Liqui Moly Sludge Remover vs Liqui Moly Engine Flush (Which is Best?)

[@OwenLucas]

Liqui Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush: amzn.to/3o93BMP Liqui Moly Sludge Remover: amzn.to/40w6CIE Step by step flush procedure: 1. Pour 1 can of Liqui Moly Sludge Remover into your engine. 2. Drive for 124 miles (200km) without wide open throttle operation. 3. Drain oil and change filter. 4. If you want to remove any remaining sludge, Refill oil to full capacity and run engine for 10 minutes or go for a short drive. 5. Drain oil again (to remove any remaining old oil and left over sludge) and change filter. 6. Add new oil and you are finished.

[@andy2906]

Please buy a funnel your giving me OCD

[@jaywholoveseveryone1721]

@@andy2906 ...and PLEASE catch that drain plug before it falls in that oil! 😂But, I really learned a lot from this video. THANKS OWEN LUCAS for doing this test ❤

[@andy2906]

@@jaywholoveseveryone1721 are YOU Talkin' to ME?

[@meetsaini990]

I want to know can we drive the car for some miles after adding engine flush

[@minnesnowtan9970]

"Sludge remover" sounds more powerful to me than "engine flush". Thank you for pointing out the difference.

[@peterlattimore6013]

Makes good sense when broken down. Sludge would be caked on, therefore over a lengthy amount of time with less abrasive contents to preserve the engine internals while driven.

[@safecarsforyou]

It's always good to use a sludge remover first, then remove the crankcase , use diesel and keep staying it with a spray bottle as you scrub with a nylon bristle brush whatever you can from beneath and then the inside of the oil pan , fix them together, pour some cheap oil, with liquid moli engine flush run it for 10 to 15 minutes let it cool and then drain,then top with the second can of new oil which also need not be expensive as you are only wanting to get the traces of contamination and traces of liquid moli, the decarbonizer which is a degreaser as it can break the viscosity of the oil you are going to add and drive for the next 5 thousand miles or 8 thousand kms . Please don't do this flushing and sludge break down all the time you change oil it needs to be done only once in 40 thousand miles or 60 thousand kilometres other wise your bearing grease will vanish and wear and tear ( premature) can cause premature wear of your rings, then ring fracture, then piston shake, and piston going out of round and the block aswell due to digging as the eccentrics are fashioned perpendicular to the long axis of the crank

[@jimizbikowski4112]

So I've been a mechanic for 21 years... back in the day there was a machine called a motorvac system for engine flushing... drain oil, take off filter. Attach hoses and adapters to oil filter neck and drain plug... the machine was kept plugged in to an electrical outlet all the time to keep the solvent at 125 degrees or hotter (again this is years ago). Machine used a micron 3 (I believe) filter. Machine pumped this hot fluid through the engine 5 or 6 times, took about 30 min after hook up.. and when I tell you it FLUSHED EVERYTHING I'm not lying.. oil pressure was spot on.. and even weeks later the oil looked as if it was a new car... the stuff in a bottle works sure but gotta do it 5 or 6 consecutive times keeping engine hot and changing filter each time

[@OwenLucas]

That is quite a machine! I question what shops do nowadays but with equipment like that, you get what you pay for.

[@uroskostic8570]

@@OwenLucas Well, you can make scuh a machine, easily. Electric heater for central heating, electric oil pump, and hoses. But, you can also use diesel, and flush it 2-3 times, thats cheaper method.

[@kingpickle3712]

I remember watching someone do that while waiting for my vehicle. I was fascinated by it for some reason 😂

[@wlkthewlkofjc888]

Company still exists. The machine you mention is discontinued. You can still get the manual off their site.

[@Ravsawicki1]

Yot engine was really dirty inside, and finały was cleaned after 200km, cause working longer and soecific could make his job.

[@tssci6774]

Finally, someone that does full volume oil change before using a flush. 10-20%of old oil will remain. I perform a clean oil flush once a year. Let's the new oil perform better and for a longer time. The darkening of the oil is normal from heat and blowby contaminants. Heat new oil in a stainless steel pan, up to 220F, several times. It will become dark. A better way to measure the performance of these flush products is using oil particle count test. It measures all particulates from 4-30 microns, and is a recognized as an industry ISO standard for oil cleanliness. A full oil analysis costs about $40 USD. Good video, much better than 100s of videos on flushes that don't rinse the engine.

[@OwenLucas]

Interesting that heating the oil alone discolors it, the 126 mile drive was 2 hours almost non stop so the engine definitely got up to temperature.

[@tssci6774]

@@OwenLucas keep up with methods, bring common sense to the many car myths out there.

[@wallerwolf6930]

Yes, this is completely correct, every oil becomes darker again after a short time, after just a "normal" oil change, without such a remedy, it can even look very black again, like after thousands of kilometers. Good to see if you manually measure the oil level on the stick. The Liqui Moly still had a cleaning performance here, because particles could be seen again in the filter after only a few kilometers of driving.

[@trvman1]

So basically it close to $150.00 to do this. 4 oil changes (if you do it yourself) and engine flush.

[@arlokkkk]

how many oil changes before using the flush on a 65k mile car do you think is necessary to do a good flush?

[@Davo_1991]

That risky free pour, this guy has balls

[@ramonciprino5880]

??

