers and power cord but never beyond that. I absolutely love my Zws knowing that they have an amazing past and they will last a long long time. I have a modern MTH z4000 transformer for my more modern trains, but I prefer the post-war era simplicity. Again thanks and keep those trains rolling.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thank you for taking the time and leaving a comment :-)

[@msoul3248]

Thank you for taking the time to make this video.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for watching it!!

[@user-vv3nn4jc3w]

Excellent video…learned a lot…

[@classicmodeltrains]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@Hyrev1]

Amazing work is all I can say Ron!👍👍

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thank you so much 😀

[@DennisMurphey]

Oh Yeah very well done video. I had that transformer or one like it. I loved be cause I could control 4 engines at once. I sold it. Sadly. Then a Fellow in New Jersey contacted me. He had the Flyer dual control with Volt meters a real beauty. He had bought on line and like yours it was broken in shipping. I agreed to try to fix, it. He was a real nice fella . I had rebuilt 3 Flyer Switchers he had and gave the rusty one for helping. I get the transformer to find one side was crushed from the top. the handle was cracked at the lower pivot boss and the maih housing was broken off at the support for the pivot, it was a real mess. But the unit looks brand new. At the time i had a tiny hobby 3D Printer and I had been making train parts but only small ones. He said was not in a hurry and did not the money to pay anyway so take my time. Nearly a year later I was able to get a new bigger better 3D Printer and now had the tool to print his parts. I ground the handle pivot to a straight line angle then printed a pair part to match the shape and super glued it in. It perfectly matched the other handle. Now the housing. I was going to donate the housing from my dual control, but it did not have those Volt meters. I hated to take mine apart cut it up when his was in such a good shape. So i decided to remake the entire lower part and screw it into the housing as neatly as I could. So the round heads could be seen but were polished stainless and looked very good. I reassembled the transformer and it all worked great. So if you get a Flyer Dually let me know i have the housings pivot frame for the handles, if you need one. Nice video well done, your editing is wonderful, Good Job, Dennis

[@classicmodeltrains]

Wow Dennis!! Sounds like your quite the fixer / fabricator kind of Feller!! I have a Flyer single knob transformer with the gauges coming up for a repair video in the next few months. I will reach out if I need something made. Sounds like your the Feller to go to :-)

[@VintageRoadRail]

Great video Ron! Rebuilding that transformers is way beyond me. lol You have way more patience than I do. Looking forward to seeing in action.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks 👍

[@ecidaho]

Great video! Awesome work. But beyond me but was really interesting to see you rebuild a great looking transformers. Looking forward to your work on S and O27 locos. All the best!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks EC :-)

[@cathrynm]

I agree, this is an attractive-looking transformer. Final results look great.

[@timothywarren1609]

Nice to see one totally apart!!! Personally I like to keep them as original! I have refurbished mine with very little tear down and replaced parts with just like parts. They work like new, and should last another 60-80 years😃.Great video!!! Thanks for the info!!!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@daviddrummond8911]

your dismantle & modernize great and good camera also - ive got 2 to do in UK/England so even saw your schematic that helps-now to source the parts & reruns your teardown.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Glad my video was helpful! Hoping you get yours updated with no problems

[@henryszubielski8601]

Well done! I learned a lot! Thanks

[@classicmodeltrains]

Glad it was helpful!

[@johncopenhaver6777]

Great video I HAVE REBUILT TWO OF THESE it was very hard I have 3 others and will use your video step by step thank you

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thank you John! You're going to be a old Pro after finishing up 5 of them all together :-)

[@regisbraga3833]

It’s easier to build an A-bomb with stuff from Home Depot… Kudos Ron! Magnificent work! Looking forward to see the locomotives rolling!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks Regis!!

[@MrCarsdude]

wow! awesome! you make it look easy.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thank you!

[@TwistedMacGyversTrains]

Great video Ron! We really needed this video. Thank you!! FYI: That voltage leak is called residual voltage. Because there's nothing else attached to the post. MTH Z4000 also does the same thing.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for your kind words! and good information :-)

[@donaldwiller9238]

Great job 👏

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thank you! 😃

[@mattkramer4132]

Best ZW build video I’ve ever seen! I’ve thought about buying a modern Lionel ZWL transformer, but I think I’ll hang onto my two postwar ZWs instead. They’re very repairable and reliable… unlike the modern stuff with its myriad of circuit boards and tiny components. The new transformers will probably not make it to seventy years old like the ZWs have and end up as expensive paperweights. 😂

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thank you for your kind words and I like the way you think. The "Old" stuff has proven itself over time.

