Liquifire’s Comet 102-C Primary Clutch Complete Rebuild

[@shooter1817]

Brilliant tutorial!! one of the best snowmobile youtubers out there if you want to learn anything on sleds.NO music,no acronyms and concise instruction.Thanks a million Will for your post and work you do!Keep them coming.

[@ChrisMcLean-e8i]

Finally someone does it right! Its so nice that you show both taking it apart and the reassembly, most videos never show the details of putting it back together. Great work!

[@DarrellD.]

Nice job Will! Now all you need is snow.

[@KevinMn1]

Nice step by step, great video

[@400brian]

Good job. I know collectors who will not mess with clutches, they just swap them or buy new ones. I have been messing with them for 20 years or so. The 100-C that was used across the line in '74 are pretty much good for 1000-1500 miles, then you toss them. The 101-C that was used in '75 was very much re-buildable, but you would have to find NOS parts to do it. As you stated, parts are still available for the 102-C, but some of the arms are not available. For example; the "F" arms used on the mid-mounts. It is often a judgement call whether a clutch is worth re-building or not, as the cost of the parts can quickly approach the cost of a new one. Often you will have to heat the cover bolts to remove them, as they were Loktited in when new. Twist one off in the tower and you have a problem. I have also had spiders I could not remove, and I know guys who have broken vises in the process. The spider requires heat to melt the Loktite. Torqueing the spider to 250 ft/lbs is problematic as most guys do not own a wrench that goes that high, and you are likely to break something. I get them as tight as I can with a standard 1/2" breaker bar and call it good. The Deere manuals I have just say to tighten it securely. Most of these old sleds will never get enough run time to wear the clutch out again anyway, you should be good now!

[@ShawnArmstrong-l3c]

Ive always wondered about the facing the sheaves on a lathe and balancing the clutch. Some folks mark parts so they are clocked the same after reassembly. I have several pieces and parts. Can i mix and match parts or am i going to be out of balance and do some serious crank damage??? Thanks. Awsome video. Straight to the point.

[@2twostrokes]

Good stuff

[@shooter1817]

Cant wait to see what your plans are on the Phazer Will.Carb?suspension,clutch options?

[@twocylinderwill]

The Phazer is staying bone stock, it’s a survivor. That was one of the first sleds I got and went through, well before I was making any KZbin videos.

[@shooter1817]

Dont blame you.I did the same with my 95 phazer 2.Great machines.@@twocylinderwill

[@the4thj]

What if a person had machine tools i.e, lathe and mill? Could it all be machined?

[@twocylinderwill]

I suppose it could be if you wanted to, but it probably wouldn’t be worth the time to weld it all back up and turn it down to spec. With parts readily available for these clutches, it’s not really practical

[@haydenanderson9816]

What belt do you run in that sled?

[@twocylinderwill]

Dayco HP1078 or the ultimax equivalent