[@Davo_1991]

@@ramonciprino5880 how do you not get it?

[@ulrichskaarsgard7848]

I went back 35 years and heard my dad yelling at me watching that.....🤣

[@onlywenilaugh6589]

3:14 was a failed free pour. :)

[@blackrifle6736]

@@ulrichskaarsgard7848 *Ha!, ha! So did I and Dad still does...*

[@ShikiKaze]

I am glad someone on KZbin has the brains the use a proper oil filter cutter. Everyone out here trying to kill themselves with an angle grinder or lose an eye with a sawzall.

[@OwenLucas]

Agreed, $25 well spent. Its tough looking at a filter cut with a saw as you cant tell what metal or contaminants are from the saw blade or the engine.

[@ShikiKaze]

@@OwenLucas That's the issue with most of the reviewers just cutting into it with power tools. I can understands tin snips. But when they say try as best they can to not contaminate the filter but then proceed to cut with a power tool it makes their effort moot. Great job on the thought process. Subbing for that.

[@mhakantekin3894]

It's great to use an oil filter cutter, but he needs to learn how to hold it upside down :)

[@nas979]

To answer your last question you could have done another oil change after driving same km when added the sludge remover and see if the discolouring was due to driving that distance or due to the sludge remover.

[@sylvain.robichaud]

Totally agree. I was going to write that exact same comment. I would have actually loved to see that, which would have truly completed the test.

[@MrUsaer]

Yep. Ended test early. Had no money for gas. Spent it all on oil. Regardless, great video!

[@Bane54545]

If you plan on flushing your oil, it's important to consider that 5-10% (not an exact figure) of the old oil may remain in the oil pump and other parts of the engine, even after draining. While flushing can help break down sludge and make it easier to drain through the oil drain, it's important to note that the contaminated 5-10% of old oil left behind can mix into the new oil, degrading its quality to some extent. Keeping up with your recommended oil service intervals and using the recommended oil standards from your car manufacturer can help you change the oil before it degrades and forms carbon deposits. This will allow you to replace the old oil with new oil, keeping the lubricating benefits of the new oil and avoiding the need for engine flushing. However, if you want to truly flush your engine, you can use an engine flush product with the old oil and then drain as much contaminated oil as possible. You can then top up the oil twice, once to dilute the remaining old oil with minimum negative deposits and then the second top up you can then add the new oil to complete the oil service and keep up with your oil service intervals to prevent future issues. Using oil additives that enhance the engine oil can also be useful in preventing carbon build-up and extending service mileage, but it's still important to change the oil on the manufacturer's recommended mileage basis. Engine flushing may not be necessary or practical for every oil change, and it could be a waste of money if the oil is being changed correctly. However, it can be useful for older cars with high mileage.

[@ruudhermans8024]

Loo

[@BenState]

Exponential decrease with oil changes.

[@flycorvus]

If your car is abused by previous owner, good luck!

[@oluskloc]

Best flush is add 1liter of kerosine to old oil, run for 10-30 minutes, not on idle but avoid heavy load for engine just light driving or some idle and moderate rev (2-2.5k rpm) on neutral. Drain everything, change oil filter use just cheapest one. Buy cheap synthetic or semi-synthetic oil 1.5 times quantity You need for Your engine. Remove Your spark plugs and add about 100ml of kerosine into every cylinder, leave it overnight. Next day turn engine with statrer still without sparkplugs to avoid hydrolock and remove excess kerosine from cylinders (probably there will be none anyway, all or most drain down to oil pan through piston rings softening carbon deposits but just to be safe check it). Put sparkplugs back. Now add 50:50 mix of oil and kerosine to Your engine top it off. Run it on neutral with moderate revving (or very very light driving) for 30-60 minutes. Drain everything, change oil filter for cheapest one. Top up engine with cheap oil to clean the residue. Drive on it short time like 100-300 hundred km/miles. Drain oil and replace oil filter. Now use quality oil and filter. You're ready to go. Change Your oil and filter often, I do it usually between 10-12kkm or 6-8k miles even my car manufacturer recommends like 20-30kkm/15-20kmiles oil changes which is ridiculous but welcome to europe. This will not only clean the engine oil system, also piston rings and combustion chamber, big chance to reduce or even eliminate oil consumption of engine, make it run better. Many times oil consumption is not because of worn piston rings it's because they are stuck with carbon deposits (some natural due to long use of engine but mostly because not changing oil on time before). If You willing to spend more money You add some engine flush instead of kerosine like 50% oil 25% of kerosine and 25% of engine flush, it will be even more effecient. Don't use like some people 100% kerosine or diesel fuel instead of oil because You will have too low engine oil pressure so one you risk damaging engine second with low oil pressure and flow it doesn't work as well

[@anirudhaarvind1736]

Is it a myth that flushing an older engine causes it to spring leaks ?

[@bdtaylor1979]

Might be time to switch from a Bluetooth funnel to a real funnel 😂

[@99ekcouper]

He likes funholes

[@Druze_Tito]

Good one!

[@armenmed122]

Lol

[@dillonostrum9264]

I've seen people spill more oil with a funnel than this man did

[@bravebrowser261]

Ha

[@grizzle273463]

That was awesome. Thx for taking the time to make this.

