🔴 LIVE Sport Climbing: Men's Boulder & Lead Finals! |

[@jc_walk]

Thanks to Olympic channel for posting all this free content; it's been great to watch. Also, thanks so much to Hannah for providing a strong and healthy co-commentary with Matt. It was extremely refreshing to see a co-commentator who could continue to provide strong talking points and offer perspectives on a range of matters that kept the competition very engaging. I hope the IFSC will continue to bring her in.

[@charina_custodio]

I agree Hannah gives very refreshing co-commentary with Matt! Love her!

[@Tomatoffel]

Did he shout at the hold?

[@constanceelaine3909]

Yes and her manner is excellent - very proessional

[@xulermc]

I need alex honnold back tho

[@Jesusfsmums]

Starts at 30:54

[@raphael5472]

W

[@rubberdingyrapids850]

You're doing god's work, son

[@adolfilyichmarx9589]

Thank you ❤

[@rafaelmura]

All Boulder Tops 1:29:42 - M4/Adam Ondra 1:43:15 - M4/Sam Avezou 1:51:47 - M4/Hannes Van Duysen 1:54:38 - M4/Lee Dohyun

[@martintometich6277]

Both the boulders and the lead route were waaay overcooked considering the conditions

[@MrGmaloq]

I would argue that it was necessary in order to have a clear separation between athletes, remember that the goal of this competition is the qualification for the olympics, and with situations like the french team had, an overly easy round would have been really messy

[@hasancanyldrm629]

@@MrGmaloq There is a big gap between overly easy and overly hard. Only one route was topped in OQS, and no athlete was able to top the lead route. This is not normal. You do not want a separation like that.

[@Konayo_]

@@hasancanyldrm629 agreed - and that's why route setting on this level is so hard

[@darkaquatus]

The conditions did not matter that much, I think. The route setters just screwed up big time.

[@overgrownkudzu]

@@hasancanyldrm629 yeah, separation should mean the top boulderers having multiple tops and the top lead climbers should top/get close to topping. not barely anyone making it up.

[@nedstrange8078]

The routesetters in all fairness to them did an incredible job on the women's boulders, here not so much.

[@notapplicable7292]

The level of the boulders wasn't fundamentally bad, the athletes just simply need more rest. This may climbs in just 4 days is unreasonable.

[@goloher]

Agree. Just a single rest day would make a difference! At the Olympics the rounds will be separated though, which is a relief. (Semis boulder and lead on diff days and one day apart, and a rest day before the finals.)

[@CookieCreamCrumble]

yeah they really should change the way these events are set up, its not safe for the athlete's health, you can really risk injury when you're not rested

[@jletroui]

But route setters were aware of that schedule and adjust difficulty accordingly, no?

[@a-j.2002]

4th day of competition. You can't put those boulders up. Crazy hard and no skin.

[@tommeyer3871]

Maybe Boulder one & two would have been toppable if the temperature was like 5° lower. And Doyhun Lee almost did the slab - so they were doable under different circumstances. With this format it's more important that the route and boulders are somewhat in line with each other in order not to favor lead or boulder specialist and they did a pretty decent job at that. Maybe they would have been perfect if the conditions were a bit better.

[@constanceelaine3909]

These are some of the best boulderers in the world. Absolute top level. What a shame the boulders were this hard. Wonder what the setters were thinking...

[@joaosoares7446]

I think the lack of rest was the problem. 4 competition days is insane

[@Psytripification]

@@joaosoares7446 that's why you are supposed to think about it when you set the finals boulders wich they didn't.

[@kelee0759]

@@Psytripification id personally rather watch a comp with such hard boulders. instead of one where everyones topping the boulder

[@overgrownkudzu]

@@kelee0759 there's a spectrum between everyone topping and nobody

[@chrisgemmell102]

Let's see the routesetters climb them

[@tictachikes6156]

Skip to 2:36:00 for lead climbing

[@mjcpiano6936]

That QR code is distracting and blocking. I can manage a google search

[@burningelement1656]

I feel like they shouldn't have blocked that crimp on M2 after the second zone and it would've been an interesting bouldering round

[@bagtea]

gotta respect the upper body strength of these guys 🙌🏼

[@ABDILLASOUR]

Ty for posting on KZbin Olympics Channel!!

[@ricletic4769]

crazy hard bouldering round

[@aarongittelman2508]

Brutal!

[@karolina8536]

Low scoring rounds are sooo frustrating to watch yet sadly they become a pattern in men's comps lately. Imagine having this massive preparation only to go out on mat to overcooked overzelaous boulders for a 4 minute struggle no one enjoys. Routesetter please let them athletes show what they are capable of!!!

[@ozziehf]

disagree. if the round was too soft then the french athlete situation would have been dicey. Also the most important part is that boulder and lead are consistent in terms of points and they were this round.

[@adrienlagasse8100]

Hard boulders push the sport further

[@karolina8536]

@@adrienlagasse8100 Hard, yes, not ridiculously overcooked.