[@steelcityrailroad5095]

I'm doing about the same to a AF 30B. I picked it up for 30 bucks but had missing handles. Thanks for the informative video, Ron.

[@classicmodeltrains]

$30 is a pretty good deal. Hope you get it up and running with no problems finding repro handles :-)

[@steelcityrailroad5095]

@classicmodeltrains The handles were missing, the cord was cut, and the tin shield sign is screwed up. So far, I taken the voltmeter out, cleaned, polished and got the needls working again. I'm installing some diodes called TVS diodes. They will protect my modern locomotives against voltage spikes. I'm watching your video on the 293. Those are great running engines! I wish I had more room for an HO layout as I like working on them engines and rolling stock. Keep up the great videos, Ron! If you find time in your busy schedule, stop over and check out my channel. Thanks!

[@jebbohanan2626]

Well, now I gotta upgrade my old TYCO Transformer. lol Good job!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks Jeb :-)

[@4everdc302]

I'll never use one but it was interesting to see that control go back to work🙋🚂🇨🇦🇺🇲

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks 4ever :-)

[@jamesscalf712]

I've also made the upgrade to robo strips, I'll never go back to old strips lololol I love them

[@classicmodeltrains]

They sure are nice!!

[@joesask857]

NICE THANKS MAN

[@classicmodeltrains]

You're welcome!

[@zendoargos4988]

Great video. I found it really helpful. I have several old ZW transformers and I have replaced the power cables on them because they were sketchy to the point of not using the transformers. The whistle rectifiers only work about half the time so I have been curious about replacing them with the diodes. Now that I've seen it done, I have to decide whether I'm up for it myself or if I want to pay someone to do it for me.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Glad it helped. It's really a pretty easy process. Just looks scary because of all the wires running everywhere

[@jagc1969]

I like it. It looks like some kind of Art-Deco controller. I can imagine Ming the Ruthless driving his trains with one like this as he thinks about how to kill Flash Gordon.

[@classicmodeltrains]

:-)

[@bobcropsey2550]

Nice job doing the early version, but I wish your schematic covered the later 275 model as there are a few extra posts on the back of the whistle/ reverser. When I got mine it was apart, I think I can figure it out, I'll be quick to unplug it if I see the blue smoke. LOL. Thanks for the video.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks Bob. I just googled the schematic. there are several out there. perhaps you can find your version?

[@jumijorailroad2925]

I’m impressed. Electronics are like brain surgery to me. I put a new whistle diode, circuit breaker, and power cord on a Lionel 1033 and it still doesn’t work.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Practice makes perfect. (hopefully :-)

[@Iconoclasher]

Dang! That thing is built like a '52 Buick! 😜

[@classicmodeltrains]

It is a monster!

[@bernardc2553]

STELLAR Ron Back then you new you if had 1 you were something didn't get 1 till I was much older still have it tho..excellent if I decided to restore mine Merry Christmas Ron to you & Yours !

[@classicmodeltrains]

Yup! Only the "rich" had one of these. When this one arrived I felt as finally I had "arrived". I Finally made it to the "big time" :-)

[@bernardc2553]

@@classicmodeltrains Exactly My friend Boy were sum N now !

[@billwht3]

WOW! This was fascinating but I think I'm going back to my original plan of becoming a brain surgeon. I think that will be easier!

[@classicmodeltrains]

All the wires just look complicated. Swap out one at a time till its done. Thanks for watching!

[@SleeperBBQ]

TY

[@classicmodeltrains]

:-)

[@johnramirez5996]

I pre-tin my wire. Then stick them in the terminal. I slightly crimp them closed and hit them again with solder gun . Found it easier this way. No cut strands of wire. Using the solder gun last makes it so the terminal and wire a perfectly joined together.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Right on!

[@paulsteiner2953]

Great video I have this transformer and my handle somehow is jammed forward. I also wonder does a rebuild de value the teansformer

[@classicmodeltrains]

A rebuild should ADD value

[@matthewcalorossi6182]

Very in depth and easy to follow rebuild video! Any chance you can do the same thing for a Lionel KW transformer?

[@classicmodeltrains]

I could if I had one. Its real tough to find Lionel transformers up here where Im at.