[@OverlandOrange]

I used Engine Flush on my 2005 Tacoma w/ 234k, with issues impacting the timing chain. Replacement of the chain was recommended to the tune of $4,500. $18 Engine Flush and 1 extra oil change to flush it all out, and my truck drives like new and no longer needs the repair. NO exaggeration, this stuff is awesome.

[@OwenLucas]

Glad to hear it worked out! 💪

[@Primis_09]

My ford expediton 2005 which have 5.4 3V engine has been run around 380K Can i use it or it will screw something in the engine

[@OverlandOrange]

MY opinion is that you'll have to use it twice; 1 full can w/ new oil and an oil change, then a fresh new can of engine flush with new oil, then a flush of new oil & new filter, then final oil w/ filter.

[@joehardy7984]

To help answer your question about the darkness after the moly flush. Molybdenum disulfide is a dry lubricant somewhat similar to graphite. It’s a fine black powder mixed with whatever else is in the engine flush. The results can seem a little misleading. It gives the appearance of more contaminants being removed when really it just turns things dark. It’s used as a thickener in complex lithium moly grease. Great for ball joints and cv shaft bearings (not the tripod gears in the shaft). The thickening effect is why they recommend keeping away from full throttle circulation. The idea with the moly isn’t to clean anything but to coat the engine components allowing them to have the additional lubricating affect from the moly. Not sure there’s enough moly in the flush to have any real impact.

[@OwenLucas]

Very interesting points. I’ll have to check the MSDS to see if there is moly in the flush, if they even disclose that. Would be interesting to see if LiquiMoly turns new oil on a new engine dark! The part about thickening is interesting as I thought the solvents in the flush thinned the oil. Thank you for your insights!

[@NoHandleAT]

The color of the Oil is not related its cleanness, If you boil Engine oil it turns dark/black. Do the test, put some engine oil on a pan and cook it for a couple hours you will see it turn black without absolutely no "contaminants".

[@OwenLucas]

I will take your word for it, no need for me to bring motor oil into the kitchen, my wife would be very mad! Very good point though, as a previous commenter mentioned, particle count would be the definitive test.

[@Hernsama]

I second that. When I bought my new car I did an oil change at 500 miles and 1k miles and it was brown both times. It had little hint of gold but that’s about it.

[@Athiril]

Fresh oil also doesn’t come out that dark after 125 miles

[@jackylsmith8138]

@@Athiril if it is a diesel it will come out black. It is designed to.

[@shckltnebay]

@@Athiril Disagree

[@SimTrixSon]

Man I been looking for a really in-dept video about the liqui moly engine flush and this is perfect!

[@kinsmart7294]

After these intense flushes its always an good idea to drop the oil pan and open the oil pickup filter and clean the pan. Sometimes the interior of the oil pan is painted and the flush can remove the paint and make it clog the oil pickup tube.

[@kieranstone1136]

100%!! glad to see somebody mention this

[@rogeronslow1498]

If you drive a BMW or Audi then removing the pan to check the pickup filter is a must. Very often its clogged with bits of plastic from chain guides etc. It'll make your hair stand on end when you see the amount of crap in the pickup screen.

[@isaacjrv]

What a video. Amazing, from my experience as I change my own oil, synthetic oil gets darker quicker than conventional oil due temperature, you can see this in other videos as well when they use pots with high heat, gunk in the oil will vary from engine to engine, as I remember my old Toyota pickup truck will get the oil pretty dark within 3000 miles and my Hyundai accent GDI was not as dark after 7000 miles and not as full of gunk as the old truck, but definitely color in newer oils is not actually an indicator as when heated will darker quickly anyways.

[@uranusneptun5239]

I did two flushes with the sludge stuff in combination with cheap BUT SPECIFIED oil for my engine (a 1.9 JTDm). It worked wonders! I initially planned to do at least 3 flushes because the engine didn't look well maintained but this has been enough. I then filled up with high quality oil, also Liqui Moly and during every oil change and flush I used a new oil filter also a Bosch quality part. I'll repeat this process before the next oil change after 10k km and will probably continue to do so. To get it even more clean and let it stay clean. Engine has almost 200k km on it.

[@OwenLucas]

Is the engine in an Alpha Romeo 159? That is a beautiful car. Glad to see the flush worked out for you! A good oil with a lot of detergents will also help clean your engine between flushes.

[@averagedev7768]

I must ask where you found a 1.9 JTDm with less then 200 000km. The dash bight be showing that but trust me not a single one has that milage. None the less that is a very reliable engine. I suppose you got it in the Alfa 147 or 159 or in Fiat Stilo

[@Druze_Tito]

10k is a pretty long interval

[@eponymous7910]

​@@Druze_Tito not really. 6000 Miles. It's about average I would've thought

[@Druze_Tito]

@@eponymous7910 average doesnt mean anything. It is too high. I dont recommend going more than 6000 km no matter the oil. If you love your car.

[@lawrencecavens5760]

You have to remember that the Sump will have sludge that builds up over time and will get washed out with solvents. To help prevent this condition use WD40 in with your oil. 1 cup will work fine and clean all internal parts and you will also find that oil changes will be abit fewer that you'll need as the engine is getting a gentle clean out. I did this with a 2008 Ford F250 Super Duty and great results happend as I let the WD40 work with my oil my engine has returned to near factory condition. One of my lash adjuster was starting to stick when the engine was at operating temp and light ticking was heard - on cold start up it was all quiet - So i tried this in adding WD40 and It sure worked and freed up what ever the stickiness was at the lash adjuster and no more tick .