[@chrisgemmell102]

Ridiculous boulders

[@darkaquatus]

I surely hope we'll get better route setters for the Olympics, lol. For some reason the routes made for the women's finals tend to be way better than those for the men's finals. Not sure why. But thinking back at the previous Olympics, this seemed to be the case there as well. Kind of an embarrassing day, this was.

[@le_jiggy_garcon]

42:24 lmao the scream😂😂😂

[@jc_walk]

Poor guy just didn't have the round he wanted. 😔 Heart goes out to him.

[@53D0N4]

OQS Men's Boulder & Lead Finals Brutapest 2024

[@charina_custodio]

Wohoo Megos made it!

[@NoorMuhammad-no8vd]

amazing sports show!

[@gatosospechosop3]

Never let the routesetters cook again, 4 tops across ALL climbers and boulders and all on the same boulder, just awful.

[@elsiefisher5932]

What?

[@jc_walk]

The boulders still created separation despite not being topped. I would MUCH rather see few boulders topped than too many, where podium places come down to marginal score differences like number of attempts. Been there, seen that - and nobody likes it. Not to mention, these are world-class athletes at a world-class event. Dumbing down the competition for the sake of viewership is a backhand to the athletes and the overall progression of the sport. Could they have been better? Yes, probably. But they could have been worse.

[@gatosospechosop3]

@@jc_walkThis argument is being beaten to death here. 4 tops out of a potential 32. 20 tops? Awesome. 14 tops? Fine, still a hard round. 7-10 tops? Brutal round, but acceptable. 4 tops (and all on the same boulder which minimizes separation) is just failure by the routesetters, in the same way as if there were 30 tops. I get that the job is hard, but this was just classic overcooking, plain and simple.

[@i-m_andre]

@@jc_walk without "probably". 4/32 is too much....and so many haven't even touch the top. It was a disaster, really boring and I don't remember something worst in the last 10 years.

[@akinaridate9233]

People like you is the kind of people who blame other when u fail doing something,,, climbing is always evolving u like it or not, this time the setter just put the bar 1 step higher, and this need to be done to be able pushing max limit what human can do on climbing..

[@BasketballHavens]

How much strength do you want? Boulderers: Yes

[@tzcjornefx]

Thanks for posting it on KZbin and not on the Olympic channel. The official Olympic channel website is absolutely awful. Everything connected to the livestream, login and casting is not working at all.

[@androgynousmaggot9389]

Those were slightly too hard boulders considering the weather, but I guess this (meh) scoring is to be expected because it separates the athletes! I'm not a big fan of this concept anyway, but it's working since two disciplines decide the medals! Let's hope that in 4 years, they will separate them completely. Sadly, it will be too late for many, especially Adam, Jacob, or Tomoa!

[@DiegoDomínguez-v9l]

more full live olympic games😃

[@Jan_Be]

Such a shame the boulders were overcooked, especially when taking into account the athletes are tired from a combined event and the hot conditions 😢

[@ei1864]

Meeegoooos 🧡

[@Tdogg21]

1:23:03 shouldn’t be a time out once you off the ground

[@benjaminrheault4998]

That rule was changed a while ago. You need to top before time is out

[@epocalypsefilms]

I feel like the route setters on Olympic branded events have really been struggling on men’s boulders in particular from day one. Coming here after the actual games and it’s just a fact.

[@Cmcmillen77]

Do the setters climb this themselves to make sure it’s doable?

[@IT-fr4wb]

fair question : )

[@sherkhan9263]

Great Game 😊😊

[@revistanoseoutrosolhos]

Nice competition! 🤩🤩👏👏

[@joecawthan4112]

2:59:41 mejdi is still sitting in third

[@aalever]

It speaks volumes about climbing culture that they're all sharing strategies and trying to solve the problems as a team during spec, regardless of country or competition.

[@DnwDke]

59:00

[@jamesaaronmanarang]

Love it!!!!

[@lacattano]

Can we stop with the giant QR codes? Really annoying

[@MedaiMike]

Who's leading at the moment?

[@benoitbergeron8858]

Topping the last boulder really seemed to feel cathartic

[@FullSpectrumClimbing]

Lets Go!!

[@tednorberto3086]

Ugh...I can't even climb the stairs at home.😂😂

[@thechamalowdestroyer2309]

1:43:53 🫡🫡🫡🫡 what a badass

[@AGALIANO16]

Solid v1-v2s

[@greghelm843]

There should be Sam Avezou song to the agadoo tune. You know Aaavezou zou zou and so on

[@newhoryzon]

The making of the cameras is absolutely disastrous. What a shame in an event of this magnitude...

[@Orthecj]

Why are the scores a little less than 5 or 10? Are there deductions or how does this scoring work?

[@joshmcknight1771]

It’s minus .1 depending on how many tries it took to get to the zone or top.

[@NicholasMa42]

also holds are worth between 1 and 4 depending on how high on the wall they are, it's not in general going to be multiples of 5. There are 10 scoring holds worth 1, then 10 worth 2, etc, for a total of 100.