[@davidstrainsandlego]

There really is a lot that goes into these

[@classicmodeltrains]

There is a lot going on. I procrastinated for a month on this project.

[@kurtsanger716]

Great video. I would use caution using a Dremel or Drill on any component containing Lead Solder from back then. A drill would probably be better at keeping the dust to a minimum. Its a tiny amount of Lead, but it is Hazardous Waste. The used Solder that we are removing when changing out the wires is Hazardous Waste too. We do not want to breath it in, nor contaminate your workplace, or your home. I wouldn't be working on it with my Lunch or Coffee Cup near by. Be reasonable, responsible, and safe. Collect used solder and store it in a covered container. Clean up the workbench often. If you are generating dust we wear a mask. After a lifetime we might collect enough used Solder to drop it off at our local Hazardous Waste Collection site.

[@classicmodeltrains]

You make some great points to consider there Kurt! Thanks :-)

[@TheCreativeMind]

@ 16:19 I knew you saw my rebuild video and @ 16:58, it was a lot easier to get the switch rivet in place by removing the board

[@classicmodeltrains]

I reviewed all ZW rebuild video’s on KZbin to perhaps learn a new trick or to before I shot my vid. Your video had the absolute best technique for servicing up that reverser switch. As you could tell I had no idea as to why a guy would drill those out, until the reassembly process was well under way. Since I used most of your technique, I am hoping you look at this as imitation is the highest form of flattery. :-)

[@TheCreativeMind]

@@classicmodeltrains Thank you Ron, yes I do. I wanted to do a solid rebuild that would last a long time. Besides replacement parts, I researched for other components like fish paper, high temp wire and carbon grease that would be equal to the original or out perform what Lionel used back in the day. I guess I did something right if you used most of my techniques. A lot of people will benefit from both videos to do their own rebuilds. I like to ask if you can give me credit for your inspired rebuild since my techniques and materials mentioned are the best. I know you don't have to since it's your video. Be well, looking forward to more projects.

[@classicmodeltrains]

@@TheCreativeMind I could put a link in the description to your vid and mention this is where I got a lot of the great ideas?

[@TheCreativeMind]

@@classicmodeltrains Thank you Ron appreciate it. As an idea on your next ZW terminal stud removal, use my drilling method. Don't go in straight like I did, drill out the rivet at an angle and the rivet snaps off on the inside of the casing. I learned this while doing my second ZW. Grinding off the studs can cut into the brass bar possibly affecting the current flow and heating up the bar. The terminal can heat up and loosen over time due to thermal differences in operation. Also tightening the new terminal nut does dig into the brass bar.

[@classicmodeltrains]

@@TheCreativeMind Great info their Ed. Thanks. I also pinned a comment at the top of this comment section Giving you a shout out for teaching me the in's and out's of these classic transformers. Thank you for sharing the information!!

[@w.rustylane5650]

I think that while I had that disassembled, I'd go ahead and replace that 10 watt carbon comp resister with a carbon film resistor or even a wire wound resistor. Those carbon comp resistors will eventually break from all the heat. At least we do that when we Hams work on our radios. I just noticed that after adding the conductive carbon grease that it left a trail of grease on the fiber board which will lead to shorts in the future. Maybe you should have wiped it off after rocking the switch back and forth. Cheers from eastern TN

[@classicmodeltrains]

I shall look into that

[@vfdjnk8746]

Hi Great video. Not sure of the best forum to ask a question but wanted some clarification about the testing you do at the end of the repair. Should each of the 4 terminal sets have a voltage of about 19-20v when each throttle is turn up to full power? Thanks for sharing! Vincent

[@classicmodeltrains]

Hello Vincent, That is correct.

[@paulsmith6553]

Good work ! What is the resistor for and why was it not replaced? Also would better grounding help with the floating voltage?

[@classicmodeltrains]

Hello Paul, As much as I work on electrical stuff, I'm not an electrical wizard kinda feller. I'm sorry I cannot intelligently answer what the resistor is ultimately for. As to why I did not replace it, none of the "rebuild" parts / kits I found, did not include it, so I figured it must be a kinda bullet proof component that does not fail often. Just a theory :-)

[@dandunbar1019]

Nice video! Do you have suggestions as to where to buy the components. You mentioned a 'kit' but I've not found one that has all the parts you used. What I found was a kit for the rollers and posts. The diodes and breakers were separate items. I want to be sure to use the correct items if I'm going to spend the time. Thanks in advance.