[@cbidwell91]

Good chance the color changed due to temperature from your drive. Oil turns black simply by getting hot, but the little chunks you got out are a good indication that the product was helping. Cool video, and at the end of the day it can't hurt to try and flush an engine. AMSOIL has a similar product as well.

[@datsuntoyy]

No it doesn’t. If your oil discolors from getting hot, you have some seriously bad oil.

[@TheRatTravels]

Blow-by occurs when combustion gases and possibly some unburned fuel pass by the piston rings and enter the crankcase. These gases can contain carbon from the combustion process, which then mixes with the engine oil, causing it to darken. If the piston rings are worn out or not sealing properly, blow-by can increase, leading to more rapid oil discoloration.

[@cbidwell91]

@@datsuntoyy Yes it does. It is a well-known characteristic in the oil industry around thermal/fluid dynamics. Simply heating oil in a beaker will turn the oil black. Now, there a many other factors which can contribute, but oxidation and heat will turn the oil from its gold color to black quite quickly. Project Farm has some great oil testing videos (much of which can be subjective) but he will heat up oil on hot plates and after 30 minutes of heat the oil is black.

[@datsuntoyy]

@@cbidwell91 Burning oil will turn it black, ordinary use doesn't get that hot. I've seen plenty of oil samples in my 50 years of working on cars with a few hundred miles that have no color at all other than the light amber it comes with. Likewise, MANY years ago I've seen brand new oil that's nearly black. Hot plates get a lot hotter than a car engine does. My car's maxes out at 220 (hottest I've ever seen it) yet my hot plate can get over twice that. In his test he's heating it to 400 degrees and flashpoint of Mobil 1 5w-30 is 440 so he's heating it to nearly catching on fire. He also talks about the oil smoking, in cooking it's called the smoke point and oil burns when it his the smoke point.

[@fastst1]

Also beware, sometimes if the sludge is really heavy, it can end up clogging the oil pump pickup screen. Used to add a quart or half a quart of ATF to an oil change, the atf has amazing amounts of detergents in it to keep the transmission squeaky clean. Keep going forward with regular oil changes.

[@CrazyChiefXxX]

wouldnt that be hard on turbo bearings? if you drive a OEm turbo 4?

[@Chris-nm1jr]

No it wont. So much detergents and emulgator in it.

[@fastst1]

@slimsherman5818 That's correct, 500-1000 miles before the next oil change a shot of ATF into the engine oil. The biggest generator of nasty sludge is cold thermostats, short trips and crazy intervals between changes.

[@makgstefan]

i hear this answer all the time everywhere. Be aware that using engine flush can clog the oil pump or the pickup screen. Have you ever seen how big is the pickup screen and how big are the gaps? If you can clog this pickup screen it means your engine is tearing apart not just sludge. To clog this screen you need pieces of the bearings or the pistons. It is not so simple to clog the pickup screen. And if the engine can clog because of this it means you need a change of engine not just sludge removers.

[@fastst1]

@@makgstefan Oh, yes pistons will clog the screen, the holes are typically .5 mm or so, a badly sludged engine can send enough carboned up oil goop down south to clog the screen and usually kicking the oil pressure warning on eventually. Had some customers that wanted the screen cleaned the cheap way, hole saw the pan, clean the screen and weld it back up. Sometimes it'd work for a little while.

[@Atilolzz]

Can we all appreciate the precision at 1:10?

[@swaggerjacker1482]

Um, did you see the not precision at 3:14????

[@danielwatts9803]

​@swaggerjacker🍻🫗😮1482

[@YazidiOmar]

Best test i ever see in youtube thanks for your time and investement

[@one7decimal2eight]

On oil analysis for each one would have been the icing on the cake.

[@ClarVad]

I was taught that your oil turns black no matter how clean the engine is. There is always some stuff that gets past the rings on the piston and gets into the oil. Great video.

[@IvanToman]

You forgot last part of experiment. Drive another 200 km now without any cleaning aditive and drain again. If you see significant difference between that and previous sample than it works; if it is again similarly dirty then it does not.

[@Apegabe]

Liqui-Moly products just work! Great video.

[@esotericman22]

I had a friend in Huddersfield years ago who had a Toyota Avensis, which he'd bought second-hand years before we met. We we're talking one day, and i commented to him, it's about time you bought a new car as yours has 225,000 miles on it and he said no way, I love my car, it has never let me down and I've never had an oil change, not even once since I owned it!! True story.

[@jaywalker6464]

I love the video, straightforward no bs.

[@noob_mechanic]

Thank for the time,effort and money spent in the making of this video for other people benefit...salut

[@southerncross3638]

I've used Rislone engine treatment for years. it's not so aggressive. I dont want blocked oil galleries. I use it in the notorious gm 3.4 V6 . 260.000 miles, no timing chain problems.