[@gregchan7976]

@@NicholasMa42that’s not true, not all holds have a points. There are two zones and the top which are taped with points indicated

[@koenjoosten6625]

@@gregchan7976 He is correct regarding the scoring for Lead. You are correct regarding the scoring for Boulder

[@53D0N4]

For bouldering: in order for a climber to gain points they must reach the specified zone (if you look closely on the markings of the holds, you can see the numbers 5, 10, and 25 marking the zones where the points can be achieved). A perfect score (5, 10, or 25) is only possible on first or "flash" attempts. Any attempt after is minus 0.1 from the total score. The one exception to this rule is if an athlete reaches a zone (say zone 5 for example) on their first attempt, they will keep that score if they are unsuccessful in attaining zone 10. The attempts will only be deducted in attempts for *zones*. If the zone was flashed the athlete will be awarded full points for that zone. For lead it is different. Lead scoring starts after a certain point in the lead route (usually it is marked). There are different sections in the route and as the route progresses, the points per hold per section increase. That is why an athlete's score will dramatically increase as they grab one or two holds in the later sections. These sections are also usually specified with different colors per section. Both categories (boulder and lead) are then added together for the rankings. This competition also has the added element of combining Shanghai scores, which used the same scoring systems.

[@marias9084]

that was awsome guys, hehe

[@uncleiso]

I don't really care much for the lead portion, but I'm pissed at this boulder section. All of these climbers are way better than this result. This was just poor route setting, which made for a disappointing comp to watch. Of course we want to see challenging movements, but we want to see tops! We want to see the climbers succeed! I would have much rather watched the men compete on the same set as the women than this. I'm convinced they sandbagged it because they were male competitors.

[@peterhammer4644]

I care way more for the lead section, and that route was way too hard, too. Boulders were fairly interesting / too hard but yeah it is bouldering.

[@EdwardHernandez-x7u]

Clyde Inlet

[@Alice-wh9me]

Cadê o Jin?

[@etownump]

It's so disappointing not seeing routes completed. And so I am navigating away from this vid cuz it's a waste of time. Leaving now, at the 1:05:45 mark.

[@Samuel-vo4rr]

disappointing how bouldering is presented so boring to such a big audience ...

[@androgynousmaggot9389]

I think it's hard to set boulders with 2 zones and the top worth 25 points. But yeah, definitely too hard, especially considering the weather

[@PetsTVvlog]

Saan po makapanood ng tennis games po?

[@caznandy2000]

Have setters ever been accused of favouring an athlete or trying to influence the competition with their setting?

[@emmikhei]

No. The team that sets comps like this consist of setters from multiple countries. Sometimes the setting might benefit taller athletes for example, but I have never heard actual accusations of setters favouring individual athletes.

[@androgynousmaggot9389]

Luckily, the setters are from IFCS and not the Olympic Committee, so fair play still matters! "Climbers battle against wall, not against each other"! Let's hope this mindset survives the Olympics 😅

[@benjieweisberg1617]

Ain't no way they gave him a Z Flip for the podium selfie💀

[@HelenAllen-x3t]

Hagenes Ford

[@spaghettihoops3964]

2:59:43 lmao

[@faithschmidt694]

⚽🥇🥈🥉⚽

[@OthaLionel]

allez

[@Strawberrykarina]

why is Lee Dohyun kinda...

[@TiamatSorakaSolotop]

The state of the live chat was abysmal. Lots of yappers who can't even hope of doing the first move of any of these boulders. Get real, have some respect for the athletes.

[@peterhammer4644]

99,99 of climbers can't do any of the first moves.

[@armedjoy3045]

Can't totally blame them. They only see them all failing and don't know anything about what route is easy or too difficult. Route setters failed

[@Bizagro]

So not very enticing for people new to watching the sport. And as a newbie it’s easy to see the course planners need a new job.

[@billynorbu7603]

why aren't the japanese guys competing? looks like they already have olympics ticket but on what basis?

[@jeanr.1821]

Normally I like watching these competitions. But this is kind of boring. All athletes struggling at the same problems, waiting, brushing...

[@zhimincheng]

💪👍💯❤

[@watcher7793]

Setters!!!! You have made the first 2 so far too hard.... it's also nice to see athletes make it a bit further than just the start... like cmon

[@atne3484]

Why are they kinda...

[@sylvesterp-r5493]

pretty annoying the climbers climb at the same time this year

[@JonasPersi]

Never put the place of the event into a title, it will not totally confuse everyone who is searching for climbing events.

[@blu3qc]

awful boulder setting !

[@johns4905]

Route setters, find a new job. Pitiful.

[@miskamysa4323]

Awful job from the route setters here, not only frustrating for the climbers but also for the audience. Thumbs down.

[@billyelliot78]

Am I the only one annoyed by the over talking in the commentary booth? I’m not gonna say who but I’ll just say that I didn’t always feel this way…

[@MartinaSchoppe]

Nope. They where talking way to much! At one point I turned the sound off. Which was anoying, because they were also not able to SHOW results on screen... I hope they fix this for Paris - all future comps, really. And split screens, PLEAAAAAAAAAAAASE!!

[@10freekie2]

I don’t think it was that different from other finals.

[@austing768]

The commentary is terrible.

[@MegaPol1000]

Bring back @alexhonnold as a commentator

[@JoelleDhlakama-ls8jg]

[@zhimincheng]

❤💯👍💪