[@classicmodeltrains]

I got them from a eBay seller trains-in- the-attic. It could have been two different kits from the same seller. Box showed up it was maybe 3" square. Here's a link to his store. www.ebay.com/str/trainsintheattic1?_trksid=p2047675.m3561.l2563

[@johnramirez5996]

Have 1. It and a lot was pulled out of a friends family scrap yard. A 70yr old engine extra motor and wheel set. Manual lift bridge. Went through it all. Made small video on KZbin a while ago. Everything ran perfectly. Someone cut the cord off controller. Gets hot running 2 tracks. Shuts down sometimes. Don't know why. I fixed what I could to get it going. Works great individually. But some times not together.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for sharing

[@motrainman4790]

Am I ever gonna need to know how to do anything of this absolutely not Yet I still watched and found it interesting

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks MO!

[@OhFU1]

On the circular Lionel plaque on top - didn't the VW series have a blank plaque like yours, compared to the ZW which has the specifications on it:stating how it is a ZW and says the wattage of 275 ?

[@classicmodeltrains]

I believe this one is a very early 250 watt version. It's definitely a ZW

[@trainzmania2022ricardo]

Ever considered doing a LIVE of your model train?

[@classicmodeltrains]

I have but the logistics of it I have not figured out yet. Would need a couple cameras for an input to the computer and a way to switch between them. Plus I’m not sure what the format would be. Have you seen some live train stuff on KZbin that works well? Perhaps send a link to one so I could check it out?

[@camstrams2343]

I just put a ZW back together after cleaning. The inner throttles feel really stiff to move up and down. Should I have put some lubricant on the insulating bushings?

[@classicmodeltrains]

Its been a long time since I did this video. Did the shaft bolts get too tight? I always put some Lub on stuff that moves. I guess I really cant help out on your specific question. Sorry :-/

[@camstrams2343]

Do you have a way of repainting the numbers on the handles?

[@classicmodeltrains]

I do not. I believe the process is the same as painting engravings on bowling balls. If I ever had to do it I would KZbin bowling ball manufacturing video's and see if that would be the same.

[@mattrupp7954]

Have you ever rebuilt an LW transformer? I currently have one that is not putting out any voltage and haven’t been able to find much on rebuilding one.

[@classicmodeltrains]

I have not done any work on a LW. Seems like all the diagnostic procedures should be the same all all old A.C. transformers. I'm wondering if you have an open in the main coil of the transformer?

[@walteranderson5090]

How fast is the circuit breaker to protect modern computer boards? Ty in advance.

[@classicmodeltrains]

I do not have the specs on the speed. It's a lot faster than the original one, I know that.

[@theplumber33]

Man that was involved. Now I know.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for watching :-)

[@SOU6900]

I know it's not related to the video, which I also enjoyed, btw, but I just have to say that Chevy is sweet.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thank you! 72 K-20 S.B. 4sp.

[@Xtream__Attitude]

Great job, I would never be able to do this... My dad would be able to lmao I been looking at this controller on Ebay, will it work on HO? It's definitely a nice Lionel controller

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks! This transformer is only used on A.C. powered applications. If you have a very old a.c. powered HO scale then yes. BUT those are pretty rare.

[@modelrailpreservation]

An AC transformer would require a bridge rectifier to run most HO scale. Of course, then there's still the issue of maximum voltage output. ZWs put out a maximum of about 20 volts, which is too high to safely use with HO equipment. Then, even if you do install or make a bridge rectifier (Simple to make, just four rectifier diodes together) you still need to install a double pole double throw toggle to reverse your DC powered HO locos. So in the end, it can be done, but it requires so much work that unless you have a specific reason, it's simpler to buy an HO power pack.

[@modelrailpreservation]

I should add, my HO layout does use 1970s Lionel train set transformers, but I did have a specific reason for this. Given the sheer number of locos I run, and they are old (1930s to 1960s) open frame motor units, I divided up my layout into power zones. One transformer for an industrial belt line, one for a yard, one for a roundhouse and engine shop, and so on. Since I do a lot of switching I already use DPDT toggles to reverse blocks of track. So between power needs, and dividing up power means seperate throttles, and the fact I had these transformers laying around anyway, it's worked well for me. Again, though, my needs were very specific, and overall the vast majority of people are just better off with a ready to use HO power pack.

[@jimbrannigan1052]

I added an inline on-off switch to the power cord so I would not have to plug/unplug the cord when not in use.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Sounds like a pretty good idea to me!