[@triodak]

I use Engine Flush Pro (# 2037) every time I change oil (Once a year at 8-12k km). Engine is 1.8T from Audi. I idle the engine filed with Flush for 90-120 min (not the recommended 10 min). After 10 years of this treatment even 50 min idle does not dark oil much. There still is "dirt" in engine but to work with it Flush need 90 min minimum. Good quality 0W-30 oil is a little darker after year of use. In the past it was dark straight after oil change. Oil filter always have few small black pieces of sludge (I cut open them). Oil consumption is on the same level for years. It did decrease a little after first 2 years. I do recommend to use engine flush every oil change. Six times for 90 min then once a year.

[@javieroargubi]

wow 90-120 mins? 2 hours of idling?? that cant be good?

[@knallaff]

😂Not for your wallet and not for the environment

[@RoMeKiNe1]

You are crazy 😅

[@daliborzak2485]

I remember changing oil only after like 800 miles on port injected naturally aspirated engine. It didn't darked that much like oil after your sludge remover test. So I suppose that sludge remover still does something.

[@tbryan1697]

Really good video quality and close ups. Thorough experiment with inconclusive results. Great effort. Thanks!

[@OwenLucas]

Thank you very much!

[@trvman1]

Yes, basically all it does show if you change your oil 3 times in a row it comes out clean.

[@dimmacommunication]

I prefer the new interchangeable filters :) with top mounting, no oil mess and way easier :)

[@alexanderbarth8320]

Good job. I never thought somebody would go through all this struggle. That was good information.

[@milfordcivic6755]

The best engine cleaner is to change your oil every 6 months or 5000 miles.

[@ralfrufus6573]

Best comment in this section! 🤝🏻

[@eugene9000pro]

5000 miles in city/trafic jams or 5000 miles on highway? 200 motor hours is the right answer

[@ralfrufus6573]

@@eugene9000pro Do you measure the distance you drive or the time? Our car is not a stationary machine. And with 5000 miles you are on the save side, even at severe & demanding conditions like high speed autobahns (that means pedal to the metal in Germany) or stop and go inner-city traffic. The person above wrote 5,000 miles or 6 months. I would have written 12 when driving very little, but agree about the distance. In Germany we have the metrical system, I change my oil every 7,500 kilometers in winter* and 10,000 in summer - if I do less I change oil every year in autumn when I go from summer to winter tires. As a result to this regime I don't have to top up oil between the oil change intervals. *Winter is more demanding on the engine and the oil.

[@TheLancebringer]

I have a Ranger i bought that had meticulous records of the oil changes at 5k miles. Oil is still super dark and has a lifter ticking

[@ugniusskeivys972]

I used fluch on my old ford transit mk6, I couldn't believe the result, there was no more smoke and the engine started with half a turn of the key. I recommend!!!

[@OwenLucas]

Great results!

[@sbrader97]

But since the sludge remover is weaker to be able to be used while driving 124 miles i think it could still overall clean out a engine better than normal engine flush thats run at idle as it gets longer to work and the revs might get it into other parts of the engine like vvt which might not happen at idle though ive heard that can also cause issues if you flush sludge and block the vvt filter screen with sludge

[@OwenLucas]

That is a very good point, especially about the vvt screen.

[@CL9k24a3]

Always replace vvt screen after flush. When you are at idle than no harm can be done

[@theredscourge]

Nice touch leaving the drain plug to get covered in the oil drain pan to annoy the OCD types X-D

[@blackrifle6736]

*Ha, ha! So true. That's why a magnet on a stick exists.*

[@dillonostrum9264]

It definitely was a good cleaner as ive seen lighter oil on diesels after 200 miles since an oil change

[@chingo3625]

How often do you change the oil? Keep it at 5k miles, you will see the difference.

[@Ram14250]

I think that 3.6 L GM V6's are very shootie engines when they combust fuel. I think the oil will get darker just by driving. Those little particles you found in the oil filters are just from driving and the oil collecting shoot. It was a fun video to watch though!

[@michaelmyers3892]

I have a 2002 Subaru AWD outback over 250,000 + miles on the original four-cylinder engine smoking none of that stuff but 95% of those miles or all highway so I burned up most of your carbon and sludge because of that but now I'm doing a deep dive and going to give her a thorough cleaning and that includes dropping the oil pan cleaning out the pick up screen and oil pan you in a double flush and clean she's worth it she's been a super reliable car all over the United States including the Rocky mountains

[@OwenLucas]

Interesting, give it a flew flushes first, might be able to avoid pulling the pan off. Congrats on taking care of the car to 250k! 💪

[@michaelmyers3892]

@@OwenLucas she's been a remarkable car how many people underestimate the Subaru and how reliable they are just normal maintenance and these things will go forever

[@gregs7519]

@@michaelmyers3892 make sure you replace the head gasket with the new MLS style if you haven't already done so

[@bestbuildpc]

I learned from a very experience guy to blow air into the oil stick so u can clean rest of oil. Have u ever tried it?

[@OwenLucas]

That's a great idea.

[@ibrahimoruc5795]

i do this every time. half a handful of dirty oil comes out

[@johnnymustang3332]

Just don't forget to drain away the condensed moisture inside the compressor tube thru the water remover cap before.

[@flycorvus]

Interesting idea, thx. I'll try it at next oil change.

[@91bravo0317]

Does no one use the old transmission fluid trick anymore?

[@shanetseng6040]

The test was almost perfect!! Only part thaz missing is to keep the constant of 160miles drive between every single fill and drains (and you said it too). But good test tho overall!

[@OwenLucas]

Thank you! Yes, that's basically 2 hours of driving, would have been a lot of filming time lol.

[@shanetseng6040]

@@OwenLucas yea, right! lol

[@ambrogiogatti3429]

Questo è l'esperimento più completo che abbia mai visto. Complimenti!! Io tuttavia non uso i tuoi prodotti, uso il Liqui Moly Clean 1019 Non ho mai fatto le tue prove, ma sono convinto che un po' di pulizia all'interno del motore la faccia.

[@OwenLucas]

Grazie per i complimenti signore. Non ho sentito parlare di Motor Clean 1019. Non è disponibile negli Stati Uniti, ma vedrò se riesco a procurarmene uno. Liqui Moly produce così tanti prodotti che la loro gamma è davvero impressionante. Grazie ancora.

[@cuvame]

When dealing with diesel engines. Color doesnt matter because it gets dirty as fast as 1 2 3..... so usually I check for the consistency. Yes it is black but then consistency should be watery and not thick like honey.

[@OwenLucas]

Great point!

[@jacekkangaroo4402]

in my 3.2 liter turbo diesel engine oil changes color after 1500-2000km

[@cuvame]

@@jacekkangaroo4402 you use synthetic or mineral?

[@jacekkangaroo4402]

@@cuvame always full synthetic

[@cuvame]

@@jacekkangaroo4402 imagine.... your even using fully synthetic and is goe sblack after 2k hahaha but I bet the consistency is still watery which is what every owner should look for.

[@CJ-yf5cr]

Thank you for taking the time to do this. I'm getting my oil changed soon and this really helped me. 👍

[@OwenLucas]

Glad it helped!

[@m.pietro9087]

Thank you for this good video. Regarding the color of your oil I don’t think 200 miles drive is enough to make the oil look dark. It must be the result from Moly cleaning.

[@knallaff]

It's so. I use a cleaning additive from Mathy and I am absolutely convinced that these additives cause more dirt than a normal oil rinse would ever do.

[@agboadeka7629]

Thanks for the info. I just placed an order for the enhine flush plus for my 09 Lexus IS 350 ....hopefully ill see results from my oil burning 🤞🏾

[@johndangelo9630]

I would have sent the oil samples to get tested. You may discover that the sludge, and engine flush products may have also introduced contamination to the engine bearings... to begin that slow wear...especially if the additives also had an opportunity to bypass the oil filter.

[@Alvon_PR]

I would recommen using diesel oil because it had high TBN which cleaning engine, it will clean your engine from sludge slowly without cloging your oil pump pick up screen.

[@free2chasehappy]

I wonder how much the Engine Flush could clean out after running the Sludge Remover… Great vid!

[@OwenLucas]

Interesting question, you would hope it got everything.

[@ethanmcquaid1]

Incredibly thorough! Love your attention to detail! Definitely subscribing.

[@jaybird7300]

Funnel?

[@OwenLucas]

One must have a steady hand, 2 out of 3 fills isn't so bad eh? I had a yellow towel under the oil spout which caught the spilled oil on the 3rd fill.

[@videomaniac108]

I have a Nissan 370z and would monitor the color change of my oil over the 3K oil change interval I used. I found that even after 1K miles the oil would only be very slightly darker than when new. I would say that there would probably be no discernable change in color, unless you're running a diesel engine.

[@kupasotomotif]

in here many people have decent success cleaning engine sludge with oil brand pertamina mesran B40 mixed with 10% palm cooking oil. It is limited to 10% because more can cause filter jam. No need for engine overhaul. And it is used normally as usual engine oil. The alternative for other country would be diesel engine oil with group 1 base oil, usually have pour point between -6 to -10 degree celcius. For cool place, corn cooking oil can be used as replacement.

[@OwenLucas]

I would stick to just diesel in that case.

[@kupasotomotif]

@@OwenLucas Many of those people failed to get result from many engine flush product including 100% diesel fuel. Engine flush do not produce filter oil jam at all because they are mostly useless in cleaning sludge. The end result is not comparable at all.

[@johnnymustang3332]

@@OwenLucas I used to use mesran B40 diesel oil and I would also stick to it as you do since it has 10+ TBN with roughly 1500ppm of zinc content. You would never know what are fatty acids in the palm cooking oil can really do to your engine when they react with combustion byproducts (especially in a diesel engine), using high sulfur fuel as we had here.

[@CHEVI789]

I change my oil every 7500-10,000 km (4700-6250 Mi)which is every 6 months in my case, and every time I look at the oil dipstick it's so clean, I learned this from my old 70's car where I was forced to change it due to oil loss, and that car had done over 380,000km (237,500 Mi)and still flew like a rocket, new oil and filter keeps your engine clean and the most important thing, your seals nice and soft.

[@reinhardwolters7180]

Old deposits will not be removed by simply rinsing with oil. And I was told that there are funnels for transferring liquids.

[@SaurierDNA]

I put the Liqui Moly Sludge Remover in my old - 1979 - John Deere tractor, never had a oil change after that... Seems all to work great and keep the engine clean.