[@jblackacre2325]

A couple of things: 1) that's a great looking truck. Is that a c10 or c20? 2) any idea which amperage rating that diode is? I don't see any rebuild kits on ebay but do see a feller selling a 16Amp and a 40Amp diode for ZW's. Just not sure which one to pickup. Are you related to the guy over at Vice Grip Garage?

[@classicmodeltrains]

I just checked the e-bay seller "trains in the attic" and sure enough, I didn't see the complete kit I purchased from them. The kits they do show has everything except the diodes and the circuit breaker in the same kit. I see they also offer them separately, so I guy could still get all the parts needed from them. I do not know what amperage diode I got in the kit I installed. The Ol chevy is a '72 K20. S.B. M/T. I am not related to VGG, But I do come from North Dakota, from N.D. breeding stock, so our ancestry could come from the same lines if a guy goes back far enough :-)

[@jblackacre2325]

@@classicmodeltrains very sweet rig. I've been looking for that color to do a rebuild. Fwiw, I remembered that some guy made this internet Google machine and I found an old manual on how to use it. Apparently, it doesn't seem to really matter if you use the 40 or 16 Amp diode. So, I went big so that I didn't have to go home. We'll see how it goes. Thanks for the videos and keep up the great work.

[@scottmartin6931]

do you know why my zw 250 watt is getting hot on top when you touch it . the braker is not on no smoke .its just hot .when you touch it .

[@classicmodeltrains]

guess it depends on how long its plugged in. Mine get warm after a few hours of being plugged in.

[@paddleswake8372]

How did that old ass paper resistor survive the rebuild? That should be added to the list. Great Job

[@classicmodeltrains]

I agree. I should have found out it's resistance and picked up and installed a new one

[@bradwb6192]

Excellent work. The only problem I foresee, any rivet replaced by bolt or screw application, may work loose on you. Otherwise, nice job...

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks M.C. :-)

[@Wiencourager]

When doing that you want to apply a little loctite or even a dab of diluted shallac to prevent loosening.

[@mootsym]

After watching this, all I can say it.. I hope I never have to fix my old ZW lol.

[@classicmodeltrains]

There usually pretty bulletproof if cared for

[@jamesdenny4734]

Mineral spirits? Hmmm, that might be the ticket!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Good solvent it is :-)

[@SFCRambo60]

i would have used a drill bit to do that copper strip instead of Dremel tool.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Greetings, and thanks for commenting. Drilling out rivets is something I do quite a bit. The reason for using a cut off wheel is I find my drill bit will "grab" the material in the flutes of the bit, causing the metal to become distorted or bent. Since I knew this was soft brass, I choose not to go down that route. Not that drilling it out is a fine idea, I just decided to go down a different path :-)

[@johnramirez5996]

How much would you charge to do something like this for someone? Interested in having mine done?

[@classicmodeltrains]

I don't know. There is some guys on e-bay that do it all. I think they are getting $300 a pop plus shipping.

[@nerfreak01]

@@classicmodeltrains Like John, I was gonna ask the same question. And honestly $300 isn't bad. I just gotta get a ZW.

[@classicmodeltrains]

@@nerfreak01 it seems the going rate for a working ZW is $100 and up. I suppose if your starting to shop for one try and find one that has already been updated. Probably be worth paying $200 for it. Shipping them back and forth seems to run a lot of $$$. I’ve seen guys advertising rebuilds on EBay. Maybe that might work as a place to start looking? Non-working ones are like $20 to $75 I’ve seen in the past on eBay.

[@davidhayden9336]

will you rebuild one for us, and how much.

[@classicmodeltrains]

I'm not really set up to ship in repair jobs. I do some local stuff. These buggers are expensive to ship around.

[@chrisstewart5992]

Are you interested in doing one I found at an antique store?

[@classicmodeltrains]

I never gave it much thought. There is a lot of time involved to do this. Does your sorta work?

[@johnramirez5996]

Could use a nut driver set.

[@classicmodeltrains]

I suppose one would not hurt :-)

[@dak682]

what will you charge to do mine !! seriously ??

[@classicmodeltrains]

I'm not really set up to that. The shipping back and forth would probably run around hundred bucks. The parts were close to $40 and I had 3-4 hours into doing this. If you were local to me it would be a different story. Theres guys on the e-bay that sell reconditioned ones, you send them in yours and they send out a fixed one back. I think I saw $300....maybe......