[@binagarten4667]

I did a BG oil flush, and then a further 4 oil and filter changes. I do have to stress at this point the moter was a diesel. The final oil at a cost of after £200 was light. Within 20 miles of driving it was black as the Ace of Spades. The car was a VW Golf TDi 1.9 BXE engine. My uncle a mechanic of many years standing came and gave me a kick up the jacksie, he said you have just wasted £200, and worse still so many hours, days and time. People buy carsfor the sum I spent in oil changes and flushes!

[@OwenLucas]

Yeah 1 drain is enough, but at least your engine is super clean!

[@michaely6665]

Cylinder compression test at start and finish would have interesting.

[@rustler08]

LMAO, no.

[@lizardman1303]

Why did u change the oil before using the sludge remover . Or why not doing a couple of oil changes after the sludge removal . And after that u could have drove the same amount to answer your question if those miles turned your oil black or if it was just sludge residue

[@OwenLucas]

The multiple oil changes were to make sure there was no old dirty oil in the sump. With completely clean oil, you can see if the engine flush cleaning action works because the oil should get very dirty after the flush is used.

[@masautomx2131]

The best way after flushing the engine, is to remove the engine carter and clean all the sludge acumulated on it

[@kebruya]

In my opinion the sludge remover would be the safest way to flush engine, since its less concentrated, it will slowly dissolve the sludge, trying to flush it in 10 minutes would possibly break away a big chunk of sludge possibly clog your oil gally.

[@fernandogadala-maria6749]

If you want to prove if it was the driven miles or the engine flush. You would have had to drive the same miles with the last oil change that was clean

[@johnstopford9633]

No the low milage drive would not change the motor oil that dark. I would say its due to removal of contaminates after the final oil drain with sludge remover.

[@sanjeevbhaskar5472]

Change oil every 4 months and oil filter every alternate oil change, you won't need any sludge remover or flush for 300,000 kms.

[@anggismay6840]

what if use engine flush 1 liter or 2 liter...? and leveling with engine oil, will be clean...? or broke a engine..?

[@OwenLucas]

Use the amount in the user manual to fill the engine. You want it to be full. The multiple oil fills in this video were to have clear oil to see if the flush worked as indicated by dirty oil, so 1 oil change after the flush is all you need.

[@anggismay6840]

@@OwenLucasthanks for your answer, oh okay, if that too much sludge, will be disolve if use the liquimoly engine flush 1 liter or 2 liters..? or not..?

[@OwenLucas]

@@anggismay6840 I think 1 flush would be enough, what ever remains after the first flush of oil should be enough. I don't know the capacity or liters you use or the dimensions of you engine so it is hard to tell.

[@anggismay6840]

@@OwenLucas my engine just use 3.6 liters engine oil. 🙏

[@followthetruth3283]

Very informative video. Thanks for your efforts ❤💐

[@OwenLucas]

Thank you for watching!

[@calebholaway5740]

If you did one more oil change without the flush and drive 124 miles, that would tell you if the last dirty oil change was due to the flush or just driving 124 miles. If oil came out cleaner than the flush+124 miles, then that goes to show the flush had something to do with final oil change being more dirty(removing more sludge)

[@bmaul62deepsea16]

Dude, please buy a funnel

[@ukorihcah]

great video. did wish that you did 1 more oil change after the flush and see if 140 miles was dark again and if there were any particles.

[@kris856]

Please try some Archoil or Oilsyn Powercleaner... I used to use LM, but after I came across the AR stuff, which I consider to be the best ones on the market, I will never try anything else

[@NorthlanderMN]

Gonna do a BG epr flush on a Camry with 165000 miles. I’m gonna change it twice but changing the oil filter one time because it’s a real pain dealing with. Should be fine.

[@arthurmroyce]

Back in the day, we threw in a quart of kerosene and let the engine idle for 20 to 30 minutes. Then we changed the oil and filter.

[@jimizbikowski4112]

Kerosene or diesel!!! Or... Trans fluid! Old school fix right there!

[@EL-FUKKO]

A bit of Trans fluid is a cheap lifter tick fix

[@hayabusettofficial4469]

@@jimizbikowski4112wont kerosene and diesel will make oil seals bcome bad ?

[@ismailraja8734]

I have Honda cg 125 cc bike suddenly there was a bad sounds from engine started to come , machinists said gear box has to be changed. But I just did engine flush by Liqui Moly engine flush and put new engine oil of Liqui Moly ..since than no bad sounds from engine ❤ thanks God

[@ds9886]

It would be interesting to see how close the engine flush product is to kerosene.

[@OwenLucas]

Or diesel!

[@andriaginting60]

After you pour the LQ Sludge remover and drive 200KM. Did you see the condition of valve train ? I think to validate the result we need check the valve. Just open the valve cover and see the effect.

[@OwenLucas]

I’d love to see the before and after but taking the cover apart on this engine, being a V6, is a lot of work.

[@andriaginting60]

@@OwenLucas Btw from 1st oil change + LQ Engine Flush to the 3rd oil change, what interval did you use ? Did you drive your vehicle for each oil change ?

[@maliknolan5711]

THANKS FOR THE VIDEO MORE CONTENT ABOUT LIQUI MOLY PRODUCTS ❤

[@Rns555]

Helpful video, could you say which one is the best to clean up sludge on pistons and valves?