[@johnramirez5996]

I find out the more the shipping is the less they put in it to protect it. Happened to me. $18 for shipping and 2 pieces of paper and ziplock bag. Came broke. When leaving a comment for another lot I suddenly realized I left comments on wrong order. Told them about packing and they never said anything to me. It came from Niagara falls. I think it said Donnelly or something like that. I'll check and update. So people on ebay know about them.

[@classicmodeltrains]

I believe it to be totally true! More you pay, the worst they package it.

[@TLS6723]

Does cloth covered wiring scare me? YES! Just remember...its not the voltage that was kill you...its the amps. This is why I try to stay away from 220. More amps there. And side cutters....why did we call them that? You say that now and someone is going to be offended.

[@classicmodeltrains]

I agree with you!

[@frankmarkovcijr5459]

I am all for restoring toy trains but when it comes to big heavy Transformers it pays to either buy new or have it reconditioned by a professional. When attempted by an amateur the results are deadly.

[@classicmodeltrains]

One has too have some 120v electrical knowledge in order to work on 120v electrical stuff. One of the differences between an amateur and a professional is one gets paid.

[@michaelragan5799]

Why the heck didn't you show the main soldering steps for those of us that don't have or don't read schematics? The rest of the presentation was great except for the important wire connections and routing for the diodes and the circuit breaker.

[@classicmodeltrains]

I removed one wire at a time, and then soldered in the exact same replacement wire, one at a time. I suppose I should have mentioned that in the video. The process took me probably 2 hours, and I did not want to bore viewers with this. I did provide an image of the schematic, said it was online, and I also posted it on my FB page. This kind of update is a medium level electrical repair. Schematic knowledge and soldering knowledge, should be well established before attempting this. I am hoping this answered your question without me coming off the wrong way :-)

[@michaelragan5799]

@@classicmodeltrains Thanks. I saw another vid about changing to diodes. It was not near as good as your vid and the diodes change was badly done. I was hoping yours would be more informative, but then you skipped over that part and the install of the new circuit breaker. I have 3 ZWs to do, so I was most interested in those parts. Otherwise, your vid was great.

[@classicmodeltrains]

@@michaelragan5799 The diode swap out just involved soldering the one wire that goes to the center post. the diode is grounded from the metal frame it sits on. The old circuit breaker has 2 wires going to it, but they are a little short. I extended the new wires I soldered in to accommodate for the new location. The schematic is just like a road map. Shows you were the wires start and stop. If you number the old wires, and locate them on the schematic, draw colored marker lines to help out following them. Take lots of pictures or video of the before you take it apart. All the wires look like there is a lot going on, but its just the same thing twice. I would not take apart the reversing switch like I did unless you can visibly tell the contacts are very corroded. If you believe the original wires are in good shape, then you really don't have to replace them. Make sure the fish paper is not oil soaked, or else it will conduct electricity. I hope this info might be helpfull for ya.

[@michaelragan5799]

@@classicmodeltrains 👍

[@jamesmancine8350]

You spent all that time rebuilding that unit, but kept that old resistor.

[@classicmodeltrains]

The resistor tested fine. This was a upgrade. New parts that were installed were upgraded components. The original components still functioned, But the new installed components were a better choice. Why would it be necessary to replace a resistor that's functioning and no "upgraded" resistors are available? These are my reasons behind what I do. Other people may have different outcomes. Thanks for watching and commenting :-)

[@kurtsanger716]

I would have replaced the resister too. The problem with electronics is heat and age. As the part heats up the molecules within the part move around more. Believe it or not metal molecules move, just really really slowly. Semiconductors and Carbon Resistors all change over time. Eventually the contaminants and doping within the part move around and stick together. This creates an area of higher resistance, which then generates more heat, which then accelerates the process. When the resistance goes up and the area gets larger enough then the part fails. My 2016 Chevy Van had a PCB with Resistive Traces to set the fan speed. Two of the Resistive Traces burned out within two years. Not made like the Resistor in a ZW. Back in the early 2000's I once saw a presentation on Copper molecules that had moved through a layer of nickel and then a layer of Gold causing the contact resistance to go up and the part to the fail. There is a reason that Corporations used to have Material Science Departments. @@classicmodeltrains

[@MrStevesTrains]

lol 😆 this doesn’t look like work for the amateur or the Squamish.

[@classicmodeltrains]

This is a 301 Class :-)