[@OwenLucas]

According to the LiquiMoly engineer that I spoke with. The pro-Line Engine Flush is the most powerful of their engine flushes. Regarding the valves, you will need a specific valve cleaner. Techron is works great along with LiquiMoly 2001 Valve Clean.

[@Rns555]

@@OwenLucas thanks! 👍🏼

[@Dan-jl5ej]

The chemicals in the sludge remover/engine flush are present in the residual oil left in the engine (you cannot remove all the oil from the engine during the normal oil change) and it is still working slowly when you are driving the car. This is why the oil has become very dark after driving it for a relatively short distance...

[@torentmonkey]

My advice, run the cheapest oil for very short intervals like 1 2 weeks and under 1000 miles. Drain, repeat a few times. I buy oil in bulk like 20 liter jugs and do this to any car I buy then switch to a higher quality oil and 6 month or 5k miles intervals ( this applies to me only and will vary with usage track or grocery getting ).

[@OwenLucas]

Great point!

[@gregorydiguido5078]

If you keep up with oil change intervals in a modern engine and use a good quality synthetic oil, there will be little to no sludge buildup in the crank case. This is because modern engines have a PCV (positive crank case ventilation) system which flows fresh air through the crank case under some throttle conditions. The sludge buildup that plagued older engines was because oil vapor would mix with blow by exhaust and carbon particles and form sludge. A PCV system solves this problem at the source. IMO all that excessive oil flushing and sludge removal product is a waste, his own testing shows it. There were only a few specs in the oil filter after using the sludge remover. I doubt that was worth all the time, money, and effort.

[@OwenLucas]

That is a great explanation of how the PCV valve works. This was an experiment and those are good observations!

[@jackbarrie6007]

@@OwenLucas just do earlier oil changes and earlier filter changes looks after you engine with less bullshit if you don't put the right care into your own body it will give you less length to your life. Don't get sucked in by all of the commercial brain washing 💩🥺🥺

[@user-lz3sv5sw9u]

That’s why I always say, “The best oil flush is called an oil change.”

[@vicentepallamare2608]

Volvo have sludge build up (on p2. Platform) so I wonder if the flush will help alleviate that?

[@trythis2821]

Agree

[@sailfly2869]

This makes so much sense but my Honda has very sensitive pressure switch if not more that I’m afraid this may create more problems. So now I’m thinking about just removing the valve covers and oil pan instead. On my 1998 diesel truck I will definitely try this product.

[@Billydevito]

Of course, between oil changes you took the car for a spirited drive to loosen everything up and get the new oil splashed up into the nooks and crannies. Also, invest in a funnel. They’re only a couple of bucks and you’ll spill much less oil.

[@OwenLucas]

The 3 oil changes were rinses to set a benchmark of clean oil. Basically new oil, filter, and ran the engine for 20 minutes. Final fill was according to instructions to drive the vehicle 200 km, that’s where the action and chemicals did their work.

[@thecarguide4303]

BG EPR is the only one worth using. I’ve seen it doesn’t it times restore lost compression while performing a mild cleaning. It’s a decarbonizing product not a Engine flush/ wash

[@OwenLucas]

I’ve heard great things about BG. I’d say BG and LM are the best in the industry.

[@factsnotfeelingssendit5961]

Quart of diesel idle 10 minutes drop oil. Repeat if necessary. Seafoam in the crank works well too.

[@khudayarkahloon-j8p]

Thanks brother .love your work from Pakistan Respect your work...thanks once again

[@TheSupergunman3000]

Keep up with this content and you will reach 100k in no time, accurate testing, direct to the point, helpful information, can be better with better editing and camera work, also possible improvements in lubricity testing but this will happen naturally with time Keep up this good content testing different products for cars (but not necessarily)

[@shiddy.]

what improvements has everyone noticed from flushing? I'm going to do a moly flush soon ... just wondering

[@OwenLucas]

You won’t notice anything unless your engine is sludges up really bad. It’s preventative maintenance so that you do not have any sludging in the future.

[@PetrolHeadBrasil]

Nothing like having enough money to do 3 oil changes for a KZbin video...one day I'll make it!

[@OwenLucas]

I haven’t made it yet! I actually got those oil jugs at Amazon on clearance for about $5 each lol.

[@PetrolHeadBrasil]

@@OwenLucas WOW!!!! 5 bucks?! That was cheap indeed....

[@averagequan8975]

That’s a lot of work and time to make that video. Thank you.

[@SuperDarthLink]

Well you could have drove 125 miles before adding the sludge remover, then oil change + sludge remover for comparison.

[@jamesdoerr4318]

That was one damn good test. Congrats.

[@SaurierDNA]

One thing: I would advice using a funnel to put the oil in the engine. You must have spilled quite some oil on the engine and ultimately on the floor/ground with missing the oil intake when pouring.

[@OwenLucas]

Spilled a little and had a yellow towel to catch any just in case. No oil on the engine, I hate that smell!

[@wallerwolf6930]

Great test, which is obviously very meaningful. The stuff works!

[@_jurist]

Dude, get a funnel

[@OwenLucas]

😂

[@joelnrs]

Living life on the edge without a funnel 😂

[@adjes2010]

😂😂😂😂

[@ChrisPatrick-q6k]

This was very interesting. The only mistake was the use of Sogefi Group filteration products, (Fram) don't, they're of poor quality IMO.